Welcome, lovers of Japanese makeup brushes! If this is your first time visiting, I’d like you to know that I have a page with every Fude post linked, as well as a description of the topics discussed in those posts and a list of which brushes are in which posts. If this is not your first time here, welcome back!
Regarding my measurements, “hair width” is measured from the widest part, regardless of the overall brush shape. I don’t measure thickness. Anything with an asterisk indicates that I had to measure that one myself as those numbers were not listed on the website. All figures listed in inches are converted estimates.
With costs of materials ever increasing and supply of certain hair types being harder to acquire, brush prices also increase. So, the prices I’ve listed might not reflect what is current, though I will do my best to keep them updated.
*DISCLOSURE: Non-highlighted links in bold blue font (Example) are standard non-affiliate links. Links marked in bold black font with a light blue background (Example) are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to get a commission if purchases are made directly using my link. Whether you click to shop through them or not, I appreciate you visiting and I hope you find the information I’ve provided to be helpful!
CHIKUHODO
Chikuhodo ZE-1 Powder Brush
Full Length: 167mm / 6.57 in
Hair Length: 52mm / 2.05 in
Hair Width: *50mm / 1.97 in
Bristle Type: Premium Silver Fox
I love the Chikuhodo FO-9 because of how huge fluffy and luxurious it feels. So, when this brush came out, I assumed it would be even more of an upgrade between the “premium” hair and thicker more expensive granadillo wood (vs maple). I was surprised to see that the heads of both brushes are not the same.
Although both brushes are ovular, the ZE-1 is rounder and not as wide. Both feel similarly dense closer to the base of the head, but the FO-9’s wider splay from the mid section to the tips gives the brush an airier feel with a lot more bend while moving. When it comes to the bristle softness, they are nearly identical. I only notice that the premium hair feels softer when I use them side by side for several minutes. It takes so much focus to tell the difference, that they may as well be the same to me.
Below is a photo of my largest powder brushes for reference.
I have zero complaints using this brush for all my powdering needs. It gives a soft, even layer on the skin. Because of the shape and it being more dense than the FO-9, the ZE-1 is better for buffing.
At the time that I bought this brush, the retail price was 27,000 YEN. The link to it can be found HERE, but the ZEN series is technically discontinued. Additional stock crops up from time to time, but it’s very rare.
Chikuhodo x BoBo Silver Fox/Saikoho Mix Makie Owl Handle
Full Length: *153mm / 6.02 in
Hair Length: 33mm / 1.3 in
Hair Width: *43mm / 0.16 in
Bristle Type: Silver Fox and Saikoho Goat
If you guessed that I bought this brush for the handle, you would be correct! I have a hard time resisting makie handle brushes if the price is within my budget. Besides the beautiful moon and owl motif, I also am such a big fan of brushes with fox hair. I believe this is the first one I’ve bought with a mixture of silver fox and goat. I wondered if this could be an upgrade to my Eihodo WP PC-1 Puff Goldfish Makie Brush, which I essentially used to replace the Chikuhodo T-13 which had softer hair, but continually sheds.
I find that fox is softer than saikoho. So, it makes sense that the Owl brush having a mixture of fox and saikoho would make it feel a little softer than the T-13’s saikoho alone. I can feel less friction on my skin when buffing the Owl compared to the T-13, and much less drag on the skin than the PC-1. Plus, this doesn’t have a shedding problem. Are those perks worth the estimated $25-27 higher price? Because my skin has gotten more sensitive over time, my answer is yes! It’s worth it and I am thrilled!
When using a setting powder specifically, I tend to prefer airy and wispy brushes because my dry skin benefits from having the thinnest layer, and most of the time I don’t want to set every inch of my face with powder. An evenly dispersed amount is good enough. With this brush, I can cover my entire face in just a few seconds. I can buff everything to help all the makeup blend together, but with the amount of powder my brush picks up, sweeping everywhere tends to be just fine. However, if I want to use this brush with other types of products, such as powders prone to sticking to the skin right where it is placed, this dense brush isn’t so good for that. Since most of the makeup I use is super finely milled, I don’t usually have this issue. Working with bronzer and blush can be tricky if they’re heavily pigmented, especially because of its wide surface area. As long as the powder doesn’t stick, I don’t find this brush to apply colored products that heavily (working from 1-2 taps into the pan at a time).
I bought this brush from Fude Bobo for 16,000 YEN, but this style sold out. They restocked a plain white handle version, but that is out of stock too.
When I think of “3D” brushes, I associate them with having a medium-dense section near the base, at the bottom of the angle, that gets airier with more splay towards the top. This brush is thicker and denser than those, so calling it “trapezoidal” indicates that it’s not a typical 3D brush within the category of angled brushes. It’s still thicker and denser than most “paw” shaped brushes, which also have a sharper angle than this one.
I love the feeling of it on my skin, but this shape of brush being firmly bound makes me like it less than 3D brushes. There isn’t as much movement of the bristles. When using Baby Owl with blush, I essentially have to pounce the product to ensure it doesn’t go outside of the area I want. The amount of blush picked up by the bristles needs to knocked off first to ensure it doesn’t look like a stamp on my cheeks, but it can still happen with very pigmented blushes. The edges will not be diffused from the pouncing, so if I try to use the tips to sweep or buff in such a small area that, it has me wishing the application was just sheerer and more diffused from the start. Essentially, this brush makes me do more work or requires an additional brush to pair with it instead of being able to do everything I want with a single brush alone.
I can use a sweeping motion for bronzer in a small precise area instead of pouncing, but the powder layer still tends to be heavier than I want.
So, although this brush is functional, I prefer to just keep it on display. Also, according to my friends, this brush seems to perform similarly to Sonia G’s ALP2, which is why I decided to skip getting that brush. For those that have similar tastes to me, I recommend looking into the Bisyodo B-P-03. I’m not ready to review it yet, but it will likely be part of Fude Part 11 in the future.
I paid 14,000 YEN for Baby Owl, and it was available HERE, but it’s limited edition. So, restocks are few and far between.
Chikuhodo Z-12 Eye Shadow Brush
Full Length: 127 mm / 5 in
Hair Length: 12 mm / 0.47 in
Hair Width: *9mm / 0.35 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
Chikuhodo’s Z-Series is their most well known line of brushes, and one of their best made. I already know that I’m partial to saikoho goat hair brushes for eyeshadow usage, but I still keep my eye out for new squirrel hair eye brush releases that have the potential to become a favorite. Prior to buying this brush and the Chikuhodo GSN-09, the only gray squirrel hair eyeshadow brushes I kept in rotation were the Sonia G Crease One (restock of the original squirrel) and the Muragishi Sangyo MS-4 Mai Sakura Eyeshadow Brush. Sonia G’s brush I only use for outer corner work with heavily pigmented eyeshadows. The Muragishi brush is the one that I use regularly, but it’s discontinued through CDJapan. The current inventory will not be restocked once it sells out. So, this is why I was especially interested in seeing if I could like other packing eyeshadow brushes, especially from the famed Z-series.
This brush is perfectly fine at packing on eyeshadows and doing some light blending, but it’s still not as quick or effortless as my Sonia G saikoho goat brushes. The Z-12 isn’t as firm, making the tips feel gentler on the eye at the expense of me needing to pack on more layers. I save myself the effort by not bothering to use this with sheerer eyeshadows. Essentially, I still like this brush more than some of the other squirrel eye brushes I’ve used in the past (excluding some pine and canadian squirrel brushes) because I’m still able to pack on a decent amount of product. However, it’s unlikely to be in my regular brush rotation. For those that aren’t trying to have the most opaque eyeshadow looks or ones who prefer squirrel eye brushes, this could be a much more valuable brush to have.
At the time I bought it, this brush was listed as 4000 YEN and is available HERE.
Chikuhodo GSN-09 Brush
Full Length: 182 mm / 7.16 in
Hair Length: 12 mm / 0.47 in
Hair Width: *9mm / 0.35 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
Had I known how similar the GSN-09 and Z-12 would be, I potentially would have skipped out on getting the Z-12 for sheer redundancy. The main differences between them is that the GSN-09 has slightly more tapered tips and is a little stiffer, making it that much more similar to the Muragishi brush I love. The hair quality of the Z-12 might be a higher quality though. At the very least, it feels the tiniest bit softer, but I’ve owned and been using the GSN-09 for longer.
This brush packs on a good amount of product and I can blend out the edges fairly well. It’s still not quite as good at blending as my Muragishi brush, but I still reach for it enough times that I feel it was worth buying. I am satisfied with it.
If this brush has not been discontinued, it costs 3200 YEN and is available HERE.
This is one of the renewed GL series brushes that I bought in June 2025. I like to think of this as a giant version of the Wayne Goss Air Brush because that brush is the first one I ever bought with that particular shape. It’s similar to how “Beautyblender” became the name for all makeup sponges. When Wayne Goss had the relaunch of his brushes, he said he would bring the Air Brush back (or something similar to it). It has been several years and that still hasn’t happened. Within this time frame, he’s been rumored to be working with a different OEM, so making an exact dupe of the Air Brush might not be allowed. For over a year, he also lost control of his UK website that the brushes were sold at by his partners (could be former partners by now). So, the whole Wayne Goss situation is a mess. He has been cryptic about what his website would be about after announcing in May 2026 that he regained control of it. Other than stating, “My goal is simple: to create something honest, useful, and genuinely empowering for women everywhere,” there’s no telling whether he will continue with brushes. His plans will apparently be announced in Fall 2026. Long story short, I was tired of waiting for another version of the Air Brush, so I bought the GL-6. The brush I own that is actually most similar in size and shape to the GL-6 is the Chikuhodo KZ-4. I don’t own the revived 2026 version from the Homare series, but I still have my original. Because the KZ-4 is so costly and expensive due in part to the Kazan Squirrel hair, I only use that brush a few times a year. The GL-6 is my way of having a soft but less expensive alternative.
I will bring this up again in the Eihodo Blush Brush review, but I think it’s important to mention that the hairs feel more similar to using a goat hair brush than a squirrel one. Then again, if I’m using a squirrel and goat mixed brush, the goat is usually Saikoho. I almost never use Sokoho anymore. The one exclusion is the Eihodo Puff brush with the Dior Powder No Powder. This brush doesn’t feel scratchy on my skin in normal usage situations, but those with sensitive skin might find it safer to just use a pure squirrel hair brush instead.
This brush is marketed for highlighter use because that is the best function. In my review of the Givenchy Highlighter, I mentioned that I can’t use my holy grail brush as well with that product because I need to blend it out a bit more than other highlighters require. The GL-6 is one of the brushes I use most with it. It’s great for picking up semi hard pressed powders or just regularly pressed ones that I want to blend out in a way that combines well with my blush.
There are times when I’ve used this brush with bronzers that I wanted to have in an even sheerer layer than I get with my go-to bronzer brushes, or an application that’s confined to a smaller area than my large bronzer brushes produce. With contours, I can make a stronger line with the angled side and then blend it out in a sweeping motion with the flat wider side.
I have occasionally used this brush with darker blushes that I’m trying to create an ombre look with. Sweeping with this gives me control to build up sheer layers before switching to a different brush to apply the lighter color to the apples of my cheeks.
Aside from highlighter usage, one of my favorite uses of the Air Brush was to sweep powder away from my under eyes after setting my concealer. However, this brush being larger makes it harder to maneuver between my nose and inner corners of my eyes. So, I don’t use the GL-6 this way.
The GL-6 does not replace any of my favorite highlighter, blush, or bronzer brushes. Instead, I use this when my favorites don’t perform the way I want with a particular product. So, I don’t think I recommend this brush to beginners or those with small brush collections. I think it is more useful to the type of person who likes to have a wide variety of makeup tools.
Since Chikuhodo makes the Kumanofude for Eihodo, I feel fairly confident that my outlet brush is a minorly defected version of the GL-4. I cannot tell what the defect is though. The brush has a slightly courser feel than I’d expect from a squirrel-mix brush. It feels only a little softer than my Eihodo Puff brush, which is listed as Sokoho goat only. The Eihodo Sokoho quality is extremely high though, so it cannot be compared to how Sokoho from other brands feel (except in this case where the stock could be the same). The most important aspect is that these tips are not scratchy on my face. They are soft enough for me to be able to use this brush quite often, though it can start to hurt my cheeks if I use it to take multiple blush demos within a short period of time (for blog photo purposes).
The brush is nicely filled out so that the base has some firmness, but the tips splay enough to prevent the application from looking too concentrated in one spot. I’ve enjoyed using this brush with stiffer pressed, yet sheer blushes, such as the Gucci Glow Blushes. Because I’ve spoiled myself using some of the softest brushes out there, I wasn’t as happy with this brush initially. However, I have liked the end results from using this brush so much that I have continued to reach for it far more than I ever expected. Plus, I’m very happy with the sturdy construction of this brush and the long handle.
Because it’s a traditionally shaped cheek brush, I prefer to use it exclusively with blush. It can be used with bronzer, but for the amount of powder that gets picked up and it not being dense enough towards the tips to be that strong of a buffer brush, it applies bronzer more heavily than I like.
If the outlet version that costs 5440 YEN is still available, it can be found HERE. If not, Chikuhodo’s GL-4 can be found HERE.
KOYUDO
Koyudo Yoshiki Blue Fox Powder Brush S (round)
Full Length: *158mm / 6.22 in
Hair Length: 43 mm / 1.69 in
Hair Width: *27mm / 1.06 in
Bristle Type: Blue Fox
When I first heard of blue fox, I thought it was a marketing term situation similar to blue squirrel vs gray squirrel. However, the blue fox brushes I’ve purchased from Koyudo via Fude Bobo have hair strands that feel as thick as premium silver fox hair, but they’re even softer to the touch! I’m such a big fan of fox hair brushes, but now I’m even crazier about blue fox. It’s just so difficult to acquire! I usually miss out on the first launches from Fude Bobo and only snag the brushes in restocks. In the case of the two brushes in the photo below, these are Fude Bobo’s outlet brushes. These three in total comprise of the only blue fox brushes I’ve been able to get, and I am continuing to keep my eye out for more.
I’m not ready to review these, but they will likely be in the Fude Update Part 11 future post.
The reasons I like this brush specifically, besides the plush soft hair, are that it’s fully round, is dense enough to allow for some minor buffing, splays in a way that allows for some minor diffusing, doesn’t pick up too much product with one dip, is small enough to maintain precision, and has a beautiful handle. I was using this brush so often during the time that I was working on Fude 9 and had to force myself to stop so I could give more time to test the other brushes.
The performance is great and it’s in a common shape. There are plenty of dupes for this brush, but it’s the hair that makes it worth buying over others. It’s just unfortunate that it’s hard to get.
KOYUDO x CDJAPAN Beauty 2024 Silver Fox Powder Brush S and KOYUDO x CDJAPAN Beauty 2024 Silver Fox Powder Brush L
Powder BrushS
Full Length: 160mm / 6.3 in
Hair Length: 45mm / 1.77 in
Hair Width: *42mm / 1.69 in
Bristle Type: Silver Fox
On the left is the S version. On the right is the L version.
Powder Brush L
Full Length: 170 mm / 6.69 in
Hair Length: 50 mm / 1.96 in
Hair Width: *55mm / 2.16 in
Bristle Type: Silver Fox
I can pretty much review the S and L Powder Brushes together because they are identically shaped, just one is larger than the other.
Blush application, bronzing, and powdering are the three tasks these brushes can help accomplish. Powder Brush L is unsurprisingly best suited to use with all-over face powder because of its bigger size, while having the same denseness as the smaller one. Powder Brush S is unsurprisingly better suited for blush, since I’m less prone to sweeping or patting blush outside of the area I want.
When it comes to which brush is better for bronzer, that’s all about preferences whether larger and faster is better or smaller and targeted. With density out of it, I prefer the smaller brush since I get more precision with the same amount of diffusing capability.
Compared to the brush options from my entire collection, The L is among the top for powder. That being said, I don’t have any particular favorite powder brush because they all tend to perform the same. The Blue/Gray Squirrel brushes are my softest and most delicate powder brushes, but they don’t need buffing power because they don’t pick up as much product anyway. So, wherever I apply will have a thin layer. My fox brushes with the near softness of squirrel and resilience of goat grab onto more powder, but are better buffers. So, the outcome is pretty much the same. Squirrel hair brushes might require less blending, but they take a longer time to layer or cover the face. Fox hair brushes might require buffing, which adds more time, but I might have needed to do that anyway for a more polished look in blending blush, bronzer, and highlighter together on my face. The powder brushes I reach for the most are the bigger fluffier ones for a plusher and more luxurious feel, or the ones with the prettiest handles that I can enjoy looking at. Although I wouldn’t call this handle the prettiest, the dragon symbol is very cool and the reason I wanted brushes from this collection in the first place.
Regarding bronzer, the S is nice, but I prefer the wider size and slightly denser Bisyodo B-F-05 Perfect Fit Brush. Even the Sonia G Jumbo Bronzer Brush, which is a little less soft, is one I prefer because of the way it lays down product. Lastly, very few sweeping brushes can impress me with blush over my favorite rounded ones. So, I’ve been using these brushes mainly for face powder, which is why they’re aptly categorized as powder brushes! Final things to note is that the L was shedding a ton in the beginning. I almost stopped using it out of frustration, but it eventually got to a reasonable level after about five months of using it. It also has thinner and more delicate hair strands than the S. For some reason, the hair in my S brush is as thick as Chikuhodo’s premium fox hair in the ZEN series. The S also sheds significantly less.
The S version once cost 25100 and is available HERE. The L version once cost 30100 YEN and was available HERE.
KOYUDO x CDJAPAN Beauty 2024 and 2025 Flat Top Kabuki Brushes
Full Length: 53mm / 2.08 in
Hair Length: 22mm / 0.87 in
Hair Width: *40mm / 1.57 in
Bristle Type: Goat
Kabuki brushes are expected to pack on a lot of product, but evenly, and buff it out very well. Since I typically try to use as little product as possible, I rarely have use for these type of brushes except for the cuteness factor of them being stubby. With these brushes, each individual strand doesn’t hold that much product, but because there are so many hairs in total, I get a thin wide layer when I apply it. So, I actually do like how these perform with powders!
I kept specifying “powder” because most people say undyed goat hair (particularly sokoho and other sturdy hairs around the goat) can be used with liquid products. CDJapan doesn’t specify what part(s) of the goat are used in these brushes, but it can be assumed based on the price and lack of labeling that it’s not saikoho. That being said, this brush is softer than I expected. It’s likely a very high quality sokoho, or sokoho mixed with other goat types like Ototsuho or Tankoho. I think it’s too soft to be Hakutotsuho, but I admittedly don’t have a lot of experience with goat that isn’t sokoho or saikoho. I own brushes from Koyomo that’s listed as “Haku-ototsuho Yomo,” which I assume is a mix of Ototsuho and Hakutotsuho hair, but one brush felt amazing while the other felt like Sokoho. So, I don’t have a good grasp of those hair types due to inconsistencies. The point I was trying to make is that even though this is likely not the thinner hair type (Saikoho), some of these bristles are still delicate and some of the tips have snapped off on me when I’ve used these kabuki brushes with a normal liquid foundation and even a serum foundation. So, I recommend using these brushes exclusively with powder products.
For all-over setting or finishing powder, this brush works very well. It’s great for buffing. By now, I own so many brushes that perform with similar results, have a larger surface area, and are far softer. So, I wouldn’t think to reach for this brush for powdering. Instead, I love this with bronzer because of the airbrushed look I get. It’s great to use with my subtler or lighter colored bronzers, and if I want to use it with one that is very pigmented, I just make sure to pick up the product with a small portion of the brush so that I can blend it out with the clean section of the brush.
As for blushes, the size is small enough that I don’t really have to worry about applying too high or too far down on my face, but it can look a little heavier with the amount of product I pick up if the blush happens to be on the more heavily pigmented side too.
If I’m being honest with myself, I really just bought them as collector items, but they are absolutely functional for those who actually want to use these brushes for their intended purposes.
I paid 4500 YEN for these brushes, and they were available HERE and HERE.
KOYUDO x CDJAPAN Beauty 2025 Grey Squirrel Powder Brush
Full Length: 150 mm / 5.9 in
Hair Length: 50 mm / 1.97 in
Hair Width: *35mm / 1.38 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
I believe this is only my second brush made by Koyudo that has Gray Squirrel hair. Usually they reserve that hair type in large bundles for their most intricate handles, which are both aspects that raise the price. So, I’m happy this collaboration brush is available. The current price still isn’t cheap, but it’s the most affordable Koyudo brush I’ve seen that uses gray squirrel hair. Funnily enough, CDJ working with Koyudo is the reason I was able to buy my first and only white Canadian Squirrel Face Brush!
I was worried that, since this is a more affordable Koyudo Gray Squirrel hair brush, the hair might not be soft enough to my liking, but I think even the lowest quality grey squirrel will still always be to my satisfaction. They are so soft innately. So, I’m very happy with how it feels!
The head of this brush has such long hair that it steers it towards powder brush use, but the overall circumference is small enough that I prefer using it with blush and bronzer. Using it to cover the face in a thin dusting of setting or finishing powder naturally takes longer than my typical larger squirrel brushes, but it can be done and the end result is nice. It’s just not dense enough to give a good buff though. This brush is suited for building up color in gentle swipes, not buffing.
When I have a bronzer that’s too dark or too pigmented, this brush has been perfect for ensuring the application is sheer and diffused. I can do the same with blush, but I have far less examples of blushes that are too pigmented, only harder pressed. When I used this with the Gucci Glow Blush, I was impressed that I was able to pick up a decent amount of powder, but that formula is so sheer that I got frustrated trying to build it up with that brush and switched to the kabuki one from this 2025 collection instead!
I’ve grown accustomed to using the Rephr Koyo brush for products that I want to apply in a sheer manner and build up. However, in times when I don’t want to apply blush or bronzer in as wide of an area, I’ve been reaching for this brush instead because the hair doesn’t splay out as wide and therefore it’s easier to apply a diffused application to a spot precisely. Especially if I am trying to ombre one blush shade into another.
This is listed at 16100 YEN and is available HERE.
UPDATE ON INTERNATIONAL CDJAPAN ORDERS: In Fude Part 9, I mentioned that I wasn’t sure how often I’d buy through CDJapan anymore, even though I am an affiliate of theirs. I always try to get the best prices and deals, so as much as I respect and admire the company, if another business worked out better shipping prices, offers higher discounts, or some other perk, I am going to shop through them. I am first and foremost a customer and I have to do what’s best as a customer with a limited budget.
Since posting Fude 9, there have been additional changes. Not only is the free shipping minimum not feasible for me to reach, but shipping costs have gone up even more! There has always been VAT, but there is now a duties fee (not to be confused with added customs if the order exceeds 150 Euros), as well as a fixed customs clearance fee. If I try to buy an item that costs $49, my final total will be $101. Thanks to the reward program, occasional coupons, and the kind people who shop through my affiliate link, I have enough points saved up to help offset some of these fees. However, I want to save them for a time when I see a brush so great that it suddenly feels worth it to pay extra for it. A brush so fantastic that I will feel regret if I don’t buy it (and yes, there are three brushes I’ve missed out on that I still can’t get over missing). So, I will be buying significantly less brushes this year and going forward. It’s possible that every Japanese retailer will have these fees when shipping to Europe, but I will be shopping around just in case I find one that’s better.
If you live in the US, you might not have this kind of problem from CDJapan or other retailers. I cannot be sure.
Anyway, that’s all for Fude 10! Thanks for reading!
Welcome, lovers of Japanese makeup brushes! If this is your first time visiting, I’d like you to know that I have a page with every Fude post linked, as well as a description of the topics discussed in those posts and a list of which brushes are in which posts. If this is not your first time here, welcome back!
Regarding my measurements, “hair width” is measured from the widest part, regardless of the overall brush shape. I don’t measure thickness. Anything with an asterisk indicates that I had to measure that one myself as those numbers were not listed on the website. All figures listed in inches are converted estimates.
With costs of materials ever increasing and supply of certain hair types being harder to acquire, brush prices also increase. So, the prices I’ve listed might not reflect what is current, though I will do my best to keep them updated.
*DISCLOSURE: Non-highlighted links in bold blue font (Example) are standard non-affiliate links. Links marked in bold black font with a light blue background (Example) are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to get a commission if purchases are made directly using my link. Whether you click to shop through them or not, I appreciate you visiting and I hope you find the information I’ve provided to be helpful!
