Discussing Nars Formula Changes with New Blushes and Highlighter Review

By now, many brands have been moving towards being talc-free due to upcoming changes in EU Regulations, but Nars was among the first by reformulating their bronzers in 2023 and the blushes in 2024. What baffles me is that the formulas of their products are not consistent across the board.

As I mentioned in my review of the Hot Escapes Palette, the highlighters in there share the same names as the highlighters in the Light Reflecting Luminizing Powders range, but the ingredients don’t match up, nor even all of the colors. This has been a growing annoyance for a lot of customers hoping to repurchase their favorite shades, only to discover that they are not identical. For example, my reformulated bronzer in 06 is darker than the even newer 06 bronzer from the Hot Escapes Palette. My older Dolce Vita blush is similar, but not identical to the newer one either.
It’s also confusing to buy a product expecting a certain finish and texture, only to end up with something different. The highlighters are a prime example of that.

In an effort to finally put my curiosity to rest, I bought a Light Reflecting Luminizing Powder to compare with what is in the Hot Escapes Palette. I also purchased three blushes in the new formula to compare to the older one.

Nars Powder Blushes in Dolce Vita, Infatuated, and Orgasm Rush

A change that Nars made, that I can definitely support, is that these blushes are refillable. Less packaging being produced is better for the environment, but of course I like the ability to just purchase a pan of blush for a cheaper price and be able to stick it in an empty magnetic palette. Unfortunately, Nars hasn’t improved that option since the launch. At the time that I’m writing this in 2026, there are still only 5 shades available as refills. None of those are dark-skin friendly.

The cost of refills from the Nars are €29 each, but I have been able to get the full products from Flaconi for €19 each. So, I don’t have much incentive to buy refills or purchase directly from Nars anyway.

My history with Nars blushes has been long and unstable. To sum up the gist of my Rediscovering Nars Blushes post: I tend to like them, but I rarely love them. They almost always play second fiddle to my MAC blushes.

The matte blush from Hot Escape shares the same ingredients as the current matte single blushes, but the order is shuffled around. The shimmer blush from Hot Escape contains no kaolin, but the current shimmery singles have some (and definitely less than the mattes).

One of the biggest reasons I didn’t like some of Nars’ past blushes is because they looked a little dry on me. So, I thought if the current line of powder blushes use less kaolin, that could have explained why I prefer the blush singles over the older ones, but it’s still the second ingredient in the matte formula. Now, I’m unsure what is responsible for the reformulated blushes looking better on me.

Dolce Vita is described as a “matte dusty rose” and Infatuated as a “matte deep plumberry” but I can see faint shimmer within the surface of the blush pan of Dolce Vita. I cannot see that shimmer in swatches, but there’s a slight glow on my cheeks in the photo below. Both of these blush shades look much softer on my cheeks than the previous Nars blushes. They’re pigmented, but they build color slower than their predecessors. I’ve always given credit to Nars when they’ve launched dark-skin friendly shades. However, they tended to be very intense in pigment and/or bold in color. For someone like me who prefers subtle natural flushes of color and the occasional pop, the lack of nude options is why I often turned to MAC instead.

Although I love the shades Taos and Liberte in the old formula, I didn’t wear them that often because of the issues of being easy to overapply and looking drier on my cheeks than I like. The reformulated blushes don’t have these issues.

I like my new version of Orgasm Rush better than Night Swim because it’s slightly more buildable and blendable. They don’t seem hugely different in terms of texture (perhaps Orgasm Rush is the slightest bit silkier), yet the small changes made all the difference to me.

The only time Nars used to put this much shimmer in a blush was in their baked gelee formula, so I was surprised to see the shimmer level of Night Swim, and see shades like Orgasm Rush in the permanent blush line. I never ended up reviewing the Nars Orgasm Four Play Blush Quad, but I had the shade Orgasm Rush already from there in the baked gelee formula. Unfortunately, I cannot compare that one with the current talc-free version I own because I left it in the US.


I really like how these single blushes look on me, and I am more likely to reach for these over any others from Nars. That being said, there are still plenty of blushes I like even more from other brands. So, I will only buy additional shades in the future if they are truly breathtaking colors that I can’t resist.

Of course, in true Nars fashion, these relatively new and reformulated blushes aren’t enough. According to @VoceMagazine on Instagram, Nars will be releasing Light Reflecting Luminizing Blushes in seven shades in April or May. I’m guessing these will also be refillable since they share the same compact design as the Light Reflecting Luminizing Powders range.

The link to Voce’s swatch video can be found HERE.

If anyone is wondering, I don’t intend to buy these upcoming blushes.

HIGHLIGHTER

In October 2025, I purchased the refill of the Light Reflecting Luminizing Powder in the shade Ophelia for €19 from Flaconi. I already figured this would not become a favorite of mine based on the review from NikkifromHR, as we have similar highlighter preferences. However, I couldn’t rid myself of the need to buy it in order to personally see how it differed from the Hot Escape highlighter. These kind of decisions based on intense curiosity is something I’m trying to get better about in 2026!

As expected, this did not become a favorite. If I use enough highlighter to get easily visible shine, it’s more metallic looking than I typically go for and the individual shimmer particles are easy to spot when you click the photo to see the enlarged version.
It’s smoother than I expected and it’s pretty when looking at it from afar, but it’s still not really to my taste. It’s more important to me to have products that look great in person over ones that look better in photos.

The smallest amount of Ophelia is comparable in luminosity to a light(ish) application of Skinny Dip from the Hot Escape III Palette. Skinny Dip blends into my skin more because it’s darker, but I also find the shimmer particles to be less reflective in a good way. It’s all a matter of preference though and someone else could still love the Light Reflecting formula.

The photos above and below are some examples in different lighting, plus unblended vs blended swatches.

I prefer Skinny Dip, but even that isn’t my favorite. I’ve created many posts featuring highlighters that I prefer even more. Additional ones not included on that list are the Prada Light Glowing Highlighter Powder as my current number one and the Hindash Gradient Highlighter. I love the effect of the Prada one so much that I could be swayed into never buying another highlighter again if not for it being so heavily scented! In any case, I’ll be reaching for Skinny Dip instead of Ophelia if I ever want to create a “Full Face of Nars Products” type of look.

One final thing to note about the Light Reflecting Luminizers is that the refills have plastic mesh backing, so the product is not housed in a pan. I could try to attach a metal sticker to the bottom, but I just store mine within the original refill packaging and not an empty magnetic palette.

That’s all for today. I hope you enjoyed reading and visiting this blog!

-Lili

YSL Blush Honey Moon (new), Bronzer, and Limited Edition Loveshine Review

I’ve had these products for several months, so I decided I may as well combine them into one review!

Yves Saint Laurent Make Me Blush Bold Blurring Powder Blush in 12 Honey Moon

YSL started off the year releasing three additional shades to their powder blush line. I first reviewed Peachy Nude, Restless Rosé, and Nocturnal Nude HERE. Then, I discussed Rose Haze and Spicy Berry HERE. My versions of Nude Lavalliere and Berry Bang came from the brand’s first face palette in Golden Oasis HERE.

Although I have plenty of the brand’s blushes already, I have an especially hard time resisting the ones in their shimmer finish. So, I purchased this while at a slight discount via Flaconi.
There are technically only shimmer/satin and matte finishes listed in the Make Me Blush Bold Blurring Blush line, but among the shimmers there are a few as sheer as highlighters such as 69 Lavender Lust and another of the three new ones called 10 Stardust Love.

Before we move onto the review, I feel it’s necessary to point out that YSL has already released a number 12 blush, but it’s called Nocturnal Nude. I assumed the duplicate number was a typo or simply an oversight, seeing as how there are at least 18 shades in the range, plus a few in the liquid formula as well. It’s not unbelievable that there could be a mixup. However, Nocturnal Nude was one of the blushes that did not get released at every retailer. In fact, I’m not even sure if it ever launched in the US. I had heard people living in the US had to get theirs from Selfridges in the UK. As for Germany, the only two places I can confirm had Nocturnal Nude was Flaconi and the YSL-Deutschland website. Nocturnal Nude was removed from Flaconi’s website and it has been listed as out of stock at YSL for at least six months.
So, it seems as if that blush has been discontinued. It’s still a strange choice to reuse the number, even though Honey Moon is basically an amped up version of the shade in terms of depth, shimmer, and pigmentation levels.

I’m pleased with this new addition, but I hope YSL will consider making a deep brown-pink nude shade someday, since we already have three that lean orange.

In the second photo, I changed my eyeshadow crease shade and added the YSL Loveshine on my lips.

The majority of the blushes in this line are pigmented, but the lighter shades are unsurprisingly easier to control. Honey Moon isn’t as intensely pigmented as Spicy Berry (which could appear patchy in specific circumstances), but I still need to apply it lightly. Unlike many blushes that just need an wispy brush to build up the product slowly, the consistency of the blush powder is on the thicker side. To ensure the best application, I use brushes that have both an airy and medium dense section of the brush (for instance 3D styles or angled brushes). This way, it can pick up and apply a small amount of product from the looser side, but the other part of the brush has decent buffing power. My rephr Kōyō brush has always been perfect for that, but I can even use the Hakuhodo G6440 if I only do a single tap into the blush surface before buffing the color all over. Using a loose brush to apply with and switching to a buffing brush to blend it in works too.

