Is Weighty Makeup Automatically the Most Luxurious?

Posted on November 10, 2025 by ghekate

*The D&G Blush, ABH Highlighter, VBB Lid Lustre, and PML Quad are not pictured here, but they will be discussed in this post.*

After the bombshell that was dropped regarding the Louis Vuitton Beauty line and their prices, I started to think about which items in my collection were the most expensive, which ones I thought had the prettiest packaging, if the prettiest was actually the most luxurious looking, and which ones had the most weight. I was surprised to discover that so few items fit into all of these categories.

I was happy to see the people I follow enjoying their La Beauté Louis Vuitton products, but some felt they needed to justify their reasons for making the purchase beyond just stating, “I wanted it, so I got it.” Across the board, customers who thought the items were or were not worth buying seemed to at least come to the consensus that the price (besides paying for the brand recognition), was largely due to the packaging. The lipstick components were said to be fully metal, along with the bespoke metal packaging of the eyeshadow quads. “You could hurt someone if you hit them with this,” was stated more than a few times by various people.

How a product looks and its weight are my top two criteria for feeling like the item I own is luxurious. Looks are subjective, but weight can be measured and precise. I started to think about the heaviest packaging in my collection (proportionate to its size dimensions) in order to answer the question…are these automatically the most lux?

Lisa Eldridge Rouge Experience Refillable Lipstick (68 grams)

In order to highlight how great this packaging is, I need to do a deep dive into comparing it to another brand. Please, bear with me on this, especially if you’re a fan of LV. I don’t judge anyone on how they spend their money, and this is just me working out why I am perfectly satisfied with Lisa’s lipstick being the height of luxury for me.

Lisa Eldridge took great pride explaining in her launch video how her refills were mono material, made of 100% aluminum and could therefore be recycled without degrading once repurposed, unlike the vast majority of other brands’ refills that have mixed metal with plastic.

According to Google: “You cannot usually recycle a lipstick refill that has both plastic and metal components together, as most curbside recycling facilities cannot separate the mixed materials and are not equipped to handle small, complex items.”

There is plastic inside the forever case by Lisa Eldridge, as this has a click closure, but she wanted the actual refills to be sustainable.

I cannot compare the LV lipsticks from personal experience, but it is my understanding that the refills are all metal as well and come with plastic caps that can be removed when recycling. The lipstick cases have an aluminum shell and brass detailing, but the magnetic closure that is so satisfying to use (and adds to the weightiness of a product) keeps it from being recyclable as well.

Summarized from Okon Recycling: Recycling magnets is technically possible, but challenging as it involves disassembling the magnet and removing any non-magnetic materials. However, there are some magnets that cannot be recycled.

So, it sounds as if both LV and Lisa Eldridge have cases that aren’t realistic to recycle but have refills that are fully recyclable. The LV lipstick case has a lot of expensive details like the product names and logo being etched in, the monogram flower-shaped refill bottom, etc. Lisa Eldridge has her logo etched at the top of the cap, allows the customer to personalize the base of the case with their initials etched in (up to three letters), and the case shape had to be custom made as well. Perhaps some prefer the sleeker LV design while others appreciate the vintage inspiration of Lisa’s more.

LV’s Lipstick Case + Refill is $160 and the refill alone is $69.
Lisa Eldridge’s Lipstick Case + Refill is $63 (engraving price included) and the refill alone is $30.

Sure, LV’s refill costs the same amount as other high end and luxury lipsticks in their completed form, but considering the details I listed above, is the LV case really $100 better that other brands’ cases, particularly Lisa Eldridge?

It can’t come down to the actual lipstick formula, because that’s part of LV’s $69 refill price.

At the time that I bought the Lisa Eldridge lipstick, I felt it was incredibly expensive. It is still the most expensive lipstick in my collection, based on what I paid and not the retail price. I rationalized my purchase because of the sustainability aspect, all the custom elements, the personalized touch, and how heavy it felt.

Taking branding completely out of the equation and thinking about the components alone, I do feel like this product by Lisa Eldridge is among the most luxurious out there, and I am no longer gritting my teeth at the price.

It would be nice if I liked the lipstick formula more, but there is some hope for me! I wrote a comment on Instagram that the brand responded to, and while the Velvet formula won’t be put in the refillable form, there might still be the possibility of the Lucents that I enjoy so much!

There are other things they’ve been “working on” that has taken years, such as making the empty eyeshadow palettes available for purchase alongside the eyeshadow singles, the return of the liquid blush in better packaging, etc. So, I’m prepared for this to take a while to happen.

If I can get the Luxuriously Lucent Lip Colours and/or Baume Embraces as refills, I will definitely get more use out of mine!

Olivia Palermo Beauty Eyeshadow Palette (226 grams) and Lipstick (79 grams)

Whenever I think about heavy makeup packaging, the Olivia Palermo Eyeshadow Palette immediately comes to mind. I’ve had it for years, yet I’m still not sure how I feel about the pattern, and I’m not sure what it’s technically called (perhaps wicker, woven link, basket weave, oyster strap, etc.). It just makes me think of the types of patterns I’ve seen for watch straps, which isn’t too terribly off track. Apparently Olivia drew inspiration for the packaging, “by a vintage Art Deco bracelet she was given for her 21st birthday.”

The eyeshadow palette has a magnetic closure and mirror, which further increases the weight, on top of the fact that the packaging is metal.

Although I’m not sure if they could have created a different pattern that I would like more, I can say it’s at least cool, unique, and easily recognizable. Plain flat gold is always beautiful to me, but this packaging looks different from any other I’ve seen. Well, almost. As of a year ago, Hatice Schmidt released a refillable lipstick range called, “The Gift,” with a case inspired by jewelry and the pattern reminds me of a curb chain/Cuban link style. So, there are at least two jewelry inspired components from brands that I know of.

I bought the Olivia Palermo lipstick at the reduced price of €32 (originally €40) from Niche-Beauty, and the eyeshadow palette for $28 (originally $58). I’ve discussed how I procured the eyeshadow palette in a past review, but it was during the time that I started working on this post that I felt the compulsion to finally get the lipstick. I have checked in on the brand on and off over the years, waiting for them to release additional products. Earlier this year, I saw a notice on the official website that the beauty products would no longer be sold and that they were turning the website into an influencer style page (oliviapalermo.com now redirects to her affiliate shopmy page). I assumed that meant the brand was shutting down, especially since I’ve only heard two beauty reviewers reference the brand one time each within the last three years. However, I was shocked to see the products appear on the Douglas website in either August or September, and then I saw them at Niche-Beauty as well. I don’t know if Olivia has better sales in Europe, or Germany specifically. I’m not even sure if she still has products available elsewhere in the US.

I felt Lisa Eldridge’s lipstick deserved to be in the post, but Olivia Palermo’s lipstick is the only one in my collection that is heavier. OPB’s lipstick is less expensive, but it isn’t refillable and the central part of the lipstick component is made of plastic. The outer packaging is what makes this seem so fancy.

Regarding the eyeshadow palette, it definitely screams luxury. It isn’t something you want to carry around in your purse or travel with it. Olivia wanted the old Hollywood glamour look and feel to her products, so this is something that you would want to keep on a vanity.

This is by far my most luxurious palette, and though it doesn’t have some of the additional premium features of the LV Quads, it makes me feel a lot more content about my collection and avoid FOMO. If I want heavy eyeshadow packaging, I certainly have it with this product!

Westman Atelier Beauty Butter Powder Bronzer (112 grams)

This is my golden pebble! It is tiny in size but mighty in weight!

Chantecaille is another brand with nicknamed “pebble” packaging, but theirs is plastic, thin, and it doesn’t feel substantial, even though they cost the same amount!

I bought my WA bronzer at 20% off, so the title of most expensive bronzer in my collection belongs to Hermes, even though I only bought the refill. Had I paid for the compact too, that wouldn’t have helped it to feel more luxurious than the Westman Atelier bronzer, considering Hermes’ thin plastic packaging.

This has a tiny mirror that I don’t use, and a magnetic closure. The brand has highlighters and face powders in this same style of packaging. I haven’t used their cream sticks or drops, but they don’t look as luxurious to me. The only other Westman Atelier packaging I have handled are the powder duos, which are certainly substantial and pretty to look at, but I don’t think it compares to this gold compact.

When it comes to the prettiest bronzer packaging, I think of Gucci’s and Charlotte Tilbury’s powder one, even though they are much lighter in terms of their size. However, I would never call something that’s a solid gold color ugly. So, it may as well be my most glamorous bronzer.

Fara Homidi Essential Bronzer Refillable Compact (106 grams)

This compact is about the same size and weight as the Westman Atelier Butter Bronzer. The amount of product from FH is 3.5 grams and the amount of product from WA is 8 grams. That is close enough to accounting for the 6 gram difference when I weighed the two products, which is why I’m still including it in this post.

Aesthetically, I find the Westman Atelier bronzer to be more appealing. Shiny things get me. However, I still think Fara’s is classy and pleasing to hold in the hand. Her other products come in red and blue packaging of the same weight. I don’t like the red, but the blue is very eye-catching. If the next product she releases is in purple or green packaging, it just might surpass WA’s as a favorite compact for bronzers.

D&G Cheeks&Eyes Match Blush (91 grams)

I have plenty of blush packaging that is bigger than this, and therefore heavier. However, for this small size, this is very heavy! Nothing really comes close to the weight, but I have to say that Gucci’s powder blush packaging is quite nice too, even if it’s lighter. Visually, I like Gucci’s more as well. In fact, I have a lot of blushes that aren’t luxurious feeling, but I love them anyway (such as YSL’s Make Me Blush Bold Blurring Blushes and Too Faced Cloud Crush Blushes).
So, this is one of the few categories where my heaviest blush might be the most luxurious, but it isn’t necessarily my favorite packaging. I do like it a lot though!

I have to add that this packaging feels like a mixture of plastic and metal components. I believe there’s something in the base of this compact adding weight artificially, especially since it doesn’t even have a magnetic closure. It has a push button instead.

Victoria Beckham Beauty Products:
Matte Bronzing Brick (166 grams), Eye Wardrobe (116 grams), Cheeky Posh (37 grams), and Lid Lustre (41 grams)

Similar to Olivia Palermo Beauty, VBB has a certain aesthetic that they maintain across most of their products. I like the horn brown/tortoise pattern, and it can be fashionable, but I don’t automatically associate it with luxury because of how many cheap products I’ve seen made in tortoiseshell style. The gold colored trim helps to elevate the look of the packaging, but it is the weight and feel of these components that make them undoubtedly luxurious.

The Bronzing Duo and Eyeshadow Quad are among my heaviest based on size. The Cheeky Posh blush is small and doesn’t have that much extra weight, but I figure that’s because the component isn’t refillable like the other two. I’m including it because it has the same style of packaging as the others, and I still feel bougie when I handle it.

I rarely buy single eyeshadows, so I don’t have much to compare in terms of weight. The prettiest I own is probably the Charlotte Tilbury Hypnotizing Pop Shots, but those have lightweight plastic packaging and they are powders, which I don’t believe is fair to compare. It would be interesting to see how the glass packaging of Charlotte’s Eyes to Mesmerise stacks up, but I don’t own that.
I no longer have the glass packaging of Maybelline’s 24 HR Color Tattoo, but the best I’ve got is Melt’s Gel Liner (47 grams) and a MAC Paint Pot (56 grams).
I like glass as a component material, but it’s not uncommon to find for eye products. The Lid Lustre packaging has an elevated look compared to MAC’s, for example. The Melt Cosmetics Gel Liner that has the gold lid and butterfly print around the rim with the glass base is prettier to me, while also being slightly heavier. However, the font for the brand logo makes it look less sophisticated. I don’t think eye related categories of makeup follow the trend of weight indicating how luxurious a product will look and feel.

One thing about VBB packaging that does take away from the experience is the issue with the closing mechanism. I heard this was a problem in the past, and I never had an issue with my Bronzing Brick, but my eyeshadow quad doesn’t always stay shut when I snap it closed. Sometimes it’s fine, but other times it likes to pop back open with the slightest touch. I haven’t heard about anyone else having an issue with the quads, so perhaps I’m unlucky in getting one of the few faulty ones.

Pat Mcgrath Mothership Palettes (392 grams) and Eyeshadow Quads (122 grams)

All the previous components I’ve discussed had metal or a mix of metal and plastic packaging. The Mothership Palettes are fully plastic, but they are quite hefty in weight. The palettes are big for only holding ten eyeshadows, but that black shiny lacquer with the gold bottom still look lux to me. My Victoria Beckham and Olivia Palermo palettes are the only ones I can recall from my collection that aren’t made of plastic or cardboard. In fact, the Victoria Beckham Eye Wardrobe quad is only six grams less than a Pat Mcgrath quad, but Victoria’s compact is almost half the size!
I still chose these PML products as the next heaviest in the luxury category, though I have to admit that I have some lightweight quads that look fancier because they are gold colored. For example, Tom Ford (the trim technically), Guerlain, YSL (trim), Prada (mixed gold and silver), Lisa Eldridge, etc.
I find it difficult to equate weight with luxury in the eyeshadow category because of how many bulky heavy palettes brands have released over the years. So many of Jeffrey Star’s earliest palettes, Plouise, and Glamlite’s Food palettes were huge. I also recall when Stila had the Luxe Eye Shadow Palette in Happy Hour, which was a similar weight and size to the Mothership Palettes, but I bought it for $36. I can’t remember what the full retail price was, but it cost nowhere near the same amount as a Mothership.