BISYODO
Bisyodo CH-FD Foundation Brush (Round Flat)
Full Length: 160mm / 6.3 in
Hair Length: 30mm / 1.18 in
Hair Width: *45mm / 1.77 in
Bristle Type: Sokoho
I don’t own the entire Cheri line, but I’ve been impressed with the brushes I’ve used because the hair feels significantly softer than the Sokoho from other brands. This brush is quite densely packed and doesn’t feel scratchy. It’s intended for foundation, but most of my synthetic brushes do a better job of spreading the liquid across my face. I prefer to use this brush on hard-pressed powders to pick up product with more ease, along with sheer powders and cream blushes that I want to build up quicker. Some of the products I enjoy using this brush with are the Dior Powder No Powder and Chanel Joues Contraste Intense Cream-To-Powder Blushes.
Because it’s quite wide, I’m usually able to dip one half of the brush into a pan and apply that, then apply a different product with the remaining clean half of the brush. It saves time being able to use two things without needing to clean my brush in-between.
This is a little too thick for contour work, but it’s flatter and more tightly bundled than my holy grail bronzer brush (Bisyodo B-F-05 Perfect Fit Brush). So, it’s convenient to fit it into smaller spaces, such as the stripes of the Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sun-Kissed Powder (blush, highlighter, bronzer trio) and split-pan of Chanel Jardin Imaginaire Blush and Highlighter Duo.
I feel that the Cheri line doesn’t get as much hype because of the plain handles and Sokoho label, and unfortunately it will no longer be carried by CDJapan. I’m not sure if Bisyodo will discontinue the series altogether. I’ve been using this brush on and off since June 2024, and I regret not posting about it earlier. The price and its usefulness to me makes it a brush that stands out in my collection.
I paid 5000 YEN for it, and it is/was available HERE.
Bisyodo B-ES-01 Eyeshadow Brush
Full Length: 147mm / 5.79 in
Hair Length: 20mm / 0.79 in
Hair Width: *15mm / 0.6 in
Bristle Type: Pine Squirrel
This is another fantastic brush! The hairs are soft and comfortable to use on the eyes and the head is so large that I can cover my eye area with a single eyeshadow so quick and with a lot of product at once. It is quite the time saver! I was a bit bothered by the huge gap between the hair and ferrule (demonstrated in the photo above), but others within the Fude Community on Instagram informed me that theirs are like that too. It might be allowing the flexible pine squirrel hairs to have less restricted movement, considering how easily it glides back and forth when I do windshield wiper motions. The way it moves, the hair type, and length of the hair ensures that I can build eyeshadow quickly and easily without overdoing it. It’s quite special!
Most of my eyeshadows looks are created using at least five shades and require brushes geared towards precision. I basically only use this brush with an all-over single matte eyeshadow, and when I put the lightest matte shade in my crease and/or from the brow to crease. So, this particular brush is quite specialized, but it’s a joy to use whenever I reach for it.
I’ve attempted to use this brush in other ways, such as with highlighter or nose contour, but I haven’t like the outcome. So, it remains a brush for just the eyes for me.
I bought mine during Black Friday in 2024, but it is currently listed for 8800 YEN and is available HERE. To be honest, as much as I love having this brush, I wouldn’t have been happy to pay the current price for it due to the limited uses I have for it. For someone who creates a lot of single-eyeshadow looks though, this could be a different story entirely.
Bisyodo B-ES-03 Eyeshadow Brush
Full Length: 148mm / 5.82 in
Hair Length: 21mm / 0.83 in
Hair Width: *21mm / 0.83 in
Bristle Type: Saikoho
Opposite to my experience with the previous brush, I find this to be too big to use on my eyes and I don’t enjoy it there. That’s not a disappointment for me because I always intended to use this for nose contour and highlighting purposes. It turns out that it’s still a bit too big for the tiny area in which I like to apply contour. However, it does make a wonderful highlighting brush that I can sweep across the top of my cheekbones.
I’m surprised to see this brush listed as Saikoho because it feels like the Eihodo WP PC-1 Puff Makie Goldfish Powder Brush, which is Sokoho. My guess is that under the dye process, the hair feels a little rougher than I would expect. It’s still acceptably soft, though I can occasionally feel a prick from one of the hairs in the brush.
Even though a different brush is my holy grail one for highlighting purposes, this brush has still been useful in smoothing out thicker highlighter formulas and picking up harder pressed ones. When I test new highlighters, I always use the holy grail first, and if that brush doesn’t work well with it, I switch to this one as another good test. If this brush also doesn’t make it look better, I can then confirm it’s the formula and not my brushes. One such example is the ABH Glow Seeker Highlighter that needs to be blended in really well in order for me to like it. This brush is what I use with that one.
At the time that I am posting this, it costs 6000 YEN and is available HERE.
Bisyodo B-ES-05 Eyeshadow Brush
Full Length: 148mm / 5.82 in
Hair Length: 16mm / 0.63 in
Hair Width: *14mm / 0.55 in
Bristle Type: Pine Squirrel and Kolinsky
This brush isn’t that much thicker than my usual packing brushes, but the longer hair adds more surface area in which I can quickly apply product to my eye area if I pick up eyeshadow along the length of the hairs instead of the tips. It still feels soft from the pine squirrel, but the kolinsky adds structure while still being flexible. It feels a little firmer and thicker than my other semi large pure pine squirrel eyeshadow brushes, such as the Mizuho MB120 or discontinued Koyudo Pine Squirrel one, without sacrificing on softness. I am glad that I can tell a difference between this brush and those, as this one applies a stronger layer of color instead of the soft and buildable route. It was still not a necessity, but I’m glad to have bought it anyway. I have largely stopped using my pure kolinsky brushes because they’re not soft enough for my eye area that’s gradually growing more sensitive over time.
As of December 2025, this brush costs 6500 YEN and can be purchased HERE.
CHIKUHODO
Chikuhodo REN-7 Blush, Highlight Brush
Full Length: 149mm / 5.87 in
Hair Length: 34mm / 1.34 in
Hair Width: *25mm / 0.98 in
Bristle Type: Red Fox and Gray Squirrel
The REN Series is quite expensive, so this is the only one in my collection. I love Bisyodo’s hybrid Fox and Saikoho mix, so I wondered if Chikuhodo’s would be similar and even softer since it has gray squirrel in place of the goat. It did turn out to be much silkier and softer, but it feels more delicate to me, so I try not to be very rough with it. This isn’t dense. The front and back of the brush splay quite a lot, and the center follows the direction of the moment. So, there’s hardly any pressure applied from the brush to the skin. There’s some blending power coming from the fox hair, but this brush is suited for light applications of powders.
I thought this might still be too big for highlighting, but since this doesn’t pick up a large amount and it deposits product so lightly, it works great with more refined and delicate highlighters. This can’t pick up stiff pressed luminizers though and can’t blend out more intense highlighters either, so this isn’t a universally good brush to use for that task.
If I want a light blush application, this brush is definitely good for that. It can just be a bit time consuming if the blush I’m using is already on the sheerer side.
I can also use this for applying a very even amount of bronzer, but the size makes it take longer than I have the patience for around my large face. This brush can technically also be used to sweep off powder from under the eyes or powder from baking.
Overall, this brush feels nice, and it’s good for the type of person that prefers to wear only a light amount of powder products or maintain control over how much powder they want to build up. I’ve been able to find uses for this brush, but it’s not essential for me. For these same blush and bronzer tasks, I’ve preferred to use the Rephr Koyo brush from 2024. The best purpose for this brush is to use it with refined and soft highlighters (like Prada’s or D&G’s), but all of my other highlighter brushes work perfectly well with those too.
A long time ago, there was a note in the bio of Eihodo’s Instagram page stating that they are a “distributor of Chikuhodo brushes,” at least from the Japanese translation. In one of their posts, there is a sign on the window of their shop that states, “Produce by Eihodo, Made by Chikuhodo.” As of the time I’ve published this review, they have further clarified that “All our Hiroshima Kumano brushes are made by Chikuhodo.” So, there is no more guesswork when it comes to the relationship between the two businesses. It now makes sense why there are similar brushes between Chikuhodo and Eihodo.
The only thing I still wonder about are the outlet brushes on CDJapan’s website. They usually only have outlet brush events listed under Koyudo’s or Eihodo’s names. For the Eihodo events, are so many brushes I see that don’t look like Chikuhodo’s typical handles, head shapes, and there are other varieties of squirrel hair used outside of Chikuhodo’s typical gray and Kazan (pine for example). If Eihodo is a distributor, I’m guessing that doesn’t necessarily mean that they only sell Chikuhodo-made brushes. Perhaps the other outlet brushes were created by other artisans and/or manufacturers.
Chikuhodo has some brands they make brushes for listed on their website, but not all. Strangely, they don’t list Eihodo as one of them.
Eihodo BL30-2 Blush Brush Round (BL Series Long handle)
Full Length: 185mm / 7.3 in
Hair Length: 35mm / 1.34 in
Hair Width: 17mm / 0.67 in
Bristle Type: Silver Fox
This brush is surprisingly delicate. It feels dense purely from how many hairs are packed into this brush. When I rub my fingers through it, there’s a lot of splay, movement, and separation without being floppy. A lot of powder can be picked up due to the large surface area, but the bundling will allow for an airy finish and some light buffing. I just have to tap some of the excess off onto my microfiber cloth before applying.
The brush blooms quite a lot after its first wash and I did lose a bit of hair in the beginning few months. That larger surface size and splay makes it bigger than I prefer for blush use. Those that enjoy applying bronzer with large (but not huge) round brushes will probably like this. I like larger brushes if it’s a more rectangular wedge kind of shape, so this is still too much for me due to the size.
In my view, this is a medium-large face powder brush. It works great for that purpose and for light buffing all over the face. It’s a good brush, but the shedding in the beginning deterred me a lot from wanting to use this brush. Even though it’s fine by now, I still tend to avoid reaching for it as often as I should. Hopefully, no one else will have this issue.
I paid 11000 YEN and it’s available HERE. The reason I bought this brush is because I was interested in the Chikuhodo RR-C5 Blush Brush (which is the same price), but I wanted a longer handle. I cannot confirm if they have the same brush head size, but they appear to be based on photos I’ve seen.
EIHODO Big Powder Brush Gray Squirrel with EIHODO Logo
Full Length: 175mm / 6.89 in
Hair Length: 55mm / 2.16 in
Hair Width: 22mm / 0.86 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
This was advertised as having 15 year old hair, and everyone talks about how older natural hairs are softer than the current supply in circulation. So, I was curious if this brush would actually feel different from more modern gray squirrel brushes. I can honestly say I don’t feel much of a difference. Maybe it’s a tiny bit softer. Maybe I’m imagining it. At the end of the day, this is an airy, soft, fluffy brush with a sturdy handle and ferrule. The head shape isn’t unique, but the brushmakers were generous with the amount of hair that was packed in this one brush. It performs similarly to other gray squirrel powder brushes, which is that it’s going to give a light dusting of powder, and I tend to use it in large sweeping motions across my face.
The retail price is quite good considering the amount of hairs and the construction of the brush. I originally shipped my first one to the US. Five months later, it was on sale for 50% off! So, I bought a second one to have shipped directly to me in Germany.
The full price is 20,000 YEN and it was available HERE. It’s listed as “Sold Out” from CDJapan, and considering the large discounts I saw during two different sales, I don’t think this will be restocked. It’s my guess that this didn’t sell well because of the simple handle design. A lot of fude collectors have this style of brush in their collections, even if the hair in this one might be better.
EIHODO Powder Brush Gray Squirrel and Goat Saikoho Ebony Handle
Full Length: *190mm / 7.48 in
Hair Length: 60mm / 2.36 in
Hair Width: *60mm / 2.36 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Goat Saikoho
I could never afford Chikuhodo’s most expensive brush, the coveted Chikuhodo P-8, but I thought perhaps a massive brush like this one might satisfy that desire for it. Although this isn’t a pure gray squirrel brush, it has hair that is nearly as long (63mm vs 60mm), plus the handle is also ebony with a shiny black ferrule that gives a similar vibe. The brush feels very sturdy in the hand and the head shape is similar until it has been washed. Then, the P-8 head becomes much rounder and appears to have a lot more hair in it.
This brush feels fantastic! I feel like I’m using a luxury product every time, which ironically and irrationally makes me use it less for fear of damaging it. Due to the size, I have no purpose for this brush other than to sweep loose or lightly pressed powders all over my face. It being so large makes the process go by ridiculously fast. In fact, it’s almost disappointing how fast I finish powdering my face because of how pleasantly soft it is on my skin. So, when I do choose to use this brush, I end up running it across my face for longer than necessary, just to keep feeling it!
This brush is quite expensive, and although it is a joy to have, anyone with a big gray squirrel brush already isn’t really missing out. Sure, this kind of size isn’t so common, but I recommend this brush for collectors and those that like luxury products.
I bought this on sale for 24,500 YEN instead of 35000 YEN and it’s available HERE.
Eihodo [Outlet] No.399 Blush Brush
Full Length: 162mm / 6.38in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: 16mm / 0.63 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Goat Sokoho
The main reason I bought this brush is because I thought the price was good and I tend to love this shape of blush brush. I have at least six outlet brushes that look like this, plus the Muragishi Sangyo MS-2, the (original) Chikuhodo KZ-3, and Houkodou N-F1. I even compared it already to the Eihodo Cheek Brush + Cap that was in the Fude Collection Part 8.
I still consider this to be a soft brush, from the gray squirrel, though with a little more friction on my skin from the Sokoho compared to how a pure squirrel brush feels.
I prefer to use this strictly with blushes, though it can also be used to apply bronzer as well. It’s a nice mix of wispiness, but enough goat to allow for a little buffing power too.
I paid 4350 YEN for it and it was available HERE. These kind of brushes, with this shape, all tend to perform similarly. So, anyone who has liked outlet brushes like this in the past will probably continue to like them. I know what to expect by now when I buy one, and I don’t intend to get more. I have enough backups!
Eihodo [Outlet] No.400 Blush, Highlighting Brush
Full Length: 145mm / 5.7 in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: 11mm / 0.43 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
I bought this hoping it could be a dupe/backup for the Wayne Goss Air Brush. It turns out this is a little wider and with a little longer of hair. This makes it bigger than I would like for sweeping powder away from my under eye area. It’s also much flatter than the type of sweeping blush brushes I’m used to. It’s not that good for buffing. If I have a loosely pressed blush or one that is sheer enough that I only need to focus on building up layers and not buffing anything away, then this is useful to me. Even though I can use this for highlighting, it sweeps so lightly that I can’t use it with any of my highlighters that are on the thicker side. Thinner luminizers are better. So, although I like the feel of this brush, it’s either too big for my needs or not thick enough. I have a brush holder that houses brushes for testing (combined with my go-to everyday brushes). This has probably been in there for six to eight months, and I’ve had this brush since May 2024, yet I’ve only used it probably three times outside of my normal testing range.
I paid 5080 YEN for it, which isn’t so bad consider it’s a gray squirrel brush, but still more than I want for a brush I don’t intend to use anymore.
Eihodo [Outlet] No.406 Eyeshadow Brush
Full Length: 141mm / 5.55 in
Hair Length: 10mm / 0.39 in
Hair Width: 3mm / 0.12 in
Bristle Type: Canadian Squirrel
Most of the outlet Canadian Squirrel eye brushes that end up in the hands of CDJapan have the shortest of handles (one example is in the photo below from Fude Collection Part 4). I try to avoid buying eye brushes shorter than 135mm in full length, so when I read the details stating this one surpassed that, I had to get it!
Example of the Typical Canadian Squirrel Outlet Brush
This brush works similarly to my pine squirrel eye brushes, but it’s just a softer and more delicate version. These bristles are surprisingly resilient, but still requires gentler handling than my pine ones. It picks up a good amount of product considering how small it is. I have no issues using it with mattes and less tightly packed shimmers. In terms of how much color it deposits, it’s in the middle. I have to dip into the eyeshadow pan a few times to build up the amount of color I want, but I wouldn’t consider it to be suited for sheer washes either. Part of that need to build up more is just due to its smaller head size. I’m glad to have the longer handle than previous outlet brushes, but I honestly didn’t need to make this purchase.
I bought it at the discounted price of 2290 and it was available HERE.
I love Pom shaped brushes, and this brush feels softer than some other squirrel and goat mix brushes I’ve used from other brands. So, I am very happy with this brush! It was one of my most used blush brushes in 2025. I even mentioned it in my Singe Beauty Blushes and Brush review.
This is great for buffing and picking up all types of powder. It feels densely packed in the bottom half, but gets airier towards the tips. This is better suited to achieve a full-on type of blush look, but there is still a bit of diffusing that goes on. Depending on the blush used, I sometimes still have to dip my brush into the blush a second time to build up an additional layer.
I have to mention that this brush shed quite a bit in the beginning. If I had to put a number to it, I would estimate it took two or three washings and having used it at least 15 times before the shedding became a lot less frequent. My brush is thankfully still full and puffy, but I know that’s something that can be a bit annoying to deal with.
I bought this brush during Fude Bobo’s Black Friday sale in 2024 for around 19,000 YEN, which still felt like a splurge considering the medium head size. As of December 2025, the brush is over 26,000 YEN. As much as I love it, I honestly cannot recommend it for that price.
Hakuhodo 2025 Gradation Sakura Limited Edition
Full Length: *160mm / 6.3 in
Hair Length: *40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *30mm / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: Goat and Synthetic
I try to avoid buying synthetic or synthetic mix brushes from Hakuhodo and many other fude companies, but this handle was too pretty! The pink to white ombre handle has fine gold shimmer throughout, and I like the pale pink sakura flowers and petals. €50 for it didn’t seem so bad. With shipping and fees, I ended up spending €90 in total. I’m not as happy about that, but it is what it is I guess.
This brush is surprisingly soft. “Goat” isn’t very specific, but whatever part of the goat it comes from, it at least feels softer than typical sokoho. Perhaps it’s a high-grade sokoho mixed with synthetic fibers. It’s denser in the center and there isn’t as much splay, just from the outer hairs at the widest point of the brush.
Despite how soft it feels to the touch with my fingers, it can feel the tiniest bit scratchy on my face if I have to build up too many layers. My skin has gotten more sensitive over time, so this may not be a problem for others.
The way this brush is shaped makes it perform similarly to the original old school Real Techniques Blush Brush. The longer tips in the center pick up the most product, but it’s not that wide of an area, so I consider this a building and buffing style of cheek brush. I pick up product from the side if I want to grab more blush at one time and then use a sweeping motion to apply it. Turning it onto the side is when I run the risk of it feeling rough on my cheeks. If I stick to just using the center and a circular motion, it doesn’t happen, but I usually don’t have the patience for that.
I used this brush quite often with the Fara Homidi Bronzer because it looked similar in shape to that brand’s own brush. It does the job fine with bronzer. I’ve also tested this with cream and cream to powder formulas because this is a synthetic-hybrid brush. I didn’t like using it with those formulas because I couldn’t pick up and deposit product as easily as I do with flat top and angled brushes. I couldn’t blend out liquids well enough either (it just smeared it), so this ended up being a brush I only use with powders. I don’t really like that fact.
This brush is neat to have as a collector’s item, but it wasn’t worth me buying for functional purposes. What is way more enjoyable to use is the Hakuhodo 2023 Valentine’s Day Brush which has the same goat/synthetic mix and extremely similar head shape. I reviewed it in Fude Collection Part 6 and even compared it to the Real Techniques brush as well. The difference is that the Valentine’s Day brush wasn’t scratchy, though it might have had a little bit more synthetic hairs in the brush.
KOYUDO
Before we get into the reviews of some of the additional Koyudo brushes I’ve purchased, I’d like to take a moment to discuss the quality distinctions I’ve noticed. I have a mostly positive impression of the company, but it is also the brand whose brushes I have returned or sold the most, as rare as it is for me to do. Their premium bristles are usually good quality, but their Sokoho has been the roughest of all brands, so I stopped buying those fairly early on. Then, even their Saikoho didn’t feel quite as soft compared to their older brushes, as well as the stock coming from other brands. Some of the brushes I bought during that time started having more shedding issues. I nearly stopped buying their Saikoho too, until the end of 2024 when they launched the Yoshiki Tenpyo Series and Yoshiki Red Series because that’s when they started using the “high grade” labels to show a difference within the various goat categories! Since then, I’ve finally been able to count on the “high grade Saikoho” being the level of Saikoho that I expect. This also means that I am generally uninterested in buying other forms of Koyudo’s goat brushes.
I am happy to report that I’ve had no issues with the other hair types in Koyudo’s brushes. In fact, I have come to love their “blue fox” in particular, but I will review one of those brushes in the future.
Koyudo Red Squirrel Yoshiki Cheek Brush
Full Length: *168mm / 6.6 in
Hair Length: *35mm / 1.38 in
Hair Width: *20mm / 0.79 in
Bristle Type: Red Squirrel
This was a limited edition brush that I believe may have been exclusive to Fude Bobo’s website. It is the second non-mixed red squirrel in my collection. The first was the Tanseido Bamboo Series AQ17TAKE Small Cheek Brush that I reviewed in the Fude Collection Part 8. In that post, I talked about how I really wanted a thicker version to use with blushes. Although the Koyudo brush is rounder in shape, it’s unfortunately still a little smaller than I hoped. Both brushes cost around the same price.
Like the Tanseido brush, this brush can diffuse highly pigmented products in small targeted areas and is ideal for someone who doesn’t want heavy makeup. It’s extremely soft, but somehow feels less fragile than my Tanseido one. So, I’m definitely happy about that. Even when I hold the brush very high up the ferrule, I feel so little pressure on my cheeks. It’s a dream for those with sensitive skin!
I wanted to use this brush with blushes, but I have so few that need as sheer of an application as this gives. I don’t mind building up a blush, but I like when the process is quick. For someone with perhaps pale skin who likes a whisper of color on their cheeks, this tool would most likely be very loved. For me, this is more useful with a select number of powder bronzers I own that are technically a bit too dark. With bronzers that are the right depth, I prefer using larger brushes, but having this kind of precision for my darker bronzers is quite handy. I basically just pass the brush over my skin in a few sweeps to blend the product in, but not really buff. Quick and easy! Since I’ve spent most of 2025 using my best bronzers, I haven’t had that much need for this brush. It’s still nice to have.
Due to this brush’s shape, I think it’s most intuitive to want to use this with highlighters. However, the inability to get enough blending power from the brush means that I only enjoy using it with my highlighters that are thin, easy to pick up onto the bristles, and are powdery/easily dispersed. Since so many of my favorites are baked gelee, and can be hard-pressed, that is another limit on how often I can use this brush.
This brush once cost 18,000 YEN, but it is no longer available. It’s clear to me that this brush was a better investment than my Tanseido one because I’m less afraid to use it and I use it for more tasks. Though I don’t have as many occasions when I need this, I’m still glad to have it.
Koyudo Yoshiki Year of The Dragon Red Squirrel and Saibikoho Goat Kabuki Brush
Full Length: 78.5mm / 3.09 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *45mm / 1.77 in
Bristle Type: Red Squirrel and Saibikoho Goat
I decided to show photos of this brush, but I do not intend to use it. I’m very sorry to disappoint, but it’s too precious to me! This is one of the softest brushes I’ve ever felt (red squirrel and blue fox being at the top). I have admittedly just rubbed it on my face and petted it with my fingers. The hairs are delicate, but they don’t feel fragile, and yet I still refuse to apply my loose powders with it. I’m strange. I know.
Compared to my pure red squirrel brush, I can feel the tiniest bit of drag that the Saibikoho adds. My only experience with Saibikoho is from one of rephr’s holiday brushes, the Saibikoho Cheek Brush which I chose not to ever use with makeup too and have only shown photos of it on Instagram (which I linked). I hinted at my hesitation to consider it a pure Saibikoho brush in my Fude Collection Part 6 post, due to the wording used in rephr’s descriptions. Since then, I have compared how some of my softest brushes feel by hair type. Red Squirrel and Kazan are my softest brushes
Additional photos and a video can be found on my Instagram.
This brush was listed as 50,000 YEN, but I got a fantastic deal on it, and it was available HERE. Due to the high discount it was listed at before eventually selling out, I can only assume it will not be restocked. However, the Blue Fox version of this brush is still available at the time that I’m posting this review.
