Author Archives: ghekate

Dior Backstage Rosy Glow Stick Blush Review

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I was very eager to get this post out, so I’ve only used the Dior Backstage Rosy Glow Stick in 077 Candy six times so far. This hasn’t gone through my usual amount of testing rounds, but I feel that I have a good handle on how this blush performs.

I must admit the chances are high that I will eventually buy something else from the collection of new powder blushes, cream blush sticks, and lip butters. Whether that happens or not, I still intend to update this post if there is anything noteworthy I’ve forgotten to mention or that I’ve discovered after using this product for a longer period of time.*

*JUNE 14, 2025 UPDATE: I bought the powder blush version of this shade as well. The review is at the end of this post.

The swatches are slightly washed out, but this was photographed in natural light from the window.

The Reformulation History

Before we get into this, I just wanted to point out that the original Backstage Rosy Glow Blushes were Pink and Coral. In 2023, the brand dropped “Backstage” from the name and relaunched Pink and Coral, along with the new shades Rosewood, Cherry, Berry and Mahogany. In 2024, they expanded the Rosy Glow range by adding Bronzed Glow, Pink Lilac, and Poppy Coral. Bronzed Glow was the first blush to have visible shimmer particles and it was much easier to pick up product onto a brush.
The “Backstage” name was added back to the Rosy Glow Blush line in 2025, after a second reformulation and new packaging. I don’t know if this means Dior was going to drop the Backstage line, then decided against it. From what I hear, this line is much more popular with the younger generation on TikTok, so that could account for the reconsideration.

The new line of cream blush sticks and second round of reformulated powder blushes comprise of the shades Pink, Pink Lilac, Rosewood, Cherry, Berry, Toffee, and Candy. So, there is currently no Coral, Poppy Coral, Mahogany, or Bronzed Glow.

As I mentioned, Bronze Glow already had visible shimmer and was easier to work with than the others, so I would not have repurchased it just to get the cute square packaging even if it was an option. However, it’s tempting to pick up the new Rosewood. I can’t justify getting it though because my old one is only hard-pressed and still doesn’t have hard-pan on it. I have plenty of brushes that can pick up product decently enough.

If I were to buy one of the powder blushes, it would be Candy, Cherry, or Berry. The older version of Berry looked way deeper than is my preference, but the new Berry’s tone looks prettier to me.

The Performance

Candy has turned out to be a very interesting shade for me to wear! The base color is bubblegum pink, but the golden shimmer makes the blush shade appear warmer. In addition, the ph-adjusting pigment turns the blush a little darker on my cheeks, which prevents it from looking ashy on my skintone while also helping it to actually show up. Without it, I don’t think I would have been able to pull off a color as light as this and in a formula that blends out to be as sheer.
Of the available colors, this is the closest thing to a coral shade that they have.

This isn’t a stiff blush stick. The product glides easily so that I can draw a line of product directly onto my skin without disturbing my makeup underneath. It’s also easy to blend in, leaving no harsh edges and it doesn’t require warming the product up on the back of the hand or via the fingertips to make it easier to spread. So far, my favorite way to apply this has been using angled synthetic brushes and the Singe Beauty F03.

I watched a lot of videos to try and figure out which shades I wanted, and in the process I heard every reviewer talk about this cream being a bit sticky or dewy. This was not the case for me within the first four days. So, I assumed either mine is drier than everyone else’s or my dry skin type plays a part in how this blush sets down on my face. After putting on the blush and touching my cheeks, the most I saw and felt on my fingers was the same amount of moisture as I would get from a full face of skincare and nothing else.

It wasn’t until a different testing session when I applied and blended out this blush with my fingers that I was left with dewy cheeks. My theory now is that because I usually draw or place dots onto my cheeks and then use my brush to blend it out, the wetter elements of the blush get picked up and hold onto the fibers of my brush, so that it’s mostly just the color that is left behind. The little dew that remains gets pushed deeper into my dry skin, so I’m left with hydrated and moisturized feeling cheeks that still don’t require powder to set it! This might not be the same scenario someone with oily skin will experience. Dior does specifically state this contains cherry oil and is intended to be dewy.

I wonder if the minimal amount I use also plays a part. Because this is not a bold color, I can see the temptation to build up a lot of swipes on the cheeks right away. However, I’ve learned from using Rosewood to just give those Red Lakes time to do their thing and darken. So, I tend to not add that much product and I’m still given enough color for the blush to be seen in person (though not as prominently in photos).

My favorite way to use this, other than by itself, is to apply it on top of a matte blush for added opacity and that pretty golden glow. I think it looks better when the cream stick is on top of powder, instead of underneath it.

The worst wear time I’ve had so far was when I used my most moisturizing milky toner as part of my skincare routine, wore my dewiest and most transfer-prone skin tint that provided light-medium coverage, and I did not set my face with powder. The blush faded to the point of having noticeably less color within two hours and I could see my skin underneath. However, there was enough blush to look like I had used a cheek stain. By the end of the night, it was still present and there was still a little glow.

The best wear time I’ve had, without relying on powder, also involved a hydrating milky toner and my glowiest foundation with high coverage. In this scenario, I don’t see fading until five hours in, but I have plenty of color remaining. My longest wear test under these conditions was 12 hours and the blush was still there.

I know firsthand that setting the blush with translucent face powder extends the wear, and it definitely won’t be a problem if paired with another powder blush. It’s also possible that the darker blush stick shades with more of the ph-adjusting pigment could be longer lasting.

An additional note is that this product contains fragrance. It smells like a combination of vanilla, candy, and mint. It’s like a milder version of the Dior Addict lippies. I don’t really enjoy there being menthol and peppermint oil, as it makes me instinctively want to keep it away from my eyes. It doesn’t burn, but I associate the smell with Vicks Vaporub.

The Packaging

I’d just like to throw out there that the packaging is genius! I love that I can stick the handle down into the blush cap for it to be held securely while I twist it and then apply the product! I can even set it down on the table without fear of it tipping over.

For those who have purchased multiple glow sticks, it’s nice that every blush has a corresponding cap color to make it easier to determine what shade it is without having to read the label on the bottom. The silver handle with the Oblique print is a very classy design touch as well.

Comparisons

This photograph was taken under artificial light, but it better represents how the colors will look on my face.

Although they look very different in the swatches, YSL’s Restless Rose looks quite similar to Dior’s Candy when applied to my cheeks. The difference is that Restless Rose’s glow comes from the reflect of the shimmer, and Candy has a wetter looking sheen.

I can’t think of a better analogy other than to say Dior’s Rosewood (in the older formula) and Candy look close enough to be sisters. Rosewood doesn’t have visible shimmer particles, but it has a soft sheen and they are both pinks. The shade differences are easier to see when they’re built up, but if I’m aiming to get a sheer amount of color from both of them, it would be difficult for someone to be able to tell they weren’t the same (other than the shine levels). This is why I’m trying my best to resist buying more.

Ordering Process

Before we close out this post, I just wanted to talk about the very different experiences I’ve had between ordering from the US and Germany.
I’ve seen plenty of influencers saying, “Always buy directly from Dior for the luxury experience and perks.” However, only select regions have the Dior Beauty Loyalty Program.
Within Europe, it’s just France, the United Kingdom, and Spain even though my orders to Germany are shipped from France anyway. I can choose the Couture gift packaging, get two free samples, and on the rare occasion one can choose an additional deluxe size mini sample if the purchase is over 100 Euros, but that’s it.*

*Technically, this time the box was a little different, as it had the Dior Dioriviera/Toile de Jouy print on the inside (I think leftovers from Mother’s Day). Usually the carboard box is plain, but I turned this one inside out so I could repurpose it!

When I ordered from the US, I was part of the reward program. Besides the various gifts at different tiers, there are always different free gift with purchase codes floating around that include bigger things than just perfume samples. I’ve seen others get charms/ornaments, pouches/makeup bags, etc.


According to Dior Deutschland, the blush sticks and lip butters are exclusive to their website. This is why I bought mine at full price. Since there’s not much incentive for me to buy anything else directly from Dior, my plan is to wait for the powders to come to retailers in Germany so that I can accrue points from those reward programs and most likely get 20% off as well. As of this very morning, all three product types are available at Douglas. So, the “exclusive” element was only for a short time.

Dior Backstage Rosy Glow Blush in 077 Candy

It didn’t take long for me to do exactly as I said. I bought this at 20% off from Douglas and I’m updating this post with my review of the powder blush!

The aspects that Dior improved with this new powder blush formula over both previous versions is that this is more pigmented and less hard-pressed, though it’s still dry to the touch. I also think the square packaging is cuter and I can use larger cheek brushes with it. The downside for me is with this particular shade. It unfortunately does the same thing as Nars Orgasm where I can see the pink color at one angle, but the gold reflect is nearly all I can see once light hits it. Then it appears as if I tried to use a highlighter as blush! This kind of shimmer is not that refined either, which makes it unsuitable for my preference as even a blushlighter or blush topper.

The saving grace for me is that I can apply the Candy blush stick on top to help the shimmer become one with the skin, plus increase the amount of pink color that can be seen.

I’m happy using the Candy shade of Glow Stick on its own, but going forward, I will never wear the powder version of Candy by itself. Based on my continued enjoyment of the previous powder blush reformulation, and acknowledgement that the new one has improvements, I still recommend the powder blush. I just can’t recommend Candy or Toffee to anyone close to my skin tone because of that highlighter effect. Bronzed Glow still gives me hope that Dior can nail a shimmery blush in this new formula in the future if the base color is darker.