So, I’ve come to the conclusion that weight doesn’t automatically equate with luxury in this category either. However, because of how uncommon it is to find hefty quads and palettes that are reasonably sized (Olivia Palermo, Victoria Beckham, and Pat Mcgrath), the ones that are weighty feel extra special to me.

Beekman 1802 Milk Tint SPF 43 Tinted Primer Serum

I didn’t want to include skincare, but this technically falls under the makeup umbrella. If I count it as a primer, it might be the heaviest I ever owned (even heavier than the glass bottle of Rituel de Fille Thorn Oil). Beekman’s looks like ceramic, but it’s colored glass.

I have to say “might be the heaviest,” because I don’t recall how it compares to the Guerlain L’Or Radiance Primer (now called the Guerlain Parure Gold 24K Radiance Primer), which is definitely the most luxurious looking primer I ever bought. The look of the Beekman product doesn’t appeal to me at all, but I was so impressed by how it felt in the hands. I had to leave it behind though because it was so heavy that I didn’t want to bring it back in my luggage.

If this counts as a skin tint, then it’s a lot less special. Plenty of brands make glass bottle complexion products. That’s why I didn’t include any true foundations or concealers in this post, because the prettiest bottles in my collection tend to look and weigh around the same.

When it comes to heavy primer packaging being the most luxurious, I have to say the Guerlain primer squashes that theory.

Anastasia Beverly Hills Smooth Blur Bronzer (112 grams) and Glow Seeker Highlighter (125 grams)

This bronzer is larger than the one from Westman Atelier, but it weighs the same. The reason I decided to include it anyway is because it’s still substantially heavier than the remaining bronzers in my collection. Plus, the highlighter component is a similar size and even weightier.
I cannot think of a single highlighter I own that comes in heavy packaging, other than this one.

I have noticed over the years that ABH has gradually been upgrading the packaging of most of their products. Their two most recent mascaras felt like either super heavy plastic or a mix of metal and plastic. The Smooth Blur Cream Contour Stick has a brushed gold colored metal cap and additional gold details. The Smooth Blur Matte Bronzer and Glow Seeker Highlighter have a magnetic closure and they feel quite substantial in the hand. I’m impressed with the packaging and find it to be quite pretty, but this is still another example of how weight doesn’t necessarily equate with a luxurious look. This packaging feels so much more substantial to hold and interact with than pretty much all others in the drugstore, mid-range, and high end categories. It feels like it should cost more than it does, and it looks appropriately high end to me, but not quite broaching luxury territory. I still think the Gucci Bronzer packaging tops it, despite it being lighter in weight, because it looks classier overall. As another example, MAC’s Sunstruck Bronzers look so beautiful, even though they are in lightweight compacts as well.

Final Thoughts

Based on my own personal collection, I’ve confirmed that in certain makeup categories, the most luxurious packaging is the heaviest. At the same time, I have many other products with a timeless and elegant look to them that are lightweight and made of plastic or other inexpensive materials. Essentially, the weight of a product enhances the luxury experience, but it does very little to elevate plain looking packaging. The best example of this is the Beekman 1802 Tint.

If I can get an Olivia Palermo palette that retails for $58 and feels ultra lux, but I can also buy a limited edition plastic Chanel quad for $86 and still feel like that’s luxurious as well, would that be considered silly? Should I be raising my expectations for all luxury brands?
At the beginning of this experiment, I would have said yes. However, I now see that if Chanel, Dior, Gucci, and other designer brands used higher quality materials, their products would likely fall in the LV Beaute range of prices (if not more). Some examples of that are the Chanel 31 Le Rouge lipsticks in the glass case, Dior Rouge Premier Lipsticks with the ceramic case and “formula infused with 24k gold,” along with the Guerlain Rouge G Exceptional Piece lines. There is only so much a person is willing to pay for a product from a luxury brand if the materials are the same as a mid-tier brand. So, that keeps designer brands from going overboard with their prices. There are also advantages to using lightweight materials, such as them being more convenient to take on-the-go for customers or makeup artists with large kits, sitting at attainable prices for aspirational shoppers, thinner packaging contributing to less waste of materials and sustainability efforts, etc.

So, when I really think about it, I wouldn’t be able to buy as many products in the luxury category if the components were more expensive to make or if they were made from higher quality materials. In fact, the majority of the products in this post were purchased with some kind of discount. Of course, I would love to have all my luxury goods in weighty packaging, but if that means I would have to accept those products being less likely to go on sale and/or accepting that the prices of them would double or triple, I am unwilling to do so.

The Dior Powder-no-Powder is one of my favorite makeup products of all time, yet the most I was willing to spend was €45 (essentially just paying full price) to get my name etched onto the compact. If I had the opportunity to buy it in a gold colored compact with a magnetic closure or some stunning limited edition pattern for €100, I don’t think I’d be willing to do that. This tells me that despite a product having a holy grail formula that is unable to be duped, I still have my limits. Some makeup will just never be worth it to me to buy, past a certain pricepoint, no matter what it’s made of. That means I cannot use the product’s weight, materials (including formula), or looks to justify a super high spend amount. However, I know that when a product gets hyped up, it can be much easier for me to consider crossing that price threshold if I can make a case for it being top tier from every other angle.
I bought one of the Chanel Boutons quads directly from Chanel because so many influencers were told by their SAs that the collection would be extremely limited, and I feared missing out. Less than one month after launch, I found the quads at multiple retailers for a minimum of 30% off.
FOMO works similarly to getting caught up in the hype of a product. I sometimes make purchasing decisions that I normally wouldn’t.

This is why I decided to make this post. I know there are others like me who enjoy luxury makeup and don’t have the biggest budget to work with. There are those who will be tempted by the exclusivity of a certain new beauty line and would normally not even consider getting anything at those prices, but the hype may be wearing down that resolve.
To those that want to be talked out of buying makeup at $100 or more…just remember that luxury makeup with fantastic formulas and high quality packaging can be found at a lower price. This post is full of examples of this. If one brand is out of your price range, you might be able to get similar products from another prestige brand. Other amazing and beautifully packaged products are just around the corner.

I hope this topic has been interesting, and even helpful.

Thanks for reading!

-Lili ❤

Anastasia Beverly Hills Embers Palette, Cream Contour, and Highlighter Review

Posted on November 3, 2025 by ghekate

I remember a time when everything this brand launched with had a ton of hype surrounding it. The pace of their new releases slowed in recent years, so much so that I didn’t even buy anything from them in 2024.

When I think about my ABH purchases in 2025, I’ve realized that nearly all of them were bought to replace something I missed out on. I didn’t get the brand’s first iteration of powder bronzers because I didn’t think the darkest shade (Mahogany) would work for me. I ended up buying their Smooth Blur Bronzer instead. In 2016, I wasn’t interested in the Anastasia Beverly Hills Master Palette by Mario, but later regretted not buying it. So, Embers seemed like the next best thing.
I also always wanted a dark skin friendly version of the Anastasia Beverly Hills Amrezy Highlighter, but they didn’t create additional colors. So, I hoped the newest shade of Glow Seeker Highlighter could fill that role.
I finally bought the Stick Blush four years after it launched, figuring ABH had no plans to expand the range further. I feel like the production of the Magic Touch Blush Trios are confirmation of that. Lastly, the only product I didn’t buy to fill a void of something I missed out on, is the Smooth Blur Contour Stick. I liked the cream bronzer so much, along with the powder bronzer from the “Smooth Blur” line, that I eventually caved and bought the contour in the hopes I’d like it too.

Let’s dive into the reviews and see if these products ended up being worth getting!

Embers Mini Eyeshadow Palette

I acknowledge that this is a soft color story, and that soft tones don’t pop as easily on dark skin. However, I expected these muted eyeshadows to still be pigmented, along the lines of the Nouveau Palette. Most of the swatches in the photo above needed to be built up in 3-5 swipes instead of my usual 1-2. I have five other ABH palettes and none of them require the amount of building up I’ve had to do to with Embers. I have to be so precise with my placement of the deepest shades in order to avoid the other eyeshadows blending into it and lightening it up too much in the process. I have to actually dampen my brush when using some of the satins in order to aid in packing on the color.

I was looking forward to having a subdued and earthy palette, but these shadows are more gently pigmented than I could have anticipated. After all, according to the brand, “Anastasia Beverly Hills Embers Mini Eyeshadow Palette was designed to spark artistry with depth, warmth, and intensity. Featuring 9 full pigment shades—including rich, blendable mattes and molten metallics that glow like firelight…”

I’m sorry, but to call any of these non-mattes a molten metallic is wild! Which of the shades in my swatches are rich or intense? Is the “full pigment” in the room with us?

Anyway, because it’s so easy to create toned down looks, I did my best to show the maximum color payoff I can get with this palette. The end result is at the subdued level I wanted, so my only issue is how much effort it took to create the three looks below.

Creating a bold look isn’t going to be a problem for someone within the fair to medium skin tone range, but those expecting high-shine metallics (instead of sooty satins and low impact shimmers) might still be disappointed.

To anyone who was hoping to achieve the kind of look that’s featured on the official website, I recommend managing your expectations. I couldn’t get that depth of color from the browns, so I checked the brand’s YouTube page to see what kind of techniques were used. I am fairly certain the “Terracotta Spice Fall Eyeshadow Look,” is the one used. How the makeup appears in the video looks washed out, but how the photo is depicted on the Anastasia Beverly Hills site looks manipulated to appear bolder. The truth might be somewhere in the middle!

Anastasia Beverly Hills Youtube Tutorial vs **Website Photo**

The mattes blend and layer decently, but I had a hard time creating depth with C3 and struggled to have B2 show up. I expected B2 to be like Metro from Nouveau, but it’s not. When I think about that palette compared to Embers, I start to feel like perhaps I should have just stuck with the former!

If the Master Palette never existed, I would have thought Embers was meant to be a companion palette and/or a softer version of Nouveau.

A1, A2, and B1 are the inner corner type of shades, which I’m satisfied with. C1, C2, and B3 are the visual standouts, but they have a sooty quality to them that I can easily see when I rub them into my skin. I’ve seen this kind of effect from multichromes, duochromes, and sparkly formulas to look even more intense. With the type of finish these have, I feel like these colors veer away from the muted category and closer to dull. I wish these had more of a wet metallic finish instead.

On the bright side, I don’t have issues with creasing or fading throughout the day. I get quite a bit of kickup in the pan, but I feel that’s pretty normal for ABH. The shadows are soft to the touch, but not creamy or buttery. The eyeshadows don’t feel like they were pressed hard into their individual pans, so it makes sense that it’s easy to pick up a lot onto my brushes.

The Nouveau Palette is more to my liking because of the formula. The Nars Climax Palette has a similar vibe to Embers, but the mattes are more pigmented and the shimmers have so much impact. Metaphorically, Climax and Embers aren’t sisters, but they could be cousins! Climax is also a light neutral palette with pops of green and blue!

Joking aside, I don’t feel as bad about making this purchase considering I didn’t pay full price for it. I’ve had far worse performing palettes in my collection: ones that stick in one place and are patchy, ones that don’t layer well on each other, some that don’t adhere to the lids, etc. So, I consider the quality to be at least “okay.” I don’t know how this formula compares to the other minis in the 9-pan format, but I don’t consider it to be as good as the brand’s larger palettes (excluding Fall Romance).

A final point I should mention is that I had the worst experience with these eyeshadows when I applied them on skin primed with the MAC Paint Pot. Using the Lisa Eldridge Liquid Silk Eyeshadow as a base gave better results. Perhaps the Embers Palette would look even better on top of ABH’s own primer, but I no longer have that one.

Smooth Blur Cream Contour Stick in Core Shadow

I’m the one in my friend group that everyone comes to for beauty product recommendations, but this cream contour was actually recommended to me instead! I held off on buying it because I felt unsure if Core Shadow would be the right shade for me, in addition to me being on a cream product low-buy.

It turns out this shade is great around my cheekbones and jaw, but I can see a touch of red when I apply it along my nose. The consistency of the cream also breaks down my concealers. In addition to the bridge of my nose, I usually also apply a little on both sides where I have discoloration. Putting product on these particular spots gives the illusion of pushing those spots back, which makes my nose look less flat. Unfortunately, this trick just doesn’t work with this shade of contour and this kind of cream formula.

When I tried to take a photo of the contour below my cheekbone, it looked too natural. So, I drew on more product and left it unblended so it would be easier to see the sculpting power of the Core Shadow shade on my skin tone.

When I use my go-to cream and liquid contour brush (by Patrick Ta), it’s too easy to go overboard. If I use a small amount of the cream contour and try to build it up, it doesn’t look as well blended in the end because some parts have dried at different times and other parts have a heavier look from the overlapping of layers. If I use a normal amount, it looks better blended, but it’s more intense than I want. So, I end up having to use leftover foundation from my brushes to try and tone it back down. It’s an extra step in my routine that I would rather not have to do.

