MAC Metamorphosis Face and Eye Palette

If you’re already familiar with my blog and my interests, you’ll know right away that I wanted this palette for the packaging. I love how the design appears to be a simple, yet pretty, black and white drawing until it is turned at different angles in the light, revealing all the colors of the rainbow.

MAC’s face and cheek products have always been among my favorites in my makeup collection, but I tend to be unimpressed by their eyeshadows. The last palette I tried from MAC was the Lunar Luck Made My Fortune Eyeshadow Palette from 2022. Since then, the brand has reformulated their eyeshadows. I hear they perform better than before, but I was unwilling to take that chance until now.

Technically, the latest single eyeshadow I’ve tried from MAC has been their Jelly Shine Eyeshadow, but it’s a new formula for them. So, I couldn’t use that as a gauge for whether or not I’d enjoy their standard eyeshadows.

Frankly, I can’t consider this palette an example of what MAC’s primary eyeshadow formula is like either because these are so different from anything I’ve previously experienced from them! To start with, these don’t feel like traditional powder eyeshadows. They all have a very slick and smooth feel to the touch that’s prevalent in dimethicone-heavy formulas.
Daft Pink, Lavender Lemonade, and Cherry Sangria in particular are more pliable as if they’re slightly stiffer Colourpop Super Shocks. Lavender Lemonade is the closest to having a Super Shock consistency because it’s the one that’s easy to push and move around.
On the box, it’s written that the ingredients for Cherry Sangria and Daffodillionaire are supposed to be the same, and that Daft Pink, Hot Honey, Lavender Lemonade and Calypso Coral are the same. Considering the fact that I find Daffodillionaire, Hot Honey, and Calypso Coral to be the firmer ones instead, I cannot fathom why the slippery, yet more solidly pressed, eyeshadow is in the same category as the looser goopier one. The photo below shows how messy this gets after just one day.

I have to thank Nikki for pointing out that other than Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, this palette and MAC’s Shadeshift Chrome Eyeshadow formula seem to be the same.

What I found from checking a few ingredient lists on MAC’s website (which tend to be incomplete), is that the formula with the second-most ingredients in common to these are the Jelly Shine eyeshadows with 6 out of 13 shared. However, the Jelly Shine are still much more similar to MAC’s standard shimmer/metallic formula than the ones in the Metamorphosis Palette with around 12 out of 17 in common.

These eyeshadows are pigmented, but they blend out in such a way that I get some translucency and can see my skin underneath. I can build them up to be opaque if I want, but it takes a lot more effort with a brush. This formula is much more suited to finger-application.
Since none of these are matte, I instinctively want to apply them to my eyes with my fingers anyway. The problem is that the smallest petal-shaped pans are more difficult to get into. Plus, the blush type of shades (Hot Honey and Cherry Sangria) can look a bit patchy in the first layers with a brush, so the issue is exacerbated if I try to apply those to my cheeks with my fingers. The Singe Beauty FO-3 and Rephr LC02 are small cheek brushes, but I still have to be careful about accidentally picking up some of the neighboring eyeshadows.

Daffodillionaire is my kind of highlighter shade, so I was pleased to know it suits me on my face and eyes. Even though these are buildable formulas that can be sheered out, I imagine this would be too dark for those with lighter skin and too warm for those with a cool undertone.
On my eyes, it’s just light enough to add brightness. On my face, it draws more attention to texture, but the lack of shimmer makes it still fairly smooth looking for a highlighter.

Hot Honey is easy to see on my eyes, but the color tone doesn’t stand out as vividly on my cheeks. I like this though, because too many orange blushes are bold and unnatural looking on me. That being said, I still prefer a flush of pink, so I either skip using this shade as blush altogether or I mix it with Calypso Coral.

Daft Pink is an iridescent type of pink, along with being more topper-like than the other shades. It takes more effort to build it up on my eyes, and especially as a highlighter on my cheeks. This shade looks quite pretty paired with Calypso Coral, but if I add enough layers to see the color and have the shine from it stand out more than the amount Calypso Coral already has, then I start to notice a slightly frosty white cast on my skin.

Calypso Coral has a sheer quality to it that requires multiple layers, but over-applying this dark color will result in it looking too intense and metallic as well. So, finding that balance every time for blush usage can be a challenge. I have a similar problem with it showing up on my eyes, and though wetting my brush serves to make it easier to deposit the product, it doesn’t do much intensifying. When I accidentally covered some of Calypso Coral with Hot Honey on my eyes, it was very difficult to get that red tone back, as there is a maximum to how many layers can be built on each other. A wet brush helped, but not a lot.

Lavender Lemonade is the other topper-style shade, but it has more pigment than Daft Pink. Because it’s a light purple with blue-purple shimmer, I find it to be the most interesting pan of product in the palette. This and Cherry Sangria are the only ones I’d use exclusively as eyeshadows, and not face products, which is probably why MAC chose to put them in the smaller pans. I could see this being a cool highlighter for someone who likes more adventurous or avant garde type of looks. The official MAC website has some intriguing spring-inspired editorial looks that I might want to recreate when it’s actually spring time, but not right now.

I like Cherry Sangria as a deepening shade for the outer corner in eye looks. It’s easier for me to use my finger with this as an eyeshadow, but when I’ve tried to wear it as eyeliner, it took too many passes over the lash lines with a dry liner brush. So, I go in right away with a damp brush to save time.

Wearing Hot Honey and Calypso Coral on my cheeks makes me think about how I really should start using my MAC Extra Dimension Blushes again. The Extra Dimension ones give more color payoff quicker, and have a similar amount of shine. However, the Metamorphosis shades have a subtler look overall because the consistency is creamier and blends better into my foundation. The reflect isn’t a natural-looking glow, but it looks better blended into my skin.
The Metamorphosis pigment level reminds me a bit of MAC’s discontinued Sheertone Shimmer Blush formula, but those had a more obvious powder look even if the shades themselves were more muted and less opaque.

I get at least six hours of wear time for the Metamorphosis products on my cheeks and eyes before the fading starts. It holds up better on my eyes if I use an eyeshadow primer, but I just accept that my makeup is going to look more muted before the day is over.
Also, at some point in the day, the product will be missing from the inner part of my crease line.

So, this doesn’t have the best longevity. The shades still need to be built up on me. I have to use specific brushes or dig my fingers in the pans, and it’s inevitable that I will dirty the outer rim and the edges that divide the shades. Despite these inconveniences, I’m happy with this product!

Typically, I don’t find spring collections to be appealing because light shades, especially pastels, are difficult for me to pull off. Springs shades also tend to be in cool or neutral tones, similar to the kind of spring looks I did in my Wedding Makeup post. However, there were enough warm shades in the Metamorphosis Palette, and deeper colors, to make me feel like this is actually suited to me. I thought for sure that the face and eye aspect would be a gimmick, but this really is quite versatile. I don’t think it’s going to be great for everyone, but maybe others will appreciate that it’s a little different from what is typically released for spring.

I had an unredeemed birthday discount code from Douglas (in January), so I figured it would be a nice gift to myself. I know for sure that I’m only going to reach for this palette in the winter to spring set of months, but I’ve never regretted getting the first set of Oden’s Eye holiday palettes that I now only really use in the month of December. That’s still more attention than I give plenty of other palettes in my makeup collection!

I hope this review has been helpful! Thank you for reading!

-Lili

Victoria Beckham Beauty Orchid Eye Wardrobe (First Impression)

I’ve been working on a Victoria Beckham Beauty brand review (coming in March or April), but today’s post is a quick demonstration of the new Orchid palette in action, along with swatches.

For a more detailed and thorough review, please keep an eye out for that upcoming VB Beauty post.

Victoria Beckham Beauty Eye Wardrobe in Orchid

I imagine the Satin Kajal Liner in the shade Orchid would pair very well with this palette, but Fig is the type of color I would wear more often, so I bought that instead.

I have swatches for those curious how similar or not the shimmer eyeshadow from the Orchid Palette is compared to the Tea Rose Lid Lustre. Tea Rose has more purple compared to Shade 4, which is more of a Rose Gold.

I may as well share swatches of all the kajals I own, but the review for them will be in that upcoming post.

I’ve talked about the brand’s shipping in the past, which has always been fast. This time was ridiculously quick! I placed my order on Tuesday, just one hour after the V-Suite email came in, and my parcel arrived at 9 am the next day! That’s just 25 hours!
Because it arrived so fast and I just got hit with a cold today, I wanted to get these pictures and post them as fast as possible while I still have energy. Otherwise, I probably would not have been able to post this for a long time.

So, that’s everything for today! I just wanted to take the time to thank the person who used my referral link from my previous VBB post. In addition to them getting 20% off, I was able to get this order of the refill and two kajals discounted for 20% off too! So, thank you very much!

For those wondering what I’m talking about, clicking my referral link gives customers 20% off their first order of $75 or more. If you’re not interested in this method, the brand also offers 15% off for signing up to their emails. I used the code HELLO15 in the past, but my internet searches say at some point WELCOME15 and/or GLOW15 worked as well.

Thank you to everyone else who visits/follows this blog. I’m honored that you take the time to read my posts and I hope they continue to be helpful!

-Lili

Sweed Beauty Brand Review: 5 Bestsellers Tested

I heard great things about all of the products I purchased from Sweed Beauty, but it’s hard to know what is truly a “bestseller” considering the brand put nearly every product they make on their bestsellers page! It’s pretty much just their full range of false lashes and their makeup brushes that are excluded.

Everyday Sunshine, Allfeisty, and Kackie Reviews Beauty are the only influencers I follow that talk about the brand, but none of them are anywhere close to my skin tone. Since it was extremely difficult for me to find anyone darker than tan using Sweed products, I figured sharing my photos and thoughts on the products could be helpful.
And for those living in Germany, I’ve found Sweed products on Niche-Beauty, Douglas, and Flaconi retail sites.

Side Note: I linked videos for each creator, but Kackie’s is just a lip product. I could have sworn she has talked about the mascara, foundation, and blush before. She’s the one I attribute to making me the most interested in the Glass Skin Foundation in particular, and she’s the reason I kept being curious about Sweed, but I can’t find the videos on her page. Now, I feel like I’m gaslighting myself and could be confusing Sweed with Thrive, whose products have a similar color scheme.

Working my way from the makeup I like the least to the ones I like most, let’s begin with the foundation.

Glass Skin Foundation in 11 Deep W

This shade is described as having a warm red undertone, but it looks quite yellow. Even though I always try to grab a yellow or golden foundation, the strength of that yellow is too much for me. It doesn’t help that it’s too light for me as well.

In the straight-on face photo, the half of my face without foundation looks a little redder because I had just scrubbed off makeup that I was previously wearing.

I feared shade 12 Deep N/W would be too neutral despite being described as having neutral to warm yellow undertones. Frankly, I’m not convinced that any of the shades would work for me. Between the model photos (in which 11 is too light and 12 is too dark and red), the computer generated-looking arm swatches that all appear ashy on the darker arm, the liquid swatches that even 12 looks too light, and the real swatches on the hand that is ironically missing shades 11 and 12, I had no way of knowing which one to go by.
Shade 11 had the greater discounted price between 11 and 12, so I let that be my guide.