Koyudo fu-pa01 CB MCFPBT Foundation Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 105mm / 4.13 in
Hair Length: 26mm / 1.02 in
Hair Width: 32mm / 1.26 in
Bristle Type: MCFPBT Synthetic
I bought this brush because the fu-pa style is a classic from Koyudo, and I’m always curious about the famous ones, but so many other small classic styles of brushes from Koyudo are made with coarser fibers. So, I figured I could give at least this one a try.
The synthetic bristles are fantastically soft. It wasn’t until six months after purchasing it that I learned about microcystalline fibers as a more advanced type of synthetic compared to PBT, PTT, etc. This brush is great for creating a smooth and even application of foundation on my skin. It’s super densely packed, so I expected most of the liquid to stay closer to the tips. However, foundation goes so far down the bristles from a single use, as pictured below.
It’s a pet peeve for me to see a white brush get this dirty-looking after one time. There was just no way I could keep this in rotation.
According to the description on CDJapan’s website, “It is possible to apply more natural make-up as the surface with crystal structure and gaps adsorb powder and liquid at an equal level, and evenly places make-up products on the skin.” So, the benefits are similar to using a dry beautyblender. The liquid sinking into the brush contributes to the thinner and more natural looking layer of foundation that gets blended onto the skin, but it leaves my brush looking like this. I just can’t do it!
I have used this brush with cream bronzers and contours, but I prefer the results I get with the Sonia G Mini Base. This does a decent job with cream and liquid blushes since I have more area to work with. Although I can use this with powders, it deposits quite a bit and I have to buff it away. I don’t really want this much of a dense application, even if it’s suited well to buffing. So, the best use I’ve found for this are the liquid and cream blushes, but I personally just prefer not to use this brush and keep it around as a collectible item. I like the look of small brushes, but they end up being less comfortable for me to use because I have large hands. So, this is another reason why I’ve been fairly quick to give up on this brush. I ended up loving Bisyodo’s MCF foundation brush (with longer handles), so it’s safe to say that fu-pa brushes aren’t for me. I will review the Bisyodo one in the future.
I bought it on sale for 2000 YEN, though it was originally priced at 4140 YEN, and it’s available HERE.
Koyudo Saikoho Cheek Brush White [Outlet]
Full Length: 166mm / 6.53 in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: *38mm / 1.5 in
Bristle Type: Saikoho
I’m always surprised when I see brushes that look like they are from the discontinued BP line show up on CDJapan’s website. This was listed as an outlet brush because of the logo, but I’m not sure what is supposed to be wrong with it. Was the yellow part not supposed to be there? Was it supposed to be pink too?
There isn’t anything unique about the shape of this brush. I just wanted it for the nostalgia of resembling the BP brushes, since I don’t have that many in my collection. In fact, the shape reminds me of the Koyudo KSZ-03 Cheek Brush that I sold. It’s just with undyed Saikoho hair.
This brush is a bit dense with minimal splay. It’s definitely not for those who want sheer or light applications of blush and/or bronzer. Unlike the KSZ-03, I don’t have a problem using this in both circular or sweeping motions. This brush is soft, but not the softest Saikoho I’ve used. If I buff for too long, it can still irritate my skin. Thankfully, that doesn’t happen very often. I tend to pick up blushes along the side of the brush and pounce it on my cheeks for a bit, and that’s enough for my blushes to be fully blended in. With bronzers, I tend to just sweep them across the perimeter of my face. Depending on the pigment level of my bronzer, that may or might not require additional blending.
I have used this with all-over face powder once or twice, but I’ve only done that when in a pinch because it’s a little heavier of powdering than I usually go for.
I lost a few fairs within the first five uses, but it stopped shedding after that.
I only paid 1800 YEN for this brush, which was an incredible deal! The retail price is 4000 YEN and it used to be available HERE.
I’ve mentioned in the past how I’m very picky when it comes to gray squirrel eyeshadow brushes. I rarely want a wash of color on my lids, so I tend to prefer the ones that are dense and don’t splay out too much. This brush reminded me of my most used squirrel eye brush, the Muragishi Sangyo MS-4, so I wanted this as a backup brush. It turns out this one is thinner and slightly shorter, but I get very similar results.
In fact, this is so similar that I debated with myself for over a month whether or not I wanted to buy a backup of the MS-4 while I still could (I did end up buying the backup anyway). CDJapan put out a notice pictured below, and I’m not sure if they mean they will no longer carry the brand or if the Muragishi Sangyo business is closing down. I think it may just be the former.
Anyway, Koyudo’s Gray Squirrel quality proves to be great once again. I can pack on a nice amount of product with this brush, even shimmers. The tips coming to a point makes the edges crisper when applying a lid shade. It feels comfortable in the crease and corners of my eyes. Essentially, I use this brush when I don’t need as much blending power as I get from my Sonia G eye brushes. I’m very pleased with this purchase!
I don’t believe I’ve talked about my ordering experience from rephr within the US versus EU, however, it’s virtually the same. My packages are well wrapped, shipping is free on orders over €35 (standard shipping costs €12), and the items typically arrive within 3-5 days.
Rephr 22
Full Length: *178mm / 7.0 in
Hair Length: 48mm / 1.89 in
Hair Width: *52mm / 2.04 in
Bristle Type: natural
In 2023, I owned nearly all the brushes Rephr made. The 22 and 25 were the biggest, and therefore most expensive. I bought them during Black Friday of that year to essentially complete my collection. In addition, this brush is said to be the closest dupe for the original Tom Ford Bronzer brush that was made of goat before they switched to synthetic-only brushes. That Tom Ford brush was always on my bucket list to buy, so this was my best way of fulfilling that wish.
I get some shedding from this brush, but in an acceptable and ordinary amount.
Rephr has always been vague about the grade of goat used in their brushes, so I cannot confirm for sure, but the 22 feels like it has the highest portion of saikoho in their whole range. Since they gradually make changes to the brushes in the concept store, I can’t guarantee that all Brush 22s are like this, but mine feels top notch.* I have zero complaints with how it feels on my skin, for a goat brush.
*At the time that I’m writing this, the website does not have this brush in stock and there is a notice stating, “This product is currently going through a re-design…”
The 22 feels dense from being packed with so much hair, but it doesn’t apply as heavily as I would have assumed from looking at it. If I just lightly tap it into a pan of bronzer, I can get a light-medium application of powder. I keep this in a brush guard so it doesn’t become too airy and lose its shape after being washed. This means that I continue to get a large diffused application of bronzer on my face without it covering too wide of an area.
I have tried using this brush with face powders, but it applies more heavily than I tend to like (and heavier than the 25). It’s also way too big for blush. So, I consider the 22 a bronzer brush exclusively.
I very much like this brush, but I like my large grey squirrel brushes that can accomplish the same task while still being softer. I also have big fox brushes that give the same results, but with less drag/friction across my skin. The Bisyodo B-F-05 Perfect Fit Brush, Sonia G Jumbo Bronzer Brush, and the Chikuhodo FO-9 have that somewhat wedge-shape, but aren’t as thick, which makes them easier to control and apply precisely. The full price ($110) of the 22 is within the same price range as the Bisyodo and Chikuhodo, so I would recommend those instead. However, I paid $53 for this brush, which is practically a steal. As long as the 22 is under $80, I can recommend this brush to anyone looking for a goat hair brush specifically. It’s still significantly fuller than the Sonia G Jumbo Bronzer Brush, but I feel it needs to cost less than that one to make up for for the fact that I still prefer bronzer brushes that are a tad smaller than this one. Those that love big brushes might want the rephr 22 instead!
Rephr 25
Full Length: *180mm / 7.09 in
Hair Length: 58mm / 2.28 in
Hair Width: *45mm / 1.77 in
Bristle Type: natural
The biggest round brush I own (regardless of hair/fiber type) is the Lunar Beauty LBF-1 Large Powder Brush. I don’t like to feature that brand, but the reality is that I love the feel of that brush, but my negative opinion of the owner has made me use it less often. The Rephr 25 is the closest brush I have to that size, and although I have mixed feelings about rephr, it’s not towards the people who work there (just the lack of transparency regarding the hairs and how the brush specifications are listed or neglected to be listed). So, I at least don’t have to deal with feelings of guilt when I use the Rephr brush.
The 25 is the company’s flagship brush, and as I mentioned earlier, the 22 brush is softer than this one. However, my version of the 25 still seems to have a larger portion of high grade goat hair than the smaller face brushes in the line. It’s still quite soft, however, not soft enough for me to want to use this brush over my traditionally-shaped large squirrel and fox powder brushes. This gives me a light application of powder, but with my dry and increasingly sensitive skin, other hair types let me apply an even sheerer amount of face powder. I still love and use plenty of goat hair brushes, just rarely with finishing or setting powders. The “least soft” brushes I’ll use for all-over face powder is saikoho goat mixed with either squirrel or fox. So, the reason I don’t intend to use the 25 as much after completing this review isn’t due to any flaws in the brush. I’d feel the same about all other goat brushes.
I have tried using this brush with bronzers and blush. In the case of bronzer, I like the lighter application than a typical bronzer brush gives, but I don’t like that the feeling of the bristles running across my skin is so noticeable. I don’t like how large it is for blush either.
At the full price of $130, I feel everyone is better off getting a nice squirrel or fox brush instead. I paid $63 for it though, so it was quite a great deal. However, since I don’t intend to use it anymore, I can’t say that it was worth it to me. For those that don’t have sensitive skin though, a brush like this at a discounted price could be great to have.
Rephr 33
Full Length: *152mm / 5.6 in
Hair Length: *18mm / 0.71 in
Hair Width: *14mm / 0.55 in
Bristle Type: natural
This brush isn’t suited as well to my eye shape, but I bought it specifically to do nose contour and it works great for that purpose. The way the hair comes to a point, and the way it is tapered allows me to apply the contour precisely along the bridge, but I can also use the flatter parts to tap onto the wider portions of my nose as well. This brush doesn’t pick up too much product, which is another reason why the end result looks so natural.
I have other brushes that I can use for nose contouring, but this is one of the few that does the best job. I have used it quite often, and at least often enough to feel I’ve gotten my money’s worth already.
I’ve tried using this brush with concealer and did not like the results. It works fine to apply eyeshadow primer to my upper eye area and lids, but it’s so good for nose contouring that I’ve decided to reserve it just for that.
Rephr 38
Full Length: *161mm / 6.3 in
Hair Length: *33mm / 1.3 in
Hair Width: *23mm / 0.9 in
Bristle Type: natural and synthetic
This is the permanent version of the Rephr x Alexandra Anele brush. I didn’t buy the original because I did not like the scraggly look to it, which reminded me of stippling brushes and I never like stippling brushes. By the time I decided I wanted to give it a try anyway, it was sold out in Europe. I assumed if the brush sold well enough, it would eventually return. Hence, how I have this one now!
I am happy to report that this brush works quite well with all mediums of highlighters, though I use it most often with powders. This brush can pick up quite a bit of product considering its small size, but the staggered hairs diffuse very well (also surprising considering the dense feeling it has in the belly portion of the brush head). I’m careful using this with my softer and lighter pressed luminizers because I don’t want to waste product, and not out of fear of overapplying. This brush is also great for applying blush toppers and when I want to add a lighter color blush to the apples of my cheek (essentially for precision applications). It can also be used for bronzer and contour, but I prefer to use larger bronzer brushes. If I’m going for a more sculpted look, then I don’t mind using the 38 under my cheekbones specifically.
I like this brush quite a lot, and I recommend it, but candle-flame shaped highlighter brushes are still my favorites. The 38 is like a cross between paw-shaped and Koyudo’s 3D one, which are pretty much my next favorite of shapes. This blend of synthetic and goat has a good amount of softness and it does not feel scratchy, but I get more enjoyment from the softer plusher hair of highlighter brushes I’ve added to my collection within the past year (and still need to review in the future). I’ve used this brush a decent amount of times while it’s been in rotation, though I wouldn’t consider it a go-to brush just yet. I’m essentially glad to have it in my arsenal, even though it hasn’t replaced any of my favorites. This brush is intended to be multi-functional, and it succeeds at that.
I would like to point out though that the shape of the brush seen in photos on rephr’s site is how it looks prior to being washed for the first time. It blooms a fair amount, as seen in my own photos, but it’s not technically “Shodō style,” unlike the brand new Rephr x Andreea Ali 2609 Brush that I decided to pass on. I think the 38 being far less stipple-shaped than the Shodō 05 is why I like the 38 a lot more, and also a reason I decided to skip out on the Andreea Ali brush. It didn’t help that the brand hasn’t disclosed what fiber type the 2609 is.
Rephr Kōyō Brush (Holiday 2024)
Full Length: *163mm / 6.4 in
Hair Length: *44mm / 1.73 in
Hair Width: *40mm / 1.57 in
Bristle Type: Squirrel and Saikoho Goat
This brush reigns supreme as the best brush Rephr has ever made! For starters, it’s the 3D shape that I love. It has a fully lacquered maki-e handle that looks even better than their 2023 brush. The squirrel (I’m guessing gray) and Saikoho mix is plush and soft with the perfect amount of airiness to get a well diffused result. This was my go-to blush brush throughout all of 2025 for when I wanted a light application of a pigmented blush (and it’s my second most used blush brush overall). I have some products that a single tap into the pan with other brushes still led to applying too much, and that’s when this brush could succeed where even my beloved Chikuhodo x Bobo Moon Rabbit Design brush could not!
I can use this with highlighter (using the tips) and bronzer, but it shines the most as a blush brush. The quality is superb. I have zero criticisms about this brush. It’s the best of my 3D cheek brushes and has held up well over the past year. I try not to be too rough with it, but I don’t feel like I need to be that dainty with it either.
The €99 it cost was absolutely worth the price, and I consider it a deal actually. So, if they ever bring this back, I highly recommend it.
After Rephr released the now discontinued Brush 30, which looks identical post-wash to Koyudo’s Saikoho Powder Brush that is part of the also discontinued “Koyudo Special 3 Piece Set,” I started to wonder if Koyudo is one of Rephr’s manufacturers. The Kōyō Brush certainly added fuel to my theory because of its shape and how the hairs feel. Koyudo is also one of the few brands who put their specialty brushes in wooden boxes (Paulownia vs perhaps Sugi type of Cedar). I felt even more convinced when I saw Krassypetrova post a Koyudo brush that had the special yosegi-zaiku technique fusing multiple types of wood together. That brush, along with Rephr’s holiday 2025 Yosegi Brush, are the only ones I’d ever seen like that. Perhaps this is all coincidence, but I’m just sharing my hunch!
Rephr Yosegi Brush (Holiday 2025)
Full Length: *162mm / 6.4 in
Hair Length: *42mm / 1.65 in
Hair Width: *40mm / 1.57 in
Bristle Type: goat?
The handle is made using the Yosegi-zaiku technique, that in this case fuses maple and walnut wood together. The ferrule is plated with 24k gold and was, “pressed three times to achieve the brush’s unique triangular shape,” that is apparently called a Sankaku Ferrule. The logos on the brush were made through Maki-e techniques as well. Overall, Rephr clearly requested so much time and effort to be put into the details of this brush. These techniques and luxury elements make this brush special, and yet they chose to not list what type of bristles this brush has anywhere on their website and none of the Influencers mentioned it in their videos either.
Because of how much I loved the previous holiday brush, I felt it was officially safe to buy another one. All of them have elements that make them uncommon or even rare to find, especially at the prices they sell them at.
I reasoned that even if their newest holiday brush turned out to be fully synthetic, the other elements would still make it a reasonably priced brush for me at €89.
The bristles, in my opinion, do have a very synthetic feel to them. The perimeter of the brush, particularly the tallest fibers at the front that form the most pointed section, feel the most slick like the texture of older synthetic types. Even the way those “hairs” bend don’t look or feel natural. Maybe those hairs just happen to be treated in some way. The center portion of the brush feels like a mix of synthetic and goat. I contacted rephr’s customer service inquiring as to what type of fibers are used in this brush and was told simply “goat.” I have long complained about transparency issues regarding the fill of their brushes, so I don’t know whether to take their word for it that it’s goat and not question whether there is also synthetic fibers in this brush too. Although I have my own thoughts, I chose to list this brush as goat, like they said.
Regarding the performance of the brush, the results are actually similar to the Kōyō brush, although the means of getting there are different. I can load up the Yosegi brush with a lot of powder, but it doesn’t release and deposit as much of it back onto the face at one time. It takes a lot more swipes back and forth to get it all out, meaning that it’s the perfect brush for someone wanting to build up product carefully, while also not needing to make repeated dips into the pan. At least, it is this way with blush and bronzer. If I try to use the front tips for applying highlighter, I definitely have to pick up product repeatedly. Lovers of subtle highlighters will most likely enjoy this too. I’m a little too impatient, so I stick to using this for just blushes and bronzers. This brush is big enough to be considered a medium-size face powder brush or a large cheek brush, but it’s the right size for my face and doesn’t feel like too much.
This has the kind of bounce on the skin as if using a puffy bunny’s tail to apply makeup, and it’s mostly soft, but it has a little more drag on the skin than the Kōyō brush. Every now and then, I feel the occasional poke, which I can only assume is from one or two snapped hair tips. I have only lost a couple of hairs in the month that I used this brush, so I wouldn’t say there is a shedding problem. I may just need to be slightly gentler when I use this, although I intuitively buff with this brush (unlike Kōyō) because it has the better structure and shape for that task.
Although the Yosegi Brush is completely functional, I think the next time I wash it, I will end up storing it as a collectible rather than using it further. I’m glad I bought this, but I get a lot more use out of the Kōyō Brush instead and would prefer to just continue using that one.
In the future, I would like to continue buying Rephr’s holiday brushes specifically. However, I want the company to be fully transparent and list what fibers, bristles, or hairs they use. I think it’s only fair to be up front with people about what they’re buying.
Rephr Shodō 05
Full Length: *161mm / 6.33 in
Hair Length: *33mm / 1.3 in
Hair Width: *30mm / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: goat?
Rephr’s Shodō eyeshadow brushes have been a big hit with their fans. I liked the 38, which I figured was close enough to being a Shodō brush, so I decided to go ahead and buy this one which is technically their first one for the face.
In the beginning, I loved this brush. I was so glad to have found another hit from Rephr. The way the uneven bristles diffuse product and leave behind a finish that looks more blended than airbushed is the reason I finally understood the appeal. Visually, the brush is ugly to me, but the results have been great.
Unfortunately, I treated this brush like a normal goat brush, which is apparently too rough. For starters, I had to contact rephr again to find out what type of bristle it had because it was not listed on the website and no one else I watch talked about it either. “Goat” is such a loose term because it could be courser hair from the abdomen of the goat or the softer neck hair. That’s why specifics of Hakutotsuho, Ototsuho, Tankoho, Sokoho, Saikoho, and Saibikoho can be so helpful. I know rephr tends to say they use a combination of Sokoho and Saikoho, so I assumed I could use it like any other of their “goat” brushes. And that is what has led to so much snapping of these brush tips! I did not have as much of a shedding problem with this brush as I did with finding short broken off pieces on my face afterwards. It didn’t start happening (or at least I didn’t notice) until after about a month of testing this brush. I’ve been using this in a buffing motion, but perhaps those staggered stipple-looking tips are more prone to breakage. The brush’s greatest strength is also its weakness. So, I have had to switch my techniques and use much lighter pressure to sweep on product and not try to blend things out. I’m admittedly a bit less satisfied with the results and enjoy it a bit less. It’s still a good brush, but I’m less interested in trying other Shodō brushes in the future, which is a shame considering this is the direction they seem to be going in and I would not be surprised to see a lot more in the future.
The size of this brush reminds me of the 05, while the slanted back is like a bigger 38, and the overall width is almost like a baby version of the 24. I like it the most for bronzer applications, even more than with blush. I have also used it with face powders, but I like my big fluffy brushes more that have softer hair and zero issues giving me a light sheer dusting of product anyway.
REPHR LC COLLECTION
I am pleased that Rephr has been forthcoming about the fact that these LC Brushes are made in China instead of Japan and that they are fully synthetic. Unlike many other Japanese Fude companies who tend to price their synthetic brushes nearly as expensive as their goat ones, the concept store prices for the LC Collection are in line with some of my favorite synthetic brushes from Sigma, Smashbox, Patrick Ta, Tarte, etc. As long as the prices are reasonable, I don’t mind buying the occasional synthetic brush. I have plenty of them already, so it takes a lot to get me to be interested in some, and Rephr’s have been hyped up so much that I finally caved.
I only review Japanese brushes in my Fude section though, but this was still the best section for me to put these, and they are actually fantastic brushes, so I will just keep my thoughts brief.
LC 01
After reining supreme for almost five years, I didn’t think any brush would top my Sonia G Jumbo Concealer Brush, but it has! I even bought a backup of this one. I get the same ability to pack on a lot of product (for getting full coverage), but the product doesn’t stay within the brush as much, and it works even better with spreading eye primers across my eyelids. This is also very soft and gentle to use around my eyes and the angle shape allows me to more easily get into folds and crevices. I used to use my Jumbo Concealer specifically for applying concealer and would always switch to my flat top brushes for eye primers, but I do both with this single brush!
LC 02
I’ve heard so many people praise the BK Beauty 112 Small Angled Face Brush for cream and liquid blushes, but I haven’t bought it. This brush looked similar to me, so I chose this one instead. It really is fantastic for this purpose, but it matches the greatness of plenty of other synthetic cheek brushes in my collection. So, I’m glad to have this brush, but it wasn’t as much of a game-changer as the LC 01.
LC 03
This is pretty much a bigger version of the LC 02, and I have been loving it with my liquid foundations. This performs how I wanted the Sonia G Jumbo Base to be like. It’s larger, denser, and more plush feeling than the Sigma F47 Multitasker Brush that I enjoy with my foundations. The LC 03 is better at smoothing over the contours of my face than the Smashbox Full Coverage Foundation brush that I also love.
I was enamored by the Bisyodo S-517 Liquid Foundation Brush (and bought a second one for cream bronzer specifically), but got this Rephr LC 03 not long afterwards. I have to admit that the Rephr brush took a little bit of that shine away from the Bisyodo brush, and the large size makes it even more convenient to apply my foundation quickly, but I still used these two the most in the latter half of 2025. I get the most coverage from the Bisyodo brush, making it better on “bad” skin days, but I reach for the rephr brush if I want a thinner foundation layer that is better pressed into my skin for a covered yet less detectable look. Only time will tell which one will become my official favorite foundation brush.
I did not buy a backup for this reason though, as I have a lot of foundation brushes that are fantastic.
The construction of all three brushes are very sturdy. The dyed bristle color looks beautiful, and they are nice to hold in the hand. All of the brush heads are dense, which is what I like to see in synthetic brushes.
Although I consistently have mixed feelings about Rephr, I always give credit where credit is due. Their best brush creations are the Kōyō Brush, the LC Collection (01, 02, and 03), and the 38. They have others that are good, but these are the ones that set them apart from competitors and the ones I don’t hesitate to recommend.
EU SHIPPINGOF FUDE BRUSHES
In previous Fude Collection posts, I’ve discussed what it has been like to order brushes from Japan to the US via CDJapan, Fude Beauty, Fude Japan, and Fude Bobo. Once I moved to Germany, I continued to have some of my brushes shipped to the US so I would not have to deal with VAT, customs fees, etc. However, with everything going on in the world, I cannot visit the US as often as I used to. This means that I had to start shipping from Japan to Germany instead. Now that I have this knowledge, I can share it so that others living within the EU can know which websites are the best to order from.
Unfortunately, I cannot say anything about Fude Beauty because I still haven’t ordered anything from them to ship to Germany. Them packaging these expensive brushes in envelopes with no fragile signs and me getting a damaged brush has made it so that I try to avoid buying anything from them at all costs. I don’t want to risk having to deal with damaged goods again (though customer service did a good job to resolve things).
I have ordered from Fude Japan once, and the website does not collect VAT. I bought a brush that cost €50.95 and paid an additional €19.95 for shipping. Then I got hit with the EUR 20.95 fees from DHL. So, I paid almost the cost of the brush in shipping and fees alone. If I was in the US (before the tariff situation), I would not have this issue. However, I purchased less often from Toshiya anyway, after discovering Fude Bobo’s website also gives snacks or small cute gifts, in addition to usually have some kind of discount available.