And that’s everything for today! Thank you for reading.

-Lili ❤

SPF in Makeup ft. Beekman 1802 and Toty

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Mineral sunscreens can leave a strange-colored cast on the face and body that is especially visible on people with dark skin. The higher the SPF protection, the more obvious it looks.
This is why I rely on chemical sunscreens for sun protection. However, companies have developed new innovations to combat this issue. They are all aware of the dreaded “casket-ready” grey look that can happen when someone with brown skin puts on a foundation product that has a high level of mineral SPF. The ones I tried in the past were terrible, but I decided to give some new ones a chance.

Beekman 1802 Milk Tint SPF 43 Tinted Primer Serum in Deep

The promo photos clued me in that I would not find my perfect shade in this range. However, I’ve long been intrigued by Beekman 1802 and knew that if I had the opportunity to stack Ulta rewards with a 20% off coupon, then I would take it.
That happened, and that’s why I was able to finally try it! For once, this was something I wanted that had zero hype. If anything, the most I heard people saying about it was that they were putting it in their anti-hauls, including me! That’s right! Two years ago I actually said I wouldn’t buy it.

This tint has a runny consistency and it ranges between sheer to medium coverage depending on how many drops are used. It’s very wet on the skin for a while, but given enough time it actually can set on my face without powder. This may be because I have dry skin. I initially tested this out on bare skin. Once I started putting skincare underneath, it took much longer to set. When I use this as a primer, even if I pair it with a foundation that is self-setting, it will no longer set on its own completely and it won’t be transfer-proof. Adding powder then helps to lock it onto my face. My skin feels nicely hydrated with this on, including after being powdered so long as that powder I use isn’t too mattifying or too drying.

My biggest problem area though is my nose. For some reason, I have a hard time getting it to stick there, but longevity isn’t an issue anywhere else. Also, my concealer notoriously doesn’t play well with a lot of other makeup. If I apply the KVD Good Apple Concealer first and then this Beekman product second, it won’t blend into the concealer and I get a harsh line that’s also patchy. So, I have to reapply additional concealer where the two edges meet.

I think this tint looks fantastic and smooth alone, and it can make my foundations that I add on top look better because it’s adding extra hydration. However, because it can also increase the amount of makeup transfer and become too emollient if there are too many products underneath and on top, I prefer not to risk using it as a primer except on my driest of days. That emollient issue can shorten the wear time, which a primer at its core is supposed to extend above all other functions.

The amount of product needed for full 43 SPF protection isn’t realistic to put on one’s face. It would look too foundation-heavy and feel uncomfortable as well. I learned from my mistake when I applied the usual amount needed to get medium coverage and then tried to add foundation on top, then had to redo my look because of how overdone my face looked and felt. Essentially, I find it best to apply a slightly less than normal amount of facial sunscreen so that the amount needed for adequate tint coverage can finish providing the remaining necessary sun protection.

The undertone of the Deep shade is red, but I’ve been a little red this summer, so it doesn’t look that off. However, the photo below shows how the color can look very different (orange) when I forget to shake it. Though the combination turned into my usual color match that time, I don’t want to risk throwing off the proportions of ingredients.
This product comes in an extremely heavy ceramic-looking glass bottle and there is an agitator ball inside. When I decided to take this back overseas with me, I transferred it into a clean airless pump bottle and forgot that I would still need to shake it to ensure the pigments were evenly dispersed with every use.

While we’re discussing the bottle, I think I should mention that even the brand site lists a warning that the bottle can leak, especially during travel. So, luggage weigh limit aside, this was another reason I thought it best to change bottles. It’s quite a shame though because it felt so nice and high-end.

As a skincare and makeup hybrid, I think Beekman 1802 succeeded in making a good product. I will enjoy this while I have it, but I most likely won’t repurchase it. My reasons for that are that I prefer higher coverage makeup, I don’t see myself switching to a new concealer anytime soon, and it’s not going to be a good undertone match when my skin starts to return to its normal shade after summer.

Toty Ilumina CC Cream SPF 50+ Perfecting Fluid in 5W1

The swatch is the CC cream, whereas the liquid is from the sample of the Solaria Mineral SPF 50+ Sunscreen Serum that looks awful on me, so I chose not to wear it more than once, and I could also not review it.

This is essentially a foundation that the brand describes as giving a “medium, buildable flawless coverage with natural luminous finish.” When I use a dense brush, I can get high to full coverage. Achieving low coverage is doable, but more difficult because the formula isn’t the easiest to spread thinly. It’s a thick liquid that kept breaking the tips off my sokoho goat brush, so I recommend using synthetic bristles only. I thought using my fingers could help, but the spread is actually harder to control that way and missing spots are easier to see because of the coverage level. I like what this provides, so this isn’t a problem for me, but someone wanting sheer to light coverage out of this “CC cream” might want to reconsidering buying this.

I can squirt this onto my face and it will not start running down my cheeks. It stays put.

Shade 5W1 doesn’t look too unnatural for me, though it’s better if I apply as thin of a layer as possible. It appears matte on my face, though it can look more natural if I use hydrating spray on top and/or illuminating primer underneath. This admittedly looked less matte the one time I tried it in Florida when I first bought it, so the change of climate is a factor in this difference.

I give this brand a lot of credit for having some deeper options with SPF 50+ mineral sunscreen without it going grey. It’s honestly not pushing the envelope though in terms of shade range considering there’s currently only one option darker than mine (5W2). I can admit there were zero mineral skin tints that worked for me a decade ago, and now there are some, but does that technology really stop at one shade darker than mine? Merit recently launched their mineral tinted sunscreens in SPF 45, and their range goes a lot deeper than Toty’s. However, I’ve heard Merit’s gives practically no coverage, so I guess the two lines can’t really be compared.

I noticed MAC Fix+ can break this down a bit, as I had to pat the product back in with my brush, but all was fine after that. The finish looks very smooth and nice, not just because of covering imperfections. I think part of the reason why there is difficulty spreading it is because as it dries it turns into a velvety/powdery finish and texture. This is a very low transferring foundation that sets on me without requiring powder.

Some products Toty sells are fragrance free, but this foundation is not one of them. It was a nice floral-soapy kind of scent when I first had it, but by now it’s starting the change a little a year and a half later. It doesn’t smell off, but it is noticeably a little different. This has a 12 month POA date, but I want to keep using it on and off for a while longer to feel like it wasn’t a waste of money.
I didn’t realize before I left that I wouldn’t be able to order it again in Germany, knowing this product was made in Spain and they’re partnered with Cantabria Labs. Shipping within the EU is usually easy. However, the Toty brand itself is US based and they don’t do international shipping at this time. So, I wouldn’t be able to repurchase it even if I wanted to. I’m happy something like this exists, but I will just stick to using my daily sunscreen and adding foundation on top afterwards.

May is Skin Cancer Awareness Month, so this is my PSA to remind everyone to wear at least some form of sun protection! That’s all I’ve got for today! I hope this has been helpful.

-Lili ❤

Window Shopping the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Edit Customizable Quads

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Hourglass Ambient Powder Collection (some already rearranged). The palette missing in the photo is Lotus.

I’ve been wishing desperately for Hourglass to make their Ambient Edit palettes fully customizable. And now they finally are…if you live in the United States!

In this post, I’d like to share what my curated palette options would look like based on what is currently available, in addition to sharing some swatches and face demos. At the end of this post, I will also explain why anti-hauling this launch might be the best thing for me!

For those who don’t know, I’ve done in-depth Hourglass posts every holiday for several years. The list with links to them all can be found HERE.
I have also depotted and rearranged some of my Hourglass palettes, so I have experience creating my own custom palettes already!

What I Wanted to Buy

This first photo shows what I would have purchased if given the chance. Oasis Glow is technically a blush for someone with a lighter skin tone than mine, but I am extremely curious how this would look as a highlighter and I want to use it for that purpose. Lucid Glow is a color I wish to get even more than Oasis Glow because there is a higher potential for me to be able to use it as a blush, something to mix with darker blushes, a blush topper, or a highlighter.
At Night is my favorite blush from Hourglass, but I only have it as a full-size single. So, getting it in a size to fit into my Ambient Edit palettes is very important to me and something I’ve been waiting years for specifically. When I get a smaller size of that blush, it will become possible to create my true “perfect” Hourglass palette, even if I need to depot it myself.
And then finally, Iridescent Coral is another blush that I’m not completely sure if I can use or not, but I’d like to find out.

This custom option would give me 3 products I don’t already own and 1 product that I wanted a duplicate of anyway. It would cost a lot more money if I had to buy other palettes in order to acquire them. If I like all 4 colors, I could keep them in this quad. If I don’t, I can depot them and put them in other palettes using magnetic sheets and metal stickers, but the packaging would be warped on the bottom if this is made of plastic. Based on videos I’ve seen, I do believe it’s plastic which tends to be much harder to depot than when Hourglass has these powders in their metal packaging.


Best of Each Category

This second palette is the best possible combination I can create for myself out of what’s available on the Hourglass website, and it’s still not perfect. Dim Light only works for me as a brightening powder under my eyes. The lightest finishing powder I can use from Hourglass is Radiant Light, which was not a custom option. Soft Light is too light for me and Transcendent Light only works for me as a bronzer because it’s too deep. At Night was of course chosen because I want it in the Ambient Edit palette size. Infinite Strobe Light looks better or worse on me depending on the time of year. I assume Beaming Strobe Light and Opal Strobe Light would be too light for me, and I already own Celestial Strobe Light, which is a little too pearly for my liking.
Solar Bronze is the darkest available bronzer option, if we don’t count Transcendent Light, but it’s the shade that fits me best from Hourglass anyway. The only deeper color Hourglass has created is Bronze Heat from the Lotus palette.