The shade match being wrong isn’t the only reason it looks mask-like. Despite the thin and watery consistency of the foundation, it doesn’t spread as wide and easily as I expected. I had to put more on to cover my whole face. Perhaps I could get it to apply thinner and more evenly if I used a beautyblender, but I couldn’t bring myself to try additional steps since I think having the wrong shade would leave me dissatisfied no matter what. This is called the “Glass Skin” foundation, but the finish appears satin-like to me instead of wet, shiny, or truly glassy. It’s supposed to be suited for every skin type, but I disagree.

One positive aspect is that this dries down on my dry skin without requiring powder and there is very little transfer. Overall though, I don’t plan to use this foundation ever again and I wouldn’t purchase another shade if there was an expansion.
I didn’t know it at the time, but apparently customers can send photos of themselves in daylight to the brand’s email address info@sweedbeauty.com or Instagram DMs for advice with shade matching. Hopefully this will help.

The Bronzing Powder in Tan

Fans of baked gelee products will probably enjoy the texture and performance of this bronzer as much as I do. It instantly reminded me of the contour shade from Dior’s Contour & Glow Duo in 200 Diorama, Nabla’s Skin Bronzing, the Hatice Schmidt Bronzer, and from Kess. All of these products were made in Italy as well.

This is a skin-like bronzer with subtle luminosity. It’s buildable, to the point that I can at least see it on myself in person, but I cannot get it to show easily in photos. I’ve tried on three different occasions to photograph myself wearing it, and the best one is below.

Tan is the darkest of the two colors that Sweed offers and I have used so much product trying to build up that shade, that I can faintly see a dip in the pan after only a few months of sporadic use. It looks more used than the other bronzers in the photo above despite it actually containing the most amount of product at 10 grams.

The Tan shade has a little bit of a red undertone, but it looks neutral on me most of the time until I build it up as intensely as it can get.

I have no issues with blending or fading. It’s a great product. I love bronzers that have this kind of formula, but an airbrushed and blurred type of finish can outrank them. With the exception of the Nabla Skin Bronzing product (which is significantly less expensive but also harder pressed), 35 is about the standard price for a baked gelee or gel-powder hybrid type of bronzer. However, 50 is usually the starting price for the type of powder bronzer that actually blurs and is finely milled enough for me to call it the best of the best in my collection (Hermes, Charlotte Tilbury, Victoria Beckham, and so on). Even the most bronzer-obsessed person might be unwilling to spend that kind of money, so the hybrid formulas present an alternative option that still tends to be fantastic quality.

Sweed’s bronzer is $45 in the US and 45 at full price in Germany. I find that to be a little high, but I guess it can still be justified. I must admit that due to the preferred undertone and depth of the Hatice Schmidt bronzer, I prefer it over the Sweed one, and it’s conveniently 10 lower in price for 8.5 grams. Although I can recommend this as a good product, I have to acknowledge that better prices and more shade options for similar formulas of bronzer exist.

Air Blush Cream in Fancy Face

This blush has faint gold shimmer throughout, which gives the barest hint of luminosity to the cheeks. The surface of the blush feels a little creamy to the touch, but it feels completely dry on my face, as if I applied a pure powder product. It fully sets on my skin, and how long-lasting it is depends on whether or not I used specific skincare or foundation that left my skin feeling dewy. If so, then the blush starts to fade as quickly as 5-6 hours. Otherwise, on a drier base, the blush lasts a minimum of 8 hours.

Fancy Face is the darkest shade they have at the time that I’m writing this. I like to apply this blush subtly, so it doesn’t look very intense on me in the photos I take. However, it still isn’t that dark in my arm swatch. This shade is buildable, and might still work on someone within the deep skin category, but it could be ashy on someone with a rich skin tone.

Although the Sweed Blush is firmer in the pan than the Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Matte Bouncy Blush, both leave a similar finish on the skin. It’s that blurry dimethicone-matte type of look that’s become increasingly popular over the years, especially in the K-Beauty realm.

The edge that Sweed has over Rare Beauty is that tiniest bit more glow. However, it’s not radiant enough for me to be satisfied. It still looks more matte than I like, so I have to use a hydrating spray with both. Rare Beauty’s blushes are more pigmented, but apply just as smoothly. They are longer lasting and their range has more dark-skin friendly options at the price of €28 for 6.4 grams of product as opposed to Sweed’s €34 for 5 grams. The US prices are $27 vs $35. So, even if Sweed expands the range, I don’t think I’ll buy anymore. It’s not due to a lack of quality and is purely about my preferences.

Cloud Mascara in Black

This is a bit difficult to review because I know that mascara formulas can change over time. Within a few weeks or months it can become drier and harder to use. In some cases it can start off too wet, but drying over time makes it work better. They can clump more or flake more.
Essentially, how I feel about a mascara in the beginning can differ within a month or two, but I only used the Cloud Mascara for about two to three weeks prior to beginning to use the brand’s eyelash serum. The photos above were taken prior to using any lash serum and it was probably my third time wearing the mascara.

In the beginning, I thought this mascara worked fine, but I didn’t love it. It took me a while to realize that I couldn’t get as far trying to build up a very heavy first coat like I do with the majority of my favorite mascaras. Waiting for it to fully dry before adding a second coat sometimes led to it being unevenly built up, spidery, and sometimes I’d get a few clumps.

What works best for me is to build up the first layer of one set of eyelashes, repeat the process on the other eye, and by the time I’m finished I can add a second layer to my first eye before it has time to fully dry down. The end result is much more to my satisfaction and can be viewed in my Isamaya Core 1.0 Palette post, which I used the Cloud Mascara exclusively in all of the eyeshadow looks. I had been using the lash serum between 3-4 weeks when I took the pictures, but I didn’t observe any improvement from the lash serum that early. So, I feel like it’s still a good representation of the mascara’s best results on me without additional help.

This is the type of mascara that’s on the wet side, but not too wet. Since mascaras are recommended to be tossed out every 3-6 months (whether I do so or not), I only judge one by its performance up to that 3 month mark because additional changes could just be the start of it going bad. I can say that I have noticed zero differences in formula consistency within those three months.

I don’t get clumping (when I use my specific technique) and I haven’t spotted any flaking. One of the things I especially like is that my lashes don’t feel stiff after I apply the mascara. If I get an itch, I can rub my lashes with the side of my finger or nail and my lashes are still fairly soft. Many other mascaras give me a tugging sensation at the root of my lashes when I do the same thing.

The brand advertises this to be both a volumizing and lengthening mascara that keeps lashes separated and fan-like. I agree that it’s very good at separation and it adds decent volume, but my current favorites give me more length.

After completing the full round of lash serum, I definitely like how the mascara looks even more.

However, I feel like I shouldn’t factor that into my review of the mascara. Based on how it looked prior to the lash serum’s effects being visible, I can’t say that this mascara was worth €28 for me, even though it contains Panthenol (Vitamin B5) which, “improves elasticity and helps reduce breakage.” I got this mascara on sale for €21 (a little over $24), but I’m still uncertain if I will repurchase it or not. I don’t know how much of an effect the panthenol may or may not have had an impact on my lashes not breaking off. My gut tells me this mascara is overhyped. I like it, but I feel much stronger about my other mascara favorites.

If I end up changing my mind on this, I’ll update this post.

Eyelash Growth Serum – 3ml size

I owned the other Sweed products since September 2025, but I bought this serum at the end of October. Since it’s supposed to take at least 4-6 weeks for results, I decided to push back the release date for this review until I had tested it thoroughly.

I have been afraid of lash serums since the GrandeLash lawsuit when I learned about prostaglandin analogs, ingredients that are in the majority of eyelish serums and are listed under a ton of different names. I was too scared of the potential iris and eye skin darkening, eye irritation, and other side effects, to ever use one. The fact that Sweed’s serum does not contain any prostaglandin analogs is the only reason I was willing to give it a try.

Before we get into the review, I wanted to point out that the directions on the box just say, “Apply directly with a single stroke to the base of the upper eyelash.” I felt like there had to be more to it, so I watched videos of people applying it, and some put it so close to the lash line that some of it got onto their actual eyelashes. The instructions on the website stated, “Apply with the product’s applicator, using one stroke on your eyelid just above your upper lash line. Apply by starting from the outer to inner corner of the upper lash line.”

I believe the guidelines I should be most inclined to follow is on the official Sweed website. So, that is what I did after the third week, because it took me that long to look it up. I had just been following the information on the box.

At the 4 week mark, it appeared as if my eyelashes that fell were a little longer than usual, but I couldn’t see much difference on my eyes overall.
By 6 weeks, I definitely noticed fullness of my lash line. My eyelashes didn’t look longer, but they weren’t as sparse, even in my problem section of my inner lashes.
By 8 weeks, I realized my lashes were a lot more curled up, which is why I hadn’t noticed they were longer than before.
After 10 weeks, it became clear to me that the outer half of my lashes were fuller than ever and looked slightly longer than the years when my natural eyelash growth was at its peak. However, from 8 weeks and on, I accepted the fact that my natural lashes aren’t dark enough and are too curled to look long while bare. When I close one eye and look sideways, I can see how long my eyelashes are, but looking straightforward, the effects of the lash serum can’t be seen until I put on mascara.

I still wish to have more fullness in the inner lash region, but I am pleased with the improvement. Part of the difficulty for my inner lash region is the fact that I frequently rub my eyes, especially before bedtime which is when I apply the serum. I’m not sure where I heard or read the information to apply it at night. The directions on the website merely state to use this once a day without a specific time. Anyway, when I rub my eyes, I basically remove whatever lingering bit of serum hadn’t yet absorbed in my inner corners.

These are the results, with and without mascara, at the 8 week mark.

Although my eyelashes didn’t get crazy long, I can see how many more lashes stand above my crease line with mascara on compared to before. I don’t lose my eyelashes as frequently either.

The directions state to use the serum daily for 4-6 weeks, and then switch to using it 2-3 times a week for maintenance. After the initial six weeks, I continued to use it more or less on a daily basis until after the 8th week. Then, I lowered the usage to every other day or two. As for my bottom eyelashes, I have not noticed a difference, but I didn’t expect any considering I did not apply the lash serum there and the serum is not recommended for that.

The photos above are not the best representation of my mascara favorites since I had them for far too long and the last bits of mascara left in the tubes are partly dried up. However, I think my lashes still looked great!

I managed my expectations and got enough results to be happy with this product. My issue trying to regain the fullness I used to have was resolved. This product is supposed to last 3 months* and my eyelashes will return to normal if I halt using it for one month.

*I’ve been using this at a rate of around 2 months daily and 1 month every few days, yet my tube hasn’t run out. So perhaps the estimate of 3 months is if someone used it daily during that whole time or perhaps the 3 months is a minimum of how long it’ll take before the serum runs out.