Of the blushes I own, Spicy Berry and Nocturnal Nude are definitely satins because they have a sheen, but the shimmer particles aren’t as easy to see after being blended in. Restless Rosé has more obvious shimmer, as does Honey Moon. As long as I keep my blush layer of Honey Moon sheer, and especially if I use a blurring and/or finishing powder on top, texture isn’t as emphasized. So, I don’t mind this shade being so shimmery.

Other than being mindful about which brush is used, I don’t have any other issues with Honey Moon. It has good longevity and no added parfum. It just comes down to preferences whether someone will like this or not.

Yves Saint Laurent All Hours Hyper Bronze in #5

After getting the Golden Oasis palette with its blushes and highlighters, I couldn’t let go of the feeling that if I bought the bronzer, that would be the last face powder product from YSL that I cared to test out. Curiosity finally got the better of me and I caved.

Based on the countless reviews I saw, I knew the current darkest shade was my only option. #5 in the pan looks like it will be quite dark, but packing on the product still results in a fairly sheer application. It having a very thin consistency aids in its buildable nature.
I was relieved to see the hype surrounding this bronzer wasn’t exaggerated. The matte airbrush finish is akin to the Victoria Beckham Beauty and Charlotte Tilbury bronzers, though YSL’s is slightly drier looking than them on my face. It also leans red, but thankfully isn’t overly red to the point that I wouldn’t want to use it. Still, I’d prefer if the brand had a shade extension with a deep golden option.
I heard someone say that YSL’s pressed powder range goes even deeper than the bronzers, so I once considered using that as a bronzer, but I decided not to try that out of fear that the color could be even more sheer.

Bronzer vs Completed Look

I’ve had no longevity issues with the product. It’s blendable and doesn’t require any special brushes. If I want to maintain that sheer quality, I use my airy brushes. If I want maximum color payoff, like in the photo above on the left, I use a denser brush.
It being sheer makes it prone to being easily covered up by a bold blush or toned down too much by my finishing powders, so I have to keep that in mind.

I don’t believe I’ve posted a new bronzer ranking for 2025, but based on my list from 2024, I would possibly rank this above Vieve as a new #13.

Yves Saint Laurent Loveshine Candy Glaze Holiday Collection in 22 Shimmer Rose (Medium Pearlescent Pink).

I like the YSL Candy Glazes, but I made a mistake in assuming the 2025 limited edition shimmer lippie would be the same formula as the shimmer one from 2024, which is actually a Loveshine Lipstick. That 2024 Holiday Loveshine has a wonderful emollient yet balmy consistency, but the shade of pink is quite bold and bright on me. I was too overly excited about this more natural looking color to check which line it was actually from.

The way Shimmer Rose looks in the tube in the leftmost photo is a bit too warm, but my reason for posting it was just to show how much smaller the shimmer particles look compared to Pink Desire.

I found it interesting that Shimmer Rose is even stickier than the permanent Candy Glazes and it still isn’t as natural looking on me because the shade looks even more cool toned compared to my warm undertone. Although it turns more bubble-gum pink than I wanted, I consider Shimmer Rose to be more wearable on me than Pink Desire. Besides the photo below, I’m also wearing it in the photo on the right side in the blush section.

As seen in the arm and lip swatches, there are chunkier pieces that come onto the lips when first applied, but they can be smoothed out nicely and evenly. My other Candy Glazes don’t swatch like this, but rubbing my lips together a few times makes it a non-issue.

I don’t feel any graininess from the shimmer, this has a light fruity scent, and the stickiness extends the time that I have a moisture barrier gripping my lips. Even if I wipe my lips with a wet paper towel, the sticky residue persists, so oil is the easiest way to remove it completely.

I can, and have, used this a few times in the center of my lips to boost the gloss level of other lip products. However, I still don’t use this enough to be able to say this was a good purchase for me. It honestly wasn’t, but at least the packaging is beautiful!

I will do my best to be better informed when this year’s limited edition lip products launch towards the end of the year. Then again, I’m supposed to be on a lip product no-buy, so maybe I should avoid it altogether!

That’s all for today! Bis dann!

-Lili

Lisa Eldridge Liquid Silk Shade Extension (Mimi) and Betty Kitten Pouch

I’m a huge fan of the Liquid Silk product as an eyeshadow primer. It has enough coverage to conceal the discoloration around my eyes, but the shade Phoebe doesn’t alter the colors of the eyeshadows I put on top all that much.
As standalone eyeshadows, they look smoothing and non-drying on the lids. I have enough time to blend out the edges before it fully sets and it mixes well with other shades. It doesn’t crease, doesn’t fade, and stays put very well in my deepest eye wrinkle/crease.

I was so excited to buy Mimi because I figured it would go very well with neutral and green eyeshadows that are my go-to kind of looks lately. However, I did not expect it to look so brownish-grey with a slight tinge of green. The weirdest part though is that my cell phone camera makes the swatch look way more green than it is in person. It was driving me absolutely crazy! The eye swatches were accurate, but every arm swatch looked so green! I can’t explain how my phone could capture the color on the applicator correctly, but not the swatch within the same photo!

After trying to photograph Mimi in different lighting conditions, the two below are the best I could get. The one on the left is closest to how the color looks on my eyes. The one on the right (where I blocked out light from shining on the swatch directly) is closest to how it’s supposed to look on my arm.

How it looks on the eyes is the most important part to show, which is at least accurate.

Even though Mimi looks different than what I expected and wanted, it’s such an unusual shade of brown that I actually like it!

At this point in time, I now have the shades Mimi, Phoebe (my second tube of it), and Gaia. As interesting as I find some of the other colors, I don’t use liquid eyeshadows enough to justify adding more. The only reason I used up Phoebe is because it has been my main primer of choice throughout 2025.

In my initial review, I added an update about the stopper problem and how I started to struggle with reaching the product within 3-6 months of use before I removed the stopper entirely. I was correct in guessing that I had finished half of Phoebe within the first six months, and I used up the remainder in another six months.
I was worried Phoebe would dry out quicker after removing the stopper, so I was careful to not leave the cap off for too long between uses. It was only in the final two months that the product got noticeably drier. So, I will repeat this strategy if the issue reoccurs with my other Liquid Silks. Gaia is my oldest one, but I still haven’t used up that much of it.

As for the Betty Kitten Pouch, it’s just as soft as Lisa Eldridge’s other velvet pouches, and it’s nice to have the taller shape. I couldn’t resist!

The Betty Pouch is free with orders over $125 (or €108), but I purchased it outright for €35.

Anyway, that was my quick review/update! I hope this has been helpful!

-Lili

MAC Metamorphosis Face and Eye Palette

If you’re already familiar with my blog and my interests, you’ll know right away that I wanted this palette for the packaging. I love how the design appears to be a simple, yet pretty, black and white drawing until it is turned at different angles in the light, revealing all the colors of the rainbow.

MAC’s face and cheek products have always been among my favorites in my makeup collection, but I tend to be unimpressed by their eyeshadows. The last palette I tried from MAC was the Lunar Luck Made My Fortune Eyeshadow Palette from 2022. Since then, the brand has reformulated their eyeshadows. I hear they perform better than before, but I was unwilling to take that chance until now.

Technically, the latest single eyeshadow I’ve tried from MAC has been their Jelly Shine Eyeshadow, but it’s a new formula for them. So, I couldn’t use that as a gauge for whether or not I’d enjoy their standard eyeshadows.

Frankly, I can’t consider this palette an example of what MAC’s primary eyeshadow formula is like either because these are so different from anything I’ve previously experienced from them! To start with, these don’t feel like traditional powder eyeshadows. They all have a very slick and smooth feel to the touch that’s prevalent in dimethicone-heavy formulas.
Daft Pink, Lavender Lemonade, and Cherry Sangria in particular are more pliable as if they’re slightly stiffer Colourpop Super Shocks. Lavender Lemonade is the closest to having a Super Shock consistency because it’s the one that’s easy to push and move around.
On the box, it’s written that the ingredients for Cherry Sangria and Daffodillionaire are supposed to be the same, and that Daft Pink, Hot Honey, Lavender Lemonade and Calypso Coral are the same. Considering the fact that I find Daffodillionaire, Hot Honey, and Calypso Coral to be the firmer ones instead, I cannot fathom why the slippery, yet more solidly pressed, eyeshadow is in the same category as the looser goopier one. The photo below shows how messy this gets after just one day.

I have to thank Nikki for pointing out that other than Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, this palette and MAC’s Shadeshift Chrome Eyeshadow formula seem to be the same.