I would not purchase this second palette because I own all of these shades already, and it still would not be my perfect palette out of all the Ambient Edit powders that have existed.

My “Perfect” Custom Quad

What I’m showing above is the best selection of colors for me out of everything that Hourglass has ever made.
Eternal Light (without the larger random shimmer particles) is the best finishing powder option despite it being a little darker than my skintone, so I just use it sparingly.
For bronzer, I would stick to my favorite Solar Bronze.
I put At Night as the perfect blush, but I also really like Diffused Heat (with more of the colored marbling), Mood Flush, Mood Exposure (to tone down vibrant blushes), and Sunset Glow more than the rest.
Gilded Strobe Light is the second darkest highlighter I’ve seen from Hourglass, with Prismatic Strobe Light being the darkest.

I never reviewed the Sculpture Quad because Mood Flush was the only shade I could use, so I figured I could post a photo of how it looks here.

I noticed Diffused Heat and Prismatic Strobe Light were not part of the lineup. In general, quite a few of Hourglass’ darkest powders didn’t make the cut. I have a hunch it’s because they will make a reappearance in this year’s holiday palettes.

Since 2 of the 4 shades I would want to put in my ultimate Hourglass Edit Palette aren’t options, it doesn’t really make sense for me to order one at this point. The benefit, had they been available, would be that I wouldn’t have to depot what I currently own and rearrange them myself (sans the mini of At Night). As it stands, the first variation I came up with that had all blushes is all that would have been worth getting.

In my eyes, buying the Dusk and Sunset curated quads to get 3 of the 4 blushes I want isn’t a good option either. For starters, that would leave me with too many repeat shades and the whole point of wanting to customize palettes is to avoid owning more duplicates. The shades I’ve depotted that I didn’t want, I have put together and sold on the Mercari app a few times, but I don’t have my Z-Potter with me and I can’t use Mercari where I live either. I will not be in the US again until close to a year and a half from now, so buying a custom one so far in advance doesn’t make sense for me.

The more I think about it, the more I realize having a quad isn’t necessarily what I want. A palette with one finishing powder, one highlighter, one bronzer, and three blushes sounds like heaven! These custom and curated palettes have a beautiful, but basic design. Hourglass hooked me with their marbled palettes and Katie Scott’s animal designs. There is a possibility that if the brand continues their streak of launching limited edition holiday packaging at the end of the year, and if they make it customizable, I would want that way more! What if they release additional new shades? What if I want more than one packaging design? That happened the last two years when I had to decide between Lotus or Dragon and then Leopard or Owl (though I ended up buying both). In the same year as I’m doing a Project Pan, to end up potentially buying 1-2 quads and then 1-2 palettes (if customizing remains exclusive to the US) would feel wasteful. Especially when I barely used my Hourglass palettes this year because I set them aside to prioritize the makeup in my Project Pan.

I don’t believe Hourglass would introduce customizable quads for them to be just a limited time option. Especially not after the success of all 5 curated quads selling out. I’m also convinced that custom 6-pan palettes will be available in the future. So, there isn’t any rush for me to buy new powders now. It’s not as though I’m lacking in powder products. Waiting to see what comes during the holiday season is probably the smartest move for me.

My mother loves to say, “Every disappointment is a blessing.”
When Hourglass made the announcement, I had my mock palette ready so I would know exactly which shades to buy and which color arrangement would look most aesthetically pleasing. Being forced to wait could be that blessing in disguise.

Well, that was me trying to talk myself out of buying extra Hourglass powders! I hope this conversation was helpful to anyone else on a low-buy, living outside of the US, or even just to see my comparison swatches to help someone decide what shades they might or might not want.

Thanks for reading! I don’t think I’ll have to time to do additional bonus posts for a while, so we will return to our regular Monday-only posting schedule.

-Lili ❤

Charlotte Tilbury Soulmates Face Palette

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I could not get into the Sailor Moon anime, but I love the art and style of everything in that world! This product looks like it could be Sailor Moon merchandise, but without feeling like children’s play makeup. This compact has some weight to it, even more than the compact of the brand’s powder bronzer. Since I like Charlotte Tilbury setting powders and blushes, this was not a launch I could skip.

Charlotte’s Pillow Talk Beauty Soulmates Face Palette in Pillow Talk Flawless Peach

From what I can tell, the setting powder in this compact is no different from the permanent line. According to the website, the name for it is Light Peach, but everywhere on the packaging only refers to it by “powder” with no other name. I guess it could technically be called Flawless Peach Powder, and the blush could be called Flawless Peach Blush, but I’ll continue to refer to it as Light Peach.

I haven’t hopped on the pink setting powder trend because of how it usually turns out on someone of my skin tone and color depth, but I was intrigued by this peach option. I can sometimes get away with using the Medium powder on its own, and I’m happy to say that I think I can wear Light Peach on its own as well! It looks crazy when I first apply it, but after sweeping to blend it in, I think it looks pretty good and has a brightening effect!

Most of the time, I mix Medium and Tan together to get a more natural effect instead of brightening. I found that I’m able to do the same with Light Peach.

Per usual, this powder is mattifying without being too drying. It makes the undereyes look smoother. It helps to set my concealer in place and lock it in. I only use this powder under my eyes, so I haven’t tried it on my face, but since it brightens, I can guarantee I wouldn’t want to use this color all over. For my needs, this is great! I’ve made a small dent in my travel size of Medium, so I no longer have to consider buying a replacement when I use it up.

Just like the 2023 Mini Duo Charlotte Tilbury released that had a powder blush and highlighter, there were no names for them on the packaging, but the website referred to the blush as Rich Terracotta. This year’s blush is called Peach Blur on the website.

I really like this blush! It’s a great color and looks airbrushed on the skin. The texture for the blush actually reminds me of the setting powder, but in a richer color with a lot more pigment. That’s surprising considering they share 6 out of 15-18 of the same ingredients.

This year’s matte blush is still less pigmented than Rich Terracotta, which I consider a good thing because that one was easy to overdo. I have a lot more control with Peach Blur because of its buildable nature. One advantage to having a setting powder and blush in the same compact is the opportunity to use the setting powder to tone down the blush if I go overboard in applying it, but it’s easy to avoid, so I don’t need to do that. I guess this is more helpful for someone with a lighter skin tone than mine. The only time so far that I’ve applied the blush too heavily was when I added a second layer of Peach Blur on top of my foundation that hadn’t fully dried down yet. Even then, it was easy to buff and blend out the blush.

When it comes to longevity, I have noticed some minor fading, but there’s still enough on at the end of the day for me to be satisfied with it. This also comes off my cheeks if I take a nap, but that’s a bit more understandable!

I also have to note that I’m very much in my glowy blush era, so the fact that I’m this happy with a matte blush is impressive in itself. This is a pricey product (I got it for 20% off), but I’m very happy with it. Sometimes brands make limited edition products that are cashgrabs, and I’m glad to know Charlotte Tilbury isn’t one of them. Whether the Genshin Impact Collab falls into that category is debatable, but I don’t consider this to be a cheap product or a gimmick. The duo includes the brand’s number one best-selling product in a new shade, along with matte powder blushes that she has yet to release as a permanent item. Perhaps that time will come!

I hope this has been helpful. Thank you for reading!

-Lili ❤

Charlotte Tilbury x Genshin Impact In-Depth Collection Review

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For such an unexpected collaboration, I decided to make this bonus post! If you’re looking for a super detailed review, you’ve come to the right place!


I purchased, or one could say I fell for, the Starfell Treasure Limited Edition Kit which is the smaller of the two options on the Charlotte Tilbury website.

This kit includes:

  • The Magic Water Cream (15ml)
  • The Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray (34ml)
  • The Magic Serum Crystal Elixir (Deluxe Sample)
  • Charlotte Tilbury X Genshin Impact Eye Mask
  • Charlotte Tilbury X Genshin Impact Compact Mirror
  • Charlotte Tilbury X Genshin Impact Small Pouch
  • Genshin Impact In-Game Rewards: Primogems *160, Hero’s Wit *5, Sanctifying Unction *5, Mora *50000 (Code to redeem valid from 30th April 2025 – 30th July 2025)

I don’t play Genshin, so that code went straight to my husband. According to him, the value of the in-game rewards isn’t worth that much comparatively to the price paid for the physical items. So, I considered it more of a free gift with purchase instead of something to be factored into the retail price. The code is supposed to be sent, “within 8 days by email to ensure that your order arrives first,” though the FAQ section of the website clarifies that it could be 8-10 days. Mine landed in my indox on day 9.

I created my first Instagram Reel of the unboxing, which can be seen HERE.

DISCLOSURE: I am not an affiliate of Charlotte Tilbury nor miHoyo. I bought this with my own money and all thoughts are my own.

Please note that all photos can be clicked to see a larger version on one’s desktop!

Let’s start with the Keepsake Box! The section that folds over is blue, but my eye can detect that the tone is verging on purple, like a dark indigo. It has a soft touch coating, for a more luxurious feel, with gold lettering on top. The inner lid also has gold designs and the trademarked phrase, “Makeup Your Destiny.”

I had a hard time getting my camera to show the slight purple lean of that blue color. The next photo below shows the color better.