This is not a cheap product. It’s sold for $55 in the US or €49 in Germany for 3ml. The 5ml tube is frequently out of stock and costs €70. I bought my 3ml at a discounted price via Flaconi for €33. At that price, I do like it enough to repurchase it considering it’s as much as a high end mascara and it makes all my mascaras look even better. A regular eyelash primer might give me even longer lashes, but it wouldn’t solve my fullness/sparse lash issues. So, I will most likely continue to make repurchases at the lower price.

I highly recommend watching Abbey Yung’s video for those curious about the serum’s ingredients, understanding how it works differently to traditional lash serums, and seeing her own results.

Overall, I have a positive impression of Sweed’s products. Their makeup is very high quality, but some of the products don’t match my specific preferences, and the shade range is a bit lacking. So, I will continue to keep an eye on this brand’s new launches and I’ll potentially purchase from them again in the future.

I hope this post has been helpful to you! Thanks for stopping by and reading!

-Lili

My Top 5 Favorite Indie Brands for Eyeshadows

Clionadh Cosmetics

I’ve loved Clionadh Cosmetics eyeshadows from the moment I first tried them at the start of 2020. Their Stained Glass Collection is ever growing, and it’s their claim to fame for good reason. Other brands have eyeshadows that use some of the same pigments and have the same shifts, but I have yet to see anyone replicate the slick “mirror finish” of the Jeweled Multichromes. I was never a big fan of iridescent eyeshadows because of the way they can look dusty and dry on my skin tone, but Clionadh thought about those with more melanin and created the Deep Iridescent Multichromes with different colored bases (instead of white) to fix this problem. They created Glitter and Dimensional Multichromes for people that adore having maximum, but still eye safe, sparkle. Vibrant and Electric Multichromes are for true color lovers. Earth Vibrant Multichromes are for those that prefer muted tones, but still want easy-to-see color shifts. There are even combination types such as Glitter-Vibrants and Hybrids.

Clionadh has multichromes to suit everyone’s tastes.

As I mentioned before, the brands get their multichrome pigments from basically the same place, but Clionadh has perfected the art of combining them with various base colors to create a decent amount of eyeshadows that haven’t been duped. So, there are still some that are completely unique colors.

There are some duochromes within the Stained Glass line, but they also exist in the “standard circle” format, along with more traditional shimmer eyeshadows. These are less expensive and I find them to still be very nice quality. The mattes weren’t perfect, but I still like them when they used to be sold individually.

The only reason I haven’t talked about Clionadh as much within the last year is because of the difficulty I have in getting products in Germany. Their website doesn’t collect VAT/taxes/customs, so DHL (who did the final part of the delivery) demanded exact cash payment in person (which included the missing VAT plus their fee), without letting me know the amount in advance. If I want to know ahead of time, I would have to pay the $42 (36 Euro) shipping option on top of the VAT and extra fees, which I just haven’t felt was worth the added costs. I hope Clionadh will work out some kind of deal with Monolith EU again, as that would certainly make things easier for me!

I have some Clionadh eyeshadows that are getting close to turning six years old. Some of them don’t feel quite as smooth and creamy, but they still perform beautifully and haven’t gone bad yet. I’ve had eyeshadows that didn’t even last beyond a year (admittedly mostly vegan eyeshadow formulas like from KVD, Urban Decay, Coloured Raine’s different formula, etc).
So, that makes me happy considering how expensive Clionadh eyeshadows can be. If you take four of Clionadh’s most expensive eyeshadows, it would be slightly more expensive than many luxury brand quads (but justifiable in price considering they’d be all multichromes).

Clionadh has a relatively small team, and I respect the fact that they make their eyeshadows in-house in Canada.

Oden’s Eye

Oden’s Eye is a favorite because they have every type of powder finish eyeshadow I could want: multichromes, duochromes, sparkly shimmers, smooth metallics, pastels, and just lots of colors in interesting tones. The variety is great and the quality is mostly good. Some palettes are randomly not as good, and I can’t explain why. For instance, I like the colors in Makeup Just For Fun’s palette, but the shadows were more powdery and the shimmers are thinner. I can only guess it’s due to what the creator requested of the formula. Fantasy Cosmetica has shimmers and mattes on par with Odens Eye, but I get 1 or 2 duds from the 9-pan palettes I’ve tried, which isn’t the case for my top 5 Odens Eye palettes. So, Fantasy Cosmetica ranks lower for that reason.

These shadows are also more suited for color lovers, but Oden’s Eye tries to appeal to neutral and color lovers by giving softer and non-grungy options sometimes within the palettes.

It’s a Swedish brand, but their eyeshadows are made in the PRC.

Fantasy Cosmetica

This is the brand I have the least experience with, as I only started buying their palettes in 2024. However, I love the color offerings among all the palettes and their theming. Even when they make brown shades, there’s nothing basic about them. They have very interesting tones. The Fighter Palette is a dream for those that prefer glam style neutral eyeshadows. Pat Mcgrath fans would probably like them, but the quality isn’t quite as refined as PML’s. The big price difference puts that in perspective!
Some of their eyeshadows/pressed pigments are ultra vibrant. They’re all pigmented and opaque shadows. Most of them blend well. I usually have at least one troubleshade shade in every palette, but it’s rarely one of the shadows I was looking forward to using anyway.
This brand does cater mostly to color-lovers, and they’re known for their intense shimmers, but I even like some of their smoother satin shades too. They find a way to make the toned down shadows appealing for me.

I believe these eyeshadows are made in the PRC.

Devinah Cosmetics

Devinah has my second favorite multichrome and duochrome formula, but their normal shimmers are just okay, which is why the brand doesn’t rank higher overall. Their mattes are also decent, but not the easiest to blend and use. In fact, they probably have the “worst” mattes of all the brands I’m mentioning in this post. However, they don’t make pre-made palettes, so customers can skip buying their mattes altogether.

I started purchasing from them in April 2020, and all but one eyeshadow (it’s a discontinued formula) is still in perfect condition. The performance, look, and feel of the shadows hasn’t changed. So, I can confirm mine have good preservatives in them!

It’s because of the fact that I had to acknowledge their multichromes and duochromes as coming second to Clionadh that I stopped buying from them in early 2022. However, to still maintain that number two spot is impressive. The custom palette I created with mostly Devinah shades has come with me on several trips and there are shades I’ve used in there even more frequently than Clionadh. So, if you live in the US and are dealing with the tariff situation, this could be a nice US-based brand to check out.

I don’t know if all of Devinah’s eyeshadows are made in-house, and if only some of their catalogue isn’t made in a lab, but I can confirm that at least the mattes are made by them.

Sydney Grace

Sydney Grace isn’t really in the multichrome game with powder eyeshadows, but they have a gigantic selection of standard shimmer eyeshadows in unique tones. They have many colorful sparkling eyeshadows, but the brand puts a lot of focus on natural/neutral and more muted types of shades. They also have a lot of satins that appeal to fans of luxury eyeshadows who prefer a smoother texture-friendlier look, but just crave more pigment than most luxury eyeshadows provide.
The Sydney Grace eyeshadows are pigmented, opaque, and also thick. I like my finished eye looks with them, but I tend to prefer my even more blingy, shiny, and exciting eyeshadows from other brands. Also, their mattes are pretty good. They are almost on the same level as Odens Eye, but Sydney Grace’s best mattes are typically in boring colors I can get from any brand. So, I tend to not use them.

Sydney Grace eyeshadows are made in the USA. I’m fairly sure they made their own eyeshadows and formula in the early days. I don’t know whether they have continued to make them in-house.


I have three honorable mentions.

For starters, Melt Cosmetics is technically an indie brand, but I have seen their products available at different retailers and they seem to be a much bigger business, so I have a hard time putting them in the same category. Considering how many huge sales I’ve seen in the last three years, and the lack of interest from among beauty lovers, I honestly wonder how long they will stay in business. In any case, the brand’s mattes are in my top 10 favorites. I love the colors, tones, pigment level, layerability and blendability. The shimmers are okay at best. They have such a big issue with mold or things growing on other people’s palettes that I always feel uncomfortable recommending the palettes, even though mine have been fine.

The second honorable mention is Kaleidos. I haven’t tried many of their palettes, but I loved the mattes in Club Nebula and Futurism 1: Sci-Fi Green. The shimmers are nice, but not super special. I can’t include them on the list because I haven’t tried any of their “newer” eyeshadows in the quad format, and it’s only recently that they launched their first new products in the last two years. So, it’s been quite a few years in total since I’ve been interested in their eyeshadows.

Terra Moons is an honorable mention mainly to address the fact that I’ve often said their multichromes are my third favorite formula. However, the normal shimmer and matte quality pulls them below being in my favorite indie brands. There is also the fact that I hardly use my Terra Moons shadows because I think to myself, “Why use these when I could use my Clionadh and Devinah?” So, I only use the shades I don’t have a close match for in the other brands, but then I think about how the eyeshadows made by the others are still good enough and I don’t need this unique one! The mattes I bought from Terra Moons are unique to my collection, but I wish the quality was better. So, I can’t call this brand a favorite if I don’t use them.

This isn’t an honorable mention, but I feel compelled to explain that I like Lethal Cosmetics a lot as a brand and I respect what they create. Their eyeshadow formula is a bit chunky. The multichromes are on the weaker side. The mattes are fine. I like the eyeshadows with uncommon tones, but I just don’t think about them often enough. I feel like I’ve moved on from their eyeshadow formulas.

So, this is my list! I hope this is helpful to fans of small independent businesses, and to anyone curious as to which brands to start with if you’re trying to move away from paying for mainstream eyeshadows.

This is one of the posts I’ve held as a backup. I have a lot going on in my personal life, plus with the holidays. So, this will likely be my last post of 2025. I wish you a happy holiday season and I hope to see you in the New Year!

-Lili

Discontinued and Limited Edition Products That Should Make A Comeback

Three years ago, I created a post called 10 Things I Purchased Purely For the Packaging. These were items I loved, even though in most cases I hadn’t even used the makeup inside.
My typical gauge for determining whether a product had been worth buying in the long run, is to calculate how frequently I use it. So, those items in the post should have fallen into the category of purchases I regretted, but they didn’t.

Keeping my Project Pan and Low Buys in mind, there have been so many times in my reviews this year that I’ve written, “I like this, but I could have skipped buying it,” or “this doesn’t add much to my collection.”
This has been my attempt to counterbalance some of the hype out there and help others feel less FOMO over things that aren’t as special in person. However, there are still products from time to time that I acknowledge as something I’m still glad I bought, even though I won’t get much use out of them.

My purpose for this post is to feature the products in my collection that are no longer available to purchase, but they had such good formulas that I wish everyone could have tried them. These are products that if I had a much smaller makeup collection, or if the shades were perfect, I probably could have hit pan on them.

Essentially, I want to focus on makeup that still brings me joy to own, even if I stopped using them today. In doing this, I hope it will serve as a reminder to myself of what kind of products ended up being worth it to me under different criteria.

I won’t be including items from defunct brands, or else Becca’s Skin Perfectors and Bite Beauty lipsticks would be on this list.