This product isn’t as stiff as the Milk Makeup Sculpt Cream Contour Stick, but it’s stiffer than the one from Uoma Beauty that I used to use, and it’s a little drier than the Fenty Match Stix Contour Skinstick. I hoped this would be more like the Rare Beauty Warm Wishes Effortless Bronzer Stick that is so easy to blend and melts into the skin. Even the Anastasia Beverly Hills Cream Bronzer is easier to spread. While it’s typical for a stick version of something to be firmer and less emollient than a pot version, I didn’t expect this one to be more difficult to blend than the Anastasia Beverly Hills Stick Blush. Perhaps this is a tradeoff for longevity, because this contour at least lasts on my face all day.

I don’t have a lot of contours (compared to my collection of bronzers), so even though this isn’t perfect for me, I’ve continued using it beyond the testing phase. At the discounted price I paid, I don’t regret buying it. However, I still think there are better options out there, especially at a lower price. It gets the job done with extra effort, and the packaging is nice to look at, but I’m a little reluctant to recommend it.
Between the cream stick blush, cream bronzer, and now cream contour stick that I’ve used from ABH…the best product is definitely their Cream Bronzer.

Glow Seeker Highlighter in Enchanted

I can’t think of another highlighter that has received as much long term hype and praise as the ABH x Amrezy Highlighter from 2018. It was the standard by which all highlighters were compared for so many years. Even Champagne Pop from Becca x Jacyln Hill in 2016 didn’t manage to stay relevant for quite as long. Becca’s highlighter (technically now Smashbox x Becca) might have made more sales overall, but Amrezy’s continues to be referenced more in the makeup zeitgeist of the past decade.

When ABH released the “Iced Out” highlighter four years ago, so many influencers were claiming it was the same formula as Amrezy’s. I was suspicious when I found it online for 25% off in just the first few weeks of launch. Then, I understood. It is pretty, but dry, and the color is yellow gold with a slightly greenish tinge (thankfully the green didn’t show up on my cheeks). To me, it wasn’t similar enough to the Amrezy texture to feel like my wish was fulfilled. I was so annoyed by the intentional or unintentional trickery that I never ended up reviewing it on my blog.

Now, we have the Glow Seeker Highlighters that everyone has been saying is practically the Amrezy formula. I can’t help but feel slightly led astray again. This highlighter has a lot more of a shimmery mica sheen, and it doesn’t have as much of the wet-look shine that I associate with gelee formulas like the Amrezy one. The Glow Seeker formula seems to have less squalane and more glycerin. It’s at least less dry than the Iced Out highlighter, but I still wish there was more slip considering I have dry skin and prefer highlighters to look slick and smooth. I can admit that I’m extremely picky about highlighters, so other people will probably say the two products are similar enough to be dupes. This is most likely also the closest ABH will get to making the Amrezy highlighter without recreating the formula completely. Someone who likes high impact and shimmery (but not glittery) highlighters will probably be pleased with this.
The brand launched a single shade at first, called Sun Idol, but now there are two additional shades: Ethereal and Enchanted.

I like glow, and I’m glad this isn’t sparkly with large shimmer particles, but the shimmer isn’t quite as refined enough for me to like this as is. However, there is a bright side. I have found that when I use a finishing powder on top, it tones things down and makes my highlighter application look smoother. Typically, I use a finishing powder first before adding highlighter as the final step in my makeup routine to avoid dulling down the shine, but it works better for me to swap the order in this case! Using this method has made me like the highlighter a lot more.
I don’t like adding extra steps to my routine, but since it’s merely adding finishing powder to a spot I usually skip, I don’t consider this to be a problem.

I unfortunately can’t do comparison swatches with either of the previous ABH highlighter formulas because I left them in the US.

Color, finish, texture, and all other preference things aside, I don’t have any issues with this product. I can pick up the amount I want easily on my brushes, it adheres and blends well enough on my cheeks, and the glow doesn’t dim or disappear until I’m ready to remove it myself.

I didn’t pay full price for this, and the full presentation of the weighty packaging and embossed highlighter surface is beautiful, so I wouldn’t regret buying something like this under normal circumstances. However, I can’t feel like it was a great purchase if it hasn’t surpassed my top highlighters (Hindash and Prada included). I was only interested in this highlighter for nostalgic reasons, wishing I could capture the Amrezy excitement that I didn’t get to fully participate in because the color of that highlighter was too light for me. So, this wasn’t a good buy for me personally, but it’s nice enough that I wouldn’t discourage someone else from ordering it.

I would say the quality is on par with Nars, and theirs is $42. I’m more inclined to recommend Hindash’s Gradiant Highlighters, which cost the same $40, but ABH does have better packaging. My highlighter favorites tend to be quite expensive, but I’d rather buy something with worse packaging if the tradeoff is an amazing formula.

As a side note, Amrezy debuted her own brand in August. They only have lip products at the moment. I’m guessing Amrezy doesn’t have the rights to ABH’s formula, but I wonder if she will try to capitalize off of the past hype and come out with her own highlighters too.

So, that’s all I have for today! I’ve been impressed by this brand stepping up their packaging and releasing decent products, but they haven’t really become staples for me. I would say perhaps others will have an even better experience with the makeup than me, but I don’t think the brand is doing so well right now. After all, Anastasia Beverly Hills’ credit rating was downgraded after missing their payment to their creditors in August. So, that’s not a good sign regarding the brand’s finances.

In any case, I hope this post has been helpful. My opinions of these products may seem a bit critical to some, but there are plenty of other reviews going around the web singing the brand’s praises. I wish someone had told me some of the downsides to these products before I bought them. They’re not bad, but they’re not going to be right for everyone.

Thank you for reading!

-Lili ❤

Victoria Beckham Beauty Cocoa Eye Wardrobe and Lid Lustre Review

Posted on October 27, 2025 by ghekate

I love the brand’s Eye Wardrobe in the shade Victoria, so when they released the Cocoa collection, I thought I would love this color story even more, particularly because I prefer how warmer tones of eyeshadows look on me.

Before we get into the review, I wanted to take the time to describe my order experience for those who have never ordered directly from the website. I used to get my VBB products from Selfridges, but the regulations are back with Selfridges being unable to ship food and cosmetics to Germany. So, I created an account to join the V-Suite, the brand’s Loyalty Program. When you join, that makes you eligible to add a free sample in your order, but I happened to sign up during the time when there was a glitch that didn’t allow that option to pop up in the cart. After missing out on a second order, I contacted the brand, and they were kind enough to send the ones I requested in a separate shipment. I will share details about what I got at the end of this post. Also, I checked the website a week later and the glitch was fixed.

The dust pouch comes with all orders and standard shipping is free over €70. Paid standard shipping to me costs €5 and they ship to Germany via UPS. Each time has been an interesting game of receiving the shipment confirmation within a day or two, getting an email the day after that stating that my order will arrive the next day, then the next day getting an email about the delivery being postponed/delayed, and then the product arriving after that. I’m happy that VBB ships fast, and now that I know things will not actually come the first day it’s expected to be delivered, I can just anticipate the actual date of arrival and plan accordingly. Whenever I get a package that ships out of Netherlands via other carriers, it usually takes 3-5 days or more. So, I’ve been really pleased to get my VBB orders from Netherlands to Germany in two days.

The price listed on the website includes VAT already and I have not encountered any additional fees after ordering.

Eye Wardrobe in Cocoa

The leftmost shade, which I call Shade 1, is the first satin I’ve used from the brand. Applying a normal amount looks opaque at first, but when I blend it lightly to smooth it out, it becomes a lot more sheer. If I don’t perfectly even out the discoloration around my eyes with primer, the pearly mica within this eyeshadow creates an unflattering grey tinge (due to the level of darkness underneath). So, I have to really pack this on to use it in larger areas, I must ensure that the eyeshadow primer I’m using will create a completely blank canvas, or I just need to use it strategically in smaller areas where I want to add brightness. The latter is the easiest option for me.

Shade 2 looks super warm when applied heavily, but if I’m just using a normal amount, it doesn’t look as bold. If I blend it out too much, it doesn’t stand out enough on my skin tone. That’s just the nature of having brown skin with a warm undertone, then trying to add a warm brown eyeshadow on top that isn’t too different in depth! So, I try my best to pack this shade on, and I’m glad that it’s buildable.

The photos above and below are the 4 steps to creating a single eye look. I wanted to show the process because of how easy it is for Shade 1 and 2 to get lost in the overall look.

I like how the eye makeup turned out in the photo, but this was actually my third attempt. I didn’t like my previous looks for several reasons, the first being that I used Shade 1 from the brow to the crease, which made everything that I tried to layer on top of it look a lot more muted. I tend to dislike my eye looks if there isn’t much of a gradient or distinction between colors, so the look became murky and unflattering. Even when I used less of Shade 1, I really did not like having it and Shade 2 blending into each other. The base color of Shade 1 is warm, but its semi-frosty sheen from the mica clashes with the intense warmth from Shade 2. I usually start my eye looks from lightest to darkest, but I found it was better to use Shade 2 strongly built up in the crease before adding Shade 1 in my usual highlighting spots. That way, I could add enough of Shade 1 for it to stand out in the look, but not in a thick enough layer to turn frosty-looking.
My final reason for disliking my earlier attempts is that I didn’t use enough of the darkest shade, which is needed to create that gradient and sculpt out the outer corner. Attempting a light, everyday type of look just isn’t my style. I wanted to celebrate having some lightness because these Eye Wardrobe color stories tend to be smoky and glam, but that’s what appealed to me in the first place. I just needed to embrace the drama, and that led me to finally creating a look that I liked.

Speaking of drama, the star of the show is supposed to be the bold warm shimmery brown in this palette. As seen in the photo below, it was really not that impactful in the beginning! I liked the shine a little more when I applied it wet, but I was quite disappointed to discover that Shade 3 didn’t have the same level of sparkle as the shimmer shade in the Victoria palette. The mattes from VBB seem to be generally good, but the standout formula for me are the shimmers. When I feel the texture of the Cocoa shimmer, it isn’t as creamy or chunky as the shimmer from Victoria.

This may have just been an issue in the beginning of the testing process because some of my recent looks have been more to my preference. I guess I just needed to use the quad enough times to dig those shimmer particles out of the pan and onto my eyes. Granted, Cocoa is still smoother and drier than the Victoria shimmer by comparison, and since it’s a dark gold on top of a medium-dark bronze, the sparkles don’t stand out quite as much as silver on a blackened taupe.

In the swatches below, Cocoa looks a lot more impressive than in the beginning.

I’m not sure if my photos are good enough to be able to tell, but Shade 4 is not as smooth as the mattes in the Victoria palette, or even the terracotta color in Cocoa. It’s not rough or dry, but it just doesn’t feel as silky to the touch, and I’m not sure why considering the ingredient list isn’t any different. It’s quite surprising that Shade 3 from Victoria is much darker and smokier, yet quicker to blend out without patches than Shade 4 in Cocoa. I thought it might just be that Shade 4 doesn’t layer as well over Cocoa’s shimmer, but I didn’t use that shimmer in the mascara section and it still just doesn’t build up the same way. Perhaps the choice to make Shade 4 require more building was intentional. I haven’t seen anyone else mention this, but none of the creators had the same skin tone as me, so it doesn’t require as much product to build up this shade on them.

I’d like to clarify that I don’t think this shade is a dud. It’s not as if I can’t get it to work. It’s just not effortless on me, which I can’t help but notice because of how much use I get out of the Victoria Eye Wardrobe.

Additional information about Shade 1 that I want to share is that although I wish the base color was stronger, it’s still less sheer than the lightest shade in the Chanel Boutons Quad I reviewed a few months ago. Also, a benefit to it being somewhat translucent is that it makes a surprisingly pretty highlighter on me! I don’t know how often I’ll use it this way, but it makes me less disappointed by this shade.

I wouldn’t want to get anymore satin eyeshadows from the brand, since I doubt I would find them to be more useful than this.

Overall, it’s still a very usable palette. I’ve just ended up preferring to pair this with Victoria rather than using it alone. The shimmer in Cocoa being on the smoother side, but still reflective, leaves me feeling satisfied…enough. I have to admit that I’m just not as in love with the palette as I would have been if there was more bling, or rather, if it was easier to transfer the blingy bits from the pan onto my eyes. The only feelings of regret I have is when I think about the other neutral luxury quads I already own, but then I don’t feel as guilty for spending the money on Cocoa after making another look with Cocoa and Victoria together. So, perhaps it was still worth it in the end.

Lid Lustre in Velvet

So many people were praising the shimmer formula of the Eye Wardrobes when they first released, particularly the one from Victoria, because they said it was like having a Lid Lustre in a pan instead of a pot. Some even said the Lid Lustre formula is superior.

I am not a single eyeshadow type of person, but I find the idea of being able to buy additional shimmers without them being tied to a full quad quite enticing. So, I bought Velvet as my first one to try out!

Velvet is described as, “a golden olive with antiqued pearl, infused with Malachite.”
Many high end and luxury brands like to tout their crushed pearls, diamond powder, and whatnot as the key ingredient of their shimmery eyeshadows, despite the fact that we know it’s most commonly mica and/or synthetic fluorphlogopite doing the heavy lifting. In the case of the Lid Lustres, they are supposed to be “crystal infused,” with the ingredient lists citing the stones as extracts.
For example, there’s “malachite extract” in Velvet, “amethyst extract” in Midnight, “citrine extract” in Starlight, “opal powder” in Honey, quartz in Tea Rose and Mink, and so on. Since these crystals are so far down in the ingredient lists while synthetic fluorphlogopite and/or mica are right at the top, I feel like the contribution of these crystals is almost negligible except to New Age crystal therapy believers. However, I cannot deny how great the formula is, and how much shine and sparkle I get from Velvet, which is the most important thing.