The inner portion of the box that houses the items is more of a maroon or bordeaux color and soft touch lamination. I’m no printing expert, so this is just to the best of my knowledge based on the differences of how they feel.

The closing flap is a thick paperboard type of material that tucks into the space between the blue and bordeaux portions on the bottom.

As far as cardboard keepsake boxes go, I think this is well made.

The first item I pulled out of the box was the “small” drawstring tasseled velvety pouch that ended up being larger than I expected. My rough estimates for the size is 23 cm high, 17-19 cm long as it gets a little wider towards the bottom, and 5 cm wide (9H x 7L x 2W inches).

The bordeaux colored inner lining is polyester with both Charlotte Tilbury and Genshin Impact logos. I don’t know the technical term for the kind of printing that’s on the outside in the gold design, but I can feel it on the fabric.

Despite its size, I still intend to use this as my dice bag for Pen-and-Paper RPG nights. I currently have three sets of dice. This thick high quality pouch is going to be so extra for that purpose…and I love it!

My old pouch vs the upgrade.

The next item is the velvety sleeping eye mask. I have a big head, so it fits a bit tight despite the strap being stretchy. This didn’t bother me while I was playing around with it in an upright position, but at night with how often I move my head around, the straps were tugging too much on the back of my head and on the sides, which pulled the mask tightly against my eyes. The pressure to my eyes was too much for me and I took it off after less than five minutes of wearing it. It’s a shame, but perhaps my sister-in-law who plays Genshin will want it. I could also potentially use this on flights since I would be in the upright position.

The underside of the mask has the same gold patterns and letters, which means I can feel that it’s scratchy when I run my fingertips over it. I was concerned that I would feel it against my eyelids and face while I wore it, but it wasn’t an issue. To be fair, I haven’t been able to wear it long enough to confirm if laying down with it while tossing and turning would pose an issue.

Unlike the pouch, this eye mask has a few flatback acrylic rhinestones embedded on it. They don’t feel like they would come off easily. I think they’re pretty secure.

The most exciting item for me in this box was the compact mirror. It’s shiny, rose gold colored, and has a cool celestial design. My husband said something about an “Astrolabos Constellation,” which I guess is what this represents.

The mirror with the “Makeup Your Destiny” phrase is the normal one. I’m not sure what level of magnification the other side is, but I’d guess it’s just double.

Parts of this feels like aluminum and parts feel plastic. I couldn’t find any specifics on the website, nor on the paper included in the box with extra information. It just has a warning to clean the compact with a soft cloth and to keep it away from moisture, especially creams. So, basically someone shouldn’t try on the Magic Water Cream and then pick up the compact without washing their hands first!

I will admit that I don’t know if I will actually put this in my purse. I used to collect compact mirrors and I always carry one around, but I also always select the lightest ones to avoid the extra weight in my purse. The heavier ones just stay in a drawer for me to admire, and this may end up being the case with this Genshin compact as well. It’s not that heavy, but heavier than what I’m currently using and at least twice as thick.

The small box has three products that are normal within the Charlotte Tilbury line. There are no special Genshin Impact themed details on the packaging or the products themselves.

The Magic Water Cream is something I have reviewed a sample of before, though I was living in a different climate.

The summarized details is that it’s a fragrance free gel-cream hybrid that fully sinks into the skin, feels lightweight and was able to keep my face hydrated all day. I loved this product, but couldn’t justify buying it at full price considering all the other moisturizers I had and loved. I ended up getting it anyway in the Volume 23 Trendmood Box last year, but that box was shipped to the US. So, I hadn’t been able to use it until a month ago.

The 50ml jar on the left in the photo above is the full-size that retails for $100 (I paid $49 for that Trendmood Box). There is also a 30ml jar for $65, which is the size anyone who buys the larger Starry Miracle Limited Edition Kit will get. The smaller jar in the photo is the one included in my box, which is 15ml for $30.

I have dry skin and this cream was perfect for me while I lived in Florida. The original Magic Cream was too thick. Now that I live in Germany, I’m not sure if the Magic Water Cream will be potent enough for me when winter rolls around. I will probably just have to pair it with a milky toner.

The tiny sample size of the Magic Serum Crystal Elixir is one I’ve used only once so far. I honestly can’t review something like this considering how long skincare usually takes to make any changes to someone’s skin. The website lists a lot of great ingredients, including some trademarked ones. I’m not a fan of the herbal smelling parfum in this, nor the extracts that have strong scents to them.

This soaks immediately into my skin. The consistency of the product reminds me of the Farmacy Honeymoon Glow AHA Resurfacing Night Serum (replaced by the Honey Glow 17% AHA + BHA Resurfacing Acid Serum), though Charlotte’s product doesn’t make my face feel as tingly/burning as Farmacy’s. These two products aren’t meant to do the same thing; I just wanted to give a texture comparison.

The second item that I was the most excited for in this box was the travel size setting spray. I wanted to try it ever since it came out, but I rarely use this kind of product, so I’m doing my best to resist buying them. It’s even more difficult now that so many brands are launching setting sprays this year. Receiving it in this box was a loophole around my lowbuy and made it okay…because Girl Math!

I have only used the setting spray over the course of two days, but I’ll share my early thoughts about it. I want to review the setting spray again after doing lengthier wear tests, but it will probably be months before that happens. If you’re interested in Charlotte Tilbury makeup, I have another review coming on Monday, so stay tuned for that!

The photo above shows the amount of foundation that transferred onto the paper towel pieces after I pressed it against different parts of my face. It was a warm-ish sunny day when I’d gone out, so I sweat a bit. On the half of my face that I used the Charlotte Tilbury setting spray on, it clearly had less transfer. Based on the website description, I couldn’t find any transfer claims other than promising this will “lock in” makeup. However, the brand says this is waterproof.
I did a test using the Rare Beauty Bouncy Blush on the back of my hand and sprayed it with the CT Spray, giving it ample time to dry. Then, I ran it under water for some time. The swatch was completely unaffected. I know the rule of thumb is to not rub one’s face if using waterproof products and just let the water slide off. I was still curious and rubbed the swatch hard while there was still water present. I was surprised to see how much of the swatch was still visible. As far as testing the waterproof claims on my actual face, the most I can say is that I spilled a little water on my chin while I was drinking and it didn’t leave any streaks. So, as far as I’m concerned, this appears to actually have waterproof capabilities, though I haven’t done intense additional tests.

This setting spray smells nostalgic to me, though I can’t remember what it reminds me of specifically. The closest I can come up with is a mojito. I think the citric acid in this reminds me of limes and this does contain alcohol. The brand describes the parfum as a “fresh floral scent,” and it is admittedly quite light and pleasant. As much as I prefer not to have fragrance in my makeup and skincare products, I’ve smelled setting sprays that were awful, so I’d rather have it smell nice over it having a potentially bad odor.
To clarify, the reason the smell is nostalgic for me is because I stopped drinking anything carbonated for at least twelve years. Bubbly drinks (even non-alcoholic ones) hurt my stomach.

The sprayer on this is quite powerful. A lot comes out at a time and pretty much douses the face. Considering this is a waterproofing product, I guess it makes sense to not come out in a gentle mist and potentially miss covering some spots.

The brand says this is a hydrating spray, which I agree with. My skin looked glowier immediately after spraying my face, and after it dries down it remains looking that way. The shine from the glycerin looks great and it definitely helped to make my makeup look smoother and less powdery. It reminds me of MAC Fix+, but with stronger setting properties. Products with film formers usually work well on my face, and it seems to be the case with this spray too. I heard complaints from people that this makes the face sticky, but that didn’t happen to me when I used it. Even after spraying it on the back of my hand to check, it still wasn’t sticky. On my second day of trying it, I sprayed prior to applying makeup as a primer and then finished off my completed makeup look by spraying it again. There was a little bit of stiffness, as if I was wearing the world’s stretchiest peel-off-mask, but that sensation eventually went away. And, it still wasn’t sticky to the touch.

And then regarding using this to dampen and intensify non-matte eyeshadows, I’ve tried this once. It works, but so does everything else I’ve used for this purpose. I would have to test it longer and with some of my most fallout prone and flakiest eyeshadows to find out if it offers better adherence.

Some things that I can try to test for in an update in the future is how this performs with more than just two different foundations. Depending on how long this takes, I can also see if there is a difference between how it performs in summer versus winter.

Mona is the Genshin Impact character that this collection is supposed to be inspired by. I think it’s less about her personality and more about her design. Charlotte Tilbury has included stars and other celestial objects on packaging since the start of her brand. Lift up the flap of any unicarton and there will be a star there. Her limited edition products often had stars imprinted on the powder surface. I don’t know if they are supposed to be orbit lines, sun rays, or something else, but there is plenty of packaging from Charlotte Tilbury that has lines on them. She does Lunar New Year Collections. Products have names like “Cosmic Rocks” and “Magic,” so it’s no surprise that she’d want to choose a character that represents astronomy, astrology, and magic. As I mentioned before, I don’t play the game, but my husband encouraged me to watch a ton of videos with him of every Genshin Character in a series of fan-made videos. So, I’ve seen all of their designs. From what I recall, Mona is the best fitting for star representation. If there is a character who is a better fit, I’d love to hear more about it in the comment section or any other thoughts about this collection.

Some of the many stars designs from the Charlotte Tilbury brand.