What I found from checking a few ingredient lists on MAC’s website (which tend to be incomplete), is that the formula with the second-most ingredients in common to these are the Jelly Shine eyeshadows with 6 out of 13 shared. However, the Jelly Shine are still much more similar to MAC’s standard shimmer/metallic formula than the ones in the Metamorphosis Palette with around 12 out of 17 in common.

These eyeshadows are pigmented, but they blend out in such a way that I get some translucency and can see my skin underneath. I can build them up to be opaque if I want, but it takes a lot more effort with a brush. This formula is much more suited to finger-application.
Since none of these are matte, I instinctively want to apply them to my eyes with my fingers anyway. The problem is that the smallest petal-shaped pans are more difficult to get into. Plus, the blush type of shades (Hot Honey and Cherry Sangria) can look a bit patchy in the first layers with a brush, so the issue is exacerbated if I try to apply those to my cheeks with my fingers. The Singe Beauty FO-3 and Rephr LC02 are small cheek brushes, but I still have to be careful about accidentally picking up some of the neighboring eyeshadows.

Daffodillionaire is my kind of highlighter shade, so I was pleased to know it suits me on my face and eyes. Even though these are buildable formulas that can be sheered out, I imagine this would be too dark for those with lighter skin and too warm for those with a cool undertone.
On my eyes, it’s just light enough to add brightness. On my face, it draws more attention to texture, but the lack of shimmer makes it still fairly smooth looking for a highlighter.

Hot Honey is easy to see on my eyes, but the color tone doesn’t stand out as vividly on my cheeks. I like this though, because too many orange blushes are bold and unnatural looking on me. That being said, I still prefer a flush of pink, so I either skip using this shade as blush altogether or I mix it with Calypso Coral.

Daft Pink is an iridescent type of pink, along with being more topper-like than the other shades. It takes more effort to build it up on my eyes, and especially as a highlighter on my cheeks. This shade looks quite pretty paired with Calypso Coral, but if I add enough layers to see the color and have the shine from it stand out more than the amount Calypso Coral already has, then I start to notice a slightly frosty white cast on my skin.

Calypso Coral has a sheer quality to it that requires multiple layers, but over-applying this dark color will result in it looking too intense and metallic as well. So, finding that balance every time for blush usage can be a challenge. I have a similar problem with it showing up on my eyes, and though wetting my brush serves to make it easier to deposit the product, it doesn’t do much intensifying. When I accidentally covered some of Calypso Coral with Hot Honey on my eyes, it was very difficult to get that red tone back, as there is a maximum to how many layers can be built on each other. A wet brush helped, but not a lot.

Lavender Lemonade is the other topper-style shade, but it has more pigment than Daft Pink. Because it’s a light purple with blue-purple shimmer, I find it to be the most interesting pan of product in the palette. This and Cherry Sangria are the only ones I’d use exclusively as eyeshadows, and not face products, which is probably why MAC chose to put them in the smaller pans. I could see this being a cool highlighter for someone who likes more adventurous or avant garde type of looks. The official MAC website has some intriguing spring-inspired editorial looks that I might want to recreate when it’s actually spring time, but not right now.

I like Cherry Sangria as a deepening shade for the outer corner in eye looks. It’s easier for me to use my finger with this as an eyeshadow, but when I’ve tried to wear it as eyeliner, it took too many passes over the lash lines with a dry liner brush. So, I go in right away with a damp brush to save time.

Wearing Hot Honey and Calypso Coral on my cheeks makes me think about how I really should start using my MAC Extra Dimension Blushes again. The Extra Dimension ones give more color payoff quicker, and have a similar amount of shine. However, the Metamorphosis shades have a subtler look overall because the consistency is creamier and blends better into my foundation. The reflect isn’t a natural-looking glow, but it looks better blended into my skin.
The Metamorphosis pigment level reminds me a bit of MAC’s discontinued Sheertone Shimmer Blush formula, but those had a more obvious powder look even if the shades themselves were more muted and less opaque.

I get at least six hours of wear time for the Metamorphosis products on my cheeks and eyes before the fading starts. It holds up better on my eyes if I use an eyeshadow primer, but I just accept that my makeup is going to look more muted before the day is over.
Also, at some point in the day, the product will be missing from the inner part of my crease line.

So, this doesn’t have the best longevity. The shades still need to be built up on me. I have to use specific brushes or dig my fingers in the pans, and it’s inevitable that I will dirty the outer rim and the edges that divide the shades. Despite these inconveniences, I’m happy with this product!

Typically, I don’t find spring collections to be appealing because light shades, especially pastels, are difficult for me to pull off. Springs shades also tend to be in cool or neutral tones, similar to the kind of spring looks I did in my Wedding Makeup post. However, there were enough warm shades in the Metamorphosis Palette, and deeper colors, to make me feel like this is actually suited to me. I thought for sure that the face and eye aspect would be a gimmick, but this really is quite versatile. I don’t think it’s going to be great for everyone, but maybe others will appreciate that it’s a little different from what is typically released for spring.

I had an unredeemed birthday discount code from Douglas (in January), so I figured it would be a nice gift to myself. I know for sure that I’m only going to reach for this palette in the winter to spring set of months, but I’ve never regretted getting the first set of Oden’s Eye holiday palettes that I now only really use in the month of December. That’s still more attention than I give plenty of other palettes in my makeup collection!

I hope this review has been helpful! Thank you for reading!

-Lili

Victoria Beckham Beauty Orchid Eye Wardrobe (First Impression)

I’ve been working on a Victoria Beckham Beauty brand review (coming in March or April), but today’s post is a quick demonstration of the new Orchid palette in action, along with swatches.

For a more detailed and thorough review, please keep an eye out for that upcoming VB Beauty post.

Victoria Beckham Beauty Eye Wardrobe in Orchid

I imagine the Satin Kajal Liner in the shade Orchid would pair very well with this palette, but Fig is the type of color I would wear more often, so I bought that instead.

I have swatches for those curious how similar or not the shimmer eyeshadow from the Orchid Palette is compared to the Tea Rose Lid Lustre. Tea Rose has more purple compared to Shade 4, which is more of a Rose Gold.

I may as well share swatches of all the kajals I own, but the review for them will be in that upcoming post.

I’ve talked about the brand’s shipping in the past, which has always been fast. This time was ridiculously quick! I placed my order on Tuesday, just one hour after the V-Suite email came in, and my parcel arrived at 9 am the next day! That’s just 25 hours!
Because it arrived so fast and I just got hit with a cold today, I wanted to get these pictures and post them as fast as possible while I still have energy. Otherwise, I probably would not have been able to post this for a long time.

So, that’s everything for today! I just wanted to take the time to thank the person who used my referral link from my previous VBB post. In addition to them getting 20% off, I was able to get this order of the refill and two kajals discounted for 20% off too! So, thank you very much!

*UPDATE FEBRUARY 23, 2026: Another person used my referral link and I was notified by the brand that if someone uses a drop-shipping method to do so, it will lead to your own account being terminated. I do not recommend that anyone participate in their program considering the risks it puts your own account because of someone else’s actions. I will discuss this more in my upcoming brand review.

Thank you to everyone else who visits/follows this blog. I’m honored that you take the time to read my posts and I hope they continue to be helpful!

-Lili

Sweed Beauty Brand Review: 5 Bestsellers Tested

I heard great things about all of the products I purchased from Sweed Beauty, but it’s hard to know what is truly a “bestseller” considering the brand put nearly every product they make on their bestsellers page! It’s pretty much just their full range of false lashes and their makeup brushes that are excluded.

Everyday Sunshine, Allfeisty, and Kackie Reviews Beauty are the only influencers I follow that talk about the brand, but none of them are anywhere close to my skin tone. Since it was extremely difficult for me to find anyone darker than tan using Sweed products, I figured sharing my photos and thoughts on the products could be helpful.
And for those living in Germany, I’ve found Sweed products on Niche-Beauty, Douglas, and Flaconi retail sites.

Side Note: I linked videos for each creator, but Kackie’s is just a lip product. I could have sworn she has talked about the mascara, foundation, and blush before. She’s the one I attribute to making me the most interested in the Glass Skin Foundation in particular, and she’s the reason I kept being curious about Sweed, but I can’t find the videos on her page. Now, I feel like I’m gaslighting myself and could be confusing Sweed with Thrive, whose products have a similar color scheme.

Working my way from the makeup I like the least to the ones I like most, let’s begin with the foundation.

Glass Skin Foundation in 11 Deep W

This shade is described as having a warm red undertone, but it looks quite yellow. Even though I always try to grab a yellow or golden foundation, the strength of that yellow is too much for me. It doesn’t help that it’s too light for me as well.

In the straight-on face photo, the half of my face without foundation looks a little redder because I had just scrubbed off makeup that I was previously wearing.