I think it’s evident in the swatches of the shimmer eyeshadows compared to the Lid Lustre that the Lid Lustre is indeed more sparkly with a wet-look shine. I had assumed the Lid Lustres would feel like a cream eyeshadow, but it’s nowhere near that level of wetness. However, there’s still water, squalane, hydrogenated vegetable oil, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, caprylate, and propanediol in the formula, so the brand included a plastic protective lid within the jar to prevent those moisture elements from drying out.

I mentioned that I’m not a single-eyeshadow type of person, especially when it comes to cream and liquid formulas, but I thought it would be interesting to compare the Lid Lustre shine level to the Pat Mcgrath’s FetishEYES Longwear Liquid Eye Shadow and Lisa Eldridge’s Liquid Lurex.

I’ve always been impressed with the Lisa Eldridge liquid eyeshadows because they tend to be a little more impactful and set better than the ones from Pat Mcgrath, plus they happen to be less expensive as well. While they’re $30 for LE vs $32 for PML in the US, the prices in Germany are €25 for LE vs €34 for PML. So, it’s easy to see why Lisa Eldridge became my go-to if I want to use liquid eyeshadows.
VBB Lid Lustres are $38 in the US or €42 in Germany. The Lid Lustres are more impactful, but they also cost a lot more money. In Germany, the price of two Lid Lustres is the same as four eyeshadows in the Eye Wardrobe. I could spend €42 on a Lid Lustre or €55 for an Eye Wardrobe refill. So, as much as I like the idea of being able to just buy a single, the Eye Wardrobes are arguably a better value. Then again, if future Eye Wardrobe shimmers aren’t going to have as much bling as the Lid Lustres, the money may be better spent on the Lid Lustres instead. For all I know, there could be some tamer shades of Lid Lustres too. I haven’t seen the full range in person.

Since I’ve only had this pot eyeshadow for a few weeks, I can’t say how long this will stay fresh. I can only say that the formula adheres well to the lids, although it works much better when I apply it with my finger instead of a brush. I haven’t noticed any fallout. I don’t get creasing.* There’s no fading. I am very satisfied with the sparkle and shine level. If I apply these with a damp brush, the surface looks smoother, but the overall effect doesn’t change a whole lot.

*UPDATE: NOVEMBER 10, 2025 – I have to specify that I don’t get creasing or fading in the usual way I wear a Lid Lustre, which is with a primer of some kind underneath. Typically, I use the Lisa Eldridge Liquid Silk Liquid Eyeshadow to conceal the discoloration around my eyes, and it’s also a good barrier to prevent the oils from my eyelids from breaking down my eyeshadow. Since it’s second nature for me to prime my eyes before using a Lid Lustre, I didn’t realize that using a Lid Lustre on my bare oily eyelids will cause creasing before it starts to break down fully. So, please be aware that if you have oily lids too, a good primer is likely necessary.

If I were to store this in a drawer or someplace other than right where I do my makeup, I would not get enough use out of this product for it to be worth it. However, I have been keeping it next to the Victoria Eye Wardrobe, so when I want to use that palette, it’s not too much extra trouble to dip into Velvet as well. I definitely would like to have more of these, but I will think it over when Black Friday rolls around because the brand usually has 20% or 25% off products during that time.

One final thing I wanted to mention is that I have been very tempted by the Olive Eye Wardrobe color story, but a few people were disappointed with theirs, stating they didn’t like the satin and the shimmer didn’t have enough oomph. This is why I bought Velvet instead, and I feel like I made the right choice.

Website Samples/V-Suite

Victoria Beckham Beauty Vast Lash Mascara (Deluxe Sample)

I love the richness of the black mascara, and I could definitely use some volume, but I still prioritize length over volume. I used this in the Lid Lustre demo photo, and my lashes could hardly be seen above my eyeliner. So, I made sure to do as thin of a line as I could in the photo above, so the effects of the mascara can be seen. I have only used this twice and I didn’t have issues with clumping or smudging, though I did find a mascara flake under my eyes one of those times.

I know VBB has another mascara called Future Lash, which might be more my speed. I hope it will one day be a free sample option or that the brand will make a travel size.

The Concealer Pen (Sample Booklet 2: Medium Dark to Rich)

I’m mostly just sharing what the shades look like. There wasn’t enough product in the foil samples to try more than once, and I had to cut the wear test short.

I was pleased with the amount of coverage I got. There was a tiny bit of fading early on (perhaps I didn’t apply enough), but then for the next six hours it continued to look the same and didn’t fade any further. When choosing a concealer for my under eye area, I want it to match the color of my skin above my brows and my cheek area since my eyelid discoloration will be covered up with a primer, eyeshadows, etc. MD1 was too light and MD2 was too dark and too strong of a peachy-orange color and turned olive looking on me. I was going to give up there, but decided to try DK1 anyway, and it was definitely the closest match of the bunch! It’s still a bit neutral compared to the warmth of my surrounding skin color, but I think I can still pull it off when the rest of my makeup goes on.

There is a shade called MD1.5 that was not part of the sample pack, but it’s available on the website. It is described as having a golden undertone, which sounds like it would be better for me than a peach or neutral that the majority of these medium dark to dark shades have. However, since MD1 was too light and MD2 was dark, There’s no way for me to know if MD 1.5 could still be too light, or if it could be perfect. I don’t usually buy brightening shades of concealer because it makes my under eye circles underneath look grey.

From my limited experience with these samples, I’m interested enough to want to buy one during a sale, but I don’t know if I should take the chance on MD1.5 for the undertone or play it safe with DK1 for its depth. Perhaps I should not get one at all, though I want this concealer not just for the makeup aspect, but also the advertised skincare benefits.
I’m working on a big concealer post that will probably be ready by December or sometime in the early months next year. So, if this doesn’t make it into that post, you’ll know I decided to skip it.

Well, that’s all I have for today! I hope this post has been helpful!

I don’t usually post referral codes, but I wish I had known about it to get 20% off my first order. According to the website, clicking this link, gives customers 20% off their first order of $75 or more. If you’re not interested in this method, the brand also offers 15% off for signing up to their emails. I used the code HELLO15. My internet searches say at some point WELCOME15 and/or GLOW15 worked as well.

-Lili ❤

2025 Charlotte Tilbury Instant Look in a Palette

Posted on October 20, 2025 by ghekate

I’ve been using the Hollywood Instant Look in a Palette (in Dreamy, Bronzed Beauty) sporadically over the past two weeks, so I feel ready to share my thoughts.

Before we start the review, I’d like to highlight the fact that Charlotte Tilbury used to have annual face palette launches, but they were usually not deep-skin friendly. The photos below are of the three darkest palettes the brand created until this year. I didn’t end up buying the one on the left because of how light it looked on tan reviewers I saw on YouTube. I didn’t get the one in the middle because I feared none of the cheek products would work on my skintone, especially since I was darker in 2021. I didn’t buy the one on the right because I rarely reach for blush and highlighter palettes. A face palette doesn’t feel complete to me without at least a blush, bronzer, and highlighter together.

**Photo Credit**: **CharlotteTilbury.com**

In 2023 and 2024, the brand took a break from making larger face palettes, so I’ve been waiting at least six years to finally try one! That’s why, despite my pledge to quit buying face palettes, I made this exception.

I wanted to acknowledge this history because I have always been critical of Hourglass for their limited shade selections in Ambient Edit Palettes, yet I haven’t said nearly as much about the Charlotte Tilbury ones. I think it’s because as much hype as Charlotte Tilbury powder products get, it’s never to the level of Hourglass. So, I was far more disappointed when I could not use an Hourglass Palette vs one from Charlotte Tilbury.

Starting with the eyeshadows, the 1 Brighten shade is described as a warm tan with silver shimmer. On my skin tone, the tan color is only visible if I apply it wet (as seen in the photo above), and technically on top of a darker shadow. So, if I just tap it on top of my lids without dampening it, only the silver particles show in a scattered-effect-topper kind of way.

2 Enhance is described as warm copper with pink shimmer. As seen in the second pair of eye looks, it is difficult to tell the difference between the two shades on my lids. In real life, if I put Enhance on one eyelid and Brighten on the other, my eyes wouldn’t be closed long enough for anyone to be able to spot the difference. So, I can’t help but feel like I got a duplicate eyeshadow in this palette. I don’t mind having what amounts to one topper shade, but to have two out of three is a bit disappointing. That being said, they’re at least pretty. If I want a sparkly and slightly less scattered look, I reach for Enhance instead of Brighten. It is also true that I can get a slightly pinker look when I dampen this eyeshadow shade, or much pinker when I use the blushes on my eyes too.*

*If you’re concerned about whether or not the face products are considered eye safe, based on your government’s regulations, I recommend checking the official Charlotte Tilbury website and ingredient lists for information regarding that. I have not looked into this, and have tried them at my own risk.

Regarding fallout, applying the shimmer eyeshadows damp ensures that I don’t have too many particles under by eyes by the end of the day, especially if I also use the Nyx Glitter primer. Plus, I get the bonus of these methods intensifying the amount of sparkle that’s on my lids.

3 Smoke is described as a rich burgundy matte. It is indeed dark enough that I can be satisfied with creating eye looks using only this matte and one of the shimmers. I don’t like how rounded my natural eye shape is, so I prefer to use at least three eyeshadows to create a high contrast look with a sculpted outer corner in an almond shape that detracts attention from how rounded my upper lash line is.

I get decent pigment from this shade, though I still have to build it up a little to be satisfied. Layering and blending with it is fine, but not super quick. Basically, this isn’t an amazing eyeshadow quality, but it’s nice enough. I at least don’t have issues with patchiness. For those wondering, I use the Lisa Eldridge Liquid Silk Eyeshadow as my main eyeshadow base.

I have attempted to create eyeshadow looks using the bronzer and blushes as well, but they are not deep enough to give me the depth I require in my eye looks. I have to end up using Smoke or reaching for a different palette to finish the look.

So, if I include the brown bronzer as a blending out or softening shade, the face powder as a brightening shade, the raspberry-pink matte blush and shimmery glow blush as ways to intensify the pink elements of eye looks, the Smoke shade for dimension, and I use the two shimmers damp, I’m content enough with the variety of pink and purple eye looks I can create.

Moving on to the face products, I thought it was a good opportunity to show the differences between the Flawless Finish powder shades.

The swatches look quite stark and ashy, but all of these work for me under my eyes. In fact, Tan looks the best suited for me in the swatch, but I rarely use it on its own because it darkens the look of my under eye concealer if I’m using one that’s already a skin-tone shade.
My go-to combination has been to use a mixture of Medium and Tan together. When I’ve used Light Peach, it has been for its color-correcting elements, lightening a blush, or if I’m in a hurry and don’t feel like reaching for a different powder shade while I already have this palette open. This also applies to when I’m using the Soulmates Duo, which is where Light Peach (it may also be referred to as Flawless Peach) was first debuted by the brand.
It’s the same great quality I’m used to from the permanent line of face powders.

As for the Tan-Deep shade in the brightening formula, I bought a mini for color-correcting purposes once again. I have only used it once, so I don’t feel comfortable posting a full review. However, I wanted to at least demonstrate how it looks for anyone curious.

I have a bigger Charlotte Tilbury post I’ve been working on for a while, so if there is any information I need to update, I will post about it at that time. That post might not be ready until next year though. There are a lot of other reviews I’d like to complete first.

Next up to discuss is the bronzer. When I heard it was the shade Tan, I was a bit disappointed because that shade has never worked for me in the past. However, the one in this palette does faintly show up!

I wish I still had my older version of Tan to be able to compare it to the new one and see if there has been a slight color change. The reason I think it’s possible is because it’s stated on the website that this bronzer is actually a new powder formula. So, maybe the brand made this version the tiniest bit darker. Maybe it’s not actually darker, and is just easier to see because it’s a warmer tone of orange that stands out more on my skintone. The third possibility is that I might be lighter now than when I was in Florida, so I have no idea if the older powder version of Tan would work for me by now. The cream version of Tan has always worked though.

Shade match aside, I do believe there is a difference between the old powder bronzer and new one. My powder version of Deep is fairly old by now, so I don’t know if that could account for the new one feeling the tiniest bit softer and creamier, whereas the older one has a more powdery consistency. The older one had a beautiful airbrushed finish, which also accounted for a more obvious makeup look. The newer one has a more skin-like finish, which I would normally consider a great thing. However, I reach for Charlotte’s bronzer specifically when I want a slightly heavier glam look. The airbrushed blur is what made it stand out from most of my bronzer collection. As nice as this bronzer finish is now, it’s not as unique.

The reformulated version matches the quality of many of my high-end and luxury products, which makes it a great addition to this palette. The blendability is nice. I have no issues with longevity. So, I wouldn’t go out of my way to reach for a different bronzer if I’m already in the process of using this face palette. This difference might just effect whether I would buy an individual compact of the brand’s reformulated bronzer if they do end up launching them, considering it wouldn’t be giving me something different from what I already have from Hermes, the older Dior bronzer formula, etc.
Powdery airbrush type of bronzers I love are by Victoria Beckham, Gucci, Vieve, etc. It’s just that Charlotte’s ranked above all of them for this specific look. The new formula is still good, but I would want it when I’m in the mood for a different makeup style (like neutral or natural).