Regarding the logistics, I started with a US account. I couldn’t log in for some reason, so I registered a new one with the same email for a German account and it worked. I can still see my previous orders if I change my region to the US. For Germany, they have Deutsch or Englisch language options. Sometimes if I click on English, it doesn’t show me my German orders, so I have to switch to German language and then back to English again for it to load. Just wanted to point out those website hiccups. My package was delivered through the UPS shipping service and shipped out of Poland.

I wanted to have the full experience ordering from the website, so I paid a little extra to get the Large Gift Box. It’s a nice box, although it doesn’t have the soft touch coating. There was an option to choose a ribbon or a sleeve to go around it. I picked the Scorpio Sleeve (another tie to Charlotte’s love of constellations and the cosmos). I also received my two free gift with purchase samples. Shipping was free (normally under 4 Euros if the minimum purchase subtotal hasn’t been reached) and I was able to use the welcome code (Darling15) to save 15% off my order!

When it comes to deciding whether this collection is worth getting, I can say that the price of the travel setting spray and moisturizer comes to $53. Even if I hadn’t used the brand’s code, there are influencer/affiliate codes floating around the internet that will drop the price to $51. So, I got a lot of extra products that would raise the total if I had to pay for them outside of this collab.
I didn’t need the moisturizer and I could have bought the setting spray from a retailer for 20% off, but as long as I feel the Genshin items are worth a minimum of $10 each, I can easily feel like this was money fairly spent! It would have been nice to also have the type of collab where Charlotte Tilbury created limited edition makeup with color stories and special packaging for the Mona theme, but I’m happy with my purchase. You won’t catch me buying the larger kit though! That’s for someone who is an insanely dedicated fan of CT, Genshin, or both.

That’s about everything I can think of to include! Thanks for visiting my blog!

-Lili ❤

Early Launch of the Givenchy Prisme Libre Bronzer Powder and Reformulated Pressed Powder Review

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The bronzer should be available in the US by June. The pressed powder is already available worldwide.

The luxury beauty community was up in arms about Givenchy reformulating their loose setting powder because it left a sheen on the skin (which emphasized texture and wasn’t as blurring). From what I’ve heard, it sounds like the loose powders intended for fair to medium skin tones contained a lot more Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, but mine called Popeline Mimosa seemed to only have shiny particles in the darkest square, which is practically the only section of the container I use. I put tape over the lighter squares, and only have a few holes open for the orange color. It bothered me that I could essentially use only 1/4 of the product, and I prefer using pressed powders over loose ones. When I heard about the brand’s new pressed version that is supposed to be more similar to the original formulation, I was interested.

I’m not sure if the original pressed powders were ever available in the US, but the deepest shade in that line was called 06 – Flanelle Épicée and is still available via the retailer Flaconi. In the current version, the deepest is called 06 Organza Ambré and I was willing to give this powder a try considering the original bright pink corner was replaced with what I thought was a peach color. It turned out to be closer to salmon.

The brand also resolved the issue of the brush-holding flap lifting upwards and covering the mirror, because it now flips to the side.

I’ll discuss the powder more a bit later, but I’d like to first talk about the Bronzer because it’s the product I actually bought first. I enjoyed the silkiness of it and ability to customize it so much that I had hope that the pressed powder could be even more useful to me than the loose one.

DISCLOSURE: All products in this post were purchased by me with my own money. Unhighlighted links in bold blue font (Example) are normal non-affiliate links. Links marked in bold black font with a light blue background (Example) are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to get a commission if purchases are made on the website after being redirected there. The price of the product is not affected by these links, and anyone who uses them would be supporting this blog. Sorry for this interruption, but an explanation about affiliate links are required by the FTC whenever they are used.
The only affiliate links in this post are for brushes through CDJapan, not Givenchy.
And for anyone else wondering, I usually reserve non-link font colors like (Orange) for updates, (Red) for subject titles, and (Purple) for product titles.

Givenchy Prisme Libre Bronzing and Sculpting Powder in 003 Organza Bronzé

Organza Bronze is currently the darkest of the Bronzer Powders available. It works for me, but I think this really doesn’t go deep enough, and I’m hoping they will expand the range. It has been out for a few weeks already in Europe, but I heard it will come to the US by June.

The four colors are supposed to allow one to, “add tan, warmth, modeling, and brightening.”
In the top left corner is supposed to be the bronzer shade, which is basically my skin tone. I can’t use this as a bronzer unless I mix it with the darkest block. Then, it does add subtle bronzing. I’m glad this is such a blendable product that layers and builds well because I have tried other “customizable” powders in the past that formed uneven mixtures that didn’t look seamless on the skin. This product really is customizable.

In the bottom left corner is the brightening square. I have tried using this as a highlighter before, and it adds a super subtle sheen, but isn’t enough for me to replace using an actual highlighter in my routine. As a glow enhancer to turn this soft matte product into a radiant bronzer, this doesn’t do a whole lot either. It makes it less matte, but I don’t think there’s enough oomph to satisfy a true shimmer-bronzer lover. What this does is literally lighten the color of whatever mixture I try to create. So, if I go overboard on the darkest color, adding this will lighten it up, but so will the bronzer shade.

In the bottom right corner is the modeling or sculpting block. It is the darkest section of the pan and is a cool-leaning neutral shade. It works perfectly as subtle contour in the sense that it isn’t overly gray. This color choice aids in the ability for it to mix with the other shades without going muddy. This isn’t guaranteed to be the case with Mousseline Bronzée or Popeline Bronzée though.

In the top right corner is the warmth-adder. If I want my bronzer to be less subtle, then I must rely more heavily on the darker quarter. That dark powder has just enough coolness that mixing it with the lighter browns combine into a neutral shade. If I’m feeling like having a little extra warmth, I can easily add this burnt red color to the mix. However, it works quite beautifully as a blush, which I first discovered when watching Brie Moore use it that way in her YouTube video.

How I’ve been using this the most has been to contour with the darkest shade, then mix all the browns together for a subtle bronze, and finally using the red color as blush. This tailored approach is much better suited for me than swirling all four colors together. The combined color is a bit too light for me anyway.
This means that the nice and soft synthetic brush Givenchy includes in here has very little purpose for me. The shape makes it very cumbersome to try and isolate one of the four shades alone. It can be done, and I’ve used it in the darkest square to contour under my cheekbone, but I’d much rather stick to my Face 11 brush from the brand called Number Eight. The candle tapered shape is ideal for dipping into a small section, but dispersing the product in a wider area. Small cheek brushes also work, like the HSC-2 Hana Sakura Brush for those that want an even subtler application or the Chikuhodo FO-2 that will give a stronger application and still fits in each square despite being a flat top brush with a decent amount of surface area.

I think this is a great product. The powders are super refined, blendable, soft, layer well, and last all day without fading. They’re not splotchy, they’re multi-purpose (I’ve even seen someone use them as eyeshadows), and I think the black packaging with the bronze details makes it look luxe even though it’s so lightweight. Only time can tell whether I will continue to find the customization element necessary or if I will go back to using my individual makeup favorites. The one major negative for me is simply the fragrance in here. This bronzer is so heavily perfumed and even though it’s not a bad smell, it’s stronger than I want in a makeup product and I can still smell it briefly while it’s on my face. I hope the scent will dissipate within the package over time.

Givenchy Prisme Libre Pressed Powder in 06 Organza Ambré

The first thing I thought when I saw the four colors for this shade of pressed powder is how it reminded me of my MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Sunny Side that was a limited edition product first released in 2016. The photo below is from my review from 2020.

I contemplated bringing Sunny Side back to Germany with me after seeing it again in person in the US, but considering this is 9 years old, it has no functional use except for nostalgia and collecting purposes. It can remain where it is on my “retired products” shelf for things I loved but will not use on my face.

Unlike Popeline Mimosa that was too light for me to use all 4 shades together, I am able to wear the four shades combined from Organza Ambré (at least under my eyes).

The salmon color in the bottom left of the compact doesn’t look strong in swatches, but it can clash a bit with my undertone if I accidentally use too much of it. Givenchy included that color to, “correct and conceal shadows.” I played around with different combinations blended onto my arm to see which ones had the highest likelihood of suiting me. In that process, and then confirming it under my eyes, I discovered that combining the yellow in the top left with the deep caramel brown on the bottom right looked the best for brightening. According to the brand, the yellow is intended to, “correct blue tones,” while the brown, “unifies the skintone.” The combination of the yellow, brown, and a bit of that orange (reminds me of the Crayola shade Macaroni and Cheese) is semi color-correcting. However, the orange, which the brand says is supposed to, “boost the skin’s radiance,” isn’t deep enough to be successful using it on its own on top of my Givenchy concealer. Combining the orange and salmon though works. My favorite combination is simply the yellow and brown together.

I’m quite satisfied with this powder, paired with the Prisme Libre concealer, but it doesn’t do as nice of a job on top of some of my other concealers (for instance the KVD Good Apple). Also, the only difference I can see between this powder and the reformulated loose one is the lack of sheen. It looks nice and blurs a little, but it doesn’t have noticeable extra blurring or anything special enough for me to see what all the hype was about. I’m honestly not even sure if this reformulated, but fully matte, powder is as close to the original as some people have been saying it is, considering how similar it is to the mini I own.

This isn’t the kind of powder I want to put all over my face because it’s too mattifying for my dry skin. However, I did it for the sake of this review.
Even though combining the four shades works under my eyes, it’s still too light for my whole face. It doesn’t look drying on the majority of my face, but it’s unflattering in areas that are my most dry and have the most fine lines. It’s mainly around my mouth that the powder actually emphasizes texture.