Armani Neo Nude Melting Color Balm BlushesOriginal Review

This launch is still one of the weirdest I’ve ever experienced. From Armani barely giving these any promotion, the consistency of each shade being different, one of the pans falling out, retailers getting only certain shades and them being added and removed within days from websites, etc.
However, the best formula (which was for Shade 30), was so creamy, blendable, and truly melted into the skin. The range of colors were subdued and natural, which is actually not as common to find, especially for those with dark skin.

Initially, I thought the reason Armani put hardly any effort into marketing these was because of a combination of formula production issues (Shade 60 was hard as a rock) and low inventory (not even Armani’s site ever had all nine in stock at the same time).
Upon reflection, these blushes were released around the same time as Suqqu’s Melting Powder Blushes, which the brand announced shortly after would be discontinued due to raw materials shortage.
The shades between Armani and Suqqu were not dupes, but at least close enough for me to notice similarities, not just with their names. They might not have been made by the same lab (Armani’s were made in Korea vs Suqqu’s in Japan), but perhaps they shared some of the same ingredients with sourcing issues.

It may be foolish, but I still have hope that Armani will reformulate these and bring them back. If they don’t, I am at least happy that I have a few in my collection as a reminder of this product’s strange place in makeup history!

Pat McGrath Skin Fetish: Ultra Glow Highlighter (Divine Rose) – Showcased Here

Excluding the Skin Fetish Sublime Skin Highlighter (aka The Hockey Puck), I have tried every Pat Mcgrath highlighter formula. The one above is the best they’ve ever made, but it was limited edition and only came in one shade.

There are a lot more baked gelee products available these days, so perhaps I should just be content with the few I have that are a better shade match for me. However, I think it’s normal for someone to want a holy grail product to be made by their favorite brand because it’s their favorite brand.

This may be a strange analogy, but if we put this in terms of Harry Potter (and let’s leave the conversation about JK Rowling aside), if someone gave me Hufflepuff merch, I would be happy because it’s something from the world of Harry Potter. If someone gave me Ravenclaw merch, I would be even happier and more excited because Ravenclaw is my favorite of the Houses within Harry Potter, so it has overall more value and meaning for me.
Even though I own Tom Ford’s Shade and Illuminate Highlighting Duo in Tanlight, which is super close to the quality and performance of Pat Mcgrath’s Divine Rose highlighter, I would still absolutely love my perfect shade to come from Pat Mcgrath. Not only was hers less expensive than Tom Ford’s, but it also comes in a compact I consider to be prettier. The other highlighters from PML are nice, but if someone asks me to recommend the most standout products from the brand, it wouldn’t be them. It’s a shame that their best highlighter formula could only be experienced by a small range of people. The current Pat Mcgrath highlighters are likely less expensive to make and they’re certainly easier for other brands to replicate.

Pat Mcgrath Baked Blushes (from the Bridgerton 2 Blushing Delights Blush + Highlighter Palette) – Original Review

I honestly believe the only reason this product flopped was because it came in bulky packaging. Even I felt the need to depot the blushes and highlighter!

What’s disappointing about us never getting additional blush shades, or even singles of the blushes, is that PML could have competed with Hourglass on the baked blush front. With the exception of At Night, I like PML’s Aphrodisia more than all of the Ambient Lighting ones from Hourglass. I continue to buy Hourglass holiday palettes each year because I like their baked products, so imagine if Pat Mcgrath gave us the kind of colors I am still itching for Hourglass to make, and in a gorgeous shimmery finish that I prefer. I would buy them so fast!

The Hourglass At Night blush is the only baked blush to make it into my Project Pan (of favorite products). The reason Aphrodisia didn’t is because I didn’t have it at the time. I left it in the US out of fear of breaking the delicate powder in my luggage. I also assumed PML’s baked blushes would eventually make a return in normal palettes or single form.
I’ve given up that dream by now, so I finally have Aphrodisia back with me (as of April 2025).
My reason for bringing this up is that I am not a baked blush lover (not including baked gelee). I often have a problem with them looking too pearly on my skin and/or too dry. I only like specific shades of MAC’s Mineralize Blushes. Ilia’s Soft Focus Blurring Blush has potential, but they don’t have the exact tones of the kind of shades I like. Sephora was onto something with their Microsmooth Baked Blushes, but they don’t have a lot of shade options either. So, the fact that PML had my favorite, but kept an entire formula limited edition is truly unfortunate!

I’m sure there will be people surprised that PML’s baked special eyeshadows are not on this list, but I don’t enjoy their flaky texture. I liked them being in the palettes because it felt like their presence justified the cost, and the finished looks on the eyes were beautiful, but I didn’t enjoy actually using them. So, I don’t mind them being gone.

Natasha Denona Mini GoldQuick Review

This palette represents everything I love about eyeshadows. There’s the brow and edge-blending neutral shade, a deepening shade in a stunning brown color, a beautiful gold, a wearable green, and a fun dimensional shimmer. It’s versatile enough because I can create multiple types of eye looks, it’s in a mini size which keeps the cost of the palette low, and the gold toned trim makes it aesthetically pleasing to look at. I can use the gold for an intense sparkly look or keep things subtle by sticking with the mattes and dark satin brown. The eyeshadows are blendable, buildable, and soft. They last all day without fading, have a normal amount of kickup, I don’t get much fallout (I just need to spray the gold), and there’s no creasing. There’s a reason this ranked at the top of my Natasha Denona Palette Post.

I don’t wear makeup enough days out of the week to have hit pan on this or any of the eyeshadows in my collection, but I can see where there are indents.
Anyone who has the Bobbi Brown Jadestone palette might not need something like this, and this year has been the year of the green eyeshadow. The Mini Gold color story isn’t as unique, but that shade Antheia still is! That color is one of my favorite greens in my entire collection, so this is why I wish this color story hadn’t been discontinued.
Mini Gloom might actually be a better mini representation of the original Gold Palette, but Mini Gold is still the best suiting color story for me from ND.

Huda Beauty Glowish BronzerFeatured Review

I said I wouldn’t include defunct brands on this list, but because Glowish was under the Huda Beauty umbrella, I’m allowing it. I assume they own the rights to the formula and could still bring it back if they wanted to, but who knows. I’m not sure if these sold well enough to make a return.

What I liked about these bronzers were the tones and depths available, the colorful swirl pattern (which added to the ability to slightly tailor the shade), and the fact that these felt and performed similar to baked gelee powders, even though they weren’t. I liked this formula more than so many other traditional powder bronzers. It was priced at $31, but they released a few shades of mini sizes when the brand was nearing its end.

From what I recall, people who tried these liked them, though I don’t know if they liked them to the same level as me. Had these been in higher end packaging, I think they still would have been better received. Perhaps even a wider shade range or different combination of swirl colors could have gotten more people to like these. This product had so much potential!

Chanel Blush Lumière in Brun Roussi – Featured Review

I’ve reviewed blushes from seven different Chanel collections, and this one consists of my favorite formula (tied with the Joues Contraste Intense Cream to Powder blush). It is a little harder to pick up with a delicate natural hair brush, but my densely packed fox and goat ones work wonderfully. This is one of Chanel’s more pigmented blushes, but the amount of powder that coats my brush enables me to build up the color in a controlled fashion, so I never overdo it.

This lasts all day on my cheeks without fading. I love the deep red-brown color and that gorgeous warm gold finish. Nowadays, it’s uncommon for Chanel to give us a shimmery blush. So many of the ones intended for those with deeper skin tones have been orange and berry colors. There is actually a void that the return of this blush would fulfill. There are so few deep nude blush colors, and even fewer that are still available for purchase.

I don’t own the blush called Brun Rouge from the brand’s permanent line, but based on photos I saw on Temptalia’s website, it’s the closest option Chanel currently has. To me, this isn’t a good enough substitute because the finish is matte, it’s slightly lighter, and I have found the formulation of Joues Contraste Blushes to get harder to pick up on my brush after a year or two. My Lumiere blush still works perfectly three years later. So, it’s the superior formula.

Even if Chanel decides not to rerelease this particular color, I would still love to see additional dark-skin-friendly shades with this formula.

Kosas The Sun Show Moisturizing Baked Bronzer (Original Formula) – Featured Review

There was a point in time that this was my number one favorite bronzer! I was obsessed with the glowy sheen it had. I liked how well it blended into my skin. The color was a bit strong on the orange side, but I loved it anyway. So many people loved this too, but it was the strong frying oil smell that turned everyone off to this product. One of the more troubling aspects was the inability for anyone to tell when this “clean beauty” product had gone off, if it didn’t have a pleasant smell to begin with!

When Kosas reformulated these bronzers into the yellow packaging, I was disappointed by the return of the smell (just less intense) and the huge shade gap between Escape and Paradise, making my old shade in Deep (which fit right between them) still the best color match. Plus, the new ones had so much more shimmer that it was too much for me.

I love this original bronzer so much that I couldn’t bear to get rid of it, even though I’m afraid to use it. The lack of preservatives in Kosas products is the downfall of this product. I could bet money that if they fixed the smell issue, it would be a huge hit again and then more people would be willing to experience it.

*Honorable Mention #1 – Clionadh Cosmetics MattesFirst Mention

This makes the list on a technicality. Clionadh still has matte eyeshadows in some of their palettes, but they haven’t brought back their matte singles in quite a few years. The initial reason customers were given as to why the brand stopped making them was because the eyeshadows were breaking too much during transit. The eyeshadows were being hand-pressed at the time and they wanted to find a way to keep the logo embossing on the eyeshadow without compromising the stability. Eventually they bought two (I believe) pressing machines. They hired a few additional workers. I recall seeing a comment on Instagram that they were close to being able to bring them back. Well, I’m still waiting!

They didn’t have the best formula on the market, but I liked how uncommon it was. The eyeshadows were pigmented, but buildable. They were incredibly soft (probably due to how they were pressed), finely milled, and felt slightly dry yet silky. They had such interesting tones in colorful, yet muted shades. The mattes from many indie brands are fully saturated and tend to be pressed pigments, for the most intensity on the eyes. Clionadh’s mattes were thin and a little powdery, but also opaque.

*Honorable Mention #2 – Dior Powder No PowderFinalized Thoughts

I wholeheartedly believe this deserves to be on the list of makeup that should be brought back, but I didn’t want it to be featured front and center out of acknowledgement that there were a significant number of people who didn’t get on with this product. It was surprisingly polarizing, with most shoppers either absolutely loving it or thinking it was terrible.

This has been my holy grail finishing powder for so many years now. It’s the only powder I’ve ever hit pan on, let alone been close to using up completely. I’m obsessed with the amount of sheen and blurring this product is capable of producing.

I wish it had no scent, but this fragrance is at least tolerable. I think it’s pleasant.

I have backups of this powder, so I don’t have to be without it for many more years to come. However, I still consider it unfortunate that one of the greatest makeup items in my collection isn’t available for new people to be able to discover and potentially love (or hate)!

This ends today’s post. I hope it was enjoyable to read and that you’ll join me again next week!