I feared shade 12 Deep N/W would be too neutral despite being described as having neutral to warm yellow undertones. Frankly, I’m not convinced that any of the shades would work for me. Between the model photos (in which 11 is too light and 12 is too dark and red), the computer generated-looking arm swatches that all appear ashy on the darker arm, the liquid swatches that even 12 looks too light, and the real swatches on the hand that is ironically missing shades 11 and 12, I had no way of knowing which one to go by.
Shade 11 had the greater discounted price between 11 and 12, so I let that be my guide.

The shade match being wrong isn’t the only reason it looks mask-like. Despite the thin and watery consistency of the foundation, it doesn’t spread as wide and easily as I expected. I had to put more on to cover my whole face. Perhaps I could get it to apply thinner and more evenly if I used a beautyblender, but I couldn’t bring myself to try additional steps since I think having the wrong shade would leave me dissatisfied no matter what. This is called the “Glass Skin” foundation, but the finish appears satin-like to me instead of wet, shiny, or truly glassy. It’s supposed to be suited for every skin type, but I disagree.

One positive aspect is that this dries down on my dry skin without requiring powder and there is very little transfer. Overall though, I don’t plan to use this foundation ever again and I wouldn’t purchase another shade if there was an expansion.
I didn’t know it at the time, but apparently customers can send photos of themselves in daylight to the brand’s email address info@sweedbeauty.com or Instagram DMs for advice with shade matching. Hopefully this will help.

The Bronzing Powder in Tan

Fans of baked gelee products will probably enjoy the texture and performance of this bronzer as much as I do. It instantly reminded me of the contour shade from Dior’s Contour & Glow Duo in 200 Diorama, Nabla’s Skin Bronzing, the Hatice Schmidt Bronzer, and from Kess. All of these products were made in Italy as well.

This is a skin-like bronzer with subtle luminosity. It’s buildable, to the point that I can at least see it on myself in person, but I cannot get it to show easily in photos. I’ve tried on three different occasions to photograph myself wearing it, and the best one is below.

Tan is the darkest of the two colors that Sweed offers and I have used so much product trying to build up that shade, that I can faintly see a dip in the pan after only a few months of sporadic use. It looks more used than the other bronzers in the photo above despite it actually containing the most amount of product at 10 grams.

The Tan shade has a little bit of a red undertone, but it looks neutral on me most of the time until I build it up as intensely as it can get.

I have no issues with blending or fading. It’s a great product. I love bronzers that have this kind of formula, but an airbrushed and blurred type of finish can outrank them. With the exception of the Nabla Skin Bronzing product (which is significantly less expensive but also harder pressed), 35 is about the standard price for a baked gelee or gel-powder hybrid type of bronzer. However, 50 is usually the starting price for the type of powder bronzer that actually blurs and is finely milled enough for me to call it the best of the best in my collection (Hermes, Charlotte Tilbury, Victoria Beckham, and so on). Even the most bronzer-obsessed person might be unwilling to spend that kind of money, so the hybrid formulas present an alternative option that still tends to be fantastic quality.

Sweed’s bronzer is $45 in the US and 45 at full price in Germany. I find that to be a little high, but I guess it can still be justified. I must admit that due to the preferred undertone and depth of the Hatice Schmidt bronzer, I prefer it over the Sweed one, and it’s conveniently 10 lower in price for 8.5 grams. Although I can recommend this as a good product, I have to acknowledge that better prices and more shade options for similar formulas of bronzer exist.

Air Blush Cream in Fancy Face

This blush has faint gold shimmer throughout, which gives the barest hint of luminosity to the cheeks. The surface of the blush feels a little creamy to the touch, but it feels completely dry on my face, as if I applied a pure powder product. It fully sets on my skin, and how long-lasting it is depends on whether or not I used specific skincare or foundation that left my skin feeling dewy. If so, then the blush starts to fade as quickly as 5-6 hours. Otherwise, on a drier base, the blush lasts a minimum of 8 hours.

Fancy Face is the darkest shade they have at the time that I’m writing this. I like to apply this blush subtly, so it doesn’t look very intense on me in the photos I take. However, it still isn’t that dark in my arm swatch. This shade is buildable, and might still work on someone within the deep skin category, but it could be ashy on someone with a rich skin tone.

Although the Sweed Blush is firmer in the pan than the Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Matte Bouncy Blush, both leave a similar finish on the skin. It’s that blurry dimethicone-matte type of look that’s become increasingly popular over the years, especially in the K-Beauty realm.

The edge that Sweed has over Rare Beauty is that tiniest bit more glow. However, it’s not radiant enough for me to be satisfied. It still looks more matte than I like, so I have to use a hydrating spray with both. Rare Beauty’s blushes are more pigmented, but apply just as smoothly. They are longer lasting and their range has more dark-skin friendly options at the price of €28 for 6.4 grams of product as opposed to Sweed’s €34 for 5 grams. The US prices are $27 vs $35. So, even if Sweed expands the range, I don’t think I’ll buy anymore. It’s not due to a lack of quality and is purely about my preferences.

Cloud Mascara in Black

This is a bit difficult to review because I know that mascara formulas can change over time. Within a few weeks or months it can become drier and harder to use. In some cases it can start off too wet, but drying over time makes it work better. They can clump more or flake more.
Essentially, how I feel about a mascara in the beginning can differ within a month or two, but I only used the Cloud Mascara for about two to three weeks prior to beginning to use the brand’s eyelash serum. The photos above were taken prior to using any lash serum and it was probably my third time wearing the mascara.

In the beginning, I thought this mascara worked fine, but I didn’t love it. It took me a while to realize that I couldn’t get as far trying to build up a very heavy first coat like I do with the majority of my favorite mascaras. Waiting for it to fully dry before adding a second coat sometimes led to it being unevenly built up, spidery, and sometimes I’d get a few clumps.

What works best for me is to build up the first layer of one set of eyelashes, repeat the process on the other eye, and by the time I’m finished I can add a second layer to my first eye before it has time to fully dry down. The end result is much more to my satisfaction and can be viewed in my Isamaya Core 1.0 Palette post, which I used the Cloud Mascara exclusively in all of the eyeshadow looks. I had been using the lash serum between 3-4 weeks when I took the pictures, but I didn’t observe any improvement from the lash serum that early. So, I feel like it’s still a good representation of the mascara’s best results on me without additional help.

This is the type of mascara that’s on the wet side, but not too wet. Since mascaras are recommended to be tossed out every 3-6 months (whether I do so or not), I only judge one by its performance up to that 3 month mark because additional changes could just be the start of it going bad. I can say that I have noticed zero differences in formula consistency within those three months.

I don’t get clumping (when I use my specific technique) and I haven’t spotted any flaking. One of the things I especially like is that my lashes don’t feel stiff after I apply the mascara. If I get an itch, I can rub my lashes with the side of my finger or nail and my lashes are still fairly soft. Many other mascaras give me a tugging sensation at the root of my lashes when I do the same thing.

The brand advertises this to be both a volumizing and lengthening mascara that keeps lashes separated and fan-like. I agree that it’s very good at separation and it adds decent volume, but my current favorites give me more length.

After completing the full round of lash serum, I definitely like how the mascara looks even more.

However, I feel like I shouldn’t factor that into my review of the mascara. Based on how it looked prior to the lash serum’s effects being visible, I can’t say that this mascara was worth €28 for me, even though it contains Panthenol (Vitamin B5) which, “improves elasticity and helps reduce breakage.” I got this mascara on sale for €21 (a little over $24), but I’m still uncertain if I will repurchase it or not. I don’t know how much of an effect the panthenol may or may not have had an impact on my lashes not breaking off. My gut tells me this mascara is overhyped. I like it, but I feel much stronger about my other mascara favorites.

If I end up changing my mind on this, I’ll update this post.

Eyelash Growth Serum – 3ml size

I owned the other Sweed products since September 2025, but I bought this serum at the end of October. Since it’s supposed to take at least 4-6 weeks for results, I decided to push back the release date for this review until I had tested it thoroughly.

I have been afraid of lash serums since the GrandeLash lawsuit when I learned about prostaglandin analogs, ingredients that are in the majority of eyelish serums and are listed under a ton of different names. I was too scared of the potential iris and eye skin darkening, eye irritation, and other side effects, to ever use one. The fact that Sweed’s serum does not contain any prostaglandin analogs is the only reason I was willing to give it a try.

Before we get into the review, I wanted to point out that the directions on the box just say, “Apply directly with a single stroke to the base of the upper eyelash.” I felt like there had to be more to it, so I watched videos of people applying it, and some put it so close to the lash line that some of it got onto their actual eyelashes. The instructions on the website stated, “Apply with the product’s applicator, using one stroke on your eyelid just above your upper lash line. Apply by starting from the outer to inner corner of the upper lash line.”

I believe the guidelines I should be most inclined to follow is on the official Sweed website. So, that is what I did after the third week, because it took me that long to look it up. I had just been following the information on the box.