It’s interesting that I like the bronzer so much, but not the powder, considering they are practically the same formula. The only notable differences is that Zinc Stearate is higher up the list for the pressed powder and Kaolin is higher on the list in the bronzer.

The reason the bronzer doesn’t look too drying is specifically due to the areas I use it, which is the perimeter of the face and cheeks. If I tried to use the bronzer all over my face, and especially around the mouth, I would probably dislike it too.

So, this continues to be a powder that I only use under my eyes to set concealer and pretty much only with the Givenchy concealer. Though I got this for 20% off, I wish my curiosity hadn’t gotten the better of me and that I skipped buying this powder entirely. I like the Guerlain Parure Gold Powder more than this! That one felt drier, but at least it didn’t look dry.

Since the bronzer and pressed powder have nearly identical ingredients, I feel validated in assuming that if I liked the bronzer formula then I should like the pressed powder too. My mistake was not taking placement into consideration.

That’s all for today! Thank you for reading. I hope you’ll join me again for next week’s post!

-Lili ❤

The Very Special Pat Mcgrath Labs Mothership XII: Petalmorphosis with 10 Eye Looks and Comparisons

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This palette is my first Pat Mcgrath purchase in the year 2025, and also the first thing I’ve bought from the brand in the past fifteen months. I usually encourage everyone to wait for a sale when it comes to expensive makeup, but once PML says something is limited edition, I don’t take chances. Prior to getting this palette, my most precious Pat Mcgrath item (and one of the most precious makeup items in my entire makeup collection) was the Divine Rose II palette in the limited edition pink chrome packaging. This limited edition lavender palette with Dame Pat Mcgrath’s signature on it is priceless to me!

For those wondering how I got a signed copy, there was no announcement from the brand ahead of time. I logged into their website prior to the palette launch time and saw that it was already available to purchase. There was a box on the product page with a check mark indicating that I was opting in for the chance to win a signed palette. Later, I noticed that box was actually edited to clarify that the first 100 people buying the Lavender case (not the permanent black version) would be getting it. I had already assumed it would come down to whoever checked out first, so I completed my purchase even though the discount code didn’t work prior to 8:00 am EST. I didn’t notice until later that my palette was purchased at the US equivalent price, but it rose 9 Euros the very next day. So, I didn’t bother contacting customer service as I had already technically gotten a deal. It was also the next day that I received an email confirming I was one of the lucky ones!

What I found appealing about this palette is the colorful nature, the inclusion of greens, and there technically being less pinks and golds (a peach, a pink-mauve, and a black-based yellow is admittedly not that far off).

Although I’m very happy to have this palette, and I’m happy that PML gave us a palette different enough for me to justify finally buying another Mothership, I do have a few critiques about the colors chosen. For instance, there are only three mattes. Technically, Lunar Nectar is one of those sequin/matte-with-glitter-specks eyeshadows that look fully matte on the eyes because the glitter gets dusted away while blending. I hate that type of eyeshadow, but I can put that feeling aside. What I have an issue with is how similar Lunar Nectar and Twilight Lilac are. At least they are distinct enough that I can tell them apart on my eyes (when used separately), but orchids and mauves being in the same color family means one of them would be good enough alone to pair with the purple-pink shimmers in this palette. I don’t see why having both was necessary.

That being said, the quality of both of these shadows are nice. They feel a touch silkier than the mattes in my older Mothership palettes, making them slightly closer feeling to the Natasha Denona mattes (but thankfully not that far, as I still prefer Pat’s to Natasha’s). Even though they’re both pigmented, I find myself having to build up more layers to get Lunar Nectar to show on my eyes to the same level as Twilight Lilac.

My second color issue is that so many of us have been begging for greens, but putting Nocturnal Bloom and Blitz Radiant Rhapsody together in the same palette is like including a duplicate despite them having different finishes. When I use Nocturnal Bloom as an eyeliner on top of Blitz Radiant Rhapsody or using it in the crease with the shimmery green on the lid, it looks like I used one single eyeshadow instead of two. There’s not enough definition and distinction between them when used together in a look. I believe that Nocturnal Bloom is the more useful of the two. It serves as the deepening and smokey element in the palette. It can be used as liner. The blendability and smoothness is on par with the other mattes, which is great considering what a disaster of a shade that deep green called Altered State was from the Mega Mthrshp Celestial Nirvana palette. This shade layers well on top of the mattes and shimmers equally. Both Blitz Radiant Rhapsody and Astral Eden Envy are a little thicker than the other shimmers in the palette and seem to have stronger adhesion, which requires a little more work to get those two shades to merge seamlessly into any other shimmer. Particularly with the former, I have to pack on additional layers and mix with my fingers to create an even and well blended gradient of one shimmer going into Blitz Radiant Rhapsody. Plus, cool greens are less loved by me than other tones of greens. So, I wouldn’t have minded having a green multichrome (like a green-purple-blue or green-yellow-gold to match the theme) or a different toned deep green as a replacement eyeshadow. Even a light spring matte green or matte chartreuse would have been welcome to me.

I find it interesting that Astral Eden Envy looks so yellow in the pan, but it looks like an antique olive on my arm, while being gold (or at least golden-olive) on my eyes. I was concerned that it would be too similar to Pat’s iconic shade Gigabyte, but thankfully they are different.

Divine Dawn fills the position of Pat’s typical Skinshow type of shadows that are most often used in the inner corner, to highlight the center of the lid, or brighten under the brown arch. Even though this kind of shade is typically on the thicker and squishier side, Divine Dawn feels even thicker and grips the skin more, making it less easy to spread as smoothly as the Skinshow shades of the past.

If eyeshadow is going to disappear on me, it’s most likely going to happen to my inner corners, so perhaps this slight change of formula is a good thing. For my own personal use though, I can’t recall ever having an issue with longevity when using PML eyeshadows including in my inner corners. So, I would have preferred for this shadow to be a little creamier.
Also, this looks like a pale cream in the pan, but it’s more of a silvery pink-purple on my eyes.

Cosmic Fantasies is quite possibly my favorite eyeshadow in this palette, which I never saw coming. It’s a beautiful reddish purple with a dark base and no chunky glitter particles. It is a smooth metallic with enough binder that I can use it as an eyeliner without worrying about fallout. It layers easily with the other shadows and is the only other deepening shade in the palette. At the same time, the shine is just enough that I can use this eyeshadow solo and it doesn’t feel like a smokey shade on my skintone, even though it pairs well with those kind of looks.
This doesn’t feel super unique because there are similar shades to this in some of my other palettes from the brand, but Cosmic Fantasies has the tone, depth, and finish to help it stand out.

Blitz Bronze Supernova is the most neutral shade in the palette, but it’s far from boring. This shadow is super sparkly with a mix of different shimmer particle sizes. In order to make it look smoother and to minimize the fallout, I apply it with a damp brush. Although it doesn’t surpass my two ultimate PML browns (Divine Dahlia and Bronzed Mink), it’s still a very pretty color and a great addition for the lighter eye looks.

While I have some misgivings about some of the shade choices, I think all of them are pretty. However, when it comes to the one that is actually the hardest for me to incorporate into my eyeshadows looks, it has been Astral Sunset Splendor. By the time I started working on the first draft of this post, I’d done 15 eye looks (some of them repeated on different days). Six of them involved using this peachy shade and three times I had to cover it up with another shadow because I didn’t like how it turned out. It pairs very well with Cosmic Fantasies, but it’s such a thin shadow that it gets overpowered by some of the more pigmented shimmers. Three failed attempts really isn’t a lot compared to the number of shades I could still try it with, plus with eyeshadows outside of the Petalmorphosis palette, so it’s possible I could like this color a lot more in other scenarios. I just typically prefer fully opaque eyeshadows, so this is currently more of an inner corner kind of shade for me when I apply it damp to control fallout. I think the shade Coral Kiss from the Nude Allure 5-pan palette is a much more interesting eyeshadow, and it’s not even an Astral!

The star of this palette that adds the most drama and color impact is Astral Iridescent Iris. This is a topper kind of shadow that looks silvery lilac in the pan, but pops to a brighter cool purple and silver on the eyes. The texture of this is closest to how the “special” shades in the Mothership palettes usually feel, which is to say on the drier side and a gritty-flaky kind of feel to them that will absolutely have fallout unless applied damp or over a glitter glue. I’ve dipped my finger into the pan at least six times, and I worry that it could be starting to hardpan. It feels like it’s starting to compact or compress itself into the pan, but so far I am not having issues picking up the product. This is something I will continue to monitor and will update if it becomes a problem.

Overall, I think the quality of this eyeshadow palette is great. I’ve had no issues with creasing or longevity. I have no patchy issues and most of the shades are super easy to blend (the worst performing ones are simply “easy” instead of “super easy”).

I know there is a huge debate going on about the “special baked formula” that the brand abandoned in Mothership X and onward. While it is likely that the process of making those four pan-less eyeshadows in that particular Italian formula might have contributed to the higher cost of the palette, I was never a fan of the texture and consistency of those eyeshadows. I loved the effect, but did not enjoy the dryness or fallout. The effect of these new Astral and Blitz formulas feel similar to the OG, but with more binders that make them easier to use. Some people, like me, prefer that. Others swear this new version isn’t as impactful and are willing to put in the extra effort to work with the OG eyeshadows we’ve been accustomed to over the course of seven years.