-Lili

Isamaya Core 1.0 Eyeshadow Palette Review

Although I’ve been curious about Isamaya Beauty since its launch in 2022, this is finally my first purchase! I thought the green and brown shades from the first Industrial Palette looked pretty, but I heard mixed reviews about the formula. I also had a difficult time trying to justify the price, coming from a startup brand. So, I added it to my Anti-Haul.
By now, the Isamaya brand is a bit more established, especially since creating a line for retail stores like Sephora. I have heard the eyeshadow formula of the Core Palettes are better, and they added purples! Throw in the coupon code I could use via Niche-Beauty, and that was enough to get me to finally take the plunge!

Before we get into the review, I’d like to make it known that the information I have about Isamaya Ffrench is that she’s a makeup artist, is or was at some point the creative director at Byredo, and she had an edgy, quirky, and somewhat controversial vision for the initial Isamaya capsule collections. I don’t have any affiliations with the brand, nor personal feelings about the founder.

Isamaya Core Palette 1.0

The official numbering system of the brand begins at Fetish (my #2) and continues clockwise to end at Initiator (my #1). Then, #11-14 are the same. I did not discover this until after all my photos were taken and labeled, so this is the reason for the difference.

The first unique aspect of Core 1.0 is the emesis basin/kidney dish-shaped packaging with 14 custom eyeshadow pans. No two eyeshadow pan sizes are the same. This is well designed, and although I usually dislike non-uniform pans in palettes, the fact that the symmetry makes sense with little wasted space is why I like it. The downside is that I like to apply shimmers with my fingers, and so the smallest pans are a bit difficult to get into. It also means that shade names could not be printed on the palette directly, but at least the brand included the names on the protective sheet that was inside.

Below are some examples of palettes by Danessa Myricks Beauty, Urban Decay, and Kara Beauty that I would never buy because of the maddening eyeshadow pan layout.

When the Core palettes are turned sideways and opened, they almost look butterfly shaped!

Another uncommon feature of the Core palettes are the various consistencies and finishes of the eyeshadows. Even though nearly all are shimmers, I will discuss each shade individually because their performances on me and my experiences with them are not the same across the board.

Initiator is one of the most opaque eyeshadows in the palette, but I still wouldn’t consider it to be heavily pigmented. Medium-high pigmentation is more accurate. It’s described as a metallic green, and although it’s a warm color with pretty yellow-golden flecks, I feel this is one of the less exciting shades in the palette. It’s smooth and easy to pick up with a brush and fingers. It’s definitely not thick, but most of the eyeshadows in this palette are thinner.

Flesh is the lightest, thinnest, and sheerest shade in the palette. It’s even listed as a “loose clear shimmer.” It looks a bit frosty on my skin, but it’s still one of the better shades for me to use to brighten the inner corners of my eyes. This isn’t the type of topper that relies on having a medium or larger particle size to create an instant impact. Flesh has a small shimmer size, so adding it (dry) on top of another eyeshadow won’t show much of an effect without light hitting it. Under the right conditions, it’s twinkly in a very refined way. To make it work in all lighting situations, I wet it to intensify the white color, and that contrast gives the brighter appearance.
Now, I’m not sure if it’s solely my fingers or using a damp brush that causes this particular eyeshadow to form hardpan, but it’s easy enough to remove.

Fetish is described as a “pure ancient gold.” It’s a little less opaque than Initiator, but still less topper-like than the majority of the rest of the eyeshadows in this palette. It’s soft, a little powdery, and the darker base makes it a tad too dark for me to use as an inner corner highlight. It’s also thin enough to easily create a wash of color if a want, like how I used it in my crease in the first eye look below.

Brass is a shimmery orange-red color that looks like it’s going to be richly pigmented from how it appears in the pan, but it’s another medium opacity type of shade. I use it in a similar way as Fetish, which is to be a transition eyeshadow. Its texture is similar to Initiator and less powdery than Fetish.

The brand describes Fuel as a dark grey with green shimmer. I’ve been honestly a little disappointed by this shade because of how prominent the green looks in the palette compared to how much of the grey shows (grey in photos but it looks brown in person) on my eyes. The texture of this shade is the wettest by far and close to me considering it a cream eyeshadow. To pick up enough product on my finger, I have to practically scoop out a small amount and then smooth that over my eyelids. It looks wet and goes well with an editorial look, but it creases and breaks up terribly on me, no matter what primer I’ve used.

I can get this shade to last 5-6 hours before the crease area starts to look noticeably worn in, provided I set my primer with powder and reinforce that spot with a powder matte eyeshadow to act as the first layer the oil eats up. Using the powder trick, I can finish the day without it looking anywhere near as bad as I photographed above.
Fuel is fine on my lower lash line, but I try to keep it out of my crease where there’s too much movement.

Fuel was one of the shades I looked forward to the most because it’s like a roided up version of Natasha Denona’s Antheia, which is one of my all-time favorite eyeshadows. Antheia is a duochrome and Fuel is a multichrome. It’s quite the shame that it’s too emollient of a shade to last on me, but I’m glad Antheia is still performing beautifully all these years later!

Sweat is a purple and blue iridescent eyeshadow. It’s thin and a bit slick feeling. The color reminds me of the shade UV from Clionadh, but Sweat is way less powdery with better adherence and with an even more translucent base. I honestly feel this is a more refined and modern formula than Clionadh’s, which is the highest of praise. To be fair though, Clionadh’s formula for the Series 2 Iridescents is at least five years old.

Ultraviolet is another purple and blue eyeshadow, or more specifically, “violet with bright cyan shimmer.” It’s a gorgeous dimensional multichrome, but it doesn’t look good on me as a lid shade with such a sheer base. So, I have to use this on top of other eyeshadows or keep it to the inner corner in order for me to be happy with it.

Grip is described as a grungy iridescent green. In the daytime, it looks magenta and green. At night, I have an easier time seeing blue and a cooler-toned purple as well. It’s quite sheer and also soft to the touch. It has a similar vibe to Viridian by Clionadh, which happens to be one of their most affordable shades in the Deep Iridescent Multichrome line. Grip has stronger shifts, but takes twice as many layers to build up to the same opacity level as Viridian. I still prefer Grip because it looks green head-on, whereas Viridian leans more aqua.

The brand says that Leather is a, “smokey black putty.” I can create a small indent in the surface, like with putties, but the performance is more like a cream-to-powder. It’s drier than Natasha Denona cream-to-powders, and the black shade from Pat Mcgrath’s Bronze Bliss palette, but wetter and much better performing than the black shade from Guerlain’s Ombres G Quad in Royal Jungle. The formula is such that I can create a thin hazy veil of smoke or build it up to use as a liner in daytime looks. However, it’s not quite enough to satisfy me if I’m going for maximum drama, unless I treat it like a cake liner and dampen my brush. Also, this isn’t 100% waterproof, but there seems to be a little bit of water resistance, along with it being budge and smudge resistant once it has had a minute or two to set. It’s easy to remove though with my Bioderma micellar water.

Some of the sparkles from Ultraviolet and/or Sweat have gotten into my pan of Leather, but I haven’t noticed it effecting other looks. Those shimmer particles don’t seem to transfer easily back out.

Fhume is purple with magenta shimmer specks. I would call this one a high pigment eyeshadow that is opaque like Initiator. It’s soft and easy to pick up on my brush without being powdery. It’s not too thick in consistency, nor too thin. Fhume looks pretty in the pan, but I think it’s even nicer on the eyes.

I’m the most confused by the description of Suspension as a, “plum with soft gold shimmer,” when it looks purely silvery to me. Perhaps they mean white gold? It’s a bit thicker of an eyeshadow and grittier. I definitely need to wet this or use glitter glue. It’s one of the most glittery shades in this palette and contains slightly larger shimmer particles than the others. Even though it has a dark base, that reflect is so sparkly and bright that I can use it like a highlighting shade to amp up the overall bling level of the eye look. I’ve tried using it in the outer corner and utterly failed to create depth there.

Whip is a charcoal color with purple and silvery sparkle. It’s a bit on the grittier and drier side than the others, but still has good adhesion and spreads very well. At least, I can get it onto my eyes without it looking messy. If I want to minimize the fallout, I do still need to use either a glitter glue and/or apply it damp. Despite this having a dark base, the shimmer is so bright that I could use it all over the lid instead of condemning it to only be used in the outer corner, as can sometimes be my instinct.

Motor is a dark antique gold that flashes olive green. It’s chunky in the sense that it’s thicker than many other eyeshadows in this palette, and little parts of it crumble off when picked up, but it’s too emollient feeling for me to call it crumbly. I like this color, but I wish it looked even more olive.

If Heat is a, “champagne with green shimmer,” just note that it has a warmer undertone than most eyeshadows that are referred to as champagne. It’s super thin, very sheer, and a little dry. It goes from a yellowish color to looking green under the light, but it doesn’t have as strong of a shimmery reflect as the majority of the other shades. It’s like a duochrome satin.

I figured I could create monochromatic all-shimmer looks that I liked, but I was surprised to see how many variations of eyeshadow pairings I enjoyed using together from Core 1.0.
The avant-garde makeup aesthetic isn’t really for me, but I love purples and greens, which is why I was so attracted to this palette. I like to incorporate fun pops of color into my looks, so it’s more practical for me to view this as a supplemental palette to use in conjunction with other palettes.

I appreciate the freedom one has to apply these as washes of color or to layer up the color. There’s clearly a market for people who want duochromes and multichromes, but in subtler and more refined versions. This isn’t too difficult of a palette to use, but it’s not beginner friendly either. For example, some shades don’t build up that much stronger even if applied damp or over glitter glue. Some look better with an actual mixing medium. Then again, at this pricepoint, I don’t think many beginners would start with something like this anyway.

My hope for every palette I buy is for the eyeshadows to be of high quality and perform the way I want. It’s an extra treat when those eyeshadows also come in various textures and finishes that I get to play with. It was difficult at first to remember the different ways I had to treat the various eyeshadows, but by now, I can recall just by seeing how they look on the surface. This has eliminated some of my earlier frustrations trying to use certain shades as a topper, and didn’t realize they were too thin to make a color difference on top of the thicker shades. Learning which order to layer them took some time (about a month with sporadic usage).

If I’m going to buy a duochrome or multichrome, I typically want full pigment right away. I want impact. So, it’s quite a new experience for me to find enjoyment in these kind of eyeshadows. The Isamaya brand managed to create something quite niche, even though it’s something I’m pretty familiar with from my experience exploring various indie brands’ eyeshadows. Danessa Myricks Lightwork Palettes are probably more in line with my preferences, yet I still haven’t shelled out the money for any of those, and they’re similar to the price range of a Core palette. That being said, as much as I like Core 1.0, I still wouldn’t pay full price for it precisely because it’s something I want for specific moods and occasions rather than being an everyday kind of product. I say this even if the high price-point can be justified for the custom packaging, where it was made, the formula and pigments, etc.
If the branding and these eyeshadows fit someone’s vibe, I can see it being worth full price. I don’t think someone expecting Clionadh, Devinah, and other high impact indie brand shimmer quality would like this palette, unless the plan is to use it with mixing mediums. For me, I can only recommend this on sale. In previous years, I’ve seen Isamaya products listed at 30% off. This past Black Friday/Cyber Monday, the Core Palettes were also reduced to 30% off from the brand’s official website. That’s definitely a more palatable price.