This is why I prefer to only buy brushes through CDJapan, Fude Bobo, and Beautylish.
CDJapan’s ordering process is at least upfront. Shipping fees are waived on orders where the item total is over 12,000 YEN (around €65).* VAT can be paid in advance, which is 19% for Germany. Most of my orders are a simple matter of paying the item cost plus VAT with no additional fees. I often wait until there is a promo code available before making my CDJapan purchases. Plus, I earn points on my order which can be used to take some money off in the future.
*Things will change starting April 1, 2026! For now, shipping is free on orders over 12,000 YEN. In April, it will be free on orders over 35,000 YEN (around €190 or $226). I have posted their notice below.
If my subtotal is over €150 from any non-EU based company, then unfortunately, I will need to pay the VAT, EUSt, customs, etc. through my shipping carrier. This means I can’t pay it to CDJapan in advance. One such example is when my order subtotal was barely above €150, so I knew I’d have to pay at least €28.50 for the uncollected VAT. The amount owed in fees ended up being €40.33. So, CDJapan was my favorite place to make orders under €150. For the record, I don’t have a favorite place to buy brushes above that price-point, as I am subject to those fees everywhere (as far as I’m aware).
My other favorite place to make orders is through Fude Bobo. As I mentioned in the Fude Japan paragraph, Fude Bobo usually has some form of discount available, and customers get a small item or snack as a gift with purchase. The downside is that there’s no reward program and no free shipping under 70,000 YEN ($447 or €376). So, the promo code often ends up just partly covering the shipping cost. On the plus side, I have been very fortunate regarding getting very low fees if my order gets hit with any from DHL through Fude Bobo.
When I do the math, CDJapan usually ends up being the slightly more price effective way to make my brush purchases. For example, lately, Bisyodo brushes have been excluded from discounts and sales via Fude Bobo’s website. So, I only get Bisyodo from CDJapan. Fude Bobo has Hakuhodo brushes (which CDJapan does not carry), but Hakuhodo is too expensive for me to afford now anyway. So, I usually just buy things from Fude Bobo that I can’t get through CDJapan. I am a CDJapan affiliate, but my favorites are based on which place can save me the most money. CDJapan’s reward program and free shipping minimum, combined with their monthly or bi-monthly discount promo codes, makes them objectively the best option for shipping Fude to Germany. Or, at least until April. After that, Fude Bobo may become the more affordable option in certain instances. I won’t know for sure until my next purchases after April.
I also want to take this time to say thank you to everyone who uses my affiliate links or used them in the past. It helps so much regarding my ability to buy and review brushes. ❤ Although I cannot see anyone’s names, it is fascinating to read the list of the brushes that were purchased and learn which ones are the favorites.
The benefit to buying brushes from Beautylish is that they collect the standard amount of VAT. The cost of the brushes usually qualifies me for free expedited shipping. They have a reward program. They have sales, but rarely on the brushes I actually like. They tend to have a much smaller variety of Japanese brushes available, so I stick to buying just Wayne Goss and Sonia G brushes from Beautylish. Wayne Goss’ UK website has a higher free shipping minimum, but shipping is only €5. So, if I’m making a small order of Wayne Goss brushes, I prefer to use the official website instead. The brushes are still packed well and arrive within several days to a week.
I hope this information has been helpful. Thank you for reading. I’ve already begun working on a draft for Part 10, but I anticipate it won’t be out for several months. Be sure to check back here or click follow to be notified by email whenever I have a new post!
I have my fude manufacturer favorites, so it’s rare that I feel compelled to give another brand a try. The hair types used in these brushes and the more affordable price were some of my biggest motivators for wanting to try Number Eight brushes.
Other than the brand’s Instagram, which links to their official Japanese website, the only place I could find information about Number Eight was from the FudeBobo website. What is written there can be summarized as this: Number Eight belongs to a well-known fude manufacturing company (nicknamed Brand H) and their many characteristics are visible in these products, including the signature scent of goat hair.
Some OEM companies proudly list on their websites who their top clients are. When it comes to “H,” the Number Eight brand is now the third unannounced brand I know they’ve made brushes for. It remains a badly kept secret, but because they wish for it to be kept that way, I won’t explicitly list the name of the company here.
The reason I personally like knowing the manufacturer is because it helps me gauge whether or not I will be happy with the brushes I’m purchasing online that I’m unable to see and handle in person. For instance, I don’t like Sokoho goat hair from Koyudo, but I don’t mind Sokoho if it’s from Bisyodo. I know that Koyudo’s Silver Fox hair is similar in feel to Chikuhodo’s version of Premium Silver Fox versus their regular Silver Fox brushes. When I don’t know who the brush maker is, I’m taking an expensive gamble in the hopes that I won’t be disappointed with the products. For brands like rephr or Sonia G, they have hype from thousands of customers and plenty of influencers to vouch for the products. However, Number Eight is relatively new with extremely limited availability online. If I was unable to figure out the manufacturer, I would not have taken the chance on these brushes, and I would have definitely been missing out, because they are lovely!
The major companies usually have a “more affordable” line on offer. For example, it’s the Cheri line for Bisyodo, the Regular Series for Chikuhodo, the Koyudo BP Collection while it was around, and the J series from Hakuhodo. Those that like Hakuhodo’s J series will likely be pleased with the brushes in this post today.
*DISCLOSURE: The links in bold blue font (Example) are standard non-affiliate links. Links marked in bold black font with a light blue background (Example) are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to get a commission if someone clicks them and then makes a purchase. All of my officially labeled Number Eight brushes were purchased with my own money from the Fude Bobo website, which I am not affiliated with.
Number Eight Face 07 Cheek
Full Length: 192 mm / 7.56 in
Hair Length: 32 mm / 1.26 in
Hair Width: 13 mm / 0.51 in
Bristle Type: Dyed Saikoho
The reason I wanted this brush is because of how much it reminded me of Bisyodo’s CH-HC brush, which has been my holy grail highlighter brush for years. I have a backup brush that I once painted in order to make the handle look prettier, but I wanted to get the one from Number Eight in the hopes that it would perform similarly while having a thicker sturdier handle. It’s also the case that when I bought my first CH-HC it was listed as Saikoho hair, but CDJapan eventually changed the listing to Sokoho. My backup CH-HC felt different and could be Sokoho (albeit the softest Sokoho ever), but I still don’t know if my original is Saikoho or not. This was another reason I didn’t mind getting the 07 brush, so that I could have a Saikoho backup. As it turns out, they are shaped differently. Bisyodo’s brush head comes to a longer pointier tapered tip. It’s much more of a candle shape. The 07 reminds me of the shape of my Hakuhodo 5521, but in a dyed saikoho version instead of my original blue squirrel goat mix. The brush had also grown wider over time and was never as pointed as it looks in website photos.
Even though the head shape is rounder, the hair staggers up towards the tip, so it functions as if it’s at an angle from the way product gets picked up. For that reason, this still allows me to precisely apply highlighter. It admittedly gets dispersed in a slightly wider area than the Bisyodo brush, and my original Bisyodo brush hairs feel a little softer. For that reason, I started using the 07 to apply bronzer around the perimeter in a smaller than usual area, contour in a softer diffused fashion, and when mixing blushes if I want another color just on the apples of my cheeks.
I’m pretty set in my ways, so even though I found multiple uses for this brush, I just go right back to using my favorites. This is a decent brush, but if someone has a similar brush already, getting this one isn’t necessary.
Number Eight Face 08 Fan
Full Length: 193 mm / 7.6 in
Hair Length: 28 mm / 1.1 in
Hair Width: 18mm x 12mm / 0.71-0.47 in
Bristle Type: Dyed Saikoho
The reason I wanted this brush is because the Wayne Goss original Fan 15 is the best fan brush in my collection, but I don’t have a backup of that one. It was a happy mistake that this brush turned out to be way thicker. This is packed with a lot of hair, but I consider it to be a medium density and flexible bristle brush the splays widely enough to diffuse nicely without losing too much precision or applying too lightly. The Number Eight 01 Highlight Fan brush is probably more similar to Wayne’s Fan 15, though I don’t have it in person to know for sure. This 08 brush is like having a smaller, airier, and natural hair version of the Patrick Ta Contour Brush (another holy grail). I am absolutely thrilled to have this! I can pick up bronzer with one side for more precision in a smaller area, like going around the sides of my face and under the cheeks, or turn the brush sideways to apply to a wider zone. I can apply contour in a small, but partly diffused way. This also works for applying highlighter to a wider than usual, yet diffused, area.
Even though this has the same hair type as the 07, I wonder if the hair in this one came from another batch or supplier, because it’s significantly softer. For anyone who likes thick fan brushes, I recommend giving this one a try.
Number Eight Face 10 Contour Angled
Full Length: 201 mm / 7.91 in
Hair Length: 35mm-20mm / 1.38-0.79 in
Hair Width: 18mm – 22mm/ 0.71-0.87 in
Bristle Type: Squirrel mix Saikoho goat
The Face 11 is what set things in motion regarding me wanting to try this brand. I love the hair mixture so much that I wanted to give the Face 10 a try, even though I’m very picky when it comes to angled brushes.
My favorite uses for this brush are for blush and bronzer. I can technically use this with highlighter as well, but this splays even more than the Face 08, so I don’t bother. This is also why I don’t contour with it either, but that splay diffuses products so beautifully! It’s like having a bigger and softer version of the Sonia G Lotus Detail Brush! It makes applying blush easy to keep contained to the area I want by sweeping it along the cheekbones. It’s on the lighter end of medium density with enough squirrel hair (I believe pine) to feel pillowy soft, but with enough goat to add shape and structure that’s capable of quickly blending and buffing. It picks up a nice amount of product and disperses it so evenly on the cheeks, which also adds to the swiftness in which I can finish applying blush or bronzer. The only reason I end up using this brush proportionally far more times with blush than bronzer is because the Bisyodo B-F-05 Perfect Fit Brush is still my holy grail bronzer brush.
For anyone who loves the Sonia G Lotus Detail Brush or angled brushes, I recommend trying this one!
Number Eight Face 11 Cheek/Highlight
Full Length: 201 mm / 7.91 in
Hair Length: 35 mm / 1.38 in
Hair Width: 16 mm / 0.63 in
Bristle Type: Squirrel mix Saikoho goat
In my Fude Collection Part 8 post, I mentioned that I had a brush called the Eihodo No.153 Highlighting/Blush Brush. It was listed as an outlet brush from Eihodo, but it had the same hair type and labels (Face 11) as the Number Eight Face 11, including an identical looking ferrule and handle. The reason I was incredibly confused was because it was under the Eihodo name on the CDJapan website instead of Number Eight or even “Brand H” whose brushes they only sell via proxy. Then, I thought about the fact that Eihodo is a producer and not manufacturer, so any company’s brush could be listed under them as long as they were the ones who procured them.
The bottom line is that I loved this brush so much and wished for CDJapan to release more. I vaguely remember seeing other brushes of this hair type being released in the outlet, but I didn’t buy them because I wanted larger face brushes instead. I waited for the brush to restock, but it never did. I still held onto hope that more would come, but CDJapan actually deleted the product pages for all of brushes that look like they came from Number Eight. So, I lost hope. However, when I realized these brushes were available through the Fude Bobo website, I had to try more, including buying a backup!
In the photo below, my official Face 11 is on the left and is much pointier in shape. My unofficial Face 11 is on the right. I am assuming the reason the unofficial one ended up being sold as an outlet brush is because of the fact that it’s not as candle-shaped as it was supposed to be.
In terms of performance, I do notice a difference. At first I preferred my outlet version because the more evenly shaped tips form a more even distribution of pressure on the face. The size is perfect for small pans like in the Hourglass Ambient Edit Palettes. However, I’ve gotten some new makeup that have even smaller sections of product, such as the Givenchy 4-Color Pressed Bronzing and Sculpting Powder. The non-outlet brush’s pointier tip makes it easier to dip into such small blocks, so I can apply the contour shade more precisely. It still has the benefits of dispersing product in a way that isn’t too harsh, nor too soft, and is still gentle on the skin.
The Face 11, in the way it was intended, is technically a more useful brush, so I’m glad I bought it too.
Number Eight Eye 17
Full Length: 173 mm / 6.8 in
Hair Length: 18 mm / 0.71 in
Hair Width: 5.5 mm / 0.21 in
Bristle Type: Squirrel mix Saikoho goat
Sonia G makes my favorite eye shadow brushes, but considering the maker of these and the hair type, I thought chances were high that I’d like the ones from Number Eight.
Through prolonged use, this brush is a little fluffier in width, so the point doesn’t look as pronounced. However, I’m still just not a fan of this brush purely due to the shape. I like my tapered blending brushes to be rounder for a wider area of blending pressure. When it’s pointed like this, the strongest pressure is mainly at the highest point in the center, which means it takes longer for me to blend with that smaller surface area. I see how it’s supposed to be useful for getting in the crease for hooded eyes, but then I prefer to just use a smaller brush in the shape I like, such as the Sonia G Mini Booster. I find myself repeatedly squashing the Eye 17 into my skin to try and increase the pressure to increase the blending power. Every time I’ve used this brush, I wished to swap it with something else.
I apologize, but my preferences are too strong to be objective on this one. I only own a few of these type of brushes in my collection because I always end up casting them aside in favor of a different shape. I’m sure there are people that will use and love this brush. It feels soft and non-irritating on the skin. I just don’t like it for myself.
Number Eight Eye 18
Full Length: 166.5 mm / 6.55 in
Hair Length: 11.5 mm / 0.43 in
Hair Width: 10mm-3mm / 0.39-0.12 in
Bristle Type: Squirrel mix Saikoho goat
I have a ton of flat shader brushes, so I don’t feel I’m being biased when I say I dislike this brush too. I can name at least four that I like better, including the Sonia G Builder Pro that comes to a taper too. This brush head is too stiff for me. It applies product to the lids well, but it’s uncomfortable if I try to use it to apply eyeshadows to the crease, the way I have been doing a lot lately with my Muragishi Sangyo MS-4 Mai Sakura Brush, Sonia G Builder Three, Mizuho MB123 Eye Shadow Brush, etc. So, I can accomplish my tasks with it, but it’s never an enjoyable experience. Because of the discomfort from the stiffness, I like the Eye 18 even less than the Eye 17. Something like the Eye 8 would probably be more to my preference, but it’s not available in this squirrel-goat mix, so I didn’t buy it.
This concludes my venture into the world of Number Eight brushes! I hope this has been helpful!
Welcome, lovers of Japanese makeup brushes! If this is your first time visiting, I’d like you to know that I have a page with every Fude post linked, as well as a description of the topics discussed in those posts and a list of which brushes are in which posts. I recently changed the format to make it easier to type and find specific brushes. If this is not your first time here, welcome back!
Regarding my measurements, “hair width” is measured from the widest part, regardless of the overall brush shape. I don’t measure thickness. Anything with an asterisk indicates that I had to measure that one myself as those numbers were not listed on the website. All figures listed in inches are converted estimates.
With costs of materials ever increasing and supply of certain hair types being harder to acquire, brush prices also increase. So, the prices I’ve listed might not reflect what is current, though I will do my best to keep them updated.
*DISCLOSURE: Non-highlighted links in bold blue font (Example) are standard non-affiliate links. Links marked in bold black font with a light blue background (Example) are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to get a commission if purchases are made directly using my link. Whether you click to shop through them or not, I appreciate you visiting and I hope you find the information I’ve provided to be helpful!
BISYODO
Bisyodo B-F-05 Perfect Fit Brush
Full Length: 168mm / 6.6 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *56mm / 2.2 in
Bristle Type: Fox and Saikoho Goat
Handle: African Rose Wood (Bubinga)
Ferrule: 24KG Plated Brass
In my Fude Part 7 post, I talked about my number one favorite powder bronzer brush being tied between the Sonia G Jumbo Bronzer and something else. This brush is that “something else.”
The mix of fox and saikoho goat hair makes it feel ultra soft, plush on the skin, and it has a bit of bounce/spring to it. Product gets picked up along the longest hairs in the center while the rest of the hair acts to simultaneously buff product while it’s being applied. The same things I love about Sonia’s brush holds true to this one: the large surface area covers the face in bronzer quickly, but also semi-precisely due to the shape. It tucks into hollows well and glides smoothly around the perimeter. This brush feels firmer and denser than Sonia’s, which is why it’s fantastic when I want to use a bronzer that’s on the sheerer side and don’t want to spend as much time building it up. It still applies in a slightly dispersed way so that I don’t get any harsh lines. By the same token, if my bronzer is highly pigmented, I switch to the Sonia brush instead. Most of the time I want a diffused natural looking bronze to my face. In the uncommon times when I want a more chiseled look, I can sharpen the edge with concealer or use a different bronzer/contour brush entirely. So, even though this Bisyodo brush is very similar to Sonia’s, it can’t replace it. I have need for both in my collection.
Sonia G’s brush is beautiful and I like the blue lacquer. For my preferences, the Bisyodo brush is even more beautiful with the color of the bristles, the gold ferrule, and the beautiful lacquer covered wood. Plus, as soft as the Jumbo Bronzer brush is, the Perfect Fit brush is without a doubt softer. The brushes were the same price until Bisyodo raised theirs a few weeks ago. Sonia has mentioned price increases for her line coming soon, so they might become closer in price again sometime in the future. Having this Bisyodo brush is why I’m content to skip getting the Sonia G Niji Pro. I highly recommend trying this one! If I lost this brush, I would replace it without hesitation. My wish is that Bisyodo will one day make a fully round and dense blush brush using this same hair combination. If they did, I would buy it too!
I bought my brush for 14091 YEN, but it’s 18500 YEN now, and available HERE.
Bisyodo B-FD-01 Foundation Brush
Full Length: 155mm / 6.1 in
Hair Length: 28mm / 1.1 in
Hair Width: 38mm / 1.5 in
Bristle Type: Saikoho Goat
Handle: African Rose Wood (Bubinga)
Ferrule: 24KG Plated Brass
This brush is super soft and very dense. It’s a Fu-Pa style brush intended for foundation use, but shapes like these can be nice with contour or brontour too. For foundation, it soaks a lot of product, but the smooth even blend on the face is very nice. I never use up foundation entirely before it goes bad, so I don’t mind wasted product. However, the bristles start to gunk up at least twice as fast as other natural hair foundation brushes, which isn’t good because of needing to wash it more frequently. The brush is more prone to losing hair or snapping tips when it’s too coated in product. So, longevity long term may be an issue with continued liquid and cream use. I didn’t start using this brush until early 2024, so I’m not in a position to say how it will fare after a year or two, but so far so good for me. I try not to use this brush with liquids more than five times between washes. The photo below shows the brush after a single use.
I mentioned contour or using bronzer-as-contour as possible uses because the shape lends itself to that kind of task, but the density of the brush is going to give a more concentrated application. Someone that likes a diffused and airbrushed look would be better off using a brush with a bit more splay and airiness. This brush doesn’t have much bend or movement, which is why it’s so effective for foundation. I’ve used this brush with blush a couple of times, and while it applies the product well, it requires more buffing than I want to bother with when I could have just switched to a less dense brush. Even though it’s not my main foundation brush, I still like it and am glad I added it to my arsenal.
I paid 11,000 YEN for this brush, it’s currently 14300 YEN and available HERE.
Bisyodo G-P-01 Powder Brush
Full Length: 180mm / 7.1 in
Hair Length: 48mm / 1.89 in
Hair Width: *30mm (prewash) / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
Handle: Ebony
Ferrule: 24k gold-plated
This brush is super airy. It’s intuitively better for powder, but can also be used with blush and bronzer. It’s best used for loose or lightly pressed products because these hairs are even more delicate and soft among gray squirrels, so it doesn’t have the best pickup. The long hairs give an interesting feel on the skin between the pressure and movement, especially when trying to apply blush. It’s definitely not intended as a workhorse type of brush. I can buff very lightly with it, but it’s more for building up of light washes of color and producing an airbrush affect rather than creating a full on pigmented look. I would say this is ideal for natural and simplistic makeup lovers. Those with sensitive skin and/or dry skin that want the minimum amount of powder needed for their face will very likely love this brush too.
This is part of Bisyodo’s Grand Series, which I think can be considered the crème de la crème of their lines the way the Homare Series was supposed to be for Chikuhodo or the Vermillion series is for Hakuhodo. Taking into account what Bisyodo considers is the use of premium quality gray squirrel, the weighty ebony handle, and the ferrule plating, the price is a little more justified than I originally gave credit for prior to holding it in my hands. I’ve come to realize that I consider a lacquer handle more luxurious than matte ebony (though I like Eihodo’s ebony handle brush), so I still prefer the handles of Bisyodo’s Long Series. However, it all comes down to tastes and I’m sure there are plenty of people who love the aesthetic of the Grand Series.
I reviewed these together with Wayne’s Non-Fude brushes HERE. I decided to keep the photos for the Fundamentals in this post anyway, for those expecting natural hair brushes to only be within this Fude Collection Series.
In the post that’s linked, I also mentioned that I have a hunch that WG brushes have a new producer. The batch of hairs in his relaunch feel softer than the older goat hair brushes. A certain OEM has bumped up their prices so dramatically and are mixing most of their goat brushes with synthetic fibers, so I’m not sure how likely it would be for the WG line to have these brushes at these prices if they we made by who I assume they were made by. Regardless, whoever makes them are doing a good job (mostly).
Wayne Goss F2
Full Length: *165mm / 6.5 in
Hair Length: 30mm / 1.18 in
Hair Width: *22mm / 0.86 in
Bristle Type: Saikoho
TLDR: Super soft. Common Shape. Sheds like crazy, just like the previous #13 Brush.
Wayne Goss F3
Full Length: *172mm / 6.77 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *30mm / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: Saikoho
TLDR: Even softer than previous Wayne Goss goat brushes. Good for building up products. Airy, yet precise.
I would love to be able to review the whole set, but I don’t have access to the other two brushes anymore.
I find this combination of hair extremely visually appealing , and thought the set was well priced, so I bought it from Fude Japan. The blush brush is similar to the J5545 that I reviewed in Fude Collection Part 6. The main difference is that the pink handle version is a bit fuller with a more defined angle. This makes it even better suited for fitting in the hollows and angles of the face for bronzing and contouring, so long as it’s not a hard pressed product.
This brush is somewhere between light and medium denseness. I can pick up a decent amount of product by pressing the whole angled side into the makeup pan and sliding it, but it’s not intended for heavy makeup applications. I mostly use this to sweep on blush and apply the angled section precisely where I want more concentrated color, then pounce what’s left on the brush around the edges for a diffused look that doesn’t require much more blending than that. There’s enough goat in this mix to allow minor buffing only, but buffing doesn’t seem necessary to me when I’m able to get the results I want super easily just by using the patting/pressing technique.
KOYUDO
Koyudo Yoshiki Silver fox Cheek Brush Y-SFC
Full Length: 163mm / 6.41 in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: *28mm / 1.1 in
Bristle Type: Silver Fox
What a beauty! I always wanted one of the silver handle Yoshiki brushes, and fox is my favorite hair type, so this was a bucket list purchase. It’s also described on CDJapan’s website as having a 3D shape, and I mentioned in Fude 7 that Koyudo’s 3D brushes always entice me.
The hair feels super silky like premium silver fox. I really like salt-and-pepper brushes (mix of grey squirrel and high grade goat hair), but this brush feels even better than those! This gives a soft application of bronzer and blush, and serves to help one build up the color if desired or keep it looking sheer. The brush head puffs a little more after being washed, and feels even nicer as it bends in and around the curves of the face while it diffuses product. The tips fit nicely into highlighter pans and can apply a beautiful thin layer with no harsh edges.
When a brush is this expensive, I expect it to be large so that I feel like I’m getting my money’s worth. This has a long handle, but the head is medium sized for a cheek brush. However, this size is perfect to handle my face features, so it’s for the best that it isn’t bigger.
This brush costs 21000 YEN and was available HERE. I imagine part of that cost takes into account that it comes in a shredded paper-filled paulownia box that is lightweight yet beautiful. Plus, the handle is stunning!
Koyudo Blush Brush round flat Black
Full Length: 132mm / 5.2 in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: *33mm / 1.3 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Goat
I included a photo of this next to the Koyudo Blush Brush [No Logo] because I expected them to be similarly sized and was disappointed that they were not. They were listed at the same price, had similar looking ferrules and handles without a logo, and have the same hair type. I thought this would be the same brush with a different head shape, but I should have paid attention to the size dimensions. That’s my own mistake.