I think the OG lovers have some valid points in wanting there to be “special shades” in every palette, especially with price increases, but I don’t think the Motherships need to have baked shades in order to fulfill that wish. Ultra shifty multichromes are some of the most expensive pigments to make into an eyeshadow and having some in Motherships should at least satisfy the ones that want to feel their expensive palette isn’t expensive just for the packaging alone. This is coming from someone who refused to buy the beautiful Decadence palette because it contained solely metallic shades. In comparison, I think Petalmorphosis formulas are at least more expensive than Decadence. But for anyone who feels the Motherships are only worth buying if there are baked shades, then by all means don’t buy Petalmorphosis. Vote with your dollars! It’s odd to see Influencers and other Enthusiasts with the same complaint about three or more PML palettes while continuing to buy every single one. Then of course the brand won’t change course if they’re still making money off these “inferior” palettes! No judgements to anyone who wants to buy them all as a fan or collector. I’m just saying hurting a brand’s wallet has more impact than hurting their feelings. Influencers who talk about losing their love for PML while still buying all the products are sending mixed messages to their audience. In my opinion, giving a brand no attention is worse than talking badly about them. “All press is good press,” is a saying for a reason.

Two of the most interesting and contrasting viewpoints on the topic have been by the YouTube channel Alexis and Christina (I believe formerly known under the handle Lipstick Lesbians) and Mariam A also on YouTube.

I did a Pat Mcgrath Palette Ranking post last year and if I were to include Petalmorphosis among the rankings, it would probably be at #5, just barely above Nude Allure purely because this palette has additional shade options. I would also move Huetopian Dream to 7th place, just under Nude Allure as #6, because over the course of time, I missed having that palette more than the other two quints.

Pat Mcgrath Labs is one of my most loved makeup brands. I have been quite critical about certain decisions they’ve made, and therefore skipped many releases, but I haven’t given up on them just yet. I was worried when nothing interested me from them in all of 2024, but I’m hopeful this is just the start of exciting launches in 2025.

Thank you for reading. I hope this has been helpful and that you didn’t mind my unfiltered opinions!

-Lili ❤

Singe Beauty Evocative Blushes Review

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For the last several years, blush has been my #1 favorite category of makeup to purchase and wear. I have a similar taste in blushes as Angeschka Nyqvist, especially when it comes to shimmery ones, so it made sense for me to try some from her own brand. There are currently four shades in the range. I have three, but I did not buy Riveting Rhubarb under the assumption that it won’t be as flattering on my skintone as the others.

DISCLAIMER: I purchased all of these products with my own money. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

Singe Beauty Evocative Silk Blushes in Timid Tomato, Risky Raisin, and Persistent Persimmon

These blushes are pressed firmly enough to maintain the shape of that embossing, but they are loose enough to be easily picked up with any brush I own, whether they’re a delicate natural hair brush or a sturdier synthetic type. I get kickup in the pan, but it’s an acceptable amount most of the time. I got it on my clothes once from a brush that picked up a bit too much!

To the touch, these powders are soft and have a slightly silky feel to them. It’s difficult to see shimmer on the surface in normal lighting. The blush has to have light shining directly onto it to spot it easily. This makes me happy because when I say I want a shimmery blush, I don’t really wish to see large individual shimmer particles. I just want a sheen, or an ultra refined reflect to make my skin have a bit of glow to it. I’m not looking for a highlight-blush hybrid, so I’m pleased with the way these blushes are.

They are all quite pigmented. I prefer to use a medium density brush or one that is on the light side to have better control over how much I put on. It’s quite easy to get carried away and find myself saying, “slow build…gradual build…oh, gosh too much!” The blushes blend easily, especially with each other, but it still requires using a light hand. I’d rather they be pigmented over having the problem of being sheer because Timid Tomato is my favorite of these shades, but the inclusion of shimmer could have had the Nars Orgasm effect on me (that when the light hits it, the shine obscures the base color and then it looks like I just have highlighter on my cheeks instead of blush).

I have no longevity issues with this blush, as long as it’s on top of skin that is moisturized in some type of way (via skincare or foundation).

I bought the other two blushes in October 2024, but I didn’t get Persistent Persimmon until December of that same year. I kept seeing people use this blush to create a sunrise cheek type of look, which was pretty enough to make me reconsider. I knew this was too light to be a standalone color for my cheeks, but I remembered how Scott Barnes had a yellow blush in his Chic Cheek palette that could be used to add warmth to blushes if they were leaning too cool toned on someone. I’m less into matte blushes now, which is why I didn’t bother to keep that one with me, but I thought having a shimmery version could be perfect! Below are some examples of cool and/or berry blushes I don’t like as much and how Persistent Persimmon added on top turns them into a somewhat coral color that I like way more!

Besides using this shade for adding shimmer and warmth, I can partly lighten blushes that may be too dark for my liking. So, I’m happy that this turned out to be another “fixer” type of product in the same way that I use the Dior Powder No-Powder for blurring and blending or the r.e.m. beauty Interstellar Highlighter Topper to fill in the gaps of scattered effect highlighters.

I have considered the possibility that Singe’s pink blush could have the same role as Persistent Persimmon, except to cool things down, but my need for that is so rare that I don’t think it would be worth the purchase for that purpose.

As I mentioned before, these blushes look different in natural or indirect light compared to light hitting it straight on. This shade is like my version of Nars Orgasm X, but better.

Risky Raisin looks a bit close to Timid Tomato on my skin. The difference is that it’s a touch darker with some brown and is a less saturated color overall. The red tinge in Timid Tomato pops a little more.

Overall, these are nice shimmer blushes. I like them, but there are blushes in my collection that I’m crazy about. I don’t have the same level of excitement using them as I do with, for example, Dior’s Rosy Glow Blush in the shade Bronzed Glow or Benefit’s Wanderful World Blush in the shade Terra. Those two are also twice the price as the ones from Singe, so I can at least say these blushes are among the top shimmer formulas I’ve used for under $20 USD. Because of VAT, the price I paid is around 23 Euros each.

On a less important note, I’ve been spoiled by luxury packaging, but I don’t mind Singe’s cardboard packaging or the absence of a mirror. I like that these details have kept the cost down. However, I’d actually prefer if these were available as refills. I would like to keep them in one single custom magnetic palette, so I’ve considered depotting them. The only reason I haven’t is that I also like how lightweight this packaging is. All of the custom palettes currently in my possession feel heavier in their empty state than the weight of these three blushes in one hand. I still don’t have a proper makeup area (renovations are still taking place), so it’s easier for now to carry these around in their current packaging until I have a more permanent setup.

Singe Beauty F03 Brush

I’ve found Singe’s eye brushes to be useful, but not as enjoyable of an experience compared to my fude brushes. I decided they weren’t for me and assumed the face brushes would be the same. However, from one brush snob (I say this with love) to another, Tina the Fancy Face has given Singe’s face brushes a more positive review than the eye brushes. So, I assumed I would prefer them too.

This brush feels wonderful when I rub my fingers across the fibers, but it’s similar to rubbing Sokoho level goat across my cheeks. It feels nice at first, and certainly fine with the brand’s own blushes, but if I try to use a makeup product that requires additional blending time, it can irritate my cheeks a bit. My skin has admittedly gotten more sensitive with age (or perhaps I’m just so used to using ultra soft brush hair), so this won’t be a problem for everyone. I just wanted to put it out there that if you’re the type that uses mostly natural hair brushes and only loosely packed synthetic ones, you might not want to buy this brush. But I’d like to reiterate that it’s only if I have to spend a long time blending that it starts to agitate my skin.

The Singe blushes are pigmented, but I don’t have to worry about overapplying as much when it’s on my bare skin. The product looks so skin-like and I can use this specific brush in a heavy-handed way. However, when my face has a little dew to it, the application of blush with this brush can be too concentrated if I’m not careful. I have to dip the brush lightly onto the surface of the blush, tap off excess, and sweep it on first before attempting to do the full on circular buff.

Because of these two potential complications, it’s just easier for me to not reach for this brush with powder products. What it’s fantastic for are creams and liquids. The size and shape is somewhere in the middle between my holy grail Sonia G Mini Base and the Classic Base that was too big to be a multi-purpose brush for me. I have enjoyed using this brush with Glossier Cloud Paint blushes, the Chanel cream to powder (Joues Contraste Intense) blushes, the Charlotte Tilbury Unreal Skin Foundation Stick (that I use as highlighter), etc. Those are products that I pounce on and they practically blend themselves. The way this brush moves ensures I still get good color payoff without the product getting absorbed into the bristles or dispersed into too wide of an area. I will probably continue reaching for the Mini Base over this one, but the Sonia G brush is almost double the price, so perhaps the Singe F03 would be a good alternative for someone.

Because of my enjoyment of this brush, but my desire to have it in a softer hair/bristle type, I purchased the Hakuhodo G6440 from Fude Bobo’s website and it is so wonderful! It’s only for use with powders (as it’s a blue squirrel/goat mix), but I’m thrilled to have it! I got mine during Black Friday, but it was still super expensive. It might only be worth buying for people who are lovers of pom pom style of brushes.

That’s all for today! Thank you for reading and I hope this has been helpful.

-Lili ❤

Is This Redemption For Nomad Cosmetics?

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In 2020, I reviewed my first Nomad Cosmetics product: the Tokyo Harajuku Palette. It is one of the worst palettes I ever owned, which is a shame because the palette art was so cute and I tried so hard to make it work on me. It was bad enough to scare me away from purchasing anything else from the brand. However, in the last 2-3 years I’ve heard nothing but good things about the brand’s eyeshadows. Beauty Influencers and other makeup enthusiasts that I trust all seemed to like their palettes. Granted, not a single one of them ever reviewed the Tokyo palette and even the people who owned nearly all of them coincidentally were only missing that one. I always found that to be strange considering the Tokyo palette was extremely hyped up when it first came out and it was the reason I even discovered that Nomad Cosmetics existed.