That’s all for today! Thank you for reading!

-Lili

Are the Classic Charlotte Tilbury Products Better?

I wasn’t always a fan of Charlotte Tilbury makeup. In fact, I didn’t like the first two items I got from them (the Bar of Gold Highlighter and Fallen Angel Eyeshadow Palette). So, it took a long time before I was willing to buy additional products from them.

In the year that I became interested in the brand again, their top five makeup products were the Airbrush Flawless Filter Powders, the Beauty Wands, Matte Revolution Lipsticks, Cheek to Chic Blushes, and still that Bar of Gold Highlighter. Between 2016 until now, I have tried all of these iconic products except the wands. I have long been tempted to satisfy my curiosity, but the shade ranges were a lot more limited in the past, plus I rarely use liquid forms of blushes, highlighters, etc.

The reason I own them now is because two of them were part of a bundle deal last summer and the other two were free gifts with purchase!

The first thing I noticed is that the lighter shades in the range (Spotlight and Pinkgasm) appear even lighter on my skin than how it looks coming out of the tube. The darker shades (Pinkgasm Sunset and Tan-Deep) look as expected. The photo below demonstrates how much darker the light shades are on the puff compared to my arm swatch.

The Contour Wands

Charlotte Tilbury Contour Wand in Tan-Deep

I waited ages for the brand to release shades darker than the original Medium-Deep, but someone decided it was a good idea to make Tan and Tan-Deep warm toned, as seen in a YouTube Short by Tammi Clarke. I didn’t want a liquid bronzer and the undertone of Tan seemed too red to look like anything but a bronzer on me. That’s why I picked Tan-Deep in the hopes that even if it was too warm to create a shadowy affect, I could still create the illusion of depth based on the amount of shades darker it is from my skin color. Having another Brontour in my collection isn’t so bad.

Well, I wish my plan was more successful in practice. With my skills, it’s a bit difficult to spread such a small amount of product evenly everywhere and have it look natural with such a big jump between this shade and my skin tone. If this was the type of blendable formula that sheers out while it’s being applied, it would look a lot better. However, that’s the kind of trait that’s easier to find in cream form. The advantage of liquid contours is how well they set down and how incredibly long-lasting they are on the skin. So, I don’t expect the Contour Wand to perform that way. It’s just unfortunate that I don’t have a closer shade match from the line, so that I can get the same results from this product as other customers will. For others, the amount of time you have to blend before it dries is likely good enough. The spread-ability is also less likely to be an issue for someone who has their correct shade. The pigment level could still be too high for the type of person who prefers subtle and skin-like complexion products, but maybe the natural girlies prefer to just skip contouring anyway! The Charlotte Tilbury brand isn’t known for championing barely-there type of makeup.

I compiled these photos from the images on Beautylish.com

Of course, there are still tricks to better merge this into my foundation. I can apply leftover foundation between the edges. I can also use a blurring or brightening finishing powder to tone down the color and also clean up the edges. Plus, once blush is on top, the slight splotches aren’t as noticeable.

If I actually wanted a liquid bronzer, I could buy the Tan shade of Contour Wand. However, I feel pretty confident I would still prefer to use Charlotte Tilbury’s Beautiful Skin Sunkissed Glow Bronzer, which continues to remain the top cream bronzer in my collection. I highly recommend it, though there aren’t many shades to choose from. If I had to pick, I would also select the Airbrush Bronzer over the Contour Wand.

The Beauty Light Wands

Charlotte Tilbury Easy Highlight Blush in Pinkgasm Sunset and Charlotte Tilbury High Blush in Pinkgasm

I’m not sure what the distinction is supposed to be between the “high blush” and “highlight blush” considering both are shimmery. Pinkgasm looks shinier and brighter than Pinkgasm Sunset, but it’s probably just due to it being a lighter color.

I have a much easier time blending these in than the Contour Wands, but that’s because I don’t have to be as careful with the application. In the beginning, I struggled to figure out how much product to let out during the twist process before toggling the arrow back to the “off” position. I would sometimes let out an excess amount of product, which is the only time I’d be in danger of applying too much as I dotted it directly to my cheeks. However, that’s something I got used to with time.
My tube of Pinkgasm Sunset isn’t leaking to the point where it fills the cap, but despite me keeping it permanently in the “off” position, there is still always product in the sponge tip. My other tubes haven’t had that issue.

I love the color and the glow from these blushes, but it’s definitely not a natural appearance. It borders the line between looking shimmery and looking metallic. It also doesn’t fully sink into my skin. Bold makeup wearers may not mind, but this could be a drawback to others.
If I’m creating a dramatic and full coverage kind of look, these blushes don’t seem out of place.

In most situations, these blushes fully dry down on my face. Once it sets, it doesn’t budge all day. However, if I’m wearing extra moisturizing skincare in combination with a dewier foundation, the blushes get a slight tacky feeling. I rarely powder my entire face, so it’s possible that could be a simple solution for when this happens, or to use a setting spray. I wasn’t home when I noticed this, so I just made sure not to press my cheek against anyone!

My favorite way to use these shades is to apply Pinkgasm Sunset on most of my cheek area and concentrate Pinkgasm on the apples and top of my cheekbones in place of highlighter. Texture is enhanced a little, but I won’t be fooling anyone into thinking my shiny cheeks are natural anyway!
I can somewhat get away with wearing Pinkgasm by itself on my cheeks, as seen in the photo lower down, but I think it looks best when paired with Pinkgasm Sunset.

Between the Blush Wands and Blush Sticks, I prefer the look of the Blush Wands on my cheeks and how they set down fully. Due purely to the shade options, I might even prefer the Blush Wand over the Cheek to Chic Blushes. However, my top blush format from Charlotte Tilbury are their powder blushes that end up in limited edition products, but are not yet available as singles.

Charlotte Tilbury Easy Highlighter in Spotlight

There isn’t much to say regarding the highlighter. There are times that I could swear the product seamlessly blended into the liquid blush and didn’t look so stark, but I was not able to capture those moments on camera. Perhaps it had to do with the lighting I was under.

Trying to use Spotlight very sparingly, and keeping it strategically placed, is a little challenging. Pinkgasm is bright enough that I don’t even feel the need to apply a true highlighter on top after. There is also the advantage that if I apply Pinkgasm in too wide of an area, it looks as if I intentionally blended it into my blush like a blush topper. Unfortunately, if I apply too much of Spotlight, I need to cover it up or start over.

Essentially, this is more of a preference note and not a critique of the formula. It is pretty much the same as the blushes, so those that like the blushes will probably enjoy the highlighters as well, provided it’s a suitable color for the individual.

By now, it wouldn’t surprise anyone to know that I prefer the brand’s powder highlighters, specifically, the Hollywood Glow Glide Face Architect Highlighter and the Pillow Talk Multi-Glow Highlighter. For ease of use of a liquid and for a subtler glow, I even prefer the Hollywood Flawless Filter. I also use the Unreal Skin Sheer Glow Tint Hydrating Foundation Stick as a highlighter. I’d choose all of these options over the Beauty Light Wand Highlighters.

These Beauty Wands didn’t turn me into a liquid makeup lover, but it’s nice to see the hype wasn’t unwarranted. I think out of everything, I’m the most likely to use the Blush Wands every now and then. To be fair, the contour and highlighter aren’t the right shades, so there isn’t as much chance of me getting use out of them.

If I had to choose my favorite liquid contour, it might be Charlotte’s (because I have tried less than a handful). My favorite liquid blushes are by Rare Beauty and Glossier, but I feel like the Huda Beauty Blush Filters have some shimmery shades that are better than the Blush Wands. I don’t have a favorite liquid highlighter, but it might be the Dior Forever Glow Star Filter.
So, even though I’m not a liquid lover, the Beauty Wands still wouldn’t be at the top of my list. They’re decent products, but just not for me.

Lip Products

Charlotte Tilbury Unreal Lips Healthy Glow Nectar Oil in Juicylicious Candy Fig

This feels like a gloss and oil hybrid, rather than a traditional lip oil. It has a non-runny consistency that isn’t too thick or too thin either. It grips the lips quite well and doesn’t come off my lips completely even after a meal. Of course, I still need to reapply it at least 1 or 2 times in the day, but I’m impressed with its adherence level.

In terms of how nourishing it is for me, it doesn’t improve the condition of my lips as much as my favorite lip-caring products, but it at least doesn’t make them worse. It’s essentially the kind of product I grab to just keep my lips moisturized in the moment, to have the glossy shine, and perhaps for the slight twinge of reddish-purple and brown color. If I want to actually combat any chapped spots, rather than just camouflaging and soothing them, I need to use something else.

This has a nice sweet fig scent. The applicator is a great shape to help spread a semi-thick product like this evenly. I can feel a bit of tack when I wear the Nectar Oil, but I don’t consider it to be noticeably sticky until it starts to wear off.

The Nectar Oils were released around the same time as the Dior Lip Glow Butters. I haven’t used the Dior ones consistently enough to have my thoughts formed on them, but I like them both. Considering the price difference, I should like the Dior significantly more, but they’re about even for me. Dior’s is €44 at full price for 10ml and Charlotte’s is €26 for 14ml. Dior’s has a cool-minty feeling in the beginning. Charlotte’s has more color payoff, depending on the shade.
They both come in plastic tubes and have identically shaped applicators. In fact, I can even swap the caps on both of them, even though they are different lengths.
I will review the Dior product at some point in the future and revisit these comparisons.

I like the Charlotte Tilbury Nectar Oil, but it’s not a game-changer.

Charlotte Tilbury K.I.S.S.I.N.G (mini) in Pillow Talk Deep (Intense) and Charlotte Tilbury Lip Cheat (mini) in Pillow Talk Deep

I bought these as part of a set called Mini Pillow Talk Lip Kit in Pillow Talk Deep.
“Intense” and “Deep” are used interchangeably and are listed as either one depending on the website. With just a few swipes of the lipstick, I can completely cover the darker pigmented spots on my lips.
I like the color, but it’s a hair darker than I hoped. Perhaps I would like the color of Pillow Talk Medium more on myself, but that shade is in a different formula (Matte Revolution).

This K.I.S.S..I.N.G Lipstick is a comfortable satin formula that leaves some initial imprints on glasses and whatever it touches at the start of the day, but I’m still left with quite a bit of color that clings well to the lips even after most of the sheen is gone. This needs to be touched up after meals, but if I’m just drinking, I can go 3-4 hours before getting the sensation of needing to apply more to get back the moisturized feeling (and not because of the color being gone/faded). If only drinking, six hours is around as much as the color lingers before I consider it pretty much gone. There are some remnants on a napkin when I wipe my lips, but what’s left is the equivalent of a light tint barely darker than my natural lip color.