This reminds me of the Hakuhodo G110A Blush Brush, reviewed higher up, because it has the same hair type and similar shape, but it’s larger and fuller. Plus, this brush feels like it has a greater ratio of gray squirrel compared to goat. At the very least, it’s bundled in a way that the squirrel hair is longer/higher than the goat, which accounts for it feeling softer.
Just like the Hakuhodo brush, it’s easier to use with products that aren’t that hard pressed. I has light-medium denseness and picks up an average amount of product along the angles towards the tips. I mostly use this to sweep on blush, but one could use it with bronzer as well. The reason I don’t is just because I have my bronzer favorites already. This one does the job perfectly fine though. Besides the hair composition, this brush gives a somewhat gentle application because of the length of the hairs and shape of the head in the way that it bends when pressure is applied.
This brush costs 13300 YEN and was available HERE.
Koyudo Pine Squirrel Eyeshadow Brush 17mm Black and Red
Full Length: 142mm / 5.6 in
Hair Length: 17mm / 0.67 in
Hair Width: *15mm / 0.6 in
Bristle Type: Pine Squirrel
Koyudo may change the hair type or handles, but they often sell this shape of brush head (and the 11mm version). I can’t blame them for wanting to keep this style around because it’s a nice classic brush. I consider this in-between a medium and large sized packing brush. I can cover my eye space with one eyeshadow quickly and easily. It picks up the right amount of powder and gently deposits it, whether it’s a matte or shimmer. It bends well into corners and, when turned on its side, can be used for more detailed work. I use it most to lay down shades and crease work with eyeshadows that don’t need much blending.
If you’re a fan of brushes in this shape, size, and hair type, you’ll like this brush.
Full price for these brushes is 4000 YEN. The red handle version is available HERE and the black version is HERE.
Koyudo Pine Squirrel Eyeshadow Brush 11mm Black
Full Length: 135mm / 5.3 in
Hair Length: 11mm / 0.43 in
Hair Width: *9mm / 0.35 in
Bristle Type: Pine Squirrel
This is a small sized packing brush that I use in smaller corners of my eyes and for more detailed work. It picks up the right amount of mattes and shimmer eyeshadows, though I tend to not use this brush with shimmers if it’s in a formula that requires I wear a glitter primer with it or to dampen my brush. This also makes a fantastic liner brush.
The handle looks solid black in photos, but it actually has dark green sparkles too! It’s so beautiful!
The photo below shows the size difference between the 11mm and 17mm brushes from Koyudo.
I paid 3500 YEN for this brush and it’s available HERE.
TANSEIDO
Tanseido Bamboo Series AQ17TAKE Small Cheek Brush
Full Length: 205mm / 8.07 in
Hair Length: 35mm / 1.38 in
Hair Width: *27mm / 1.06 in
Bristle Type: Red Squirrel
This is my first ever Tanseido brush. The length is huge!
The main appeal for me looking into the brand, besides positive reviews, is that they offer more red squirrel brushes than any other Japanese Fude maker, as far as I am aware. Whenever other companies produce a red squirrel brush, they increase the special factor by adding maki-e handles or some other touches that make them even more costly. I wanted a brush that would have enough enough hair to feel and experience what red squirrel is like, considering it’s supposed to be one of the rarest squirrel types to procure, but would also not break the bank. I also wanted a different handle than the classic Tanseido red or blue. Then, Fude Beauty released this brush, a different handle version of Tanseido’s YAQ17! On their website, there are two different options to choose from, but I didn’t notice the drop down menu above the wishlist and cart buttons. So, I ended up with Style: Japaneses Bamboo by default. The spotted version is called Shina-take and would have been the version I picked if I’d seen that’s where the option to choose was.
This brush can be used to diffuse highly pigmented products to targeted areas. It’s extremely soft, delicate, and not for the heavy-handed (though I put myself in that category). It’s ideal for someone that doesn’t want heavy makeup. This means that the only realistic use I have for it is for highlighting. Brushes of this size and shape are commonly used to set specific areas with powder. I personally wouldn’t want to set my wet concealers with it, so I have only tried using this brush this way twice. Not every brush needs to be a jack-of-all-trades, and so I am content to use this to get a thin layer of highlighter on my face. A whisper of product! I think anyone that prefers a sheer application of highlighter will really like this brush.
The closest size comparison I have for this brush is to the Wayne Goss Air Brush.
In terms of construction, the handle is super lightweight! I wasn’t expecting it to feel like a hollow jumbo pencil. I didn’t like this fact initially, but I realized that being surprised by its lightness every time I picked it up was a reminder that I needed to handle the brush with care. I was using it more carefully and gently than my other brushes. Since the hair is delicate, this is a good thing. My hope is that by the time I stop being surprised, I will continue to use it gently automatically.
As a side note, I just wanted to say that there are a few red squirrels I see regularly in the yard. Their fur is so beautiful to look at! Is it strange to say that seeing them makes me wish to have another, thicker, red squirrel brush? Maybe that’s weird.
MURAGISHI SANGYO
MS-3 Mai Sakura Liquid Foundation Brush
Full Length: 150mm / 5.9 in
Hair Length: 25mm / 0.98 in
Hair Width: *26mm / 1.02 in
Bristle Type: Sokoho Goat
I wouldn’t recommend buying this brush with the intent to apply foundation all over the face. I think it was made for people that only want to apply foundation to areas that it’s needed most. The ones who use the technique of starting at the center of the face and working outwards. This brush would also work well for someone who likes to use concealer as foundation, and only cover specific spots. The downside to using it with liquid foundation is that a lot of product gets trapped between the hair, so it will need to be washed more frequently. I also recommend washing it in advance before using it for the first time. It had a major shedding problem, as seen in the photo below, until after the first wash. It still loses more hair, when I use it with liquids or creams, than when I use this very dense cute brush with powder products.
I don’t prefer using this with cream products, because I don’t think it smooths products well enough. However, it’s lovely with liquid blush. I also like it with powder bronzers because it applies product precisely and in just the right amount I want, but it’s not always airy enough for my desired powder blush application. With most of my blushes, it’s fine, but I would definitely not use it with my very pigmented ones. Essentially, the thinner the product, the better the results will be with this brush.
I bought it for 3900 YEN, it’s 4100 YEN now, and it’s available HERE.
CHIKUHODO
Chikuhodo x BoBo Cheek Brush
Post-wash photos above.
Full Length: *160mm / 6.3 in
Hair Length: *41mm / 1.61 in
Hair Width: *30mm / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: Grey Squirrel and Saikoho Goat Mix
This was my first ever purchase from the Fude BoBo (BoBo Do) website! I was a bit hesitant at first, seeing as how it was a website I hadn’t heard of before, but the ordering experience was very similar to Fude Japan. It came with a small free extra. The way that Toshiya is the face of Fude Japan, so is BoBo (aka baiyutang11 on Instagram). Just like Toshiya has a collaboration brush line, BoBo has also created brushes with various brushmakers alongside running a retail website. Considering she’s started working with influencers, like Alicia Archer, I foresee the site growing even more in popularity as time goes on. Personally, I’m more interested in the site for the exclusive brushes rather than buying the other brushes I can get elsewhere.
I don’t know if this particular brush will return, but I believe the Chikuhodo/BoBo Nebulae Collection CH-1 brush has a nearly identical brush head. The handles in the Nebulae collection remind me of Sonia G brush handles (which is mentioned on the website that she is an inspiration for the brand owner in trying to learn more about brushes and travel to Kumano personally to meet with the artisans there). The similarity is why I’m happier to have the gorgeous Moon and Rabbit handle instead. Between the holographic moon, shimmering particles on the deep blue background for the gold and silver bunnies, pale gold ferrule, and beautiful salt and pepper color brush head, I am in love!
The performance is extremely similar to the Koyudo Yoshiki Silver brush mentioned here today. This brush just has a longer slant and wider splay. It puffs out a bit more after being washed, which increases the airiness. This gives a sheer application of bronzer and blush, which is why I use it mostly for blush since I prefer a brush to pick up a bit more product with bronzer than this is capable of doing at one time. This is certainly not a brush for heavy-makeup wearers. I can turn the brush onto the tips and pick up highlighter with it to get a lovely sheer wash along the high points of my face. It works well with up to medium-firm pressed products. I wouldn’t bother trying to use it with hard pressed makeup.
I admittedly struggle between wanting to use this brush, because it’s so pretty and I enjoy the feel of pouncing it on my face, but also not wanting to damage or ruin it in any way. So, sometimes it gets put in rotation, but not for long periods of time.
I did buy one more exclusive brush, but it will discussed in Fude 9 because it was delivered to the US. I haven’t seen it in person yet!
EIHODO
On my Fude Collection index page, I wrote that I have a question about Eihodo handles. That’s in the Eihodo No.142 section, for those specifically wanting to read about that.
Eihodo Cheek Brush + Cap
Full Length: 155mm / 6.1 in
Hair Length: 37mm / 1.46 in
Hair Width: *27mm / 1.06 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
This brush was 7200 Yen at Fude Beauty and came with a SWS-2 brush cap to be stored in. As far as I am aware, CDJapan hasn’t released this brush (as of the time I’m working on this post). The most similar one I could find on the website is the Eihodo No. 170 Outlet Blush Brush with the same listed specifications and both the shape of the head and handle look quite similar. It’s listed at 7500 but was sold at the reduced price of 4125. The most similar one I can think of to compare is a brush I bought far more recently, the Eihodo No.399 Blush Brush. The main difference is the handle being round and matte black instead of pointed and shiny red. The outlet brush is also slightly bigger because it has some sokoho goat used to fill it in. It’s not a pure gray squirrel brush, even though it still feels very soft. On my face, I can feel the tiniest bit more friction, but that’s it. I wouldn’t classify it as rougher, but I also don’t have sensitive skin.
This brush feels extra silky, even for gray squirrel. The middle section is semi-dense, but the tips splay quite a bit wider around the edges while the center has less movement while being swirled on the face, giving it an airy quality. This brush is good for diffusing highly pigmented products for a softer look. It can be for used for blush, targeted powdering, and bronzing. Since round brushes in this size are my preference for blush, I only use it for that.
The brush cap is fine. I keep this brush stored in it, but I have another one from Eihodo. These are better at not squishing the bristles of non-symmetrical shaped brush heads than a standard brush guard. However, I don’t use guards or caps all that often, so I stopped buying them.
There isn’t much else to say about this brush. It isn’t a unique shape. It performs exactly as one would expect of a gray squirrel blush brush. Considering the prices of brushes these days, I’m surprised it wasn’t above 8000 YEN!
Ever since my Blendiful ripped towards the beginning of the year, I have been mainly using this brush for foundation (alongside other foundation brushes that needed to be tested or my Smashbox Full Coverage Foundation brush). I still used it throughout 2023, but I’ve had it in rotation consistently in 2024. My foundation goes on so smoothly with this brush! I get an occasional loose hair, but even less frequently than other large fully round brushes that I own. I’d also like to note that this is the only fully natural hair brush I’ve ever loved using with foundation. Some I have liked, but none enough to use regularly, other than this one. I should note that this has dyed bristles and brands don’t recommend using dyed goat hair with creams and liquids. However, I continue to do so with no issues that I can see. For anyone wanting to use white undyed hair, that version can be found HERE.
I am so impressed that this is a Sokoho brush because there’s no scratchiness on the skin. It is an absolute joy to buff or glide it across my face. Purely because of its large surface area, I don’t use it for bronzing or blush application. It is fantastic at picking up stiff pressed powders and depositing a nice even layer, regardless of it being a powder foundation, setting or finishing powder. The Chikuhodo FO-2 is a holy grail brush that I use with another holy grail product, the Dior Powder No-Powder. This would be an easy replacement brush if the FO-2 needed washing, especially since this puff brush is bigger and covers my face even more quickly. However, since I’m always using it with foundation, it needs washing more frequently than the Chikuhodo brush. So, it’s always occupied. I’m tempted to make a switch though!
*In the last two months I did make the switch and I’m just as happy!
I paid 9000 YEN for it, it’s 10000 YEN now, and it’s available HERE.
This is essentially the same brush I just reviewed above. The differences are the handle designs and dyed versus undyed goat hair. The only relevant new information to provide is that the white hair is silkier feeling because it hasn’t been put through the dye process. I am keeping this for collector purposes and will continue to use the black hair version, though perhaps I should consider using the black one with finishing powder and reserve this one for foundation.
This brush is currently 10000 YEN and it’s available HERE.
Eihodo No.49 Blush Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 148mm / 5.8 in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: *28mm / 1.1 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Sokoho Goat
I find it super interesting how similar the Eihodo 49 looks compared to the Houkodou Nagi Series N-F1. The handles and ferrule are practically identical, minus the symbol. I wonder if the handles are made by a different company other than Eihodo/Chikuhodo or Houkodou? I never really thought about who makes Fude handles before, and just assumed all the OEMs make their own. In any case, the hair is the same mix too (though I think my Eihodo one has slightly more goat, but I can’t tell a difference on my cheeks). Anyway, I’m thrilled to basically have an accidental backup of the N-F1!
Now that I’m more used to how soft Eihodo’s sokoho feels, I can tell this brush has a mix of hairs, but they did an amazing job blending them together so that one could almost forget it doesn’t solely contain gray squirrel hair. This brush is slightly less soft than that one due to the suspected increase in the Sokoho part of the mixture, but it feels like full squirrel hair to the touch. It looks nice and full for a medium-sized blush brush and has a substantial amount of hair, but it’s bundled in a way that it doesn’t seem very dense. It has about medium firmness with a wispy feel at the tips. I like to swirl and buff it on the cheek in a circular motion. Just like many other cheek brushes, it can be used for other purposes, but I prefer to stick to blush.
How fortuitous! I found myself another brush that’s similar to the Houkodou N-F1! Good thing I enjoy it so much!
The way this differs from the other two is that it has gray squirrel hair exclusively. It’s smaller than the others in a way that I consider would be the equivalent of just removing the sokoho hair from the other two. The handle the makers chose is also significantly shorter. The hair type makes it feel like the airiest of all three and also the least dense, though it’s not a floppy brush by any means. It performs similarly to the others and has the same usages, though I’m even more inclined to only use it with blush due to the size and light application.
This had the reduced cost of 3850 YEN and was available HERE. I hope it’ll one day return in stock because that was quite the deal regarding the price!
Eihodo No.82 Powder Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 160mm / 6.3 in
Hair Length: 45mm / 1.77 in
Hair Width: *36mm / 1.41 in
Bristle Type: Goat
I’m not sure if it’s just the shape of this brush that makes it feel a little less soft than Sokoho from Eihodo usually feels. It’s not prickly. The hairs just feel a little drier and less smooth.
Picking up product from the tips doesn’t coat the brush as evenly as I like. I lay it along the length into powder compacts to pick up product from the wider side. This works for sweeping on a nice application of blush and face powder. I can’t lay the brush the same way when applying bronzer, so I have to use the tips, and never like the finished outcome.
For these reasons, I can’t recommend this one. However, if someone is curious to try it anyway, it cost me 2200 YEN and was available HERE.
Eihodo No.88 Blush/Powder Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 155mm / 6.1 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *34mm / 1.33 in
Bristle Type: Sokoho Goat
This brush looks quite different after being washed. I thought it had the tiniest slant of an angle, but it does not. It’s like a chubby fan shaped brush from the front, but is rounded enough at the top to be swirled around.
It can be used with blush, bronzer, and contour. It has a lot of hair in the bundle, but the way it’s puffed out leads to gentler applications than I’d expect from a sokoho hair brush. The lower half of the head has average firmness, but from the middle where it begins to taper up, it’s airier. It doesn’t pick up as much product as I expected either.
I have other brushes similar to this in my collection that are made from a higher grade of goat hair, so I’m less likely to keep using this one when I have those to choose from. I admittedly bought this for the handle anyway. It looked so intriguing!
This is made with a soft hair type, but it’s bundled so firmly that it can still feel stiff when used in sensitive spots like the inner corner and lower lash line. There is not much bristle movement, except around the very tips in the upper third of the brush head. This allows one to steadily line the eyes, but get a light amount of pigment or pass over the spot a few times for a medium application. This doesn’t pick up a lot of product, even if the brush is swirled several times in the pan in the attempt to coat it. So, it’s better suited for someone who likes soft eye looks. With mattes and loosely packed shimmers, the look can be built up to a certain extent. However, trying to build up a thicker shimmer is time consuming.
This brush can be used for soft liner and highlighting spots around the eyes.
I’ll include a comparison photo between this brush (post wash) and the next one.
Eihodo No.141 Shadow Liner Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 180mm / 7.1 in
Hair Length: 7mm / 0.27 in
Hair Width: *4mm / 0.16 in
Bristle Type: Weasel
I only need a few angled eye brushes in my collection, and I misplaced the one I brought with me, so I decided to get this brush. Since it was technically a purchase I shouldn’t have had to make, I didn’t want to spend much for it. I was considering getting the Chikuhodo GSN-11 that this resembles a lot: the gold colored ferrule crimped the same way, similar size overall brush dimensions, weasel hair, pearly white pointed tip handle.
Despite this hair type, it doesn’t feel pokey when lining the eyes. It gives decent color payoff with eyeshadows and feels semi-firm, but not too stiff, around the inner corners, lower lash line, under the brow arch, nor the brows when used to fill them in. I’ve used this with powders, cream, and liquid products, and it does a good job. It’s great for precision detail eye work, cleaning up the outer corner of the eye with concealer, and spot concealing on the face. I haven’t tried it with lip products, but it theoretically should make for a good lip brush pencil as well. I consider this a solid purchase!
This brush I bought before the Chikuhodo x BoBo brush, but I didn’t start using them until around the same time. That’s when I realized they were practically the same brush! This is the kind of thing that confuses me because Chikuhodo lists on their website (or at least used to) that they produce brushes for Eihodo, and Eihodo is listed under label/distributor for this brush. Since this is an “outlet” brush that’s supposed to have some sort of technical flaw, I’ve always been confused as to how or why these are listed for Eihodo instead of Chikuhodo outlet. Perhaps it’s to avoid possible brand devaluation.
I am also unaware of a line/series from Chikuhodo or Eihodo that has this type of brush head beyond the BoBo collab. It makes me wonder if this outlet brush came about while trying to produce the collab version. In any case, I consider this a backup!
Pre-wash comparisons are seen above.
Everything I said about the Chikuhodo x Bobo brush holds true here. It gives a sheer application of blush, bronzer, contour, and highlighter. It’s an airy brush that’s not dense. Pouncing or swiping styles of application is more intuitive for the shaping of this brush. I decided to leave it in the US so I can keep using it there whenever I visit. I kept the collaboration brush with me instead.
I bought this because the shape reminded me of my holy grail Bisyodo brush. I had no idea this would become another of my favorite brushes in my collection! It is perfect to use with the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Edit palettes because of the size, softness, and amount of product that gets picked up on the brush. It’s small enough for strategic placement, but the widest portion gives a slight airiness to the application when moved in circular motions or swiped back and forth. It is easy to use in any direction.
It’s uncommon to have such long handles on brushes, but I really like this. It feels substantial in the hand, but not too heavy on the wrist. I have enjoyed it equally with bronzer, contour, blush, and highlighter. I usually have a preference for usage with multi-purpose brushes, but the outcomes are all so good that I like this in every way! I’ve taken this brush traveling, along with a microfiber cloth, and only felt the need to bring extra eye brushes and a face powder brush, since this one could do so much. I think it’s also extremely well priced. I highly recommend giving this a try, particularly if you have small face product pans and struggle to put a brush in it.
This is supposed to be an Eihodo outlet brush, but I was very confused when I saw an extremely similar brush on the Fude Bobo (Bobo Do) website that even had the number 11 printed on it, but is from “Number Eight produced by H.” The handles remind me of Hakuhodo G series brushes, but why would this be called an Eihodo brush? This has remained a mystery since my purchase of it in September 2023.
In any case, it cost 4400 YEN and I purchased mine from CDJapan.
Eihodo No.161 Highlighting Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 145mm / 5.7 in
Hair Length: 30mm / 1.18 in
Hair Width: *19mm / 0.75 in
Bristle Type: Sokoho Goat
This brush looked like (and had similar specifications to) the Chikuhodo Passion Series PS-3, including having a similar ferrule color. They’re listed for the same retail price too, which felt like I could save 45% on the brush by getting this outlet one. I also think the grain on the wood is stunning, so I wasn’t about to pass it up! I have no idea what type it is, but in the photo below, it’s next to two granadillo handles (Chikuhodo ZEN series and Kazan Homare series).
This brush can be used for powdering under the eyes, nose contour, and technically as a huge eyeshadow brush. The Sokoho hair is soft enough to not feel prickly around sensitive areas like around the eyes, but due to its large shape I prefer to use it as a highlighter brush only. A small amount gets picked up with just one swipe into a highlighter pan, so I can get a sheer even application if desired or build up the concentration.
Honestly though, I just wanted this brush for the handle and ferrule. It makes me happy to look at it and have it. It’s perfectly functional, but I already have my highlighter brush favorites.
At the time, I paid 1760 YEN for this brush that is now listed as 3200 YEN, and it was available HERE.
Eihodo No.165 Blush Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 150mm / 5.9 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *30mm / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: Pine Squirrel and Horse
What appealed to me about this brush is that it looked so similar to another outlet brush, the Eihodo Makie Blush Brush Kozakura listed at the reduced price HERE of 4400. They are nearly the same length, but the makie brush was made of all pine squirrel and that keeps it looking puffier post-wash. I was also intrigued by this brush because of the unique shade of slate-blue ferrule I’ve never seen before, plus the pointed handle.
This brush is softer than if it had horse hair alone, with the advantage of having more blending strength than if this was made solely with pine squirrel hair. That being said, this is by no means a buff brush. It’s got a nice range of movement, and applies a medium amount of product to the face. I would still consider it a brush for someone who wants to build up makeup, but there’s not enough buffing power if the powders are overapplied and need to be blended out. I treat this as the sweeping brush that it is.
I like this with blush the most. It’s okay with bronzer and can be used with highlighter if applied via the tips. This brush has a ton of competition as a blush brush, so I don’t know if I’ll use this brush that much. I’m still glad to have it though.
After washing this brush, it gets puffier, but goes flatter with a wider splay when pressure is applied. It performs sufficiently for foundation, but I don’t like that the application is uneven where the outer parts of the brush are less dense and would normally diffuse while the center part gives a strong application. That’s why I like flat top brushes in the first place in order to get mostly the same coverage across the whole surface area. I feel the same way when using face powder because even though diffusing is good, I don’t want a combination of sheer and light layers that I would have to spend more time buffing parts out.
This works the best with bronzer, though the splay makes it apply product to a wide area, so it’s less precise. Using it with blush does an adequate job as well. This isn’t my favorite brush, in part because I prefer the Eihodo puff shape. I also like it less than the Sonia G Smooth Buffer and Chikuhodo FO-2, although those are way more expensive.
In fact, I don’t think I have an inexpensive flat top in my collection, so that might be a good alternative option for someone, plus the ferrule and handle look beautiful and this is an Eihodo brush, who have some of the softest Sokoho around.
I left the 177 behind because I knew I was going to get a super similar looking brush in the 226. However, it’s possible they are slightly different because I remember liking the 177 a lot more. Then again, I wasn’t using the puff brush at such a steadfast frequency, so it’s possible my enjoyment for the puff brush made me like this one a little less. It’s still a decent brush though, just not over-the-top stellar.
There is the 177 and the 226 that I bought, plus the 212 option for 2520 YEN. For the same price, there is also the 104 that looks to have a similar head as the others, but is listed at 27mm hair length instead of 25mm.
That’s everything!
If this is your first time visiting my blog, thank you for reading! If you’re one of the awesome people that visit regularly, thank you for your patience with how long it took to get this post completed. I am finally nearing the point of completing all pending brush reviews and finally having shown my entire Fude Collection! It might take until the middle of 2025 to complete, due to me rescheduling my return visit to the US. As I mentioned at the beginning, I also reformatted the Fude list so it’s easier for everyone to use CTRL + f keys on the computer to type and search for specific brushes.