At the 4 week mark, it appeared as if my eyelashes that fell were a little longer than usual, but I couldn’t see much difference on my eyes overall.
By 6 weeks, I definitely noticed fullness of my lash line. My eyelashes didn’t look longer, but they weren’t as sparse, even in my problem section of my inner lashes.
By 8 weeks, I realized my lashes were a lot more curled up, which is why I hadn’t noticed they were longer than before.
After 10 weeks, it became clear to me that the outer half of my lashes were fuller than ever and looked slightly longer than the years when my natural eyelash growth was at its peak. However, from 8 weeks and on, I accepted the fact that my natural lashes aren’t dark enough and are too curled to look long while bare. When I close one eye and look sideways, I can see how long my eyelashes are, but looking straightforward, the effects of the lash serum can’t be seen until I put on mascara.

I still wish to have more fullness in the inner lash region, but I am pleased with the improvement. Part of the difficulty for my inner lash region is the fact that I frequently rub my eyes, especially before bedtime which is when I apply the serum. I’m not sure where I heard or read the information to apply it at night. The directions on the website merely state to use this once a day without a specific time. Anyway, when I rub my eyes, I basically remove whatever lingering bit of serum hadn’t yet absorbed in my inner corners.

These are the results, with and without mascara, at the 8 week mark.

Although my eyelashes didn’t get crazy long, I can see how many more lashes stand above my crease line with mascara on compared to before. I don’t lose my eyelashes as frequently either.

The directions state to use the serum daily for 4-6 weeks, and then switch to using it 2-3 times a week for maintenance. After the initial six weeks, I continued to use it more or less on a daily basis until after the 8th week. Then, I lowered the usage to every other day or two. As for my bottom eyelashes, I have not noticed a difference, but I didn’t expect any considering I did not apply the lash serum there and the serum is not recommended for that.

The photos above are not the best representation of my mascara favorites since I had them for far too long and the last bits of mascara left in the tubes are partly dried up. However, I think my lashes still looked great!

I managed my expectations and got enough results to be happy with this product. My issue trying to regain the fullness I used to have was resolved. This product is supposed to last 3 months* and my eyelashes will return to normal if I halt using it for one month.

*I’ve been using this at a rate of around 2 months daily and 1 month every few days, yet my tube hasn’t run out. So perhaps the estimate of 3 months is if someone used it daily during that whole time or perhaps the 3 months is a minimum of how long it’ll take before the serum runs out.

This is not a cheap product. It’s sold for $55 in the US or €49 in Germany for 3ml. The 5ml tube is frequently out of stock and costs €70. I bought my 3ml at a discounted price via Flaconi for €33. At that price, I do like it enough to repurchase it considering it’s as much as a high end mascara and it makes all my mascaras look even better. A regular eyelash primer might give me even longer lashes, but it wouldn’t solve my fullness/sparse lash issues. So, I will most likely continue to make repurchases at the lower price.

I highly recommend watching Abbey Yung’s video for those curious about the serum’s ingredients, understanding how it works differently to traditional lash serums, and seeing her own results.

Overall, I have a positive impression of Sweed’s products. Their makeup is very high quality, but some of the products don’t match my specific preferences, and the shade range is a bit lacking. So, I will continue to keep an eye on this brand’s new launches and I’ll potentially purchase from them again in the future.

I hope this post has been helpful to you! Thanks for stopping by and reading!

-Lili

My Top 5 Favorite Indie Brands for Eyeshadows

Clionadh Cosmetics

I’ve loved Clionadh Cosmetics eyeshadows from the moment I first tried them at the start of 2020. Their Stained Glass Collection is ever growing, and it’s their claim to fame for good reason. Other brands have eyeshadows that use some of the same pigments and have the same shifts, but I have yet to see anyone replicate the slick “mirror finish” of the Jeweled Multichromes. I was never a big fan of iridescent eyeshadows because of the way they can look dusty and dry on my skin tone, but Clionadh thought about those with more melanin and created the Deep Iridescent Multichromes with different colored bases (instead of white) to fix this problem. They created Glitter and Dimensional Multichromes for people that adore having maximum, but still eye safe, sparkle. Vibrant and Electric Multichromes are for true color lovers. Earth Vibrant Multichromes are for those that prefer muted tones, but still want easy-to-see color shifts. There are even combination types such as Glitter-Vibrants and Hybrids.

Clionadh has multichromes to suit everyone’s tastes.

As I mentioned before, the brands get their multichrome pigments from basically the same place, but Clionadh has perfected the art of combining them with various base colors to create a decent amount of eyeshadows that haven’t been duped. So, there are still some that are completely unique colors.

There are some duochromes within the Stained Glass line, but they also exist in the “standard circle” format, along with more traditional shimmer eyeshadows. These are less expensive and I find them to still be very nice quality. The mattes weren’t perfect, but I still like them when they used to be sold individually.

The only reason I haven’t talked about Clionadh as much within the last year is because of the difficulty I have in getting products in Germany. Their website doesn’t collect VAT/taxes/customs, so DHL (who did the final part of the delivery) demanded exact cash payment in person (which included the missing VAT plus their fee), without letting me know the amount in advance. If I want to know ahead of time, I would have to pay the $42 (36 Euro) shipping option on top of the VAT and extra fees, which I just haven’t felt was worth the added costs. I hope Clionadh will work out some kind of deal with Monolith EU again, as that would certainly make things easier for me!

I have some Clionadh eyeshadows that are getting close to turning six years old. Some of them don’t feel quite as smooth and creamy, but they still perform beautifully and haven’t gone bad yet. I’ve had eyeshadows that didn’t even last beyond a year (admittedly mostly vegan eyeshadow formulas like from KVD, Urban Decay, Coloured Raine’s different formula, etc).
So, that makes me happy considering how expensive Clionadh eyeshadows can be. If you take four of Clionadh’s most expensive eyeshadows, it would be slightly more expensive than many luxury brand quads (but justifiable in price considering they’d be all multichromes).

Clionadh has a relatively small team, and I respect the fact that they make their eyeshadows in-house in Canada.

Oden’s Eye

Oden’s Eye is a favorite because they have every type of powder finish eyeshadow I could want: multichromes, duochromes, sparkly shimmers, smooth metallics, pastels, and just lots of colors in interesting tones. The variety is great and the quality is mostly good. Some palettes are randomly not as good, and I can’t explain why. For instance, I like the colors in Makeup Just For Fun’s palette, but the shadows were more powdery and the shimmers are thinner. I can only guess it’s due to what the creator requested of the formula. Fantasy Cosmetica has shimmers and mattes on par with Odens Eye, but I get 1 or 2 duds from the 9-pan palettes I’ve tried, which isn’t the case for my top 5 Odens Eye palettes. So, Fantasy Cosmetica ranks lower for that reason.

These shadows are also more suited for color lovers, but Oden’s Eye tries to appeal to neutral and color lovers by giving softer and non-grungy options sometimes within the palettes.

It’s a Swedish brand, but their eyeshadows are made in the PRC.

Fantasy Cosmetica

This is the brand I have the least experience with, as I only started buying their palettes in 2024. However, I love the color offerings among all the palettes and their theming. Even when they make brown shades, there’s nothing basic about them. They have very interesting tones. The Fighter Palette is a dream for those that prefer glam style neutral eyeshadows. Pat Mcgrath fans would probably like them, but the quality isn’t quite as refined as PML’s. The big price difference puts that in perspective!
Some of their eyeshadows/pressed pigments are ultra vibrant. They’re all pigmented and opaque shadows. Most of them blend well. I usually have at least one troubleshade shade in every palette, but it’s rarely one of the shadows I was looking forward to using anyway.
This brand does cater mostly to color-lovers, and they’re known for their intense shimmers, but I even like some of their smoother satin shades too. They find a way to make the toned down shadows appealing for me.

I believe these eyeshadows are made in the PRC.

Devinah Cosmetics

Devinah has my second favorite multichrome and duochrome formula, but their normal shimmers are just okay, which is why the brand doesn’t rank higher overall. Their mattes are also decent, but not the easiest to blend and use. In fact, they probably have the “worst” mattes of all the brands I’m mentioning in this post. However, they don’t make pre-made palettes, so customers can skip buying their mattes altogether.

I started purchasing from them in April 2020, and all but one eyeshadow (it’s a discontinued formula) is still in perfect condition. The performance, look, and feel of the shadows hasn’t changed. So, I can confirm mine have good preservatives in them!

It’s because of the fact that I had to acknowledge their multichromes and duochromes as coming second to Clionadh that I stopped buying from them in early 2022. However, to still maintain that number two spot is impressive. The custom palette I created with mostly Devinah shades has come with me on several trips and there are shades I’ve used in there even more frequently than Clionadh. So, if you live in the US and are dealing with the tariff situation, this could be a nice US-based brand to check out.

I don’t know if all of Devinah’s eyeshadows are made in-house, and if only some of their catalogue isn’t made in a lab, but I can confirm that at least the mattes are made by them.