Moving onto blushes, I don’t think Charlotte Tilbury has expanded their permanent powder blush range since the addition of Pillow Talk Intense in 2020. There have been limited edition powder blushes, but it’s interesting that the brand’s focus for the past several years has been to extend the options of Beauty Wands and various cream formulas. The limited edition powder blush shades intended for those with medium, tan, and dark skin have been just different enough for me to justify owning them all. However, I can understand some of the frustrations I hear my fellow makeup lovers talk about regarding the options. People are ready for something distinctly different, and not just in liquid or cream form.

Blushes are still currently my favorite category of makeup, although eyeshadows are getting close to reclaiming their former position. So, these blushes were what I was the most excited to try. When I saw 6 Cheek Matte Blush in person, I was nervous because it reminded me of YSL’s Berry Bang that I got in August. However, I was very happy that I find Charlotte’s to be a prettier tone on me. It’s pigmented, soft, and buildable. To have a little more control of the matte blush and get it to have as light of a layer as it appears in the demonstration photos above, I used the Sonia G Soft Cheek Brush.

This blush lasts all day without fading. It also doesn’t look too matte for my dry skin, although I prefer to add a little of 7 Cheek Glow Blush on top to make my cheeks appear a bit more supple.

I was surprised to see that the Cheek Glow Blush is the only one not inside a pan. It feels like a gelee or slurry formula on top of plastic netting/mesh. Some products like this can be hard pressed, but this one is not. I have no issues getting enough product onto my brushes, but since it’s not as pigmented as the matte blush, I like to cut to the chase and use a brush that’s a bit denser and picks up more, like the Hakuhodo G6440.** One other brush I’ve been loving with it is the Bisyodo B-P-03 Perfect Fit Powder Brush.* I haven’t written an official review for it yet, but I want to share the fact that it lays down these blushes so well and it’s great to blend with. Despite being large, I can dip the lower angled portion of the brush onto the surface of the blushes, and then when I blend, there is a portion of the brush that doesn’t have product on there. So, I can diffuse the blush without packing on additional product in the process.

*DISCLOSURE: Every link (in this Bold Blue Font) is a regular non-affiliate link. The brush link (in this Bold Black Font With a Blue Background) is the only affiliate link in this post. This means I would get a commission from anyone who decides to make a purchase from CDJapan after clicking my link. Athough chances are slim that anyone who has used my links in the past will see this message in a post that isn’t dedicated specifically to Japanese Fude, I still want to show my thanks and appreciation. As someone with such a tiny blog, it’s still a shock to me whenever I see that someone has used my link, or even to just see the number of people who have clicked them. Thank you very much. ❤

**Side Note: I feel compelled to point out that when I bought the Hakuhodo brush almost a year ago, it was listed at 19,000 YEN. Between Black Friday discounts and the shipping fee via shopping through Fude Bobo, I ended up spending a little less than that on the brush, and it still felt like quite the splurge for a brush of that size. Four months ago, Hakuhodo raised their prices again, so this brush costs 26,000 YEN now! As much as I love this brush, I cannot recommend Hakuhodo anymore at these prices.

Returning to the subject of the glowy blush, one downside is that it emphasizes texture a little bit. It’s not as intense or metallic looking as certain shades of the brand’s Blush Wands can appear, but it could still be too much for some people’s makeup preferences. Also, this blush shade shows up enough on me to consider it a usable standalone blush, but I find it more practical to regard it as a blush topper. It’s shiny enough to add glow like a highlighter, but the tone matches so well with the blush that I feel it doesn’t stands out enough or draws enough focus to my cheeks like a traditional highlighter would. So, I prefer to add the Cheek Glow Blush to the apples of my cheeks and/or the top of my cheekbones, but still apply a real highlighter on top to finish the look. Perhaps I would feel differently if my undertone wasn’t golden, since pink highlighters don’t pass for natural on me.

The YSL All Hours Couture Palette in Golden Oasis still feels new to me, so it’s natural to want to compare these two products. In USD, YSL’s face palette contains three blushes and three highlighters for $85. Charlotte’s face palette contains three eyeshadows, two blushes, one face powder and one bronzer for $69. The differences in Germany were much smaller as it’s €72 for YSL and €69 for the Charlotte Tilbury palette. I essentially liked half of the YSL palette, but would only really use two blushes (and I already owned one of those two). With the Charlotte Tilbury palette, I can use everything in multiple ways and I like all of the shades. I can finish a good portion of my makeup by whipping out this single palette. I like it more than the YSL and more than the Nars Hot Escape Cheek Palette. I still stand by my thoughts that the ones from YSL and Nars could be good in particular circumstances, and what I actually paid for them was a pretty good deal. This one just turned out to be even better.

I don’t believe it’s recency bias if I consider this to be among my most useful face palettes: Hindash Beautopsy, Sephora Microsmooth Multi-Tasking Baked Face Palette, Hourglass Ambient Edit Palettes, and now the Charlotte Tilbury Instant Look in a Palette. Considering the fact that I don’t like to use any of the others on the eyes, this palette has that edge. Hindash’s still has my best contour color, Sephora’s has a true highlighter, and Hourglass’ has a glowy bronzer option. So, I like and use these on different occasions. I believe the reason I would end up getting a lot of use out of the Charlotte Tilbury palette is for convenience. It’s just easy to have so many usable pretty products in one palette, which is the whole appeal of having a face palette in the first place.
I am glad that this one turned out to be such a good purchase!

That’s everything for this week. Thank you for reading!

-Lili ❤

Singe Beauty Agate Temptation Palette

Posted on October 13, 2025 by ghekate

I will forever think of Agate Crosner when the word “Agate” comes up in anything.

Gaming reference aside, this is my first eyeshadow palette from Singe Beauty. I love greens and this color story reminded me of the Oden’s Eye Merry Christmas Palette. Of course, the thought crossed my mind that I should probably not get this palette if it reminds me of something else, but I was too impatient to try and wait for the brand to release a color story that attracted me while being different enough to be unique to my makeup collection. Singe doesn’t do fast releases, so it could potentially take years for me to be interested in another palette of theirs (though Paisley Hoot is quite pretty). I wanted to see what kind of eyeshadow formula Angie chose, so having a lot of colors I liked was good enough for me.

I’d like to note that I’ve owned this palette since June, so this is far from a first impression. I’ve been using it every-so-often organically in the latter half of 2025. By now, I’ve used it enough to share my thoughts.

I’ll start by getting into the specifics of the eyeshadows.

Achates and Metamorphic are very uncommon tones of orange and brown. I am shocked to say that they’re my favorite mattes in the palette, even above the greens! Achates reminds me of a higher quality version of the orange shade from the Juvia’s Place Nubian Glow Palette or a bit like Oromo from the Juvia’s Place Tribe Palette.
I can’t recall where I’ve seen a shade like Metamorphic, but it reminds me of chocolate chip cookie dough. I can’t explain why!

I usually rely on black eyeshadows to add depth and smokiness to the outer corners of my eyes, but Dendritic is such a beautiful rich brown that I feel perfectly happy just using this. It’s somehow soft and intense at the same time!
Chalcedony is too light and thin, so I can see my skin through it unless I pack on a ridiculous amount of layers. I wish more of the pale mint tinge would show instead of it just looking white, but it doesn’t because of my skin tone. It would need to have more grey than white in the base for the green to show on me, like the shade Memory in the Urd palette from Oden’s Eye.
Banded is not neon on my eyes, but I don’t mind that it’s an easier to wear kind of color. It’s thin as well, but I have an easier time with Banded than Chalcedony to hide my skin peeking through.

Moss, Slice, Geode, and Plume deserve recognition for being the kind of greens I use a lot. They just aren’t as uncommon, as they are similar to Melt Cosmetics greens, Oden’s Eye greens, the Coloured Raine Safari Palette and Juvia’s Place Tribe Palette.
As for Volcanic, it’s not a shade I make a fuss for, but it goes well with the color story.

In summation, the mattes blend and layer nicely. It’s not a quick process, but it’s not tedious either. They have a semi-silky feeling, but they’re not creamy. The kickup is minimal. The pigmentation is high, but I still have to build up certain shades. Metaphorically, it’s as if someone took the old school Juvia’s Place formula (that I like way more than their current one) and combined it with Natasha Denona’s current matte formula (which is nice but still not a favorite).
A few weeks ago, I reviewed my first palettes from Cosmic Brushes, Glaminatrix Cosmetics, and Wicked Widow. I can say, I definitely prefer Singe Beauty mattes over all of those.

The shimmers are impactful, but Quartz is super reflective and sparkly. The particle size is small enough to have a refined look to the eyeshadows, but not at the same level of high end and luxury brands, which is still fine. I don’t always want a blinging shimmer, or conversely a subtle satin, so this palette’s shimmers are great for the times when I’m in-between moods.

The consistency of the shimmers isn’t too thin or too thick. Quartz is the thickest. These eyeshadows feel a bit slick, but not enough to give me problems with creasing. In fact, it wasn’t until I was nearly finished with my final draft of this review that I learned Angie intentionally wanted shimmers on the thin and less emollient side so there wouldn’t be creasing.
Translucent is the aptly named duochrome topper, which is bold, but not as intense as other indie brands’ more expensive eyeshadows. The same can be said for the multichrome, Chrystallized, which is pretty to look at in the pan, but not that shifty on my eyes. It’s ironic that it’s possibly one of the more expensive eyeshadows in the palette, yet its also one of my least favorites. Regarding the textures, I need to spray Translucent to combat the fallout and be able to apply a smooth and even amount to lids. Chrystallized is the hardest to pick up with my natural hair brushes, so it’s easier to apply with my finger.
I admit that I haven’t used this palette with my Singe eye brushes, which are synthetic. They’re not in my container of brushes in rotation because I’m really behind on my Fude reviews. The Singe F03 is still in there though!

Silica is the “sparkly wet-looking topper,” that appears mostly gold in darker and warmer light, but I can see the mix of silver and gold in brighter settings. Examples of this are in the eyeshadow demo photos.
Gilded is stunning, even though it’s a more “traditional” shimmer. The tone of this warm gold is just so flattering on my lids.
Fire is a warm red with gold sparkles. So many brands make pink to gold eyeshadows, so it’s refreshing to see a twist. Reds aren’t my favorite for eyeshadow (unless it’s a rusty red-brown), but the shade is on the fringe of looking coral on my eyes, so I’m not opposed to it being in this palette.

When I think about the qualities of Agate Temptation, the phrase, “Jack of All Trades, Master of None,” comes to mind. This is a solidly good palette; it’s just not at a level that I could call phenomenal. These days, with the number of influencers that say everything is “amazing” or “my new holy grail,” something that has the rating of “really good” can still seem like it’s not worth anyone’s time. However, I like Agate Temptation enough to easily recommend it to anyone interested in buying it. These aren’t the world’s creamiest, most blinding, immaculately effortlessly blending eyeshadows on the market. These aren’t like my YSL or Prada eyeshadows, but I still enjoy using this palette. I don’t have Juvia’s Place Tribe or Coloured Raine Safari eyeshadows with me in Germany, but Agate Temptation gives me similar vibes and I get a nostalgic feeling when I use it. I’ve also been obsessed with the warm-mint chocolate chip eyeshadow combination I’ve seen others do, and I’ve enjoyed creating my variations of the look.

I see myself continuing to reach for this palette even after the review, which made it even more worth it to buy over some of the other palettes that I consider to be better performing.
I know my criteria for judging a palette’s worth is largely centered around how much I love the formula. So, it’s strange to say these eyeshadows rank below my top ten favorite formulas, but still manages to be a purchase I’m glad to have made. The quality is good enough for me to enjoy working with the palette, and the mix of interesting neutrals with fun pops of color continue to entice me.

With the international shipping cost and fees in mind, I don’t know if this would have been worth it if I had to make the purchase directly from the Singe Beauty site. However, I am glad Angie continues to work with Monolith to provide products to the EU so that the prices aren’t double or triple what customers in the US pay.
Also, for anyone interested in the rising cost of eyeshadow palettes, the ongoing debate whether a brand should focus on leaving out “special shades” to keep costs down, and how multichromes changed the trajectory of the indie community, I recommend watching Angie’s video How Multichromes Destroyed the Indie Makeup Pricepoint.

That’s all for today. Thank you for reading!

-Lili ❤

Ilia Soft Focus Blurring Blush Review

Posted on October 6, 2025 by ghekate

This is the first product I’ve ever purchased from Ilia. Nothing they made interested me until the release of their limited edition Ethereal Baked Face Palettes.* I didn’t buy one though because I didn’t like the packaging and I wasn’t a fan of the blush shades in the Deep palette. It would have cost $59 for four products (albeit smaller sizes), which on paper is a better deal than $36 for a single blush. However, if I didn’t like the formula, I would have technically wasted more money.

*Ilia brought back the face palettes in the US. They are still listed as limited edition, so I think they are planning to follow the Hourglass method: releasing curated palettes with powders in smaller sizes for the holidays, but having larger and more expensive individual powders in a permanent range.