This doesn’t contain parfum, but it has Ethyl Vanillin which is used as a flavoring agent and fragrance. When I lick my lips, I don’t taste vanilla. When I smell the bullet, I can faintly detect something, but it may just be that my small mini isn’t as strongly scented as the full-size.

I have used this lipstick on my best conditioned days (after 24-48 hours of my best balms and glosses) as well as less than ideal days. This lipstick works great on the best days, but that sensation of needing to reapply is unsurprisingly stronger during the times when my lips are quite dry from the start. So, on those days I typically wear the lipstick for half of the day before switching to something more nourishing. That’s the best way I can wear this lipstick for multiple days in a row.

So, overall, I like this lipstick and the formula. I would consider buying more in the future, but I’m not interested in other shades at the moment.

The Lip Cheat is a creamy liner that glides over the skin easily, and there is enough time to soften and the edges before it locks into place, but not a whole lot. The longevity is quite good, as it has lasted through meals (except if I wipe my mouth too much with a napkin), and it remains on my lips even after my lipstick is gone.

The brand claims the formula is waterproof, smudge-proof, and transfer-proof. It certainly is long-lasting, but I tested that even after having it on for 10 minutes, I could still partly wipe it away with water. So, I’d call it water-resistant instead. I can also wipe it away with a dry makeup eraser. This doesn’t smudge on me once it’s set, and it’s transfer-resistant on my dry bare skin. However, if I’m wearing a moisturizing formula of lipstick or more emollient product such as a lip gloss or lip oil on top, it is definitely coming off if it makes contact with the surface of something.
That being said, this is still one of the better lip liners in my collection.

I like this particular color, though it’s darker than what I usually wear. Still, it fills a void.

I like the Lip Cheat enough that I would be willing to buy more. However, since I hardly use lip liners, I just don’t have a need for additional shades at this time.

So that is everything I have for you today! Thank you for reading!

-Lili

Was MAC Holiday 2025 Brilliant or a Bust?

MAC always has these huge holiday collections filled with limited edition shades of products, new formulas, minis, and plenty of value sets. Unlike other brands, whose holiday items tend to be cheaper quality, MAC’s standard seems to be the same across the board. The brushes are the only things I’ve heard negative things about, and I’ve liked the holiday makeup I’ve bought over the years. This time, I decided to pick up just a few things.

Sugar Crystal Lip Oil Stick in Glisten Up

The cute packaging and uniquely shaped bullet with the gorgeous oil-slick colors is so enticing! I was very curious to experience this formula, because it’s a new innovation for MAC.

As seen in the swatches, the purple-blue-pink shimmer specks are an overspray. One swipe was enough to remove it completely from the slanted portion, and I can see that it’s clear from the inside, similar to the look of the Winky Lux Flower Lip Balms. I believe MAC’s formula is a little more complex and modern than those.
I am at least happy that the sides of the lipstick will continue to look sparkly as long as I don’t touch it. I honestly didn’t want that shimmer on my lips. I get a particle or two each time I wear it, but it’s essentially a clear product. It has a pretty shine, but it’s not very glossy or oily looking.

The surface feels gel-like, soft, and comfortable as I move it across my lips. The bullet doesn’t tug and I get a similar sensation to the k-beauty melty formulas, but the bullet continues to hold its shape and doesn’t look overly emollient on the surface.

I have super dry lips, so I’m always happy to have a product that deeply nourishes and hydrates my lips, in addition to making them look supple and moisturized. Unfortunately, this is not one of those products. It keeps my lips moisturized on the surface for a couple of hours, but it’s not that much better than a typical lip balm and my lips lose that hydrated feeling much quicker than my regular lip oils. I have to reapply a lot throughout the day.

Although I don’t see parfum listed on the website ingredient list, this contains Citric Acid and Vanillin, and it has a mild candy gumdrop type of smell. I get enjoyment from looking at it and using it, but it’s not going to become a staple product in my collection. I think this would make a fun gift for someone, but more as a novelty item. Perhaps others with less severely dry lips will consider the formula to be good enough. I can only speak about my experience using it.

Jelly Shine Eye Shadow in Ice List

Based on the name alone, I was expecting a gel wet-feeling product. It’s supposed to have a “hybrid, jelly-like texture,” but the shimmer particles make it so that it feels dry to the touch with every swipe. I honestly would have called BS on the texture if I hadn’t been able to scrape the product out with my nail and then completely smooth it back out on the surface of the pan with my finger. It has some slip to it, but it’s not wet like the Colourpop Jelly Much eyeshadows, it doesn’t have the creaminess of a MAC Paint Pot, nor the softness of the MAC Glow Play Cushiony Blushes.

As someone who enjoys an interesting tactile experience combined with high performance, I was a little disappointed by how this felt. The results made up for it though. Ice List doesn’t look that impressive on me when I use it on my bare lids, but it really sings when paired with other eyeshadows!

When applied straight from the pan to my lids, it has a scattered effect type of look. I cannot get an opaque application without applying the eyeshadow damp first. I think this is a good quality for a topper to have, so that it suits more people’s eye makeup preferences. I’m not the biggest fan of toppers, but if I can get one to show less of my skin or eyeshadow underneath, I’m fine with that.

I have a lot of impressive sparkly eyeshadows from indie brands, so my expectations were low. I didn’t think a product like this would make such a difference, but it’s great for bumping up the impact and drama of an eyeshadow look. One such example is when I was completely satisfied and happy with my eye makeup using Clé de Peau eyeshadows, but when I added Ice List on top, it took the look to a whole new level!

This can be a little messy to use if an extra chunk comes off, as I sometimes get it in my lashes. It adheres well (I always wet it though), so I don’t notice much fallout throughout the day. However, when I have to take it off is when the sparkles go everywhere and it’s so difficult to get every speck off my face despite using my tried and true Bioderma micellar water with a Makeup Eraser cloth.

M·A·CStack Elevated Mascara (travel size)

MAC has the Foreseeable Future Eye Kit that includes a full size of this mascara, plus full size of the Colour Excess Gel Pencil Eye Liner. I did not buy that set, but I figured I could include this mascara review as part of the holiday collection because of that kit.

The M·A·CStack Mascara is one of my favorites, so I was eager to try this one because I assumed it would be a similar formula, just with a curved brush instead. There are actually more differences than that. For instance, the first M·A·CStack has a “mousse-like texture…for endless stackability” and the Elevated M·A·CStack has a wetter formula “featuring argan oil.” The M·A·CStack has a silicone brush and the Elevated M·A·CStack has a bristle brush.

In the beginning, I really did not like the Elevated M·A·CStack because I felt the formula was too wet and thin. It wasn’t sticking as well to my lashes, so I was lacking volume and couldn’t build it up that much. After about a month or so the mascara liquid became thicker and/or less wet (it gained more grip), and then I started to like how it looked. Although my preferred technique is to build up a lot of mascara in one go, with the Elevated mascara I got better results by applying a first coat and waiting for it to mostly dry before adding a thicker second coat.

Below is another example of how it looks on my lashes. It’s from my Cle de Peau post.

Although this mascara works better for me now than it was in the beginning, and it does a decent job of lifting the lashes, I still prefer the normal version of M·A·CStack. The M·A·CStack is quicker to apply and get the volume and length I like. The only thing to note is it may not be suited to those with sensitive eyes. I have no issues wearing that mascara unless I lay down to take a nap. Then, my eyes get irritated. Although I don’t see flakes on my face when I wear the M·A·CStack, I can only assume that some of it gets in my eyes when I’m in a laying position and causes irritation. Also, when I’m trying to remove the mascara, my eyes are fine as long as I get all of the particles completely out. If a dot of it gets in the back, my eyes will again feel uncomfortable and a little irritated until I remove it.
I don’t know if the Elevated version does this as well, considering I have tried my best to just not nap while I’m wearing makeup. I do not wish to intentionally test this out either.

MAC Lustreglass Sheer-Shine Lipstick in Posh Pit

Since this is a MAC centered post, I figure it’s a fitting place to add photos of this lipstick. It was not included in my first review of the Lustreglass lipstick formula from my Makeup So Good I Had to Buy More post. I bought this shade in April, but I don’t see it on the US MAC website, so I’m not sure if it’s discontinued. It’s listed as out of stock on the MAC DE site, but I can still find it at other German retailers.

A short summary of my thoughts is that I consider the Lustreglass formula to be a more emollient version of the Lisa Eldridge Luxuriously Lucent Lip Colours. The amount of color this gives can be built up, but not to full opacity. The texture is light and buttery feeling and the shine level looks beautiful when first applied, but it’s not that long lasting on me. The tradeoff for this remaining comfortable on my desert dry lips is the fact that I have to reapply a lot.

Final Thoughts

This marks the end of the reviews. If these products were amazing and staple-worthy, I would consider the holiday collection to be brilliant. As it stands, this isn’t a bust either because MAC is holding true to what they usually do. This is the brand that released the Snowflushed duochrome highlighter in 2019, and chose to make a minty shade of highlighter this year. They tend to take more risks with the colors in their holiday collections, and I too am more prone to trying things outside of my comfort zone during this festive time.

The products I got were fun, and it helps that I got them on sale too!

That’s all for today! Thank you for checking out my blog!
Also, I’m wishing anyone who celebrates it an early Happy Thanksgiving!

-Lili

Clé de Peau Beauté Holiday 2025 and Permanent Quads

For those only interested in the review, feel free to scroll further down to that specific section.

My History with Clé de Peau

In 2011, I was not interested in luxury makeup. In fact, makeup didn’t play as large of a role in my life until several years later. Despite that, it was still impossible to avoid hearing about how, “Kim Kardashian loves Clé de Peau’s concealer.” Mario Dedivanovic’s “triangle concealer technique” was the talk of the makeup, fashion, and celebrity gossip world.

Being the curious person I am, I did some research and was absolutely floored by the prices of everything. At that time, drugstore makeup was all I had experienced, and MAC was considered the crème de la crème among my circle of friends. We were all broke college kids and I didn’t dare look at the legacy brand makeup behind the beauty counters of our mall because they were so far out of my price range. I was shocked to discover brands like Clé de Peau existed with price-points surpassing even those!

Since Clé de Peau was the first non-designer luxury brand I’d ever heard of, the name stuck with me. It wasn’t until the end of 2013 that my makeup obsession began. I started dabbling into mid tier and prestige brands, but beauty subscription boxes are how I was able to try a lot more products in those days (and this is where the “Unbox” part of my blog name comes from as I used to make unboxing content). In 2015, I tried my first Cle de Peau product via the Choix subscription service. I had a small container of the brand’s translucent loose powder. I remember it working so beautifully, but I only used it on special occasions because I knew I would always have a hard time justifying spending over $100 on any single makeup item.
I have the majority of my YouTube videos listed as private, but I’ll make the Choix and Clé de Peau unboxing temporarily visible through the link for those who would like to see it HERE. Also, perhaps 1.5x or 2x speed for the video would be best.