Sydney Grace

Sydney Grace isn’t really in the multichrome game with powder eyeshadows, but they have a gigantic selection of standard shimmer eyeshadows in unique tones. They have many colorful sparkling eyeshadows, but the brand puts a lot of focus on natural/neutral and more muted types of shades. They also have a lot of satins that appeal to fans of luxury eyeshadows who prefer a smoother texture-friendlier look, but just crave more pigment than most luxury eyeshadows provide.
The Sydney Grace eyeshadows are pigmented, opaque, and also thick. I like my finished eye looks with them, but I tend to prefer my even more blingy, shiny, and exciting eyeshadows from other brands. Also, their mattes are pretty good. They are almost on the same level as Odens Eye, but Sydney Grace’s best mattes are typically in boring colors I can get from any brand. So, I tend to not use them.

Sydney Grace eyeshadows are made in the USA. I’m fairly sure they made their own eyeshadows and formula in the early days. I don’t know whether they have continued to make them in-house.


I have three honorable mentions.

For starters, Melt Cosmetics is technically an indie brand, but I have seen their products available at different retailers and they seem to be a much bigger business, so I have a hard time putting them in the same category. Considering how many huge sales I’ve seen in the last three years, and the lack of interest from among beauty lovers, I honestly wonder how long they will stay in business. In any case, the brand’s mattes are in my top 10 favorites. I love the colors, tones, pigment level, layerability and blendability. The shimmers are okay at best. They have such a big issue with mold or things growing on other people’s palettes that I always feel uncomfortable recommending the palettes, even though mine have been fine.

The second honorable mention is Kaleidos. I haven’t tried many of their palettes, but I loved the mattes in Club Nebula and Futurism 1: Sci-Fi Green. The shimmers are nice, but not super special. I can’t include them on the list because I haven’t tried any of their “newer” eyeshadows in the quad format, and it’s only recently that they launched their first new products in the last two years. So, it’s been quite a few years in total since I’ve been interested in their eyeshadows.

Terra Moons is an honorable mention mainly to address the fact that I’ve often said their multichromes are my third favorite formula. However, the normal shimmer and matte quality pulls them below being in my favorite indie brands. There is also the fact that I hardly use my Terra Moons shadows because I think to myself, “Why use these when I could use my Clionadh and Devinah?” So, I only use the shades I don’t have a close match for in the other brands, but then I think about how the eyeshadows made by the others are still good enough and I don’t need this unique one! The mattes I bought from Terra Moons are unique to my collection, but I wish the quality was better. So, I can’t call this brand a favorite if I don’t use them.

This isn’t an honorable mention, but I feel compelled to explain that I like Lethal Cosmetics a lot as a brand and I respect what they create. Their eyeshadow formula is a bit chunky. The multichromes are on the weaker side. The mattes are fine. I like the eyeshadows with uncommon tones, but I just don’t think about them often enough. I feel like I’ve moved on from their eyeshadow formulas.

So, this is my list! I hope this is helpful to fans of small independent businesses, and to anyone curious as to which brands to start with if you’re trying to move away from paying for mainstream eyeshadows.

This is one of the posts I’ve held as a backup. I have a lot going on in my personal life, plus with the holidays. So, this will likely be my last post of 2025. I wish you a happy holiday season and I hope to see you in the New Year!

-Lili

Discontinued and Limited Edition Products That Should Make A Comeback

Three years ago, I created a post called 10 Things I Purchased Purely For the Packaging. These were items I loved, even though in most cases I hadn’t even used the makeup inside.
My typical gauge for determining whether a product had been worth buying in the long run, is to calculate how frequently I use it. So, those items in the post should have fallen into the category of purchases I regretted, but they didn’t.

Keeping my Project Pan and Low Buys in mind, there have been so many times in my reviews this year that I’ve written, “I like this, but I could have skipped buying it,” or “this doesn’t add much to my collection.”
This has been my attempt to counterbalance some of the hype out there and help others feel less FOMO over things that aren’t as special in person. However, there are still products from time to time that I acknowledge as something I’m still glad I bought, even though I won’t get much use out of them.

My purpose for this post is to feature the products in my collection that are no longer available to purchase, but they had such good formulas that I wish everyone could have tried them. These are products that if I had a much smaller makeup collection, or if the shades were perfect, I probably could have hit pan on them.

Essentially, I want to focus on makeup that still brings me joy to own, even if I stopped using them today. In doing this, I hope it will serve as a reminder to myself of what kind of products ended up being worth it to me under different criteria.

I won’t be including items from defunct brands, or else Becca’s Skin Perfectors and Bite Beauty lipsticks would be on this list.

Armani Neo Nude Melting Color Balm BlushesOriginal Review

This launch is still one of the weirdest I’ve ever experienced. From Armani barely giving these any promotion, the consistency of each shade being different, one of the pans falling out, retailers getting only certain shades and them being added and removed within days from websites, etc.
However, the best formula (which was for Shade 30), was so creamy, blendable, and truly melted into the skin. The range of colors were subdued and natural, which is actually not as common to find, especially for those with dark skin.

Initially, I thought the reason Armani put hardly any effort into marketing these was because of a combination of formula production issues (Shade 60 was hard as a rock) and low inventory (not even Armani’s site ever had all nine in stock at the same time).
Upon reflection, these blushes were released around the same time as Suqqu’s Melting Powder Blushes, which the brand announced shortly after would be discontinued due to raw materials shortage.
The shades between Armani and Suqqu were not dupes, but at least close enough for me to notice similarities, not just with their names. They might not have been made by the same lab (Armani’s were made in Korea vs Suqqu’s in Japan), but perhaps they shared some of the same ingredients with sourcing issues.

It may be foolish, but I still have hope that Armani will reformulate these and bring them back. If they don’t, I am at least happy that I have a few in my collection as a reminder of this product’s strange place in makeup history!

Pat McGrath Skin Fetish: Ultra Glow Highlighter (Divine Rose) – Showcased Here

Excluding the Skin Fetish Sublime Skin Highlighter (aka The Hockey Puck), I have tried every Pat Mcgrath highlighter formula. The one above is the best they’ve ever made, but it was limited edition and only came in one shade.

There are a lot more baked gelee products available these days, so perhaps I should just be content with the few I have that are a better shade match for me. However, I think it’s normal for someone to want a holy grail product to be made by their favorite brand because it’s their favorite brand.

This may be a strange analogy, but if we put this in terms of Harry Potter (and let’s leave the conversation about JK Rowling aside), if someone gave me Hufflepuff merch, I would be happy because it’s something from the world of Harry Potter. If someone gave me Ravenclaw merch, I would be even happier and more excited because Ravenclaw is my favorite of the Houses within Harry Potter, so it has overall more value and meaning for me.
Even though I own Tom Ford’s Shade and Illuminate Highlighting Duo in Tanlight, which is super close to the quality and performance of Pat Mcgrath’s Divine Rose highlighter, I would still absolutely love my perfect shade to come from Pat Mcgrath. Not only was hers less expensive than Tom Ford’s, but it also comes in a compact I consider to be prettier. The other highlighters from PML are nice, but if someone asks me to recommend the most standout products from the brand, it wouldn’t be them. It’s a shame that their best highlighter formula could only be experienced by a small range of people. The current Pat Mcgrath highlighters are likely less expensive to make and they’re certainly easier for other brands to replicate.

Pat Mcgrath Baked Blushes (from the Bridgerton 2 Blushing Delights Blush + Highlighter Palette) – Original Review

I honestly believe the only reason this product flopped was because it came in bulky packaging. Even I felt the need to depot the blushes and highlighter!

What’s disappointing about us never getting additional blush shades, or even singles of the blushes, is that PML could have competed with Hourglass on the baked blush front. With the exception of At Night, I like PML’s Aphrodisia more than all of the Ambient Lighting ones from Hourglass. I continue to buy Hourglass holiday palettes each year because I like their baked products, so imagine if Pat Mcgrath gave us the kind of colors I am still itching for Hourglass to make, and in a gorgeous shimmery finish that I prefer. I would buy them so fast!

The Hourglass At Night blush is the only baked blush to make it into my Project Pan (of favorite products). The reason Aphrodisia didn’t is because I didn’t have it at the time. I left it in the US out of fear of breaking the delicate powder in my luggage. I also assumed PML’s baked blushes would eventually make a return in normal palettes or single form.
I’ve given up that dream by now, so I finally have Aphrodisia back with me (as of April 2025).
My reason for bringing this up is that I am not a baked blush lover (not including baked gelee). I often have a problem with them looking too pearly on my skin and/or too dry. I only like specific shades of MAC’s Mineralize Blushes. Ilia’s Soft Focus Blurring Blush has potential, but they don’t have the exact tones of the kind of shades I like. Sephora was onto something with their Microsmooth Baked Blushes, but they don’t have a lot of shade options either. So, the fact that PML had my favorite, but kept an entire formula limited edition is truly unfortunate!

I’m sure there will be people surprised that PML’s baked special eyeshadows are not on this list, but I don’t enjoy their flaky texture. I liked them being in the palettes because it felt like their presence justified the cost, and the finished looks on the eyes were beautiful, but I didn’t enjoy actually using them. So, I don’t mind them being gone.