Welcome, lovers of Japanese brushes! If this is your first time visiting, I’d like you to know that I have a page that’s accessible on the left menu bar with every Fude post linked, as well as a description of the topics discussed in those posts and a list of which brushes are in which posts. For cell phone users, this page is visible by clicking on Navigation. If this is not your first time here, welcome back!
Regarding my measurements, “hair width” is measured from the widest part, regardless of the overall brush shape. I don’t measure thickness. In some cases, I included widths in a range. This means I happened to measure it prior to washing the brush and the second number is what it bloomed to in size post-wash. Anything with an asterisk indicates that I had to measure that one myself as those numbers were not listed on the website. All figures listed in inches are converted estimates.
With costs of materials ever increasing and supply of certain hair types being harder to acquire, brush prices also increase. So, the prices I’ve listed might not reflect what is current, though I will do my best to keep them updated.
*DISCLOSURE: To those who have been using my affiliate link to shop from CDJapan, thank you so much! The commission from that was used to pay for one of the brushes in this post. Otherwise, all other brushes discussed today were purchased by me with my own money.Non-highlighted links in bold blue font (Example) are standard non-affiliate links. Links marked in bold black font with a light blue background (Example) are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to get a commission if purchases are made directly using my link. Whether you click to shop through them or not, I appreciate you visiting and I hope you find the information I’ve provided to be helpful!
MIZUHO
The Mizuho OEM been around since the 1970’s with its company located in the Kumano area. It was originally part of the calligraphy world, which is why they say they have “180 years of history and experience.” Their focus is on simple brush designs with high performance and functionality of their makeup brushes, cleansing brushes, water color paint brushes, nail brushes, and more. Besides their own line of brushes, like their flagship MB series and others, they are the manufacturers of Shaquda brushes. Additional information on the brand can be found here (including a fantastic video seeing the full brush making process) and here.
Mizuho MB114 Highlighter Brush
Full Length: 169mm / 6.65 in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: *21mm / 0.83 in
Bristle Type: Pine Squirrel / Pony
I’m not the biggest fan of pony or horse hair in my brushes, but I was surprised that this combination of hair was softer than I expected. It’s good at picking up some harder pressed highlighters, such as baked gelee formulas, but I would caution against using it with loose highlighters or softer pressed ones because my issue with this brush is the size. Despite having angles and what seems like a thin section along the side, I very often apply too much highlighter in a wider stripe than I want. It’s not so bad with highlighters that blend out easily, but if I’m wearing the kind that wants to stick where it is placed, I have to switch to a stronger blending brush or apply blush back over the top of the section where it got too low onto my cheeks. This is because the more the brush is used between washes, the wider it fluffs out. I guess this could also be remedied if kept in a brush guard, but I generally don’t use those with non-round brushes. Perhaps I should eventually give it a try.
I tend to apply it along the edge horizontally and then turn the brush vertically to blend it out with that same edge (after wiping off the excess onto a microfiber towel). I do like this brush, and have been using it quite a bit, but only if it’s within reach and my favorites are elsewhere. Those with small faces or are heavy-handed might want to be careful about placement and which highlighters to use with this brush.
I never expected to use this brush as much as I do, but it’s fantastic at picking up eyeshadows and packing them on, is tapered enough at the tips so that I can even use this to deposit and blend out color on my lower lash line, but I can also turn it on its side and blend out the edges of my shadows in the crease as well. I use it in the same way as the Sonia G Builder Three and Builder Pro, but the pine squirrel bristles give it a different feel. What I like about those Sonia G brushes is that they’re tightly packed, so I can have strong buff and blending power but with it still feeling soft on the skin. With this brush, it’s dense but still flexible. It doesn’t have the blending strength as the Sonia Brushes, but because of the way it picks up and disperses the shadows, it doesn’t require a heavy amount of blending to begin with. Of course, this is the case with good to high quality eyeshadows. If I’m using the type of shadow that sticks to the spot its applied on first, this brush applying things heavily but a little more dispersed isn’t going to matter with an eyeshadow that’s tougher to blend. The few times I was able to notice this was when using pressed pigments from brands that are inconsistent with their quality. So, it’s only because I’m always testing new palettes that I ran into a few eyeshadow duds with the brush. In my personal time, I only use eyeshadows I like, and most palettes I buy are good quality and higher. So, this is rarely an issue. I really like this brush and it has become one of the four main packing eyeshadow brushes I use with every eye look. This has been the case for about ten months now!
I bought this brush because I thought it was fully round and wondered if it would be comparable to the Chikuhodo Z-11. The only similarity is the hair type, which admittedly the Chikuhodo brush hair is slightly softer. However, I get a stronger blend with this brush than the Z-11, which is why I like this one much more. This is the most used squirrel eye brush in my collection (besides the MB123), even more than my Houkodou GS-1 and GS-2. It’s because the shape is a combination of a blending brush with the length of bristle and tapered tip, with the width of a packing brush like the Sonia G Builder Pro. However, this preference may change once I start using the Sonia G Keyaki Trio with the Canadian Squirrel hair. I still need to test those out after my long trip ends.
If I have an eyeshadow that I want to pack into my crease, but have it dispersed thinly (but also opaquely and more than a “wash of color”), this is the brush I like to use. I also tend to use it with my starting eyeshadow that transitions into the crease, in addition to highlighting under my eyebrow arch. So, even though I don’t consider this a workhorse brush, which tend to be my favorites, I get quite a bit of use out of this brush for other aspects of my eyeshadow looks. This brush works best with drier formulas like dry shimmers, satins, and mattes. I don’t recommend using it to try and pack on shimmers (the MB123 is better for that), especially these wetter dimethicone heavy shimmers that are growing even more popular these days.
And then just for size comparison, here is the brush next to the Houkodou GS-2. I personally have found this Mizuho brush to be more useful due to the shape and recommend this one over the GS-2.
This is a last minute addition to the post in the sense that it’s on the relatively newer side, but I’m including it here since this is likely the last Mizuho brush I’ll be buying unless they release something new. I set out to try this brand, and I feel like I’ve gotten to do that with the eye brushes at least.
I’m not sure if it’s just that the hairs are longer, but the pine squirrel hair in this brush is the softest pine squirrel in my collection. The MB123 is surprisingly soft too, but as a packing brush that one is tighter packed and bound to effect how it feels. However, despite this one certainly not being floppy, I’m able to feel the quality of the hair and I’m very impressed. I recommend trying at least one pure pine squirrel brush from this brand.
Considering this is a gigantic eye brush, I’m surprised how much I like it. The shape of it aids in precise application despite its size. I can sweep on eyeshadow using the widest part and it picks up quite a bit of product, but I can also apply and blend shadows on the tips, moving the brush side to side. I usually only use large eyeshadow brushes with matte products, but considering the point the brush comes to, I’ve been able to apply shimmers to my lids without too much fallout.
In addition to using this with eyeshadows, it also doubles as a small highlighter brush! I’ve liked the results I got for that purpose with this brush.
Within my collection the closest similarity I can think to compare it to is the Houkodou GS-1. I really like that brush as well, but I prefer this shape and it deposits a little more eyeshadow. This may be a downside for those who like a wash of color, but with my skin tone, the more the better.
All of my limited edition handle Hakuhodo brushes were purchased from Fude Japan, the only place that I know that has them available. I’ve placed multiple orders from them by now with no issues in terms of products arriving to me. There have been a few instances where I didn’t realize a certain brush was on the website or a new one was added before my order shipped, and Toshiya of Fude Japan had been kind enough to make a separate invoice for me so I could combine the orders. The timing of when I order tends to take about two weeks to ship. He mentions on his blog, if I remember correctly, that he goes to the Hakuhodo shop on Saturday and what’s in the shop can be picked up but brushes that have to be sent over from the main factory can take a week or more. It can also take extra time if a lot of people are ordering at the same time. Right before the Hakuhodo price increase, I believe it took nearly a month to ship out. So, for those impatient, this is something to consider if you want a brush that’s available at multiple other websites. However, I’ve always felt it was worth getting these special ones I can’t get elsewhere, including having to absorb that shipping cost.
Hakuhodo S113 Highlighter Brush Round & Flat
Full Length: 174.5mm / 6.87 in
Hair Length: 31.5mm / 1.24 in
Hair Width: *25mm / 0.98 in
Bristle Type: Goat
Handle: Wood
Ferrule: 24-karat gold plated brass with clear coating
This is actually a momentous occasion because at the start of my dive into the fude world, it was my dream to one day own a Hakuhodo S100 flagship series brush. I’ve always credited Wayne Goss for starting my obsession with Japanese fude, because when he first mentioned the brushes he would be making, other people hinted at Hakuhodo being the actual brushmakers. When I browsed Hakuhodo’s US website and noticed they had some less expensive dupes in their own line (at the time), that is what sparked my interest in learning more about them. My first ever fude purchase was with Hakuhodo at the end of 2014, followed by some of Wayne’s brushes a few weeks later. However, my interest in Hakuhodo specifically and those vermilion handles can be attributed to Tati Westbrook who used and loved the S100 series. I could never justify spending more for the special handle, 24 karat gold plated ferrule, and blue squirrel hair when I could spend significantly less to keep the hair and ferrule but get the black handle S100Bk version instead. Even the S100Bk I couldn’t justify when I could lose the ferrule, switch to goat, and get an even more affordable B series version. There’s a synthetic i-series too, but I’d rather get a synthetic fiber brush elsewhere.
I just couldn’t wrap my head around paying face brush prices for eye brushes, and at the time I was definitely unwilling to spend so much on the S100 face brushes, so I thought, “Maybe one day.” As the years went on, the brushes only got more expensive and I didn’t think I would ever be able to justify having one until Fude Japan had this S100 brush listed at the S100bk price at $59! I figured this was my chance after nearly eight years of pining for at least one of these vermilion brushes! I’m glad I did because after the 2022 price increase, the brush is now $97 on the Hakuhodo USA website.
One thing I have heard about the downside to the vermilion handles and the slanted handle edge is that the paint chips easily. This is something I will have to keep my eye out for when using this brush. So far, I’ve been careful and haven’t noticed any issues since my purchase about a year ago. Admittedly, I don’t use this brush that often though because it’s precious to me. Also, I think keeping this brush in a cup with other brushes could increase the chance of it chipping. Most of the time, I keep it in the silicone makeup brush holder/stand like this for example.
I’ve used this brush for highlighter purposes, and it’s fine, but I have other shapes I like better. My preferred usage for this brush is either precision bronzing (especially with a bronzer that’s a bit dark for me, so I can apply it lightly and carefully) or for setting my under eyes with powder. It nicely fits the contours under my eyes. I still have a preferred brush for that purpose (the Real Techniques Setting Brush), but this is leaps and bounds softer. I’m not surprised that these are the two ways I like to use this brush considering it’s the same for the Wayne Goss Air Brush, which reminds me of this one. I took comparison photos below.
Hakuhodo S110Blush Brush Round & Flat
Full Length: 175mm / 6.89 in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: *36mm / 1.42 in
Bristle Type: Goat
Handle: Wood
Ferrule: 24-karat gold plated brass with clear coating
I was content to have my newly acquired S113 be my only flagship brush, however, seeing the S110 for sale on the private account fude_sale_page on Instagram changed my mind. As I started to watch more videos of fude lovers ranking the B110 as their favorite blush brush and it being a staple brush from the brand, I started to regret not buying it. Of course, it’s a bit of a risk to make a brush purchase outside of a retailer site or official selling app, but it worked out for me and I was able to get this beautiful S110 at nearly the same price as the B110BkSL was (in 2022).
Even after the price increase, I ended up ordering the Hakuhodo J110 September ’22 Limited Edition Red Handle Blush Brush from Fude Japan. Since the specs and performance are supposed to be the same, it isn’t necessary to give this version of the brush a separate review, but I thought I would at least include some photos of it.
Also, for size reference, the rephr 05 blush brush is similar in size and shape to the the Hakuhodo S110.
I also purchased the Hakuhodo J5523 September ’22 Limited Edition Blue HandleEyeshadow Brush, which is another one I reviewed in my original Fude post, so I don’t think it’s necessary to review again. However, I thought I would include photos of this one also.
Back to the J110, I still use it and it’s a great shape, but because the one I specifically use is pre-owned, I think it’s just not bundled as tightly as it used to be when it was newer. I always keep my rephr brushes in brush guards or aloe sealed to keep them dense because that’s how I prefer to use brushes of this shape and they’d be perfect for me if they were easier to keep dense and not so airy. Even my Hakuhodo travel Hello Kitty brush gives me similar blush results as this one, so I definitely don’t need to buy any more of them.
Hakuhodo F6210 (April ’22 Limited Edition Mint Handle)
Full Length: 168mm / 6.6 in
Hair Length: 28mm / 1.1 in
Hair Width: *36-42mm / 1.41- 1.65 in
Bristle Type: Goat and Synthetic
Although I still prefer my Wayne Goss 15 (discontinued) fan brush because of the flat wedge formed via the tips, I’ve grown to really like this brush! I have several highlighter products now that include thin strips that are tough for any other of my highlighter brushes to pick up solo without mixing with the other shades next to it (like the Bobbi Brown Brightening Blush with the two shimmery strips and the Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Multi Glow Highlighter). So, this brush is quite convenient. Completely opposite to the Mizuho highlighter brush I mentioned earlier, this one gives me the upmost precision. I don’t use it to pick up hard pressed highlighters, but medium and lighter go great with this one. Even wetter highlighters like the Charlotte Tilbury Glow Glide Face Architect highlighter works well because this is combined with synthetic bristles, which I wasn’t happy about at first, but this brush works well with so many formulas, is a great shape, is soft, and easier to clean. So, I’ve come around on the synthetic and goat mix. I can blend in the highlighter pretty well with this brush and although I personally don’t use the baking technique, this would be a good one to dust away excess powder.
Hakuhodo S4001 (April ’22 Limited Edition Green Handle)
Full Length: 180mm / 7.09 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *33mm / 1.3 in
Bristle Type: Goat and Synthetic
We can’t love everything we buy, and this happens to be one of those situations. I have tried to use this brush in so many ways with so many products and I haven’t found a single one that I like this for. The ends are pokey (though not sharp, just the bunches that are packed together are able to be felt when the tips bend from pressure onto the skin), which I don’t like. Using foundation with it is streaky. Cream bronzers don’t blend well enough. Powder bronzers work better, but don’t give me the airbrushed effect that I like. Cream and powder blushes look patchy. I lowkey hate this brush, but I’ve always strongly disliked duo fibre stippling brushes. I hoped this one being from Hakuhodo would change my mind, and I honestly bought it for the gorgeous handle. I wish it could have been more functional though.
This photo shows my other peeve with the brush. I use foundations that tend to be either thick liquids or runny ones. The amount of product “absorbed” by the brush with the runnier ones is excessive in my opinion. I don’t easily go through foundations, so product wasted in my makeup tools doesn’t bother me as much as the thought of how dirty this gets. A simple wiping of the brush onto a microfiber towel isn’t going to cut it. That much above from just one use is a lot.
I consider this a stippling highlighter brush because these hairs are not uniform and have that stippling feel to them, while still being soft. I actually love this one because of the slant. Any of my highlighters that need to be blended out to make them sheerer or subtler is great with this brush because of the way it hugs the curve of my cheekbones and have both firm and softer bristles (softer in the area of hair that splays outside the circumference of the ferrule) that buff out the highlighter without disturbing the makeup underneath. It’s also dispersed a little more widespread as well because of the spread out angled length, which I apply along my cheekbone with that angled side. When I’ve been in a hurry, I’ve also used this brush to set powder under my eyes. The thinner tips bend to fit in the corners, although it can feel a bit pokey due to this specific shape when used that way. For highlighter though, I’ve grown even more fascinated with the Kebi style, so when I see other limited edition handle brushes with this shape, I’m automatically tempted. I’m just not sure if I will like them as much as this when the ones I’ve seen are even longer and look either more dense or less dense. I would certainly be interested in this same brush in an even more dense version.
Hakuhodo B104 Powder Brush Round (L, Gold Handle)
Full Length: 190mm / 7.48 in
Hair Length: 50mm / 1.97 in
Hair Width: *40-50mm / 1.57 – 1.97 in
Bristle Type: Goat
This brush expands a ton after the first wash. When it’s that airy, it’s only really usable for me with loose powders or lightly pressed powders. Something like my Dior Powder no Powder, the one I use most, would be aggravating to try and pick up with a brush like this. It’s one of the largest in my collection, alongside the Chikuhodo FO-9, but even that one is a combination of both airiness and still picking up powders a little easier. Some powder brushes can also be used for blush, but this is much too large for that. Some people love this kind of brush for bronzer, and something lightly pressed could be quite nice for this too, but huge bronzer brushes aren’t what I typically reach for. So, I have very limited uses for this brush. I’m still glad I bought it though to be able to experience a Hakuhodo classic.
Hakuhodo Hello Kitty Slide Face Brush L Round & Flat (70’s) [XB007]
Full Length: 144mm / 5.67 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *32mm / 1.26 in
Bristle Type: Goat and Synthetic
Handle: Synthetic Resin/Black
The slide reminded me of the size of the S110. The shapes aren’t quite the same, but it’s the closest comparison I could find.
I wish I could have gotten the Hello Kitty pink handle version, but I couldn’t find it available for purchase. In any case, I’m not usually interested in retractable brushes, but Jaybirdwalking was discussing it in one of her Hakuhodo on-site showroom videos and said the sliding mechanism was actually well made and the brush was versatile. I agree on both counts. When the brush is showing only a small amount of hair, it’s a nice shape for applying highlighter. The fully puffed out version does okay for all-over powdering (and nice with a loosely pressed bronzer), but I like dense brushes a lot, even for face powder. So, I prefer when the slider isn’t all the way down and the hair is compact and a semi-large size for blush purposes. I’ve taken this on trips with me because it’s a nice multi-purpose brush when one doesn’t want to bring many things, but I still have individual powder, blush, bronzer, and highlighter brushes I prefer to this one. This does many jobs adequately, but none that are a particular favorite. So, this brush doesn’t tend to get much use from me except on trips (though not my current one).
Hakuhodo J7012BkSL Fan Brush [H3926]
Full Length: 170mm / 6.69 in
Hair Length: 30mm / 1.18 in
Hair Width: *42mm / 1.65 in
Bristle Type: Hog
Handle: Wood
Ferrule: Nickel-plated brass
I love feeling and owning different types of animal hair brushes, which is why I bought this one from the Hakuhodo USA website. I actually got a phone call from them because of this brush and them wanting to verify that I understood hog hair is very wiry and hard. Some people in the past have been disappointed, expecting every brush to be soft, so they made it a common practice to check in with the customer before the order is fulfilled. I thought that was quite fantastic customer service. I explained that I expected it to be hard, but that I love collecting every type of hair for a brush I can find, but still asked what most people use these brushes for. The woman on the phone said heavy stage makeup (the thick type that gets painted in large areas and not just for the face but the body) as well as body glitter application.
For fun, I tried to use this on my cheeks as a traditional highlighting brush. I will not be doing that again because it really is scratchy. It’s like the world’s softest floor sweeping broom or soft fishing wire or a paintbrush with dried glue on it. It’s thick and coarse, but the scratchiness doesn’t come from sharp tips. The roughness is noticeable on the face, but not as much of an issue on the body.
What I’ve realistically used this brush for, since I don’t wear body makeup, is to take off the top layer of products that are hardpressed or hardpanned. It loosens things up enough that I can then pick up the kicked up product with another brush to apply the product to my face. So, I don’t need to use something like this very often, but it has come in handy several times. I wouldn’t recommend it to the average makeup wearer, just those who would very specifically need a brush like this for the purposes described above.
Comparison between the F6210 and J7012.
HakuhodoYachiyo(Traditional Powder Brush) Medium Round [H2384]
Full Length: 128mm / 5.04 in
Hair Length: 33mm / 1.3 in
Hair Width: *22mm / 0.87 in
Bristle Type: Goat
Handle: Covered with Cane
This is another purchase made for the style rather than function. I wanted something traditional, like the Yachiyo brush from Nars, but I heard that one has scratchy bristles. This Hakuhodo version is soft, though not as soft as the similar head shape of the Chikuhodo T-4.
With the handle being so short and thin, this brush feels so fragile in my hands despite it having taken no damage yet. It just feels like the wrapping could unravel if I grip it too tightly. For that reason, this brush is mainly decorative in my collection, now that I’ve used it enough times to know that I love the shape and construction of the brush head. It’s just a matter of having this same head with a different handle. That I can definitely recommend. And perhaps one that is slightly bigger because it’s quite small even as a cheek brush. For that reason, it’s even smaller than my usual small brushes for bronzer. I recommend it strictly as a blush brush.
I should also note that I purchased the medium handle size (for $39 at the time), but Hakuhodo sells a “large” size too.
KOYUDO
Koyudo Gray Squirrel Angled Powder Brush [OUTLET]
Full Length: 140mm / 5.51 in
Hair Length: 40-45mm / 1.57 – 1.77 in
Hair Width: *52mm / 2.05 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
Even though I definitely don’t need anymore powder brushes, I couldn’t resist the thick fluffy look to the brush from the website photo, especially for the price. There were only three or five available at the time that the Koyudo outlet brushes were released on the CDJapan website, so I had to act fast. Unfortunately, it was not as thick or fluffy as the photo example. This is one of the rare times that I received something from the outlet options that wasn’t better than I expected.
On the bright side, it’s quite soft. It’s a pretty looking brush and well constructed. The bristles are on the lighter end of medium density. I haven’t had any shedding from it. It picks up lightly pressed powders fairly well. I like how it evenly distributes product on my face. I’ve tried to use bronzer with it, but it was just okay. I prefer keeping it as a designated powder brush and to use it in a sweeping/dusting motion across the face to get a light even layer of powder foundation or setting powder. Because of the shape, I wouldn’t want to use it with a powder that I would typically buff out. It’s an interesting addition to my collection in terms of shapes, but I really didn’t need it and even though it was a good value for the hair type, I should have skipped it.
Koyudo OUT22-18 Heart Shaped Blush Brush [OUTLET]
Full Length: 125mm / 4.9 in
Hair Length: 35mm / 1.38 in
Hair Width: *40mm / 1.57 in
Bristle Type: Goat and PBT
I bought this brush on a whim because I always wanted to have a Koyudo heart shaped brush, which is what I first knew the brand for. I didn’t expect it to actually be functional, but I was even more shocked by the results! I absolutely love using this brush with bronzer! I dip it lightly into the product so that it picks up a little bit of bronzer on both curves of the heart. I then hold the brush against my skin and move the brush left and right with the curves also going in a side to side motion so that both parts are doing double the buffing work one after the other. It picks up the perfect amount of product and builds it up easily. I feel like products go on even smoother with the brush. It was quite the surprise!
Bristle Type: Goat Hair (Sokoho according to the product description section and not the usual spot on CDJapan’s website)
For one final time, Koyudo restocked the Black Handle series which was originally released in 2013 and then discontinued. I wanted one of the brushes in the collection purely for that reason and it was only natural that I chose a blush brush, which is my favorite fude type to purchase. It’s a decent brush, but nothing particularly special. I prefer round shapes, and this one is more ovular. It’s a bit thick to be using for sweeping, but the tapered tip doesn’t feel intuitive for circular buffing motions. I can still use it either way, but it’s not my favorite. Plus, I wish the hair quality was higher. It’s an okay experience on the cheek, but it’s not what I think to grab when there are plenty of softer ones in my collection that I’d prefer to use on my cheeks for that plush soft application experience.
In the off chance that this brush gets restocked once more, the link to it can be found HERE.
CB White Canadian Squirrel Blush Brush (Red Handle)
Full Length: 160mm / 6.3 in
Hair Length: 35mm / 1.38 in
Hair Width: *28mm / 1.1 in
Bristle Type: White Canadian Squirrel
While this is a CDJapan Beauty brand brush, Koyudo is the maker of this brush. I always wanted a White Canadian Squirrel type of brush out of curiosity to see if there really is much difference between this and regular Canadian Squirrel. I feel like this is slightly more resilient than the yellow kind (and more resilient than grey squirrel), but since I don’t have a ton of experience with WC, it’s possible that it’s not always the case and comes down to the batches and supplier.