In 2016, I received the Clé de Peau concealer brush and a tiny sample of the concealer in the shade Beige. This was thanks to the blogger nouveaucheap (who unfortunately passed away).

I’m not a fan of paddle shaped flat concealer brushes, so I rarely used this, and stored it in its original box as if it was a collector item. I guess it technically is one now because this style of brush has been discontinued. As for the concealer, it was too light, so I didn’t bother putting it on my face.

2019 was the year I finally started hearing about the Clé de Peau holiday launches. The packaging was always gorgeous, but it wasn’t until 2021 that I started pining after the Luminizing Face Enhancers.

The standard packaging for those highlighters was beautiful enough, but the limited edition ones were truly exquisite. Because the finish is glittery and the brand doesn’t make any in my shade anyway, I didn’t buy them. To clarify, pretty much every reviewer I have seen talk about the highlighters say they look smooth and have such fine shimmer particles that they don’t look glittery. However, what I see in their videos under their lights from my computer screen still looks too visible in my book. Apparently the double digit numbered luminizers are subtler than the triple digit ones, so 22 is the darkest one I could potentially try. Perhaps the luminizer would be like Guerlain Météorites (04 Amber) and surprise me, but I don’t want to spend a minimum of $70 on a refill to test it out. The only place I’m aware of that ships those refills to Germany is YesStyle, and not even on the official CPB website.

At some point the brand started releasing eyeshadow quads as part of the holiday collections, but the options didn’t appeal to me. To spend so much money on a color story I didn’t like would have been no different from buying it for the packaging alone.

In 2023, I started to get my hopes up because Clé de Peau launched a full permanent line of refillable quads. This meant that even if I didn’t like what was in the holiday cases, I could replace it with a more appealing color story. If I didn’t like the options in the permanent range, I could still wait for an expansion to the line and buy a prettier refill in the future.

There was still an issue of the price. In 2023 and 2024, the products sold out before I could catch them on sale. Although customers can purchase eyeshadow refills and the standard case separately, CPB does not sell the limited edition cases on their own. $116 for a quad is still a threshold I’m not willing to cross. It pained me enough to buy the Chanel Boutons quad at full price.

This year, luck was on my side! Douglas started carrying Clé de Peau products, so I kept my eye out in the hopes that they would stock the holiday collection. They do, but the launch didn’t coincide with the timing of any discounts, and the items became unavailable after a few days. Although I was disappointed, this turned out to be a good thing because I remembered that Niche-Beauty also carries Clé de Peau. So, I was able to buy the quad at 20% off, in addition to using reward points. Sometimes this retailer offers 25% off promo codes, but I didn’t want to take my chances on it selling out, which it did a week later! I felt even more confident that I made the right call when I saw the quad return to the Douglas website for €13 higher than the price was before! So, I’m ecstatic to have this quad at a price that I’m at least able to swallow. It’s less than the Chanel Boutons quad, which I am still salty about paying full price for! Or as they say in Germany…

Holiday 2025 Review

Clé de Peau Beauté Dreams Express Eye Color Quad in 504 Pastel Tea Safari

This isn’t a color story I would normally gravitate towards, but I saw some interesting eye looks on the website, especially on the model whose foundation shade could be in the NC46 range from MAC. I figured that as long as the brown shade was truly as dark as it appeared in photos, I could probably make these colors work together. So, checking the pigment level of these eyeshadows was the first thing I did.

Also, I am aware of the Asia-exclusive version of this holiday quad with the 505 Jeweled Horizons color story, but I prefer the one I bought.

I found this photo from a seller on Ebay, but I’ll also link a video by Serina.

On dry skin with no primer (which is the condition I always swatch eyeshadows in), 3 of the 4 shades look as weak as I feared. Thankfully, there are two ways to get them to show up better. The first is to use the priming shade, always located in the bottom left corner of the Clé de Peau quads. The second way is to apply them damp, like I did in the right half of the photo above.

The brand refers to the pink color as “pink sparkle.” It’s easy to see those shimmer particles on my bare eyelids because there’s so much darkness underneath, but if I try to apply it on top of the other shades in the same way I use a highlighter to amp up the shimmer, it can barely be seen. The only way for me to use this as a topper, and get some impact, is to wet it.

When I use Pink Sparkle as a primer, as intended, I get more color payoff and shine from the other eyeshadows. This also makes the colors look more cool-toned though.

The texture of Pink Sparkle reminds me of Surratt’s duochrome formula within their Artistique Eyeshadow line because of how much creaminess it has. Pink Sparkle doesn’t have as much slip as a Colourpop Super Shock eyeshadow, but I can tell by touch alone that it’s a dimethicone-forward formula. I’ve been happy to see that it’s not emollient enough to cause the eyeshadows to crease. The other shades don’t crease either, even though they contain argan oil.

Some of my dark discoloration still shows underneath Pink Sparkle, and doesn’t get covered up enough if the eyeshadow on top is light, like the light brown shade. Putting my usual Lisa Eldridge base down first will cause Pink Sparkle to pill off. So, I found it best to either keep the two separate, having just Pink Sparkle priming the lid and the Lisa Eldridge product priming the area between the brow and crease, or to just put Pink Sparkle everywhere and apply the Lisa Eldridge product on top (instead of underneath). That adds the necessary coverage and doesn’t negatively impact the performance of the other eyeshadows.

Even if I do wet the light brown eyeshadow, which is referred to as a “golden beige,” it’s too close to my skin tone to look vivid on me. I’m fine with this because it makes a perfectly good low-impact brightening shade and is a useful transition for the edge of the dark brown.

The darkest eyeshadow is called a “walnut brown,” and can create just enough depth for me to be satisfied. If I don’t use Pink Sparkle underneath, I’d say it leans neutral or just a touch warm at most. Pairing Golden Beige and Walnut Brown together makes for a simple, but pretty, eye look.

The purple eyeshadow is described as “lavender purple” and it’s what I rely on as the statement color. It pairs very well with the dark brown and pink shades in this palette. This isn’t my favorite tone of purple, but I think it looks quite nice!

The pigment level, texture, and performance of these eyeshadows remind me of Surratt and Suqqu eyeshadows. I linked my reviews for both, but I have additional Surratt eyeshadows (including a duochrome) that I haven’t posted about yet.

Surratt, Suqqu, and Clé de Peau eyeshadows are all made in Japan. One big difference, at least from Suqqu, is that I can lightly dampen Clé de Peau eyeshadows without it ruining the look of them in the pan or changing the texture. So, I can continue practicing my usual methods in intensifying these eyeshadows to the level that I prefer. This allows me to use this palette in a wider variety of looks than I believed I’d be able to get. I thought I would want to replace these eyeshadows with a different refill, but I like Pastel Tea Safari enough to want to keep it in this case! Between Surratt, Suqqu, and Clé de Peau, I like CPB’s eyeshadow formula the most.

These don’t produce a lot of kickup. They stick well enough to my eyes. Blending is no issue. Essentially, the quality is very nice. It’s just a matter of preference regarding buildable eyeshadows that don’t pack a punch right away (or at least not this year’s holiday quad without help). I consider these to be amped up satins, and the results I get from this quad is what a lot of luxury brands aim for.
Like a lot of luxury brands, these eyeshadows contain fragrance. I’d call it a mildly sweet and slightly floral soapy scent, which is faint enough that I don’t always notice it.

Because I tend to wear smoky and dramatic looks, intense sparkle, and very pigmented eyeshadows, paying the full €92 ($106) price for this quad or even €59 for the refill, will never be worth it to me. €59 EUR is around $67 USD, but Clé de Peau actually charges $78 for the refills on their US website. So, I don’t think I would buy more if I had to order them in the US. It’s not that the quality isn’t worth the price, but rather the price isn’t worth the amount of disuse I expect to have.
There are times when I’m in the mood for these kind of eyeshadows in their non-dampened form, but it’s so infrequent that I can’t justify getting them. If I will only use something occasionally, I want the cost to be lower too.

I wouldn’t put as much pressure on myself to “get my money’s worth” out of CPB quads if I could buy them at 25% off. So, this was my initial thought process regarding any new color stories in the future that may catch my eye. For a long time, I only found the 10 Sea Grass quad appealing, but those aren’t the tones of greens I love. Lately, 4 Ocean Sunrise has been on my mind. Merely one week before this post was set to be published, Niche-Beauty sent out 25% off codes via email. So, I ended up buying another quad.

It’s my birthday month! What can I say?

Lastly, considering my previous post, I feel compelled to mention that the packaging is gorgeous, but it is also lightweight. What makes this feel luxurious is the unicarton, the soft purple dust sleeve, large size push-click button, gold tone elements with concave sides and rounded edges, and the fantastically strange yet wonderful artwork on the lid.

Clé de Peau Beauté Eye Color Quad (refill) in 4 Ocean Sunrise

I get way more pigment with this quad than Pastel Tea Safari! The only eyeshadow that didn’t swatch as well is the first one, and it’s also the only shade that needed to be applied damp in the eye look below. The primer color is icy on me despite looking warm in the pan. It still has a pretty highlighting effect when applied dry, but I applied it wet in the eye look to create a stronger pop of brightness.

I’m pleased to see that the browns between both of my quads are not the same. The darkest color from Pastel Tea Safari looks like a combination of the two darkest shades in Ocean Sunrise.

For now, I intend to just keep the refill in the plastic holder and use it from there. Also, I intend to preserve the pattern in the holiday quad as long as possible by digging my brushes and fingers into specific spots (as seen in the pictures).

Since I bought the holiday quad and refill quad at a discount, I don’t have any regrets. However, I don’t think I can give a completely impartial opinion on whether this would be worth it to other people, considering this purchase has fulfilled a six-year desire to own a CPB holiday item and satisfied over fourteen years of curiosity about the brand. As a general rule though, I prefer not to spend over €50 for a quad that isn’t on my list of top 10 favorite brands’ eyeshadow formulas. That’s why getting a color story I liked, at that lower price, was good enough for me to be content with my purchases.

Blog Updates

If you’ve been visiting my blog for a while, you’re probably aware that I continued my second Project Pan into the remaining half of this year. Even though there are certain products I am trying to avoid buying, I have exceptions to every rule, particularly if it’s something I’ve been wanting for years. Some of the reasons I might have an exception is because the item finally restocked, I’ve been waiting for a color story that would suit me, the product was only sold in a region of the world I couldn’t access, the price was too high at the time, etc.

Based on the details in the history section, Cle de Peau clearly falls into this category of exceptions.

My idea for the “Wish Fulfillment” series is to separate my normal purchases from the products I’ve had on my makeup bucket list. These are products I’ve always wanted to buy, but couldn’t because of some circumstance.
Within the “Table Of Contents By Topics” bar of my blog, where one can select a category of posts from the drop down menu, I have added, “Wish Fullfillment/Makeup Bucket List,” so anyone can easily find the series.

The first one I can think of that should be in this category is the Charlotte Tilbury Instant Look in a Palette. Others from the past have been added to the list.

That’s all for today! Thank you for reading and I hope this has been interesting and helpful!

-Lili