Ilia Soft Focus Blurring Blush in Wonder

Because this is a baked blush, I can’t help but want to compare it to Hourglass. Hourglass has blush finishes that are matte, shimmery (mica-sheen), more shimmery (with some larger shimmer specks), and high shine (practically metallic and could double as a highlighter or blush topper). The finish of Ilia’s blush is most similar to the subtlest of Hourglass’ blushes with a sheen, but Ilia’s has much more obvious mica that gives a pearlier look and it’s a little more reflective (but not enough to look metallic). I heard that most of the shades in this range have the cool-toned sheen except Pulse.

When I rub my finger into an Hourglass blush, it feels firm even though the powder itself is soft. When I rub an Ilia blush, there’s a hollow feeling as if it could fold under the pressure of my touch if I press too hard.
There is only one other product I own that feels like this, and it’s the Fenty Demi Glow Light-Diffusing Highlighter. That one was actually prone to arriving to people broken during shipment and I recall even seeing a small crack in the first round of promo photos that were released. I don’t think the Ilia blushes are quite that fragile, but I handle mine carefully just in case.

These photos demonstrate how the blush looks in cooler lighting vs warmer lighting.

I find the finish to be a little blurring, though only as much as a luminous product can be. I use my airy delicate brushes with it, and one tap or two picks up the perfect amount of product to cover a cheek. Wonder is a very pigmented blush, but because it’s so easy to blend out, I can still use denser brushes if I want. It’s just easier to control if I use something like the Sonia G Soft Cheek or Chikuhodo Z-8 with it.

What really makes this blush stand out is the tone. There are a few vibrant shades in the range, but most are desaturated colors, which was just the kind of thing I’ve been looking for. Breathless is the shade that drew my interest in this launch, but I feared that between the mica and color depth, it would probably look ashy on me. Wonder seemed like a darker version of that shade, so I picked it, and I am convinced that no other color in the current range could have suited me better.
That being said, I could not figure out why I wasn’t in love. It’s pretty, flattering, and long-lasting on my skin. There’s no fragrance and it’s supposed to last two years (which is great coming from a brand that touts itself as being “clean.” I could find no faults with the formula, yet there were times I would apply it to my cheeks and think BareMinerals Kiss of Rose would look better.
It wasn’t until I watched Alicia Archer’s video about Terracotta Tones that I realized Wonder being more of a pink-rose terracotta instead of an earthy orange/red type of terracotta made all the difference in the world. It’s a very pretty shade and it doesn’t look bad on me, but it’s that tiny bit less flattering.

I tried to pull a few shades for comparison that I thought might be most similar to Wonder. Ironically, the closest is Kiss of Rose, and I can see how that little bit of extra warmth makes me like it more.

So, unfortunately, this didn’t work out so well for me purely based on the color. However, the formula is nice enough that I still recommend it to anyone interested in this range of blushes. In fact, if the brand comes out with a true terracotta-brown shade or some other color I love (that also has a warm sheen), I would very likely buy it. It’s $10 less than Hourglass Ambient Lighting Blushes for the equivalent amount of product as well, though the light plastic and mirror-less Ilia packaging probably contributes to a large portion of that lower price. Some people might think it looks too cheap for the price, and I can understand that feeling. For me, the compact color and the shape of it is pleasing enough to make up for that because components shaped like bars of soap are very satisfying to me. I’m not sure why!

I hope this review has been helpful. Thank you for reading!

-Lili ❤

My Rearranged/Depotted Hourglass Ambient Edit Palettes

Posted on October 1, 2025 by ghekate

*This is how the palettes looked after I rearranged some of the powders and posted the photo on **Instagram**. I made some drastic changes afterward, that I will discuss in this post.*

I did it! I summoned up the courage to do Round 2 of depotting and rearranging my Ambient Lighting Edit Palettes! This time, I had to do things old school because I left my Z-Palette branded Z-Potter behind in the US (and the brand only ships them within North America). I could try to look into purchasing a portable induction burner here, but I don’t depot often enough for it to be worth it.

I won’t be giving instructions on the depotting process because I wrote a very detailed post already in Round 1. Only a few aspects changed this time around:
One was my heating tool, a titanium flat iron, that I set at around 310°F-340°F for the tin palettes and had to bump it all the way to 380°F with the plastic quad. Another change is that I sought out magnetic strips that are specifically intended to hold objects on a wall. I figured that should ensure the adhesive backing and magnetic grip are both strong enough for palettes that will always be laid flat anyway. Lastly, my husband bought me a label maker, so I could print and stick the shade names onto the metal stickers instead of writing everything by hand.

Since I hadn’t dealt with the plastic Hourglass palettes at the time of Round 1, I will give the warning here that they are much more difficult to depot than the tin ones. The plastic palettes have more glue and they are set way tighter/flush to the sides of the component. Meaning, it is even harder to wedge the cosmetic spatula between the tile and walls of the compact. I couldn’t get them out without scraping at least some of the edges. In addition, the bottom of the compact will be partly warped/melted because it requires so much heat. My husband thinks keeping the palettes at lower heat, but for a much longer amount of time might work too, but I didn’t have the patience to try that method.

This is an example of how the plastic palette looked once two shades were depotted (and you can see where I quit midway while attempting to depot a third). I used the aluminum foil between the plastic and my hair straightener to avoid dirtying the plates.

The first two customized palettes I’m going to show are the ones I said I would make in my Swan Palette and Dusk Quad review. The arrangements aren’t the exact same because I tried to avoid depotting the powders that I planned to keep within the same palettes anyway.

The “Panda” Palette
(in Leopard Packaging that used to hold the Snake Palette shades)

Original Snake Palette vs Current Snake Palette

Solar Glow (Highlighter) – Fox
At Night (Blush) – Dusk Quad, Permanent Shade
Eternal Light (Finishing Powder) – Lotus, Permanent Shade
Mood Flush (Blush) – Sculpture and Dusk Quad
Mystic Flush (Blush) – Snake
Solar Bronze (Bronzer) – Snake

This is my “main” palette, the one I intend to keep within easy reach in my makeup collection.
It’s a bit of a shame that my perfect palette has the most dings and nicks from the depotting process. For some reason, the glue in the Fox palette was a silvery color. Hourglass usually uses a clear glue, unless the orange-yellow residue color isn’t from the tile. The glue under Amethyst Haze was thin, so it was easy to pop it out. I expected the same ease from the Solar Glow Highlighter, but it was so stuck in the pan that I not only dug into the powder, a few small pieces of terracotta/clay tile broke off the edge in the process. This was the first time I’d ever broken the actual tile, and the amount of glue was 5x thicker than what was under Amethyst Haze. It was such a thick layer and felt like silicone/rubber. It was also the strange silver color.
As for At Night, that came from the plastic palette with such little space to place my cosmetic spatula, so damage was unavoidable. I dug a bit into the baked tile as well.

I already talked about my reason for choosing these shades in that Swan review, but for those who didn’t read it, they are essentially a mix of my favorite shades that suit me the best and I can wear them all year round.

The “Rabbit” Palette (in Fox Packaging)

Original Fox Palette vs Current Fox Palette

Mood Exposure (Blush) – 5 Holiday Palettes, Permanent Shade
Lucid Glow (Blush as Highlighter) – Fox, Ghost Quad, Sunset Quad, Barney’s Volume III
Desert Light (Finishing Powder) – Fox
Canyon Heat (Blush) – Fox
Luminous Coral (Blush) – Swan
Bronze Fusion (Bronzer) – Fox

The original photo was taken on a sunnier day, so it looks a bit warmer. The second photo heavily relies on artificial light, as it has been cloudy all week. Please excuse those differences.

This palette is one that I will get more use from when I’m back to my winter shade. It comprises of some of my favorite powders that aren’t exactly deep skin friendly. Even though 4 out of 6 powders are from the Fox Palette, the addition of the two other blushes makes this the kind of color story I could envision Hourglass releasing as a “medium” palette in the future.

The New Dusk Palette

Original Quad vs Current Quad

Sublime Flush (Blush) – Dusk Quad, Permanent
Radiant Light (Finishing Powder) – Leopard, Permanent
Oasis Glow (Blush) – Dusk Quad, Evil Eye
Natural Bronze (Bronzer) – Swan, Evil Eye

If I can get Oasis Glow out of this palette (and most likely put Lustrous Bronze Light instead), I will turn this into a completely unusable quad. I don’t want to throw the powders away, but I don’t need Radiant Light, Sublime Flush can look a bit ashy at times, and I can’t use Natural Bronze at all. Considering the standard packaging, it would be ideal to store my least used powders. I would then put the quad in my “makeup cemetery,” the box where I keep makeup I don’t use anymore, but don’t have the heart to toss out.

The New Swan Palette (in Deer Packaging)

Current Palette

Ethereal Flush (Blush) – Leopard
Golden Hour (Highlighter) – Swan
Sunset Glow (Blush) – Butterfly
Amethyst Haze (Blush) – Fox
Coral Haze (Blush) – Snake
Mauve Fusion (Blush) – Swan

Original Palette

Initially, I just swapped out Luminous Coral for Amethyst Haze, but upon further reflection, I thought it would be cooler to make a blush-heavy palette. If I’m not sure if I want to wear the blushes from my main and winter palettes, I’m most likely going to find something I like in this one (especially if I’m in the mood for pink).

The New Lotus Palette (in Dragon Packaging)

Gilded Strobe Light (Highlighter) – Lotus
Desert Flush (Blush) – Lotus
Dim Light (Finishing Powder) – Swan, Leopard, Many Others, Permanent
Radiant Rose Strobe Light (Highlighter) – Lotus
Red 0 (Blush) – Lotus
Solar Bronze (Bronzer) – Lotus

I only swapped out Eternal Light for Dim Light. Since Red 0 is one of my most intense Hourglass blushes, I wanted to have something in here to help tone the color down, other than Desert Flush. Plus, I didn’t want to alter Lotus too much. It’s one of the deepest color stories Hourglass has created, and I would like to keep it that way in my mind, especially since this isn’t a palette I reach for that often. I may as well not mess with the arrangement too much if there’s very little benefit in doing so.

The New Owl Palette (formerly Leopard Color Story)

Original Palette vs Current Palette

Dim Light (Finishing Powder) – Leopard, Swan, Many Others, Permanent
Celestial Strobe Light (Highlighter) – Leopard
Sun Beam (Blush) – Snake
Burnished Glow (Blush) – Tiger
Iridescent Rose (Blush) – Tiger, Leopard, Horse
Lustrous Bronze Light – Leopard, Elephant

I can use most of the shades in here, but the chances are slim that I would actually want to pick them over my new versions of Snake, Fox, and Swan. Considering Owl never had its own color story, and I wanted this palette mainly for the packaging, I felt it was a good place to store less used products. I can store Owl away as if it’s just a collector piece.

My Previously Rearranged Tiger Palette

Original Palette vs First Edited Palette

Current Palette

Transcendent Light (Finishing Powder) – Tiger, Trio Volume III
Sunset Flush (Blush) – Swan
Infinite Strobe Light (Blush) – Snake
Divine Strobe Light (Highlighter) – Tiger
Mood Flush (Blush) – Dusk Quad, Sculpture Quad
Soft Flush (Blush) – Butterfly

Tiger (and technically Butterly) was the first Hourglass Palette that I made big changes to. It was the proof of concept that rearranging the powders could make me use them more. It may not look very used, but I took it traveling several times and this was my main face palette until the Snake Palette was released and I started to use that one more, specifically for the bronzer.

Although I removed Sunset Glow, which was my biggest reason for continuing to seek out this palette, I added my backup of Mood Flush which is one of my favorite shades. Plus, Infinite Strobe Light is technically a workable highlighter on me, and Sunset Flush can work as a highlighter too. So, I consider this a wild card palette. I don’t think I’ll have much of a reason to crack it open for a long time, but it still contains products I have enjoyed in the past and may feel the urge to use again in the future.

I should probably note that rather than putting magnetic strips on the tin directly, I could have just attached magnets to the bottom of the powder tiles and that would stick just fine to the metal bottom. The reason I didn’t do this is so that I could store the Hourglass powders in any empty magnetic palette I want (that’s deep enough of course). I figured that would give me more storage possibilities.

I hope you’ve found this post interesting! Which palette combination do you like the most? Have you tried depotting these powders too, or are you waiting for Hourglass to relaunch their custom quads and/or introduce custom palettes?

-Lili ❤

YSL Unexplored Garden Quad

Posted on September 29, 2025 by ghekate

I don’t have a good opening paragraph. Let’s just get right to the review!

YSL Couture Mini Clutch in 830 Unexplored Garden

Just like the previous four quads I’ve reviewed, and the holiday one, I haven’t had issues with fading, creasing, fallout, nor any problems picking up product with my natural hair brushes. I don’t need to spray my brush to get the sparkly shadow to stick to my eyes or be intensified. The shadows adhere on the first go. They blend well and quickly.

I still consider this eyeshadow quality to be among the top three that I own. I can’t decide for certain which one is number one.

When it comes to this color story, I haven’t found it to be that versatile, but I just need to create one pretty eye look in order to be happy.

Shade 1 is in the designated topper eyeshadow area of this quad (the top left corner). It looks white in the pan, but the shimmer is actually a light green color that is beautiful!

Shade 2 is the typical one that’s usually too light to show up much on my skin. I use this shade between my brow and crease to keep that space open and looking clean, plus blurring and blending out edges of the crease shade.