I’ve used this a few times with blushes and bronzers, but this is honestly a brush I’m not going to get much use out of because the whole special part about it is the rarity of the white tips and I don’t always have the easiest time getting my white brushes back to their pristine color. So, if I use the wrong red blush that stains the hair pink/red or too pigmented of a bronzer for it to turn light brown…I lose the original color and that kind of defeats the purpose of having this hair specifically and I’d have been better off just getting the slightly less expensive Canadian Squirrel. So, my paranoia about it keeps me from using it anymore. This is also why I haven’t explored White Pine Squirrel hair either.
I can say this brush surprisingly worked nicely for blush and bronzer purposes considering this brush isn’t very full, even after being washed, and I prefer round face brushes over sweeping paddle shaped ones. I understand why this hair type is so coveted when it has the benefit of being as soft as grey squirrel while giving a stronger application of powder products. In the future, if I’m able to afford a thicker fluffier version as a face brush, I would probably get one. However, it would have to be in Canadian Squirrel and not White Canadian Squirrel so my fears wouldn’t hinder me from using it!
One other thing I’d like to mention is that at the time I bought it, the USD to YEN was far in favor of US currency, so I bought it for significantly less than it costs now. However, even at that price and with the additional promo coupon deals CDJapan offered, I don’t think this brush is worth the price in terms of function. For such a small amount of hair in the brush and what it can accomplish, there’s so much else out there that can do the same or better for less. In fact, I’d recommend the next brush I’m about to mention over this one. In terms of having something with hairs that are hard to acquire, a pretty handle, and is well constructed, then I can see why a Fude Collector would be drawn to this or other brushes of this type. Getting the CDJapan-Koyudo version is a more cost effective way to experience this than the more luxurious handle version from Koyudo.
Sonia G
Sonia G Lotus Detail Brush
Full Length: 173mm / 6.81 in
Hair Length: 28mm / 1.1 in
Hair Width: *28mm / 1.1 in
Bristle Type: Dyed and Undyed Saikoho Goat
Sonia G is one of my favorite brands for Fude, but I’ve been blunt about how the Lotus Collection didn’t work out for me as well as I wished. I might be missing out when it comes to the Lotus Base brush (but decided I didn’t need it since I very much love and am satisfied with the Patrick Ta fully synthetic Contour Brush), though I know I’m not missing out on the Worker and I was disappointed with the Builder and Cheek, and really don’t like the Soft Definer. I took a chance buying this one when it was available as an individual brush and I am so happy it was worth it!
The brush is listed as being great for blush, contour, and highlighter though I disagree with the highlighter part. Sure, it can be turned along the thinner portion along the angle, but I personally feel it deposits highlighter in too wide of an area. And one can apply it with the tips, but the amount that gets dispersed just isn’t worth the effort to build up and blend out, though I can understand it’s still possible and is just an extra benefit for this already multi-purpose brush. I love using this the most with blushes because the precision allows me to apply pigmented blushes precisely so that I don’t accidentally cover too much of my bronzer. Also the density from the shorter hairs to about the middle of the brush is enough to nicely buff out what I’ve applied, and the less dense middle to longer bristles that splay wider across the slant edge disperses the blush more lightly. This ensures that one has control of where the more concentrated amount of blush goes but it’s still buildable overall and gives a blended affect as the dispersal of product goes from concentrated to least concentrated. Of course, that’s if applying along the angle. Applying in a circular motion mainly applying pressure with that denser portion is better for blushes that are on the sheerer side to those who want maximum color payoff. The special purpose that I have for this brush is due to the shape, overall size, and density which is that I love mixing two different blush shades with this brush. This brush is fantastic when I want a darker color towards the back and a lighter color on the apples. I can create a very easy gradient effect with this one.
As for contouring, this brush fits nicely in the hollows; so I do like it for that purpose. Bronzer wasn’t listed in the website description, but I tried it anyway, and because my forehead is so rounded and the brush is so small it was a little cumbersome trying to use an angled brush for that purpose. Round, round-flat, or flat-tops are my bronzer shape preferences. I haven’t reviewed the Sonia G Jumbo Bronzer Brush here yet, but spoiler alert, that one is amazing! I love it so much. It’s not one that I use all the time, but when I do, it’s such a pleasurable experience.
I initially felt $36 was a lot for such a small brush, but considering I can use it as a great contour brush and a special purpose blush brush, plus it being not much more expensive than Sonia’s eye brushes, I now think it’s a reasonable price.
Also, even though this isn’t one of the fusion brushes (saikoho+synthetics), in addition to powder, I’ve used this with MAC Glow Play blushes (cream/putty) and cream-to-powder formulas on occasion.
Eihodo
Eihodo NO.327 Blush Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 128mm / 5.04 in
Hair Length: 35mm / 1.38 in
Hair Width: *27mm / 1.06 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Sokoho Goat
6000 YEN to 3300 YEN ($24)
This is one of the more disappointing brushes from the Outlet, but not because of the handle or ferrule quality. This brush is visually stunning! It’s just on the smaller side. A 35mm head isn’t too bad in terms of length, but it’s not a very full brush. It’s for the best that it has a pinched ferrule, so it’s at least not as floppy as it could have been. I find this brush only really useful for sweeping blush and no extra benefits like being able to buff satisfactorily with it either. The shape reminds me of an even smaller version of the HS-2 Hana Sakura Blush Brush, but the HS-2 is a way more useful brush. These bristles are a little softer, even though it’s the same hair mix as the HS-2, but I recommend that HS-2 way more because of it being far more efficient and liking it with sweeping on both blush and bronzer.
In case someone still wants this brush and it gets restocked, it can be found HERE.
Eihodo NO.329 Powder Brush [Outlet]
Full Length: 145mm / 5.7 in
Hair Length: 50mm / 1.97 in
Hair Width: *40mm / 1.57 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Sokoho Goat
This brush has a similar handle to the previous one, and similar gorgeous chocolate brown ferrule, but this ferrule is matte whereas the other is shiny. Because this brush has the proportional amount of hair I expect of a powder brush and for the size dimensions, I consider it a much more worthwhile purchase than the previous one. It’s about medium density and does a decent job sweeping on powder, though nothing extraordinary. The mix of hair leads to the brush being soft enough to be satisfying to use, but doesn’t pick up product as well as I wanted considering the amount of goat that is in it. I’m still happy with this brush though when I remember to just use it with loose and lightly pressed powders, and especially soft baked ones (not baked gelee). I don’t expect it to be very versatile, as I keep it to strictly powder use and not blush, bronzer, or contours.
At the time the price was listed as 10000 YEN that was reduced to 6000 YEN ($44). On April 13th, 2023 this brush was restocked for the same 6000 YEN and is available HERE.
Eihodo Makie Blush Brush Kozakura [Outlet]
Full Length: 125mm / 4.92 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *31mm / 1.22 in
Bristle Type: Pine Squirrel
I was so pleased with this brush that I bought two others to give as gifts! It’s Pine Squirrel, so it’s not the softest of the squirrels or even quite as soft as the Koyudo BP017, but it still feels quite lovely. Also, to have such a gorgeous Maki-e handle with it at this price was quite the bargain! Functionally, it’s a little flatter and not as packed with hairs as I’d hoped (altering those two things would have made it perfect), but it’s still workable for a light application of blush. It applies things on the more sheer side because of the smaller width, and it’s slightly airy, while the flexible bristles make it naturally buff better while applying. So, it’s the type that works well with products that one wants applied precisely, yet remain buildable. This is why even though I like it with blush, I enjoy it even more with bronzer applications. It’s not too bad with contours either, though I prefer an angled or even thinner brush for that purpose.
I usually prefer longer handles on my brushes, but the beauty of the handle makes up for it.
I thought it would be interesting to compare it to the Koyudo BP017 that also has pine hair, as well as the CDJapan/Koyudo White Canadian Squirrel Blush Brush.
This brush was priced at 8000 YEN, but I bought it for 4400 YEN ($32). It has been restocked several times, so those who want to save the product page to their bookmarks can find it HERE.
That’s everything I have for this post. I’m so sorry it took this long to finally do, but life throws a lot of unexpected things our way! I still have plenty more Fude updates coming, though per usual, it will be at least a few months for the next one. I have an ongoing directory list here of what’s coming next.
To make things easier to catalogue, I created a page that has every Fude post linked, as well as a description of the topics discussed in those posts and a list of which brushes are in which posts.
In this one today, I’ll be reviewing some of the newest additions to my collection. At the end, I will also include the two brushes I reviewed in other random parts of my blog in order to make things easier for everyone to find in the future. This post got incredibly long and almost overwhelming, so I actually have a Fude Collection Part 5 already in the works!
Regarding my measurements, “hair width” is measured from the widest part, regardless of the overall brush shape. I don’t measure thickness. Anything with an asterisk indicates that I had to measure that one myself as those numbers were not listed on the website. All figures listed in inches are converted estimates.
With costs of materials ever increasing and supply of certain hair types being harder to acquire, brush prices also increase. So, the prices I’ve listed might not reflect what is current, though I will do my best to keep them updated.
*DISCLOSURE: The links in bold blue font (Example) are standard non-affiliate links. Links marked in bold black font with a light blue background (Example) are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to get a commission if someone clicks them and then makes a purchase. Thank you so much to those who have already shopped through my links! Thank you to everyone who supports this blog, whether it’s through an affiliate link, visiting this blog regularly, commenting, following, and likingmy posts! It’s very much appreciated! All the brushes in this review were purchased by me with my own money. The brush I purchased using affiliate funds will be in the Fude Collection Part 5 post.
CHIKUHODO
Chikuhodo FO-9 Powder Brush
Full Length: 166mm / 6.54 in
Hair Length: 51mm / 2 in
Hair Width: *60mm / 2.36 in
Bristle Type: Silver Fox
Handle: Maple Wood
Ferrule: Aluminum
The FO series is one of my favorites from Chikuhodo, so even though I don’t set my face with powder very often anymore, I still couldn’t resist getting this FO-9. It’s packed with fox hair and looks marginally larger than the FO-1, but becomes so huge, fluffy, and airy after being washed! I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a drastic bloom for a brush before. It’s lovely!
When applying powder, it truly feels like I’m putting nothing on my face. Even if I hold the brush closer to the ferrule and try to apply pressure, the hair is so long and flexible that the added force disperses and still doesn’t feel any harder on the skin. It’s perfect for someone with skin that’s sensitive to touch, dry skin who wants to apply the barest whisper of powder to the face, and people who enjoy soft luxurious feeling brushes. This isn’t good for intense buffing because of that inability to add force to the tips. I also feel like it’s so large that I can’t really get this brush to apply enough powder in the crevices of my nostrils, so this is a brush I use specifically for setting or finishing everywhere else. I usually don’t have to set my nose, but occasionally the bulbous tip of my nose and nostrils get oily whereas I have dry skin everywhere else.
From left to right: FO-9, FO-1, FO-2, FO-3, FO-4, and FO-10
Post wash, the FO-9 is significantly larger than the rest of the line in every way. My FO-1 in the photo has been in a brush guard and hasn’t puffed back out yet (to where it would be wider than the FO-3), but it’s still smaller than the FO-9 in width and thickness, as well as 6mm shorter. The $22-$40 price difference (depending where it’s purchased) between those two is justified in my opinion.
This brush is 16000 YEN and can be purchased here.
Chikuhodo FO-10FingerEyeshadow Brush
Full Length: 125mm / 4.9 in
Hair Length: 15mm / 0.59 in
Hair Width: *12mm / 0.47 in
Bristle Type: Silver Fox
Handle: Maple Wood
Ferrule: Aluminum
I love the face brushes in the FO Series, but I haven’t been a fan of the eye brushes, so it says a lot that I really enjoy this FO-10! It’s perfect for one-and-done eyeshadow looks as it applies eyeshadow in a completely smooth and even layer. It picks up a light amount of product, but because of the amount of surface area on that flat angular side (the part that’s supposed to mimic a fingertip) a decent amount overall gets picked up with each tap. The angled edge also helps to be able to build up layers in a controlled way. I can hold the FO-10 like a liner brush to define the crease, as well as flip it 90 degrees to blend back and forth in the crease as well. The curves of the tip keeps it feeling soft and not pointy around my eyes, although that also makes it trickier for me to use for the inner corners if I’m doing more than just a basic eye look. Because of all the ways I can successfully use this brush, I am very pleased with it!
When I saw this brush, I was so excited because the mushroom head shape that it becomes post-wash is exactly what I’ve always wanted in a large bronzer brush! I usually don’t use big brushes for my bronzer because they tend to be shaped in a way that prevents me from being able to keep the product close to my hairline and in not so thick of a section under my cheekbones. This brush has a semi flat portion at the top that allows me to apply the product while simultaneously buffing everywhere else that the rounded edges touch my face. This brush is so poofy with cloud-like softness that blending bronzer with it is everything I hoped it would be. I love it! While I can use this brush for blush as well, it’s much bigger than I like or am used to for cheek application, so I prefer to use a different brush such as one of my holy grail blush brushes, the Chikuhodo T-4.
I don’t use powder foundations, but I have tried this out with my liquid foundations since this is actually intended to be a foundation brush. The T-13 works beautifully for that purpose and I can get a very quick and effortless blend onto my face. The only downside is that so much product remains in the bristles of this brush and the hair is too delicate for me to be able to wipe off every trace of foundation off the brush and then use it for bronzer, blush, setting or finishing powder, etc and needing to wipe it between each use. So, as excited as I was thinking about how versatile this brush was going to be because of the head shape, if I want to preserve the life of this brush, I need to choose one singular purpose. It’s not enough for me to decide to just stick to powders or just stick to liquid. The other complication with this brush is the shedding problem.
This photo was intended to show the width of product that gets picked up by the brush versus the surrounding area without product which helps to buff and blend. It inadvertently also shows a loose hair from simply swirling the brush in the compact before even being used.
Prior to purchasing my brush, I did see a few comments about how many hairs this brush sheds. I was convinced that those people happened to be unlucky in getting a bad brush because I’ve previously only ever had a true shedding issue with 2 out of probably 250 or more brushes I’ve owned in my lifetime. So, I bought the T-13 anyway and made sure to just be extra careful when I washed it for the first time (thinking that might possibly be the issue others had, if there even was a widespread issue at all). Upon taking it out of the package and feeling the brush with my fingertips, I was getting quite a few loose hairs with each pass. I was a bit alarmed, but thought about how packed with hairs this brush is and that perhaps it was overly filled as a precaution to ensure the brush will maintain its mushroom shape. I was extremely careful washing the brush and ensuring no water went into the ferrule, I gently squeezed the excess water onto my microfiber towel, and then I hung the brush upside down from my brush tree as usual. Now that I’ve been using this brush on and off for months, I can say that every time I use this, I lose anywhere from 2 to 6 hairs. This is highly unusual from my experience with my brush collection and this is the reason I don’t even like to swap between using this brush for various purposes if it requires me to do more than some light sweeping on a microfiber towel to clean off my brush. While I am concerned about the longevity of this brush over time, there is still so much hair that I’m not worried about it falling apart on me for at least a few years. It’s dense due to sheer volume, but it retains that airy feel due to the bundling. I currently am using this brush exclusively with powder bronzers and since I still love it so much, I considered whether I should get multiples to use for other purposes. That shedding issue is what stopped me. I’m happy to have this one, but I can’t justify buying more than one. The T-13 was consistently on the list of CDJapan’s top selling brushes for months (having finally been dethroned off the main brush page in the last three weeks), so I’m guessing many other customers are still loving this brush and spreading the word about it.
This brush is a classic! The Passion series has been around since before my Fude journey began, but I decided now was the time for me to see what Chikuhodo’s Sokoho hair feels like. The grades can vary between brands depending on their supplier, so I wanted to see how it compared. Their Sokoho is decent, but I wouldn’t want another full Sokoho brush from them again. In fact, from all brands, the lowest goat grade I will seek out is if the Sokoho is mixed with Grey Squirrel.
What this brush has going for it is the fact that the most dense spot is directly in the center, and the bristles are flexible, which gives me a nice bounce while I’m buffing product in circular motions. I use this brush almost exclusively for blush, though I can use it in the way I want with bronzer too because of the partly rounded top that performs like a flat top. This shape allows me to instinctively buff in circular motions and still feel natural switching to using sweeping motions.
It’s too large for highlighter. I also think it’s too small for all over face powder, though my opinion differs from what the brand says. Because the hair is Sokoho, it picks up a decent amount of product, but because of the density, it also buffs a lot out. This is especially the case if I keep the brush in a brush guard. So, I still consider this best for those that like to build up blush with multiple layers. Because I like bouncy buffing blush brushes, I will likely still continue to use this even though I have softer natural hair brushes I could choose instead.
This brush is part of Koyudo’s Yoshiki Series, even though the main brushes in the series are supposed to be identifiable by the cherry birch wood (mizume-zakura) handles and saikoho goat bristles. I own the 05 Lip & Eyeliner Brush S, but I misplaced that tiny brush and hadn’t seen it for at least half a year. That’s why I figured it couldn’t hurt to buy another liner or pencil brush.
I have this strange fascination with hair and the biggest reason I wanted this brush was to be able to know what raccoon fur feels like. I expected it to be fluffy, but these hairs are a bit course like weasel. Apparently raccoons have underfur (which is soft) and guard hair (which is thick and course), so I’m guessing this brush is made from the guard hair. After washing the brush and using it a few times, it started to have a little more give to it and become a little more flexible without feeling rough or pokey. I have definitely grown to like and enjoy this brush. My favorite purpose for the y-8 is for my eye’s inner corner. It’s not the best with flakier eyeshadows like certain glitter, shimmer, and multichrome formulas, but I do enjoy this brush with my smoother eyeshadows. I even like it with my chunkier shadows as long as it’s still creamy enough to be spread, as opposed to a flakier one that would flick specks of eyeshadow messily around my inner corner. It can pick up a lot or a little product, depending on whether I dot just the tip into the eyeshadow or hold it at a 45 degree angle to pick it up along the side. I occasionally use this for deepening up the outer corner of my eyes if I want to create a sharper edge or line my upper lash line with an eyeshadow. If I want to use this on my lower lash line, I have to be a bit careful not to flick the particles up and into my eyeball, so I use short strokes for that task. While I admittedly still use my Smashbox Double Ended Smudger Brush (Discontinued) way more often, I have no regrets adding this one to my collection.
Since the Bisyodo CH-HC is one of my holy grail highlighter brushes, I wanted to purchase the similar looking B-H-01 as my premium version. The head size and handle weight differences give it a much different feel than I expected and the end result is not alike at all. Since the B-H-01 ends at a wider taper than the CH-HC, the former gives a more diffused look whereas the latter is better for precision and a little more concentration of product.
I found it intriguing that this brush has such a thick handle, even larger of a handle size than the B-C-01 which has a larger brush head. I would have expected the larger brush to have the larger handle, or at the very least for the handles to be the same size considering Bisyodo describes them both as highlight/cheek brushes.
I was a little disappointed at first until I found the perfect purpose for this brush. If I want to only use one section of my Pat Mcgrath Duo Blushes, there are only a few blush brushes in my collection that picks up the amount of product I want, yet is small enough to select from one half without mixing into the shade of the other half. Considering Pat Mcgrath is a luxury brand, using a fancy brush like this with her products adds to the experience. This wasn’t a necessary purchase, but it’s a nice mini splurge.
I follow a lot of Fude-centric accounts on Instagram and I am frequently reminded about how much people seem to love Kolinsky brushes. Prior to this year, my only experience with Kolinsky has been the brushes from Koyudo I’ve reviewed before. Because brushes in the sable family aren’t that soft, comparatively speaking to high grade goat and squirrel, I did not understand the hype. I was using those Koyudo brushes for a while, but then gradually just went back to using goat hair brushes on my eyes.
In May, I decided I wanted to try and give Kolinsky another chance as I was starting to use my Nyx Glitter primer again, which can be harsh on soft natural hair brushes. I also planned to incorporate more gel liners and create some graphic liner looks and wanted to see how that would go using filbert shapes rather than my usual flat angle brushes. Jaybirdwalking on YouTube has a super in-depthvideo dedicated to the topic of Kolinsky and shows her large collection of brushes, which is how I decided which ones would be the best for me to order.
This brush is officially the softest Kolinsky brush I own! For context, I do only own four. It’s comfortable enough that I actually enjoy using it. I like the width of it, to get more product on my eyes at a time. I also like that the tips come almost to a point, which makes it fantastic for using with those gel liners I wanted to use this with. I can get a crisp even line each time and I have the control to make it thinner or thicker depending on the amount of pressure I use. I have no trouble using this for packing on shimmers to my lids, though it can be a little trickier in the folds of my inner corner. While I can use this with mattes too, using it with shimmers (and especially if I want to apply them damp to my eyes) is where this brush stands out. I still prefer my goat brushes with mattes. Also, despite the B-ES-06’s size, it performs very well on the lower lash line too. I know some people like to apply their concealer and/or eyeshadow primer with Kolinsky hair brushes, but the Sonia G Jumbo Concealer brush is way more comfortable and easier to use for my eye area because of the thickness and hair type.
Out of the four Kolinsky brushes I have, this is the one I recommend most.
Houkodou Brilliant Gold Series G-S5 Flat Eye Shadow Brush
Full Length: 140mm / 5.5 in
Hair Length: 11mm / 0.43 in
Hair Width: 7mm / 0.27 in
Bristle Type: Kolinsky
I couldn’t decide if I wanted the wider Bisyodo brush or this one, so I decided to get both. The bristles aren’t as soft as the Bisyodo brush I previously discussed, but it’s still softer than the Koyudo ones I’ve reviewed here before.
This brush is great for lining the eyes and applying shimmers, including getting into the crevices of my inner corner. Because it doesn’t have the same softness as the B-ES-06, I don’t enjoy using it on my more sensitive lower lash line, but it can be done. Also, the dome tapered tip of the GS-5 gives me a little thicker of a line than the Bisyodo brush. This is a good detail brush for adding definition to the outer corner, crease, and under the brow. I’ve also used it to clean up the edges of my eye look with concealer in either a harsh line or blending it a bit for an even line with a soft edge. The Houkodou and Bisyodo brushes are multi-purpose in that way. While I still recommend the Bisyodo one over this, the price difference might make the Houkodou Kolinsky brush more appealing. Also, the GS-3 brush that Jaybirdwalking featured in the video link I posted is larger than the GS-5 that I bought. I wanted a brush that wasn’t quite so similar to the Bisyodo, which I’m glad I did since the one edge that it has over the Bisyodo brush is that ability to get into the inner corners. And, of course, the price.
Full Length: *135mm / 5.31 in Hair Length: *14mm / 0.55 in Hair Width: *10mm / 0.39 in Bristle Type: Prairie Dog
On FudeJapan’s website, there are two versions of this brush: Kolinsky and Prairie Dog. Even though Kolinsky is sought after and I certainly have room to expand that in my range of hair types, I leapt at the chance to feel a new animal hair type. The only hair I’ve seen in a brush that I’m not too keen to own is cat. I actually emailed CDJapan to verify that it wasn’t a “goat” misprint, but no, it’s not. The set has a cat hair brush.
Anyway, unlike the two previous brushes I discussed, this one can feel scratchy if I try to use it in the crease and flip it vertically to do windshield wiper motions across the eyes. If I’m just patting this brush on my lids in short strokes or lining my eyes by using the brush in a horizontal motion, it feels fine. This brush isn’t as soft as Kolinsky, but it picks up quite a bit more product and is also a little thicker in shape around the belly of the brush. For that reason, I will definitely continue to use this brush for its main purpose of applying shimmers wet or on a tacky base. Though this brush applies more product, I prefer Kolinsky over prairie dog.
TSUBOKAWA MOUHITSU
Koyomo nadeshiko Pearl Pink Blush Brush
Full Length: 116mm / 4.57 in
Hair Length: 39mm / 1.53 in
Hair Width: *30mm / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: Goat Haku-ototsuho Yomo
I enjoyed the eyeshadow Koyomo brush I purchased at the end of 2020, so I knew it was a matter of time before I eventually tried out this hair type again in a face brush. I’m still not a fan of the short handle, but it’s not something that impacts my ability to use this brush effectively. I hold it by the bottom end of the ferrule where some of the writing is, so that may be something that will get worn away if I use it consistently. It’s a dense brush with hair that shockingly feels borderline as soft as Saikoho. The main difference is that the hair strands in this brush are thicker, so it has a little more drag on the face than my other Saikoho brushes (even if I hold the brush further back), but the softness factor prevents that drag from feeling abrasive on my skin. My Koyomo eyeshadow brush feels like Sokoho, so I don’t know if I just got an exceptionally great version of that hair type in my blush brush, but it makes me want to purchase Tsubokawa Mouhitsu’s higher grade lines if only they made longer handle versions. If they do in the future, I would absolutely pick one up.