Natasha Denona Mini GoldQuick Review

This palette represents everything I love about eyeshadows. There’s the brow and edge-blending neutral shade, a deepening shade in a stunning brown color, a beautiful gold, a wearable green, and a fun dimensional shimmer. It’s versatile enough because I can create multiple types of eye looks, it’s in a mini size which keeps the cost of the palette low, and the gold toned trim makes it aesthetically pleasing to look at. I can use the gold for an intense sparkly look or keep things subtle by sticking with the mattes and dark satin brown. The eyeshadows are blendable, buildable, and soft. They last all day without fading, have a normal amount of kickup, I don’t get much fallout (I just need to spray the gold), and there’s no creasing. There’s a reason this ranked at the top of my Natasha Denona Palette Post.

I don’t wear makeup enough days out of the week to have hit pan on this or any of the eyeshadows in my collection, but I can see where there are indents.
Anyone who has the Bobbi Brown Jadestone palette might not need something like this, and this year has been the year of the green eyeshadow. The Mini Gold color story isn’t as unique, but that shade Antheia still is! That color is one of my favorite greens in my entire collection, so this is why I wish this color story hadn’t been discontinued.
Mini Gloom might actually be a better mini representation of the original Gold Palette, but Mini Gold is still the best suiting color story for me from ND.

Huda Beauty Glowish BronzerFeatured Review

I said I wouldn’t include defunct brands on this list, but because Glowish was under the Huda Beauty umbrella, I’m allowing it. I assume they own the rights to the formula and could still bring it back if they wanted to, but who knows. I’m not sure if these sold well enough to make a return.

What I liked about these bronzers were the tones and depths available, the colorful swirl pattern (which added to the ability to slightly tailor the shade), and the fact that these felt and performed similar to baked gelee powders, even though they weren’t. I liked this formula more than so many other traditional powder bronzers. It was priced at $31, but they released a few shades of mini sizes when the brand was nearing its end.

From what I recall, people who tried these liked them, though I don’t know if they liked them to the same level as me. Had these been in higher end packaging, I think they still would have been better received. Perhaps even a wider shade range or different combination of swirl colors could have gotten more people to like these. This product had so much potential!

Chanel Blush Lumière in Brun Roussi – Featured Review

I’ve reviewed blushes from seven different Chanel collections, and this one consists of my favorite formula (tied with the Joues Contraste Intense Cream to Powder blush). It is a little harder to pick up with a delicate natural hair brush, but my densely packed fox and goat ones work wonderfully. This is one of Chanel’s more pigmented blushes, but the amount of powder that coats my brush enables me to build up the color in a controlled fashion, so I never overdo it.

This lasts all day on my cheeks without fading. I love the deep red-brown color and that gorgeous warm gold finish. Nowadays, it’s uncommon for Chanel to give us a shimmery blush. So many of the ones intended for those with deeper skin tones have been orange and berry colors. There is actually a void that the return of this blush would fulfill. There are so few deep nude blush colors, and even fewer that are still available for purchase.

I don’t own the blush called Brun Rouge from the brand’s permanent line, but based on photos I saw on Temptalia’s website, it’s the closest option Chanel currently has. To me, this isn’t a good enough substitute because the finish is matte, it’s slightly lighter, and I have found the formulation of Joues Contraste Blushes to get harder to pick up on my brush after a year or two. My Lumiere blush still works perfectly three years later. So, it’s the superior formula.

Even if Chanel decides not to rerelease this particular color, I would still love to see additional dark-skin-friendly shades with this formula.

Kosas The Sun Show Moisturizing Baked Bronzer (Original Formula) – Featured Review

There was a point in time that this was my number one favorite bronzer! I was obsessed with the glowy sheen it had. I liked how well it blended into my skin. The color was a bit strong on the orange side, but I loved it anyway. So many people loved this too, but it was the strong frying oil smell that turned everyone off to this product. One of the more troubling aspects was the inability for anyone to tell when this “clean beauty” product had gone off, if it didn’t have a pleasant smell to begin with!

When Kosas reformulated these bronzers into the yellow packaging, I was disappointed by the return of the smell (just less intense) and the huge shade gap between Escape and Paradise, making my old shade in Deep (which fit right between them) still the best color match. Plus, the new ones had so much more shimmer that it was too much for me.

I love this original bronzer so much that I couldn’t bear to get rid of it, even though I’m afraid to use it. The lack of preservatives in Kosas products is the downfall of this product. I could bet money that if they fixed the smell issue, it would be a huge hit again and then more people would be willing to experience it.

*Honorable Mention #1 – Clionadh Cosmetics MattesFirst Mention

This makes the list on a technicality. Clionadh still has matte eyeshadows in some of their palettes, but they haven’t brought back their matte singles in quite a few years. The initial reason customers were given as to why the brand stopped making them was because the eyeshadows were breaking too much during transit. The eyeshadows were being hand-pressed at the time and they wanted to find a way to keep the logo embossing on the eyeshadow without compromising the stability. Eventually they bought two (I believe) pressing machines. They hired a few additional workers. I recall seeing a comment on Instagram that they were close to being able to bring them back. Well, I’m still waiting!

They didn’t have the best formula on the market, but I liked how uncommon it was. The eyeshadows were pigmented, but buildable. They were incredibly soft (probably due to how they were pressed), finely milled, and felt slightly dry yet silky. They had such interesting tones in colorful, yet muted shades. The mattes from many indie brands are fully saturated and tend to be pressed pigments, for the most intensity on the eyes. Clionadh’s mattes were thin and a little powdery, but also opaque.

*Honorable Mention #2 – Dior Powder No PowderFinalized Thoughts

I wholeheartedly believe this deserves to be on the list of makeup that should be brought back, but I didn’t want it to be featured front and center out of acknowledgement that there were a significant number of people who didn’t get on with this product. It was surprisingly polarizing, with most shoppers either absolutely loving it or thinking it was terrible.

This has been my holy grail finishing powder for so many years now. It’s the only powder I’ve ever hit pan on, let alone been close to using up completely. I’m obsessed with the amount of sheen and blurring this product is capable of producing.

I wish it had no scent, but this fragrance is at least tolerable. I think it’s pleasant.

I have backups of this powder, so I don’t have to be without it for many more years to come. However, I still consider it unfortunate that one of the greatest makeup items in my collection isn’t available for new people to be able to discover and potentially love (or hate)!

This ends today’s post. I hope it was enjoyable to read and that you’ll join me again next week!

-Lili

Isamaya Core 1.0 Eyeshadow Palette Review

Although I’ve been curious about Isamaya Beauty since its launch in 2022, this is finally my first purchase! I thought the green and brown shades from the first Industrial Palette looked pretty, but I heard mixed reviews about the formula. I also had a difficult time trying to justify the price, coming from a startup brand. So, I added it to my Anti-Haul.
By now, the Isamaya brand is a bit more established, especially since creating a line for retail stores like Sephora. I have heard the eyeshadow formula of the Core Palettes are better, and they added purples! Throw in the coupon code I could use via Niche-Beauty, and that was enough to get me to finally take the plunge!

Before we get into the review, I’d like to make it known that the information I have about Isamaya Ffrench is that she’s a makeup artist, is or was at some point the creative director at Byredo, and she had an edgy, quirky, and somewhat controversial vision for the initial Isamaya capsule collections. I don’t have any affiliations with the brand, nor personal feelings about the founder.

Isamaya Core Palette 1.0

The official numbering system of the brand begins at Fetish (my #2) and continues clockwise to end at Initiator (my #1). Then, #11-14 are the same. I did not discover this until after all my photos were taken and labeled, so this is the reason for the difference.

The first unique aspect of Core 1.0 is the emesis basin/kidney dish-shaped packaging with 14 custom eyeshadow pans. No two eyeshadow pan sizes are the same. This is well designed, and although I usually dislike non-uniform pans in palettes, the fact that the symmetry makes sense with little wasted space is why I like it. The downside is that I like to apply shimmers with my fingers, and so the smallest pans are a bit difficult to get into. It also means that shade names could not be printed on the palette directly, but at least the brand included the names on the protective sheet that was inside.

Below are some examples of palettes by Danessa Myricks Beauty, Urban Decay, and Kara Beauty that I would never buy because of the maddening eyeshadow pan layout.

When the Core palettes are turned sideways and opened, they almost look butterfly shaped!

Another uncommon feature of the Core palettes are the various consistencies and finishes of the eyeshadows. Even though nearly all are shimmers, I will discuss each shade individually because their performances on me and my experiences with them are not the same across the board.

Initiator is one of the most opaque eyeshadows in the palette, but I still wouldn’t consider it to be heavily pigmented. Medium-high pigmentation is more accurate. It’s described as a metallic green, and although it’s a warm color with pretty yellow-golden flecks, I feel this is one of the less exciting shades in the palette. It’s smooth and easy to pick up with a brush and fingers. It’s definitely not thick, but most of the eyeshadows in this palette are thinner.