Pastels are notoriously tricky to make look good on dark skin, so I was willing to accept that factor could account for the particularly bad experience. I had also heard their formula “got even better” over time. So, at some point I made up my mind to give them another try, especially since I felt bad that their only review on my blog was a negative one. The problem was that none of the color stories were of interest to me until the launches of the Haunted Europe and Royal Europe palettes. I also didn’t want to spend so much money on a palette when the potential was high that I might not like it. So, I finally caught Haunted Europe in stock during Black Friday/Cyber Week!

Before we get into the review, I just wanted to mention that this palette was delivered to me in Germany via GLS. This was my first and hopefully last time having to deal with that service. I was literally looking out the window as the delivery van passed my building and stopped somewhere else to deliver a package, then continue driving away. At the end of the work day, they updated tracking with a note that my package couldn’t be delivered because I was on vacation, instead of them just admitting they forgot to stop at my place.

I sent an email to GLS customer service. My package was delivered the next day, but they never responded to that email. I found plenty of complaints about GLS online, so this wasn’t an isolated incident. If you’re ordering something that uses them as delivery partners, just be forewarned!

Haunted Europe Palette

I was so relieved to discover that this palette is leaps and bounds better than the Tokyo palette!I’ve been able to create quite a few pretty eye looks. This has a nice mix of neutral and colorful shades, but the matte colors are a bit muted. The mattes are soft to the touch and powdery. They are all opaque and apply smoothly without being patchy, but they create a soft and hazy kind of look. The brand describes all their palettes as “intense,” including this one, which surprised me because these aren’t vibrant colors. I can’t think of a single indie brand whose eyeshadows are less saturated than these. For example, Spandau Citadel looks reddish brown in the pan, but it’s a medium pinky-orange on my eyes! Bloody Mary looks so promising in swatches, but it’s so much less impactful on my lids.

I’d like to clarify that I don’t think this is inherently a bad thing. It’s about preference and I think a palette like this is perfect for the neutral lover who wants to dive into color, but gets easily intimidated. This could also work for someone who likes to combine neutrals with colorful shades and without the overall look being too bold. Someone that likes smokier type of colors might enjoy this as well. It could also be the case that these look more intense on people with lighter skin or someone who uses different primers or bases. The ones I use with this palette are MAC Paint Pot and Lisa Eldridge’s Liquid Silk.

These mattes have a hazy effect that make them look well blended. It is easy to get a gradient look from a single shadow, but they aren’t easy to build up, nor to they layer well on top of each other. If I want real depth, I have to start with the darker shades first and work backwards from my usual order of eyeshadow application. Black Forest is the most pigmented shade in this palette and is the one that layers the best. Using that shade or the dark shimmers is the quickest way for me to deepen my looks with the least amount of effort. Grendel has the second strongest amount of pigment, but it’s not as easy to blend as Black Forest.

Houska Castle is a yellow-gold and Boogeyman is orange-gold. To keep them from feeling redundant, I think Nomad could have benefited from giving them different finishes instead of making them both smooth metallic shimmers.

The golds are fairly smooth, opaque, and vibrant. Highgate Cemetery and Merry Cemetery have bigger sparkle particles, but I can see my skin through them. I can fix that by wetting them so that they apply more compact on my lids. The Catacombs and Bloody Mary have more opacity and more obvious shimmer, but they’re not able to complete with brands like Pat Mcgrath or Natasha Denona with intensity, let alone other indie brands. Big Bad Wolf and Krampus stand out because of the multi-colored shimmer, but they aren’t duochromes and they look smoother than the previous four I mentioned. Hoia-Baciu Forest is the smoothest of the shimmers and what I prefer to use as the highlighting shade, especially in the inner corner. It pairs well with nearly all the eyeshadows in this palette. To me, the shimmers are just fine. They don’t crease on me though, so that’s a plus. I also get an acceptable amount of fallout throughout the day, as it adheres to my lids pretty well, but after that it’s impossible to remove all the shimmer particles with micellar water and a microfiber cloth alone.

Since the theme of Haunted Europe is supposed to be spooky and smokey, I assume this is why the colors are muted and that Nomad’s other palettes are more saturated. That could mean that I still have gaps in my knowledge regarding the brand’s eyeshadows, and therefore shouldn’t assume the others perform like this one.

Haunted Europe is good enough to have redeemed Nomad Cosmetics in my eyes, and I can see how people would like the quality, but this is still in the middle of the road among the palettes in my collection. There are too many aspects that aren’t a perfect fit for my makeup preferences, so this is probably where the journey ends between Nomad and myself. My curiosity has been sated.

That’s all for now. Thank you for reading!

-Lili ❤

Too Faced Pillow Balms and Kissing Jelly Gloss

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I owned and reviewed eight of the brand’s Hangover Pillow Balms prior to Too Faced dropping them from the Hangover line. They renamed them just Pillow Balms, redesigned the packaging, and revamped some shades while introducing a few new colors. Besides the two I’ll be reviewing today, I also purchased the brand’s Kissing Jelly Gloss, which I believe they released in 2023, but I didn’t buy it until late last year.

Too Faced Pillow Balms in Pink Pineapple Kiss and Hot Cocoa Kiss

I enjoy the formula of the balms, but I only brought the original clear version with me when I moved because the other shades I owned were a pale milky color that was not all that flattering on my lips, or they were sparkly with no base color. However, when I recently returned from visiting the US, I brought Vanilla Kiss and Holiday Wine back with me. Holiday Wine is the most pigmented of all that I’ve tried and Vanilla Kiss had the prettiest sparkle.

When the new ones launched, I was excited to potentially own some with more pigment. As it turned out, Pink Pineapple Kiss is still a bit light for me, but at least it doesn’t look milky, so it’s an improvement. I would consider this a neutral light-medium toned pink. It is supposed to smell like tropical fruit, but to me it smells more strongly of mango than the original Mango from the previous line (and that shade/scent was discontinued).

Cocoa Kiss from the prior line was much lighter than the new Hot Cocoa Kiss. It is a much better color on me! The brand states that this has a chocolate smell. I think this smells exactly like a Tootsie Roll! It’s very nostalgic for me, but considering how artificial Tootsie Rolls are, I can imagine that a lot of people who didn’t grow up with those candies might find the smell unpleasant. Chocolate is one of those things that a lot of people hate when it smells artificial, but then again, Too Faced gained notoriety with their Chocolate palettes and bronzers, so they have been known to produce that scent well enough. I think the scent is still an improvement from how the previous Cocoa Kiss smelled.

I don’t own Juicy Watermelon Kiss, but based on the website photos, it appears to be a richer and more vibrant version of the old Watermelon shade. Banana Kiss doesn’t seem different from Banana, but I cannot confirm. I don’t own either one.

Even though the Pillow Balms have deeper color options now, these are still lightly pigmented lippies. I don’t think it’s necessary to own more than a few unless you want a larger scent variety.

The original formula and this one seem identical to me. They still have the minty-cool sensation when first applied. There’s still a tiny bit of flavoring. These hydrate quite well and are a bit sticky because that top layer locks in the moisture.
I am relieved to say Too Faced didn’t ruin a good thing. In fact, they made a few minor improvements with the scents and colors, so this is a product I can still recommend.

Too Faced Kissing Jelly Gloss Juicy Lip Oil/Gloss Hybrid in Sour Watermelon

The scent of this is like a Watermelon Jolly Rancher, which I like. My lips get smoother quicker with this lip oil than the Pillow Balms, but it doesn’t feel as deeply nourishing as I wear it despite it containing so much sunflower seed oil that my lips love. I don’t know how well the good ingredients are actually penetrating the skin of my lips. It’s certainly moisturizing, but it isn’t long wearing. Lip oils typically lack longevity, but the hybrid ones I own from other brands (like Ami Cole) have better adherence. So, the fact that this is a little less sticky as the Pillow Balms and other hybrid lip oil/glosses explains the weaker lasting power. It grips the lips at least well enough to not give a runny or dripping sensation if this was an oilier product.

The Kissing Jelly glides smoothly across the lips, but it can feel goopy if too much is applied. The Pillow Balms can cause that white ring around the inner lips if there’s too much, but an uncomfortably wet feeling is the worst that I’ve had with the Kissing Jelly. No white ring.

One of the downsides to this product is that despite there being so many “shade” options, it looks pretty much clear on the lips. So, the color is negligible and I chose mine based on the scent I wanted and trying to avoid getting one with glitter. Otherwise, I would have gotten the Piña Colada scent. The other thing I don’t like is the packaging design, which looks a bit juvenile to me. It’s supposed to be cutesy, but I think the Pillow Balms are a better reflection of how to do cute packaging while still looking like the pricepoint that was paid. The Pillow Balms are only $3 more than the Kissing Jelly, but they also contain 1.5 more ml of product. The Pillow Balms look on brand, but the Kissing Jelly look like they could have been made by Colourpop.

Essentially, I think the Pillow Balm is better for someone like me with extreme dry lips. The Kissing Jelly is better for someone who wants a thinner product and whose lips are still dry, but at manageable levels.

That’s all for today! I hope you’ll stop by again to read more posts written by me!

-Lili ❤