I consider Shade 4 to be a soft matte army green color. It’s desaturated and adds depth to the look. It’s not too deep for me to use in the crease, but I wish it had a little more vibrancy.

Shade 3 looks warmer on my lids than I expected, especially considering I can see silver sparkles in it.

Overall, this color story is pretty, but it doesn’t excite me. These aren’t the tones of green that drive me wild. I knew I had these feelings, but because I love the YSL formula and have been impatiently waiting for a green palette by them, I still wanted to own this anyway.

For anyone curious, YSL’s Over Brun is still my favorite quad of the bunch, followed by Golden Lace in second place.

That’s all for today! It’s a quick review since my opinions aren’t different from what I’ve said about the previous quads. I hope the brand will continue to explore colorful options in the future.

-Lili ❤

Indie Brands Firsts: Cosmic Beauty, Glaminatrix Cosmetics, and Wicked Widow

Posted on September 22, 2025 by ghekate

None of these palettes are new within the world of indie eyeshadows, but this is the first time I’ve purchased anything from each of these brands. This was made possible thanks to the brands working with the European retailer, Monolith!

I hear so many great things about many more independently owned businesses, such as Blend Bunny, Bella Beaute Bar, Dede Signature, Whats Up Beauty, etc. I’m just waiting for a launch from them that’s so exciting that I can no longer resist giving them a try.

For now, I have the following to play with…

Cosmic Brushes Tis the Season Palette

I purchased this palette in December 2024.

I consider the Cosmic Brushes matte formula to be better than Beauty Bay’s, on par with the better of Colourpop’s formula, but it doesn’t quite top the best of BH Cosmetics’ formulas. The mattes are colorful, pigmented, a bit dry, and are blendable enough to layer well with the other shades, but I wouldn’t call them low effort. That can make it sound like they’re troublesome to blend, which they are not. It just takes a little more time and I think it’s because most of them are pressed pigments rather than regular eyeshadows. So, that’s the trade off for the extra pigment.
I find it best to work slowly, use smaller and fluffier brushes, and apply in the order from light to dark when trying to build the eye looks. If issues still occur, I recommend trying a different eyeshadow primer.

The only matte I consider a real problem is Party, because for some reason it fades like crazy no matter how much I layer on. To be more precise, it darkens to an ashier grey-purple shade that’s a similar color depth level as my dark circles and skin discoloration, giving the illusion of it having faded to almost nothing. I had to keep packing on more of Party while taking photographs of my eye looks so that the purple tone could continue to be seen. I have a similar problem with Ribbon, but because that shade is so bright to start with, what lingers behind is still a lighter sort of grey. Switching eyeshadow primers did not help with this one. Building up about six to eight layers makes it visible for a few hours, but it’s really not even worth the effort for me as those are not the kind of purples I like anyway.

Even though the mattes generally aren’t bad, I’ve been too spoiled by more expensive eyeshadow brands and prefer to work with those over these. When it comes to indie brands that have a better balance between pigmentation and ease of use, I recommend Fantasy Cosmetica and Oden’s Eye.

Regarding the shimmer formula, I’m pleased that they have the kind of impact I expect from an indie brand. There’s no need to spray my brush in order to intensify the shine, but a shade like Baubles is on the flakier side and could benefit from a damp brush to minimize the fallout. Candle Light and Fairy Lights are a bit thick, but smooth out across the eyelid nicely. Decorations is also chunky, but the wettest of all the shadows is Celebrate.
Festive is thick and stiffer than the others, but somehow isn’t dry feeling either. It reminds me of the way Sydney Grace eyeshadows feel. Tinsel feels similar to Festive, though slightly less stiff.
Cranberries is the smoothest of the shadows, but it doesn’t have that much more slip or wetness than the others.

According to the brand, the special shades are Cranberries, “a multichrome that shifts from a cranberry red, to orange to green,” Fairy Lights, “a multichrome metallic that shifts from pastel purple to pink, to soft yellow,” and Tinsel, “a duochrome pink to gold metallic.”
I agree with their assessment of Cranberries and Tinsel, but Fairy Lights acts like an iridescent purple and pink duochrome on my skin tone.
And even though Candle Light is only described as a, “fiery orange metallic,” and Baubles as, “a reflective fuchsia purple metallic,” those two look dimensional and above ordinary to me.

Although the shimmer formulas are damp, I thankfully don’t have to deal with creasing per say, just that the shimmers don’t like to stay in the deepest line in the crease of my eye, so that’s the first place for the eyeshadow to go missing.

Using this palette brought back a lot of nostalgic feelings. It was like working with the kind of indie eyeshadows I used so often in the early years of my makeup journey.
I like the colors in this palette, and if I got this in 2019, I think I’d have been much happier with this. But, now that I’ve been spoiled by buttery, creamy, soft, highly blendable and very expensive eyeshadows from Victoria Beckham Beauty, YSL, Pat Mcgrath, and more, I am most likely to only whip this palette out during the holiday season. Even though my beloved Oden’s Eye Merry Christmas Palette contains no purples, it’s at least a holiday palette that I use all year round.

I also want to add that I think this is one of those palettes that is good for the price. To get multichromes and duochromes for $39 is pretty great, but I don’t know how much the shipping from the UK factors into the cost for those that live in the US. From the EU retailer Monolith, this cost me a little over €48 ($56) from VAT, but no additional shipping costs since I ordered enough other things to reach the free shipping minimum.

Glaminatrix Cosmetics Nocturnal Mini Palette

I bought this in October 2024.

These mattes are also quite stiff in the pans, but that doesn’t seem to effect the blend too much. I like the colors and tones, but the blues and purple are prone to changing color when I try to layer them and create a gradient. Shade mixing can be a good thing, just not when I want them to stay true to how they look in the pan. So, in order to have each individual shade be clearly recognizable in the photos, I couldn’t blend them as much as I wanted. Some of the eye looks I had to recreate a few times so they wouldn’t look like a muddy mess.
Also, Gloom turns very dark on me as time goes on, to the point that it looks like a contour color on me. It going from grungy yellow-brown to an ashier kind of brown in spots can look really messy on my eyes without even trying to layer other shades with it. As for Fog, that color also darkens to more of my skin color, but if I can get it to show true to color for most of the day if I build up enough layers.

I should also note that despite these mattes being super pigmented, Shadow is even more so. I have to be very careful incorporating this into my looks. It can get out of hand quickly.
I find it easier to do my crease shade and then put Shadow in the outer corner before adding the eyelid shimmer and topping a little bit of Shadow back on top. This is because Shadow doesn’t build on the shimmers as easily.

I like these mattes more than the ones from Cosmic Brushes, but I can understand why someone might disagree if the colors blending into one another or darkening is viewed as problematic.
These remind me of Terra Moons mattes, but better.
Despite considering these mattes to be nice enough to keep using, I still prefer to reach for easier formulas. Since living in Europe, I don’t do bold colorful looks as often, which is why the extra time needed to create these kind of looks isn’t worth it as much to me right now. However, this preference could change and in the times that I do want punchier colors, I am happy to have these options. I couldn’t resist the appeal of these tones of colors, and it cost me money to finally satisfy my curiosity. I at least paid less (€49) by getting this mini size version with 22mm eyeshadow pans.

Milky Way and Luna are the flakier shimmers. Night Vision and Dusk are the smoothest ones while Constellation is smoother than the first two mentioned, but thicker than the latter two. All five of these are considered by the brand to be duochromes and are recommended to be used with glitter glue because of their thick texture.
I haven’t found the need to use glitter glue with these, but I dampen my brush to minimize fallout.

My only gripe with Milky Way can’t really be helped. On my skintone, even when I’ve used this on top of a pink matte shade from another palette, it’s just blue. I don’t count an eyeshadow that looks one color and then disappears to turn into a different color as being a shift. That’s the same kind of trick a ph-adaptive product has. So, what makes Milky Way special to me is the high shine/reflect. I’m content enough with that. It would have been nice to be able to see some pink too though.

Night Vision is one of the shades that appealed to me most from the palette. The tradeoff for it looking smoother though is that it’s not as sparkly. The grungy dark base keeps it from looking the tad bit more vibrant as I would have liked. I believe in eye look number two, I put Murky on the lid first before adding Night Vision on top in the hopes that it would enhance the green tinge (but I cannot remember for certain). These shimmers are too thick to have a matte color underneath make a difference in the overall appearance. At least on myself, and at least with the shadows from other brands I’ve attempted to use these with.
Also, the only time I’m impressed with the look of Night Vision is when light shines on it directly. I am not satisfied with a lit up room being required.

Luna has a blue to purple shift, but it mainly just looks blue on my eyes. It’s a beautiful color, but considering I’m way more interested in purples, this color helped push this palette further into the blue territory than I enjoy. It’s the most intense shimmer in the palette, so I can’t complain too much.

Dusk just looks purple to me. It’s usually easiest for me to see a shift in a chrome shadow by holding it at different angles pointing towards and away from light sources. With this shade, I have to hold it at a very harsh angle to see it change from a cool purple to what I believe is a warmer pink-purple. I just consider it a pretty purple eyeshadow. The shift isn’t prominent.

Constellation is like a bronzy-orange to green. I can see the color change easier with this shadow than Dusk, but the green isn’t obvious on my lids. If I saw this color on someone else, I would be able to detect that there’s something fascinating and special about how it appears. I would know it’s not just a simple bronze or orange, but would not be able to figure out what’s different about it. I think that’s the power of the green shift. It’s like an optical illusion where one catches a quick glance of something, but once the eye tries to focus on it, it’s unable to be seen anymore.

I’m proud of the first and fifth eye looks. They are the most eye-catching to me, but Constellation is actually my favorite eyeshadow in this palette.

I could not find this palette on the official website, so I don’t know if it’s discontinued. However, Monolith continues to stock it.

Wicked Widow Tales of Terror: A Haunting Palette

I bought this in June 2025.

What drew me to Tales of Terror is how much the matte shades reminded me of the Viseart Dark Mattes Palette I bought in 2016. It was my favorite Fall color story, but around four years later, the eyeshadow performance gradually worsened. In 2021, I tried to use the Viseart Dark Edit Palette as a replacement, but I majorly disliked that palette. By now, there are less expensive options from Viseart, but I don’t have as much confidence in the consistency of Viseart’s batches anymore. This is due to the period of time when Viseart was transitioning from their products being produced in France, to being produced in the US.

Typical sale pricing on Viseartparis.com

The Tales of Terror palette has similar colors I loved, without the blues and red that I didn’t care about, plus the addition of shimmers. So, I felt compelled to give this a try! I waited for a sale on this one though because €69 is a lot of money to spend on a brand I hadn’t heard of until the release of this palette.

As these photos show, these shimmers are very big in particle size, bold in color, and reflective. Because they appear more textured, they naturally look less refined than the kind of shimmers I tend to use. That’s not a bad thing, as I bought this palette specifically for the eye-catching nature of it. It’s just that some brands, like Pat Mcgrath, are better at balancing intensity and sophistication at the same time. So, this palette is better suited for someone that wants maximum impact and drama. Someone who isn’t satisfied by mainstream eyeshadows is most likely to love a palette like this. Conversely, someone who likes toned down types of colorful palettes and neutral ones with a few exciting pops might find Tales of Terror to be a little too exciting.

The brand classifies all these shimmers as duochromes. They’re a bit thick and have an emollient feel. This formula is the most prone to want to migrate out of the deepest line of my eye crease. Also, the opacity level of the shimmers is so high that I can accidentally cover up all the crease work if I’m not careful with the placement. They definitely overpower the mattes, even though the mattes are super pigmented. The mattes also layer and blend out quite well.
Of the three palettes I reviewed today, I like these mattes the most. As for the shimmers, it’s tied with Glaminatrix Cosmetics because it depends on my mood. The ones in Tales of Terror are the most intense, but I don’t always want intensity.

The important thing to note about specific shades is that Creepy Crawlers and Nevermore look very similar on my eyes when used together, but it can’t compete with the twin-ness of Flickering Lights and Autumn Dreams.
The duochromatic shift is not as easy to see with Dark Void, but it changes from a spring green to a cooler aqua-green. Lastly, Spooky Nights is the kind of shade pretty much every brand that has duochromes and/or multichromes releases. However, this one is at least formulated very well. I never enjoy this kind of shade if it’s too sheer on my lids.

I like Tales of Terror enough that I foresee myself actually continuing to reach for it, though most likely just in the Fall season, the way I used to use my Viseart Dark Mattes palette. However, I don’t think I will buy more from the brand. This palette is still a bit bold for my current makeup style, and I don’t see that changing in the future. Adding additional ultra colorful palettes to my collection would be wasted on me.

I have a few more indie palettes to review, but they are coming much further in the future.

The timing of this post could not be helped. So many indie brands have suspended shipping to the US because of the tariff situation. It is ironic that I couldn’t get indie products for so long and now I might have access to makeup that my friends in the US can’t!

I hope that this post will still be helpful all the same.

-Lili ❤

Hourglass Swan Palette and Dusk Quad Reviews

Posted on September 18, 2025 by ghekate

Today’s post will be a review of the Swan Palette and Dusk Quad, plus I will show some mock ups of the DIY custom palettes I’m considering making using the Ambient Lighting Powders.

I already reviewed the Fox Palette, so if you wish to see more details about that one, please click HERE.