Flesh is the lightest, thinnest, and sheerest shade in the palette. It’s even listed as a “loose clear shimmer.” It looks a bit frosty on my skin, but it’s still one of the better shades for me to use to brighten the inner corners of my eyes. This isn’t the type of topper that relies on having a medium or larger particle size to create an instant impact. Flesh has a small shimmer size, so adding it (dry) on top of another eyeshadow won’t show much of an effect without light hitting it. Under the right conditions, it’s twinkly in a very refined way. To make it work in all lighting situations, I wet it to intensify the white color, and that contrast gives the brighter appearance.
Now, I’m not sure if it’s solely my fingers or using a damp brush that causes this particular eyeshadow to form hardpan, but it’s easy enough to remove.

Fetish is described as a “pure ancient gold.” It’s a little less opaque than Initiator, but still less topper-like than the majority of the rest of the eyeshadows in this palette. It’s soft, a little powdery, and the darker base makes it a tad too dark for me to use as an inner corner highlight. It’s also thin enough to easily create a wash of color if a want, like how I used it in my crease in the first eye look below.

Brass is a shimmery orange-red color that looks like it’s going to be richly pigmented from how it appears in the pan, but it’s another medium opacity type of shade. I use it in a similar way as Fetish, which is to be a transition eyeshadow. Its texture is similar to Initiator and less powdery than Fetish.

The brand describes Fuel as a dark grey with green shimmer. I’ve been honestly a little disappointed by this shade because of how prominent the green looks in the palette compared to how much of the grey shows (grey in photos but it looks brown in person) on my eyes. The texture of this shade is the wettest by far and close to me considering it a cream eyeshadow. To pick up enough product on my finger, I have to practically scoop out a small amount and then smooth that over my eyelids. It looks wet and goes well with an editorial look, but it creases and breaks up terribly on me, no matter what primer I’ve used.

I can get this shade to last 5-6 hours before the crease area starts to look noticeably worn in, provided I set my primer with powder and reinforce that spot with a powder matte eyeshadow to act as the first layer the oil eats up. Using the powder trick, I can finish the day without it looking anywhere near as bad as I photographed above.
Fuel is fine on my lower lash line, but I try to keep it out of my crease where there’s too much movement.

Fuel was one of the shades I looked forward to the most because it’s like a roided up version of Natasha Denona’s Antheia, which is one of my all-time favorite eyeshadows. Antheia is a duochrome and Fuel is a multichrome. It’s quite the shame that it’s too emollient of a shade to last on me, but I’m glad Antheia is still performing beautifully all these years later!

Sweat is a purple and blue iridescent eyeshadow. It’s thin and a bit slick feeling. The color reminds me of the shade UV from Clionadh, but Sweat is way less powdery with better adherence and with an even more translucent base. I honestly feel this is a more refined and modern formula than Clionadh’s, which is the highest of praise. To be fair though, Clionadh’s formula for the Series 2 Iridescents is at least five years old.

Ultraviolet is another purple and blue eyeshadow, or more specifically, “violet with bright cyan shimmer.” It’s a gorgeous dimensional multichrome, but it doesn’t look good on me as a lid shade with such a sheer base. So, I have to use this on top of other eyeshadows or keep it to the inner corner in order for me to be happy with it.

Grip is described as a grungy iridescent green. In the daytime, it looks magenta and green. At night, I have an easier time seeing blue and a cooler-toned purple as well. It’s quite sheer and also soft to the touch. It has a similar vibe to Viridian by Clionadh, which happens to be one of their most affordable shades in the Deep Iridescent Multichrome line. Grip has stronger shifts, but takes twice as many layers to build up to the same opacity level as Viridian. I still prefer Grip because it looks green head-on, whereas Viridian leans more aqua.

The brand says that Leather is a, “smokey black putty.” I can create a small indent in the surface, like with putties, but the performance is more like a cream-to-powder. It’s drier than Natasha Denona cream-to-powders, and the black shade from Pat Mcgrath’s Bronze Bliss palette, but wetter and much better performing than the black shade from Guerlain’s Ombres G Quad in Royal Jungle. The formula is such that I can create a thin hazy veil of smoke or build it up to use as a liner in daytime looks. However, it’s not quite enough to satisfy me if I’m going for maximum drama, unless I treat it like a cake liner and dampen my brush. Also, this isn’t 100% waterproof, but there seems to be a little bit of water resistance, along with it being budge and smudge resistant once it has had a minute or two to set. It’s easy to remove though with my Bioderma micellar water.

Some of the sparkles from Ultraviolet and/or Sweat have gotten into my pan of Leather, but I haven’t noticed it effecting other looks. Those shimmer particles don’t seem to transfer easily back out.

Fhume is purple with magenta shimmer specks. I would call this one a high pigment eyeshadow that is opaque like Initiator. It’s soft and easy to pick up on my brush without being powdery. It’s not too thick in consistency, nor too thin. Fhume looks pretty in the pan, but I think it’s even nicer on the eyes.

I’m the most confused by the description of Suspension as a, “plum with soft gold shimmer,” when it looks purely silvery to me. Perhaps they mean white gold? It’s a bit thicker of an eyeshadow and grittier. I definitely need to wet this or use glitter glue. It’s one of the most glittery shades in this palette and contains slightly larger shimmer particles than the others. Even though it has a dark base, that reflect is so sparkly and bright that I can use it like a highlighting shade to amp up the overall bling level of the eye look. I’ve tried using it in the outer corner and utterly failed to create depth there.

Whip is a charcoal color with purple and silvery sparkle. It’s a bit on the grittier and drier side than the others, but still has good adhesion and spreads very well. At least, I can get it onto my eyes without it looking messy. If I want to minimize the fallout, I do still need to use either a glitter glue and/or apply it damp. Despite this having a dark base, the shimmer is so bright that I could use it all over the lid instead of condemning it to only be used in the outer corner, as can sometimes be my instinct.

Motor is a dark antique gold that flashes olive green. It’s chunky in the sense that it’s thicker than many other eyeshadows in this palette, and little parts of it crumble off when picked up, but it’s too emollient feeling for me to call it crumbly. I like this color, but I wish it looked even more olive.

If Heat is a, “champagne with green shimmer,” just note that it has a warmer undertone than most eyeshadows that are referred to as champagne. It’s super thin, very sheer, and a little dry. It goes from a yellowish color to looking green under the light, but it doesn’t have as strong of a shimmery reflect as the majority of the other shades. It’s like a duochrome satin.

I figured I could create monochromatic all-shimmer looks that I liked, but I was surprised to see how many variations of eyeshadow pairings I enjoyed using together from Core 1.0.
The avant-garde makeup aesthetic isn’t really for me, but I love purples and greens, which is why I was so attracted to this palette. I like to incorporate fun pops of color into my looks, so it’s more practical for me to view this as a supplemental palette to use in conjunction with other palettes.

I appreciate the freedom one has to apply these as washes of color or to layer up the color. There’s clearly a market for people who want duochromes and multichromes, but in subtler and more refined versions. This isn’t too difficult of a palette to use, but it’s not beginner friendly either. For example, some shades don’t build up that much stronger even if applied damp or over glitter glue. Some look better with an actual mixing medium. Then again, at this pricepoint, I don’t think many beginners would start with something like this anyway.

My hope for every palette I buy is for the eyeshadows to be of high quality and perform the way I want. It’s an extra treat when those eyeshadows also come in various textures and finishes that I get to play with. It was difficult at first to remember the different ways I had to treat the various eyeshadows, but by now, I can recall just by seeing how they look on the surface. This has eliminated some of my earlier frustrations trying to use certain shades as a topper, and didn’t realize they were too thin to make a color difference on top of the thicker shades. Learning which order to layer them took some time (about a month with sporadic usage).

If I’m going to buy a duochrome or multichrome, I typically want full pigment right away. I want impact. So, it’s quite a new experience for me to find enjoyment in these kind of eyeshadows. The Isamaya brand managed to create something quite niche, even though it’s something I’m pretty familiar with from my experience exploring various indie brands’ eyeshadows. Danessa Myricks Lightwork Palettes are probably more in line with my preferences, yet I still haven’t shelled out the money for any of those, and they’re similar to the price range of a Core palette. That being said, as much as I like Core 1.0, I still wouldn’t pay full price for it precisely because it’s something I want for specific moods and occasions rather than being an everyday kind of product. I say this even if the high price-point can be justified for the custom packaging, where it was made, the formula and pigments, etc.
If the branding and these eyeshadows fit someone’s vibe, I can see it being worth full price. I don’t think someone expecting Clionadh, Devinah, and other high impact indie brand shimmer quality would like this palette, unless the plan is to use it with mixing mediums. For me, I can only recommend this on sale. In previous years, I’ve seen Isamaya products listed at 30% off. This past Black Friday/Cyber Monday, the Core Palettes were also reduced to 30% off from the brand’s official website. That’s definitely a more palatable price.

That’s all for today! Thank you for reading!

-Lili