The way that is most comfortable for me to hold this brush lends perfectly for blush usage, but feels a bit awkward in the hand while I attempt to apply bronzer in my preferred (for bronzer) sweeping motion. I can still do this easily enough though.
The head circumference is fairly small, even after the post-wash bloom, so I believe this brush really is best to use solely for blush. It works beautifully for blush regardless of whether or not I want to pounce it on my cheeks or swirl and buff, so that’s good enough for me.
I decided to post the size comparisons of these two at the last minute. Please excuse the fact that the Koyomo brush isn’t washed.Because these brush posts take me months to complete, it can be difficult to juggle between wanting to use these brushes in my down time with wanting to keep them clean for blog purposes in case I need additional pictures.
The HS-2 Hana Sakura is one of my favorite brushes and it’s quite versatile. The MS-2 isn’t as versatile for me, but has proved to be an amazing dedicated blush brush. This shape is similar to the Chikuhodo T-4 and PS-2, so it performs similarly to them, but with a smaller brush head. I love the spring back when I pounce it on my face, but I can use it in any application method. It’s a medium density brush that’s packed tightest in the center and the flexibility of the hair allows it to curve enough to function like a sweeping brush if used in that way, but also stand firmly enough to be used in a buffing motion if so desired. The handle length is great for me and it looks so much prettier in person when I can see the sparkles in the black lacquer of the handle and that pretty flower pattern too. The head size is on the smaller side, but the splay from the outer ring keeps it from feeling too small when I use it.
As I’ve mentioned before, the way these kind of brush heads are constructed is holy grail for me for blush usage, and blushes alone. I don’t enjoy it nearly as much for any other purpose, though I could still get the job done realistically with bronzer.
Because of the addition of the Grey Squirrel hair, which adds extra softness, this brush is a bit more expensive than the similarly performing Chikuhodo PS-2. However, I personally think this brush is better and worth that extra expense because of the softness and the handle, but admittedly the handles of both brushes are pretty in their own ways.
There is only one negative to this brush and it’s that the pretty matte gold ferrule is very malleable and therefore easy to bend. Even though it doesn’t look like it’s any thinner than the ferrules of my other brushes, it feels like I could actually squeeze it out of shape with my fingers if I tried hard enough, unlike the others. There’s also a bit larger of a gap than I’ve seen before between the hair and the top of the ferrule when I push the hair to the side. I’ll include a comparison photo below between the MS-2 and PS-2 demonstrating this. It’s just something I’ve noticed, and so far it hasn’t made the brush shed, feel loosely packed, or problematic in any way.
I accidentally dropped this brush, and I believe that’s what caused the ferrule to bend and create a flat edge at two points, which made the hair shape go from being circular to a quarter section being flat. I have a tool from my crafting days that I used to get it back in shape. I would not have attempted to fix a more expensive brush, and a few times I did make it a little worse before making it better, so I only recommend those with experience to attempt the same as I did to fix things. I have dropped other brushes in the past, but this is the only one I’ve noticed that actually got damaged from that happening. Perhaps the others did too and I just didn’t notice it, but I figured it was something I should mention. Those who aren’t as clumsy as I am sometimes will likely not have to worry about it. I certainly still love this brush and recommend it.
You’ll notice that all of the Eihodo brushes below are listed as “outlet” brushes. CDJapan sometimes acquires brushes with minor flaws from companies and sell them at a discount. They say officially that, “The shape and color of the tip might differ from the image provided. There will be no problem when using, but there might be damage to the brush shaft.” Sometimes outlet brushes have the brand logo still on them, but these from Eihodo do not. I personally have not been able to see where the flaws would be with the brushes I’ve bought, which is why I love these type of events because I can get brushes that I find to be great quality or higher but at significant savings. I don’t know if I’m just incredibly lucky that I’m usually happy with the outlet brushes I get, but if so, I know of other fude lovers who seem to share the same lucky streak. Lately, I’ve been seeing a lot of Eihodo outlet brushes available, but every so often they have Koyudo outlet events too. Occasionally, I see a random single outlet brush added to the new brushes section of the website, so I always keep my eye out for other great finds.
The brushes in the “Special Price Events” tend to sell out fast depending on the hair type and whether or not the brush is in a very popular style or an aesthetically pleasing handle. For instance, Canadian Squirrel tends to go the quickest. It could be within 5-30 minutes depending on how many CDJapan stocked and the price of them. From what I’ve seen, the pricier outlet brushes only have 5-15 available with five being the average. Gray Squirrel is usually gone in under an hour. Squirrel mixed with goat could sell out within minutes or weeks. There are a lot of variables.
Some tips that I have for those who are trying to get these brushes first before they sell out are as follows:
Ensure that you understand the launch time for your time zone. If you’re subscribed to emails, CDJapan will inform you of the day and time in advance, but from what I’ve seen it is usually at 11:59 AM (UTC+9). As an example, if the day and time is marked for June 16th at 11:59 AM (UTC+9), this would be for me in Florida 10:59 PM EST on June 15th. Japan is thirteen hours ahead of me. Don’t wait for an email reminder announcing the launch because I always get those the next day.
Keep a tab open for the new beauty releases page along with the special price page. Even though we have a specific launch time, the products usually don’t become visible immediately. It may take a few minutes or longer. I have observed that the new releases page typically gets updated before the special price page. Although the special price page is handy for someone like me that only wants specific hair types, if you’re more interested in the brush shapes and could therefore easily scroll through the 20+ newly released brushes to spot which ones look promising, then you get at least five minutes of a head start to view specific brush pages before those waiting only on the special price page get to see what’s available.
Pay attention to the quantity of brushes listed as available. Knowing how many are stocked gives a clue as to how much time you have to complete your order. If there are 5 or less available at the start, one could expect it to sell out on the first day and potentially even in the first ten minutes depending on those brush factors I mentioned earlier.
Know your favorite shapes, lengths, hair types, and handle styles in advance. This is one tip that took me far too long to plan out. For instance, one time I didn’t factor in how tiny a brush would be and how I would not be able to accomplish what I wanted from a brush of that size, even though it was the hair type I wanted. Another time I got my favorite size of brush in the hair type I wanted, but I didn’t think about how much more I prefer round brushes over round flat ones. I picked the right specs to get a nice brush, but it wasn’t something I would use a lot because of my preferences. Knowing what I want ahead of time allows me to make quick decisions when a brush that isn’t completely within my preferences ends up being available and I have to make a judgment call on whether to get it anyway or skip it. For me, I only want eye brushes above 125mm in full length with sizes starting at 130mm and up being the most ideal. I also only want squirrel, goat, or goat mix face brushes. Brushes made of pony/horse, weasel/sable, and synthetic hair are instant skips. For face brushes, I prefer them to be longer than 135mm at full length. 150mm is perfect. I prefer to not have a ferrule that is longer than the handle, but it’s not a deal breaker if it’s the right full total length. As mentioned before, I like round shapes over angled and oval shapes, medium density brushes and up, and dyed bristles over undyed depending on the brand. Also, as much as I like goat, I don’t tend to go for a Sokoho hair type unless it’s mixed with squirrel. Honing in on my preferences helps me turn away the ones that are tempting me with their discounted prices so I don’t overspend.
These are the things I wish I thought about, but have learned to be content with by the time I started working on my Fude Update #5 post, which will not be published for quite some time.
EIHODO
Eihodo is based in Osaka and their brushes are produced by Chikuhodo. Eihodo is technically an OEM as well when it comes to their oil-blotting papers, which the customers’ name can be printed on. I couldn’t find much more information other than that.
Eihodo NO277 Blush Brush [OUTLET]
Full Length: 128mm / 5.04 in
Hair Length: 35mm / 1.38 in
Hair Width: *30mm / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Goat Sokoho
This oval shaped brush is a squirrel goat mix that has the highest percentage of goat to squirrel ratio in this post. It’s soft enough, but the way the hair is packed means I can feel a distinct difference between this one and the other mixed brushes reviewed here today. I can feel a bit more friction on the skin when I use it. It feels dense, but it still splays quite a bit when pressed on the skin, making it not great to use with highlighter. I typically prefer round brushes over round-flat, but this brush is so packed with hair that despite the pinched ferrule maintaining the round-flat shape, this brush after being washed and left to air dry without aloe vera gel or a brush guard fluffs a little closer to a circular shape. So, it feels natural when using it to sweep on bronzer, but I intuitively switch to buffing when I use it on my cheek for blush. Because of this feature, I ended up liking this brush more than I expected. It picks up a decent amount of product with each tap in the pan. It’s not an essential brush in my collection, but a nice one to have. I would have liked it even more if the handle was longer, but this is one of the outlet brushes I bought before I finalized my stance on getting face brushes at a minimum of 135mm in full length. The original price of 4200 YEN would have been okay with me, but getting it for 2520 YEN makes me feel all the better about getting it.
Additional photos are at the end of the Eihodo section.
Eihodo NO278 Blush Brush [OUTLET]
Full Length: 160mm / 6.3 in
Hair Length: 37mm / 1.45 in
Hair Width: *30mm / 1.18 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Goat Sokoho
This brush head is pretty much the same length and width as the MS-2, but the shape is similar to the PS-2 in the way that the tips form enough of a curve to barely avoid being considered a flat top. If these three brushes represented a family, they would be cousins. The MS-2 and PS-2 perform similarly because of the tightness of the bundling in the center, which is also the case with the 278, but because it has even more of the gray squirrel in it than the MS-2, the hair is so fine that it curves even more under pressure and doesn’t bounce on the skin as well as the others. The hair bends enough that I can actually use this for sweeping with bronzer without it feeling awkward; and because of that near-flat top and how dense it is, it still makes for a great buffing brush. So, for use with both blush and bronzer, I like to apply those products in a circular buffing motion. It surprisingly picks up a lot of product, so I have to just do a dab or two at a time in the makeup product and knock off the excess before using it on my face.
Considering the hair type and performance for price, this is one of my top two favorite outlet brushes from this bunch. Because the MS-2 is slightly fuller and denser, I still prefer that one to this. However, this exceeded my expectations and I’m glad I bought it. It would normally cost 5800 YEN, which is pretty fair, but I got it for 3190 YEN, which is a phenomenal price. In case it ever gets stocked again, the link can be found HERE.
Eihodo NO280 Powder Brush [OUTLET]
Full Length: 175mm / 6.9 in
Hair Length: 50mm / 1.97 in
Hair Width: *36mm / 1.42 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
This brush is the big winner! Considering how much hair is here, the type of hair, and the quality of this type, I can see why it would be 12,000 YEN. Getting it for 6600 YEN is practically a steal! This was the best outlet deal I’ve had so far, and still worth the added shipping cost since I hadn’t met the free shipping minimum. I initially reserved this brush for those rare occasions I set my face with powder, which has increased a little during the summer months. However, because it’s dense enough for buffing and doesn’t splay too widely, I’ve been able to use this brush for subtle bronzer and blush looks too!
Comparing other round brushes I own that are wider at the tips than they are at the base, the closest I have in size to the Eihodo 280 is my Koyudo Saikoho Powder Brush (another outlet brush) and Hakuhodo B104. The B104 is in the long handle version, which makes this brush a comparable length to the Eihodo, although the brush head is bigger. The Koyudo brush is a lot closer, but still bigger. I thought it might be a good comparison though because I suspect the Koyudo brush is similar to the rephr 30, (though I don’t have it to confirm it).
This 282 brush is like the longer handle full squirrel version of the 277. It’s of course softer than the 277, but this isn’t the softest gray squirrel hair I’ve ever felt. It’s closer to the feeling of the best Saikoho goat brushes I have, but with a more delicate hair structure. I appreciate though that they really packed this brush with a lot of hair, so it’s dense, but it still has a large splay when pressure is applied. It’s every bit the sweeping style brush that I expected. It doesn’t pick up a lot of product unless the makeup is loose or loosely pressed. This brush ranks slightly above the 277, and I like having it, but it still wasn’t a necessity. According to Fluffy Fude, this brush is very similar in shape to the Chikuhodo Z-4, which is a brush I’ve considered getting for years, so I feel like I definitely don’t need a Z-4 anymore. The 282 was supposed to retail for 7000 YEN, but I got it for 4200 YEN. For the size of the brush, I still got a great deal, but considering the hair type and the amount of it in this fairly small brush, I really came out on top with this one!
Additional photos with comparisons are at the end of the Eihodo Outlet section.
Eihodo NO.297 Eyeshadow Brush S [OUTLET]
Full Length: 110mm / 4.3 in
Hair Length: 10mm / 0.4 in
Hair Width: *6mm / 0.24 in
Bristle Type: Canadian Squirrel
110mm is small, but I don’t think I truly processed how little a brush of that size would be. I finally learned my lesson about guessing at sizes rather than producing a ruler and judging dimensions off that instead. And here I thought keeping track of the Koyudo 05 Lip & Eyeliner Brush S was difficult, but this is even tinier! At least the handle is bright red, which helps me pinpoint it among the rest of my brushes if it’s in a box or cup.
This is the only outlet brush I regret getting because it’s just not functional for me. It’s exactly as soft as one would expect for a Canadian Squirrel brush, but because it comes to such a sharp point, it’s not as comfortable to use on my sensitive lower lash line. It’s not pokey during the entire use, but it is enough to be irritating. Also, because of this hair type, even if I swirl the product in eyeshadow enough to fully coat the hair, because it’s so delicate, it can only apply it to my skin in a gentle sheer amount. It basically touches the area to apply it but I can’t get enough force to actually press it in and build color. My only option if I want a built up look is to wet the brush, which this is not the kind of hair I want to apply damp. I don’t think it would damage it, but it’s just not something I usually do with squirrel. I might start to anyway, just so I can have another use for this brush. And when I use this and it makes my eyes water, the brush gets wet anyway. Something small like this should be good for lining the eyes, but again, because it applies such a light amount of product, that doesn’t make for a good liner unless someone wants a watercolor type of look on the eyes. I always want maximum pigmentation, so that’s not for me.
The one use I have for this brush is blending two lid shades together or adding sparkle to the center of the lid. Sometimes trying to blend two pigmented shimmers with my fingers leads to back and forth overpowering of one shade over the other rather than getting one to fade into the other. And applying a pigmented sparkle shade can also sometimes look too opaque and not give me the effect I want to just highlight/accent the center of the lid. So, a brush like this does help, even though it’s so tiny that it’s still tedious to use for that.
This brush is listed as 3000 YEN but was sold for 2100 YEN. Lowering the price any further would not have made buying this brush any better in my eyes. I should have skipped it entirely, but at least it wasn’t an expensive lesson. A month after purchasing this brush, they released NO.346, which is basically the same brush in a longer handle. That one would have been better for me, but the issues with the shape would have persisted anyway.
Eihodo NO.299 Powder Brush [OUTLET]
Full Length: 138mm / 5.4 in
Hair Length: 46mm / 1.8 in
Hair Width: *40mm / 1.57 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel
This brush isn’t bundled tightly, so it looks fuller than it is. When I lightly push both ends of the hair together to see how much is actually there, it’s only 5mm thick. It’s very floppy and is difficult to pick up my pressed powder products, except the ones that are very loosely pressed. That lack of denseness also means I can only sweep the product on since the hair isn’t resilient enough for proper buffing.
Most of my blushes aren’t loose/powdery enough to fully coat the brush in one go. So, it takes a ridiculous amount of layers to build it up enough for my liking on my cheeks. I get better results using this brush with bronzer because my bronzers tend to be softer, but it’s still time consuming to use. Sure, I can get a nice subtle airbrushed look, but my bronzers are mostly all high quality and I can still get airbrushed results much quicker with most other of my brushes.
So, this is the kind of brush I only recommend to someone who uses loose powder products or wants a brush to sweep away setting powder that has been left on the face to bake. I never use the baking technique and I only use loose powder 2-3 times a year, unless I’m specifically testing a product. So, I truly don’t have much use for this brush. It has a short handle, which I generally don’t like, but it’s also a full grey squirrel brush with ferrule that’s a beautiful and uncommon shade of pink. That’s why I ended up purchasing it anyway. I don’t have the heart to part with it so soon, but this brush might not remain in my collection for long. For the amount of hair in this brush, the 12,000 YEN price is absolutely not worth it in my opinion. Even the 7800 YEN discounted price is difficult for me to justify.
Eihodo NO.312 Blush Brush [OUTLET]
Full Length: 190mm / 7.5 in
Hair Length: 40mm / 1.57 in
Hair Width: *32mm / 1.26 in
Bristle Type: Gray Squirrel and Sokoho Goat
This handle is super long! It’s among the longest in my collection, and because of that paddle head shape, it gives me paintbrush vibes. I rarely use brushes of this type, but it looked nice in photos, the hair type is what I like, and the handle length had me curious as to whether I would like it more than other paddle brushes I’ve used in the past since I would be able to hold it like I would an actual paint brush.
Considering this is an outlet brush that’s supposed to have flaws, I am so impressed with how perfectly shaped it is with not a hair out of place. It’s the widest paddle brush I have and it’s not as flat as I expected either. From the side view, at about 22mm up is it’s widest point that gradually tapers to a gentle point at the tips. The tip is thin enough that I can pick up product there to apply highlighter precisely, but I like to pick up product on the slightly angled side in the top third section of the brush and apply highlight in downward strokes across the top of the cheekbones. I use a traditional sweeping technique for use with bronzer on the forehead, but apply bronzer to the tips for use on the sides of my face to get a more sculpted look. As for use with blush, I don’t have a set preference between sweeping or using quick strokes across the cheeks. I guess it depends on how pigmented the blush is.
Despite the soft bristles, the tight bundling doesn’t allow for as much flexibility, so it feels a bit firm. The pointed tip also makes it feel a bit pokey at times, not from sharpness but purely due to the shape. So, despite the many benefits and how impressed I am with the beauty and construction, it’s not the best fit for my makeup style. Had I paid the full 6500 YEN price, I would not have been happy with this purchase. However, for 4550 YEN, that’s a fairer price. I understand that the squirrel element is what makes this such a good deal, but the shape of it and my preferences make this a little less valuable to me.
I wanted to compare the Muragishi Sangyo HS-2 with the Eihodo 277 and 282 because they are such similar shapes and considering the HS-2 is one of my holy grail brushes. The 277 doesn’t surpass the HS-2 because it’s not as soft. The 282 doesn’t surpass it because it splays more and therefore doesn’t give as much precision as the HS-2. I also like that the HS-2 is bundled tighter for blending purposes.
Sonia G
Sonia G Master Face Brush
Full Length: 178mm / 7 in
Hair Length: 38mm / 1.5 in
Hair Width: *35mm / 1.38 in
Bristle Type: Dyed & Undyed Saikoho Goat Hair
Handle: Maple Wood
Because Sonia G’s eye brushes have become my new holy grail over the last two years, I’ve been interested in exploring more of her face brushes, although they are a bit pricey even for Saikoho quality. I had $20 in credit from the previous Beautylish Gift Card Event, so I decided to use that on this brush.
What was the most enticing was the description of the “ball shape” which I interpreted to mean bouncy like my favorite blush brushes that I describe as pouncing my face with a rabbit tail. Unfortunately, I’m not a fan of the way the bristles are staggered to create that ball shape and it wasn’t until the third wash that it formed a shape I actually liked and was a little puffier. I like dense brushes, but in my opinion, it’s too dense for this shape. The bristles are of course soft, but this brush is for super buffing. I have to build up even my pigmented products because it buffs out the color so much. I appreciate the fact that I can use any blending technique with the brush and the bristles will move in the direction I want. If I want to apply bronzer to warm the perimeter rather than achieving a precise sculpt, this brush is great for that. It’s a bit too much brush for blush for my liking, and that’s unfortunately what I was excited to use with it the most. It also works well to blend and buff face powder all over the face, but the only time I usually powder my face anymore is to set a cream product that doesn’t set on its own or to tone down my extra pigmented products. So, I ended up not using this brush nearly as much as I thought I would. It’s a shame because I like the construction of the handle and the look of the hair. I want this to be a favorite, but it isn’t. According to Sonia G, this is foremost a powder foundation brush. Perhaps if I used powder foundation I would like this more. To be fair though, the Beautylish website description for the use of this brush makes it very clear that it’s a dense buffing and blending brush. I just underestimated how strong “lot’s of strength” actually meant.
PREVIOUSLY REVIEWED BRUSHES MOVED HERE
Sonia G Builder Pro Eye Shadow Brush
Full Length: 152mm / 5.98 in
Hair Length: 12mm / 0.47 in
Hair Width: *9mm / 0.35 in
Bristle Type: Dyed Saikoho Goat Hair
The Builder Pro and Builder Three are both brushes that lay product down well but can also be used for blending. I’ve discovered that the Builder Three leans better on the blending aspect because of the flatter top, so I prefer that one for crease work. The Builder Pro leans better on the lay down and building aspect because it’s perfect for applying shadows to the section of my eye between the eyelid and inner corner. I always struggled with that spot, but this brush gets in there easily. It’s also more precise for application to the outer V. I’ve actually been able to do entire eye looks using this brush alone. I’m very happy I decided to finally buy this! The tapered tip that makes the Builder Pro so great for applying shadows also prevents it from blending large areas as quickly as the Builder Three, so I will probably use that one more often when I’m in a rush. However, for when I have more time and want to create a detailed and more skillfully done eyeshadow look, I will definitely grab the Builder Pro instead. They perform differently enough that I feel justified having them both in my collection.
Beautylish Presents
Beautylish Presents is the brand name of the Beautylish retailer’s line of brushes that one or more Fude companies produce for them. Their most popular brush series is the Lunar New Year Series, but they also have the Yano Series, 420 Brush Collection, and the Hachiko Kabuki brush. They also have two Faux Fur Brush Roll options.
Beautylish Presents the Year of the Tiger Lunar New Year Powder Brush
Full Length: *170mm / 6.69 in
Hair Length: 47.6mm / 1.87 in
Hair Width: *40mm / 1.57 in
Bristle Type: Blue Squirrel
I succumbed to the temptation and finally bought one of Beautylish’s collaborative Lunar New Year brushes. They did not announce which brush-maker created this year’s brush, but in the past is was Chikuhodo. Even if another Fude company created this brush, I’m still happy that it has the Chikuhodo aesthetic with the large round shiny handle similar to the Z-series. As long as the brush is high quality, which it is, it doesn’t matter to me which Japanese company created it. This brush is still hand bundled with an exquisitely detailed lacquered handle using the maki-e process.
At launch, Beautylish also restocked the previous Lunar New Year brushes as well: Pig, Rat, and Ox. As cute as those designs are, those three have nearly identical brush heads which is already practically the same as the Tiger brush. It’s also comparable to the Chikuhodo MK-KO, as they’re both “round-flat” brushes, but the tip shape is different.
This brush is unbelievably silky soft and of course perfect for those who want a very sheer application of powder. I can use this for highlighter (when applied just on the very tips), blush (when I use sweeping motions across the cheek), and bronzer, but in my eyes this is a dedicated all over face powder brush. Although it picks up a small amount of product, when that product is very pigmented it takes more effort than I like to buff it out because it’s not dense enough for that. If I use a squirrel hair brush for blush, I prefer one that’s thicker and more round like the Z-1. Anything looser packed than that, I consider to be more ideal for setting/finishing powders. Honestly, this is more of a collector item for me and not one I intend to use a lot. When I do use it, it’s heaven though. It’s so soft and light that I barely feel any pressure on my skin. This is a beautiful powder brush, but if you already own one with grey/blue/ash squirrel hair, you’re not missing out by not having it. For those who don’t and would like a light/medium density powder brush, this might be a good place to start since comparable brushes to this would be a little more expensive. I still recommend this for collectors, but for someone looking for a more functional or versatile brush, I would direct them to Chikuhodo’s Z series and FO series.
Thank you for joining me today! I hope this has been helpful! Fude Part 5 already has as many brushes as this post, so it may be several months before that one is published.
-Lili ❤
*Also, I apologize if there are any serious spelling or grammatical errors. I was not able to proofread this post as many times as I normally would due to unstable/barely usable internet over the weekend.