If you’d like to see even older Hourglass Palettes, I have a list HERE with the links to all of them.

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Edit – Unlocked- Swan (in Deer Packaging)

The Swan Palette comprises of Color Palette 2, generally known to be geared towards those with medium skin. I will admit the reason I bought another palette after Fox was because I could not let that beautiful Deer Packaging go. I like the original Swan design, but I felt an even stronger pull towards the Deer. So, I needed to put something inside it. I contemplated going for the Fox color story again, but I thought it might be more helpful for review purposes for me to choose Swan’s Color Palette 2 and see just how many shades I could get away with using. Plus, the blushes all looked pretty. So that’s what I did, and it’s not the first time either! I own the Owl Palette from 2023 that holds the Leopard color story, and I’ve gotten a surprising amount of use out of it!

DIM LIGHT (Finishing Powder) – This is one of the most frequently repeated shades among the Ambient Edit palettes, but thankfully only my second time getting it. It’s the lightest finishing powder Hourglass makes that I can pull off if I use it lightly, and if I’ve stayed out of the sun enough. At the moment, it’s a bit too light for me to wear with my regular foundations, but I have been successful in using it to lighten some of my foundations that are too dark or too orange right now.

In my review of the Fox palette, I mentioned that the quality seems better than it has been in the last few years. The powders feel softer and less dry. Out of curiosity, I felt my older Dim Light Powder from the Leopard Palette compared to the newer one, and this year’s feels the tiniest bit silkier. When I swatch them, the shades are identical, but when I rub them into my skin, I can see slightly more of a cast from the older powder. I hope my photo helps, but it’s a bit difficult to try and demonstrate the results from a sheer finishing powder on the skin.

This change probably won’t make much difference on someone with a light skin tone, but it works out better for me. Realistically though, I’m going to stick to using Eternal Light or Desert Light instead. So, Dim Light might be ignored by me when I open this palette.

GOLDEN HOUR (Highlighter) – This is a new shade for Hourglass and I feel it is one of the more refined highlighters they’ve made. There’s no avoiding that this is quite beaming, but it doesn’t look as crazy on me as I expected. In swatches, it is clear that Golden Hour is lighter than Divine Strobe Light, but it blends into my skin so well that I feel I can pull off Golden Hour even better.

Darker highlighters are obviously going to look better on me, so I don’t foresee myself using Golden Hour very much. However, it’s nice that I could if I wanted to. Since the quality is great, I think most people who like intense highlighters will be happy with this one.

*This photo demonstrates my best efforts at applying a sheer amount of Golden Hour to make it work. It is incredibly easy for it to look beaming and intense if that’s what I wanted.*

NATURAL BRONZE (Bronzer) – It’s no surprise that this doesn’t work for me as a bronzer. I can just barely see a cool-toned tinge on my skin in person (it’s invisible in photos). Hourglass finishing powders can be used as bronzer, so the reverse is true as well. However, because Natural Bronze leaves a slight grey tone on me, I cannot use it for either purpose. I’m fine with that considering it’s the only truly unusable powder for me out of six.

One of the complaints a lot of people with a lighter skin tone have is that Hourglass bronzers tend to lean too warm/orange. So, I wonder if this particular color will make the majority of customers happy. It is apparently not a new shade, but I don’t know where else it has been.

LUMINOUS CORAL (Blush) – I really like this color! It is a little darker than Ethereal Flush, and warmer than Coral Haze, which makes it my favorite of Hourglass’ coral blush shades! It’s vivid enough to pop on my cheeks without looking clownish and it doesn’t require too much effort building it up.

SUNSET FLUSH (Blush) – This blush has the Nars Orgasm effect on me: a slight tinge of pink may be seen when I face forward, but a gold sheen is all that shows when I turn my head towards the light. I could use this as a highlighter, but I prefer how it looks as a blush topper for Luminous Coral and Mauve Fusion.

MAUVE FUSION (Blush) – Although this blush is lighter than Amethyst Haze from the Fox Palette, it has enough pigment to look extremely bold with enough layers and a dense brush. In swatches, Mauve Fusion looks fuchsia-pink and Amethyst Haze looks magenta-pink. On my cheeks, Mauve Fusion looks like a normal pink blush. I still think it’s pretty, and between the two, I do think Mauve Fusion looks the most purple on my cheeks. However, I find Mood Flush to look like a truer mauve. Perhaps Mauve Fusion will look different on other people with a different undertone than mine (and a different ratio of color marbling in the blush).

Overall, the Swan Palette colors work pretty well for me. Luminous Coral and Golden Hour were my favorites, but Luminous Coral, Sunset Flush, and Mauve Fusion combined are the real standouts.

As much as I like this palette, I don’t love any of the powders enough to say that I’d have been missing out if I skipped getting Swan. However, I don’t regret my purchase when the goal was to have Deer Packaging, and I ended up with five usable products to boot.

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Edit Quad – Dusk

As you might already know, Hourglass released five curated quads in May 2025, plus the option for US-only customers to choose 4 out of 24 Ambient Lighting powders to put in a custom quad.
In my Window Shopping Hourglass post, I said the smartest move would be for me to wait and see if any of the shades I want will end up in one of the deeper holiday palettes I planned to buy anyway. This was my plan, but I kept thinking about the Hourglass Barney’s Volume III Palette that had my two most sought after shades (Lucid Glow and At Night in the “edit” size), and how it was never restocked. So, that compelled me to get the Dusk Palette in its final restock, which sold out a minute after I ordered it. Considering At Night did not make it into this year’s holiday palettes, I really don’t regret my decision. Plus, I got a discount on it.

I’ve had this quad for quite a while, but I figured the start of the holidays would be the best time to review it.

SUBLIME FLUSH (Blush) – I knew this blush would look cool-toned on me, and potentially ashy. Sometimes this shade doesn’t look too bad on me if I mix it with other blushes, but it’s really not for me.

MOOD FLUSH (Blush) – I have to build up this color quite a bit, but I love this blush. It’s a duplicate shade for me, as I already own and depotted one out of the Sculpture Quad, but that just means I can keep one in two different custom palettes of my own making.

OASIS GLOW (Blush) – I knew the chances were high that I couldn’t use this as a blush on my skin tone. I wanted this shade as a subtle highlighter, and that’s exactly how I’ve been able to use it.

AT NIGHT (Blush) – I own this in the full-size, but wanted it in the smaller Ambient Edit size to be able to put it in custom palettes. I love the one that came in the Dusk Quad because I have a larger section of deep red marbling, making it easier to get more of that dark color and less of the tan-beige color. This means it’s even deeper and requires less building up, so I’m very pleased.

I have been content to leaving this quad as is, as a blush/highlighter palette. However, with the additions of Fox and Swan, I’m feeling even more of an impulse to rearrange one or even two Ambient Edit Palettes!

Have I Achieved Creating the Perfect Palette Yet?

**2015** – Ambient Lighting Edit Palette, **2016** – Surreal Light Ambient Lighting Edit Palette, **2017** – Ambient Lighting Edit Volume 3 Palette, **2018** – Ambient Lighting Edit Volume 4 Palette and Unlocked Ambient Lighting Edit Palette, **2019** – Ghost Ambient Lighting Edit and Ghost Ambient Lighting Blush Quad, **2020** – Sculpture Ambient Lighting Edit Palette and Sculpture Ambient Lighting Edit Quad, **2021** – Ambient Lighting Edit Universe and Ambient Lighting Edit Universe Unlocked, **2022** – Butterfly, Elephant, and Tiger Ambient Lighting Edit Unlocked, **2023** – Jellyfish, Leopard, and Snake Ambient Lighting Edit Unlocked, **2024** – Dragon, Evil Eye, and Lotus Ambient Lighting Edit Unlocked, **2025** – Deer, Horse, Swan, and Fox Ambient Lighting Edit Unlocked.

With this year’s launch (and my purchase of the Dusk quad), I have procured nearly every shade from Hourglass that I’ve wanted from the beginning of the launch of these palettes until now. Iridescent Coral is the only one missing, but it would likely be another highlighter shade on me, so I’m giving up on it.

I have experience depotting and rearranging these myself, which is great considering the brand still hasn’t made that option available to those outside of the US. I could continue to wait for this to happen, but there’s no telling when they will roll it out internationally, when they will use 6-pan palettes instead of quads, whether the palettes will be made of tin instead of plastic (which is more ideal for depotting without ruining the packaging). So, I am feeling a bit impatient when I see that creating my perfect palette is now within reach! My biggest obstacle at this point would just be procuring the right magnets and trying to depot the powders old-school style without my Z-Potter.

Below is a mock up of the first concept palette I decided upon, which I gave the name Panda for no reason other than to wish it into existence. I’d love a Panda design in next year’s Hourglass Palettes!

CONCEPT PALETTE: “PANDA”

Eternal Light (Finishing Powder) – Lotus, Permanent Shade
Solar Glow (Highlighter) – Fox
At Night (Blush) – Dusk Quad, Permanent Shade
Mood Flush (Blush) – Sculpture and Dusk Quad
Mystic Flush (Blush) – Snake
Solar Bronze (Bronzer) – Snake

When it comes to choosing the best shades for me, as a person with a medium-deep skin tone, I think I’d put Eternal Light in any palette to be on the safe side of working for me, but Desert Light poses a very tempting second option.

There are plenty of pretty highlighters from Hourglass that I can make work, but the newest one from Fox is the clear winner. Solar Glow would be in any version of my ultimate palette, but if I made a second custom palette, there are a few blushes I use as highlighters that I’ve come to enjoy enough to put in the running.

My two bronzer contenders are Solar Bronze and Solar Fusion with one being my best shade match and the other being similar to that with an added sheen. At times, Solar Fusion will be too light, so the Solar Bronze would need to be in my alpha palette (Panda).

At Night is one of my favorite blush shades of all time, so a perfect palette would be incomplete without it. Mood Flush is typically my second favorite. It works alone as a subtle blush, but also pairs well with At Night. Mystic Flush is the most pigmented and easy to blend of the medium-dark pinks, so that’s typically my third blush option, but Sunset Glow is such a similar color that I go back and forth as to which I like more.

Desert Flush, Luminous Coral, and Ethereal Flush are the next ones that grab my attention the most from the blush swatch photo in the Luminous Coral review section. Truth be told, I haven’t been wearing Desert Flush because I’ve gotten more sun this year and that shade is really only usable for me when my skin is at its lightest. Luminous Coral is brand new, so I’m not fully committed to moving it around. Ethereal Flush is one that I keep forgetting about since it’s in my palette with lighter shades (Owl).

Speaking of lighter shades, Mood Exposure also shows up as a solo blush, depending on the time of year, but I also like using it to calm down punchier blush shades. So, I could see myself adding it to a custom palette as well.

Mood Exposure on the cheeks.

It wasn’t until this week that I started to question whether I should put all of my favorite Hourglass blush shades into one palette considering At Night and Mystic Flush can sometimes look alike. I need to have blush variety, but the colors should be the ones I wear most often. I considered placing Canyon Heat instead of Mystic Flush for the greater difference between shades, but ultimately left it as is.

The more I look at the Panda Concept, the more interested I am in making it.

CONCEPT PALETTE: “RABBIT”

Mood Exposure (Blush) – 5 Holiday Palettes, Permanent Shade
Lucid Glow (Blush as Highlighter) – Fox, Ghost Quad, Sunset Quad, Barney’s Volume III
Desert Light (Finishing Powder) – Fox
Luminous Coral (Blush) – Swan
Canyon Heat (Blush) – Fox
Bronze Fusion (Bronzer) – Fox

Since Desert Light and Bronze Fusion were close to matching my top picks, and Luminous Coral is the best of the corals, I decided to create a second mock up called “Rabbit.” The majority of shades in this one are from Fox, and while I might’ve been content to leave that palette as-is, rearranging them might help me get even more use out of them.

Lucid Glow and Oasis Glow are my top two blush-as-highlighter products from Hourglass, but Lucid Glow has more shimmer impact, so it won out. I did contemplate putting Infinite Strobe Light, but it’s just easier to keep Lucid Glow within the Fox Palette to minimize the amount of depotting I have to do.

For a similar reason, I’m leaving in Canyon Heat. It’s too new for me to know if it can top my other favorite blushes, but I’m still looking to have variety. This is the best of the oranges.

I could use Mood Flush a second time, since I have two now, or Sunset Glow to act as a duplicate for Mystic Flush, but I want to see how well this arrangement can do first.

It’s a little ironic that Mauve Fusion and Amethyst Haze didn’t make it into either of my theoretical custom palettes, considering they were the two blushes I was the most excited to see this year. They both have the potential to rise up the ranks though. I just need more time with them.

At this point, I can finally say that I don’t need additional Hourglass powders. I have all the shades I want. However, it’s not even about the powders anymore. I enjoy collecting them and whether I end up loving or hating the offerings, it’s one of the most exciting makeup events of the year for me to talk about with other makeup lovers. So, as long as the brand doesn’t do anything cancel-worthy next year, I will likely buy another palette. I will just try my hardest to limit it to one and not two!

That’s all for today! Thank you for reading!

-Lili ❤

Lili's Beauty Blog

Swatches, Reviews, and Articles Revolving Around the Cosmetics Industry

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Hourglass Swan Palette and Dusk Quad Reviews

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